Roof Leak - 2013 Honda Jazz Drivers side front door at roof liner.

[greengiant]

Hi all, it's been a while since I last posted on here!

I've still got my 2013 (63) plate Honda Jazz. Recently I've noticed some rain water on the interior, where the roof liner meets the plastic a pillar trim.

I've removed the rubber trim on the roof gutter, and it looks like the seam sealer may have failed somewhat.

Peeling back the roof liner, and having a look inside, I think I can see where the water is coming in, basically at a join between two body panels (I've highlighted the area in red).

Now I'm wondering the best way to fix this?

It should be easy enough to brush on some fresh seam sealant at the roof gutter area , however would brushing on some seam sealer on the inside work as well?  To access the seam from the outside, would need the windscreen removed! 

I have checked by squirting some water into the roof gutter, it does make it's way down the channel, and drain near the front wheel. (I imagine this is the normal drain point for the roof gutter?)

Would silicon sealant do the job? Or would I be best trying to get hold of some automotive seam sealant?


Thanks in advance!

[Jocko]

There are a ton of post on here about leaks but at the rear of the rail. Silicone sealant is no use, but there are plenty of recommended sealants.

[culzean]

There are a ton of post on here about leaks but at the rear of the rail. Silicone sealant is no use, but there are plenty of recommended sealants.

As you say, silicone sealants do not adhere to paint very well - need a polyurethane or polymer based sealer.  CT- 1 comes in range of colours and is often used by boat owners as it can be applied to wet surfaces and even underwater......

https://clubjazz.org/forum/index.php?topic=9460.msg78359#msg78359

[greengiant]

Thanks guys.  I'll try and get some CT-1 or similar, and get the seam filled.  I'll probably be just as well to check the hatch area as well!

[Jocko]

If it's leaking there, you will find water in the spare wheel well.

[greengiant]

I had a quick check after work this afternoon, with a quick peek under the boot carpet.  It seems dry in the spare wheel well.  I also found a jack as well tucked in the jack holder (A shame, as I have only a compressor and a can of foam, rather than a spare wheel...)

Anyway, Screwfix doesn't stock CT1, so I've ordered a tube of  OB1 Multi-surface sealant and adhesive for collection tomorrow. Hopefully this will seal the gap in the panels at the roof (from the inside). I'll probably need to remove the driver side sun visor and grab handle to I can pull the roof liner down a bit more for easier access.

[sparky Paul]

You'll probably need to seal the leak from the outside for it to be successful, otherwise it will just find another way in. Have a look at the thread culzean linked to about fixing the rear gutter leaks.

Just a bit of a comment, after looking at the photos. That seam sealer is very close to the windscreen, and it's possible that the leak is under the windscreen bond.

Once you scrape out the old sealer, if you find corrosion underneath, right up to the windscreen glass, you may have a problem. If you can lift the windscreen trim, you might be able to see if there is any corrosion also creeping along the top edge of the glass.

If the corrosion is under the windscreen bond and is creeping rearwards under the roof gutter sealer, you should be able to seal it, but it will most likely only be a temporary repair. The only permanent fix will be to remove the windscreen, treat the rust and refit the windscreen.

This is just speculative, as you can't really tell from the photos, but I have seen this before where a windscreen has been replaced and the fitter has left bare metal around the bead of the windscreen bond.

I hope it is just the roof gutter seam that's failed, fingers crossed.

[Jocko]

I also found a jack as well tucked in the jack holder (A shame, as I have only a compressor and a can of foam, rather than a spare wheel...)

I think you are supposed to jack the car up when you put the foam in. I may be mistaken as I have always had a spare wheel, but I have heard it mentioned elsewhere.

[embee]

I've used various products from https://www.bilthamber.com/

They do a seam sealer https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/dynax-seam?___store=default ,
but I haven't used it so can't comment from personal experience. Might be of some interest?

[sparky Paul]

Another quick point, if you do intend to use one of these polymer or polyurethane sealers inside the car, take care not to get any of it on any fabric trim - it sticks like poo to a blanket, and you won't get it off.

[culzean]

I also found a jack as well tucked in the jack holder (A shame, as I have only a compressor and a can of foam, rather than a spare wheel...)

I think you are supposed to jack the car up when you put the foam in. I may be mistaken as I have always had a spare wheel, but I have heard it mentioned elsewhere.

With most sealers it is best to jack vehicle up and spin the wheel so that puncture is at the bottom.

[culzean]

I had a quick check after work this afternoon, with a quick peek under the boot carpet.  It seems dry in the spare wheel well.  I also found a jack as well tucked in the jack holder (A shame, as I have only a compressor and a can of foam, rather than a spare wheel...)

Anyway, Screwfix doesn't stock CT1, so I've ordered a tube of  OB1 Multi-surface sealant and adhesive for collection tomorrow. Hopefully this will seal the gap in the panels at the roof (from the inside). I'll probably need to remove the driver side sun visor and grab handle to I can pull the roof liner down a bit more for easier access.

Travis Perkins ( a proper builder merchant ) stocks CT-1,  also widely available online. It has fixed things that other sealers failed to remedy.

[Jocko]

Amazon does it.