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Honda Jazz Forums => Gallery => Topic started by: Chris_Music on May 07, 2019, 02:37:08 PM

Title: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: Chris_Music on May 07, 2019, 02:37:08 PM
Hey Guys

I'd thought I'd make a separate thread for this, as it has turned out to be a pretty big and intense project.

My only real gripe with the Jazz (apart from the lack of a decent powered version), is the road noise. The 2nd Gen is much better than the 1st Gen, but it's still very noticeable.

So I decided to embark on a mission to try and fix that.

I had experimented with Dynamat sound deadening on my old Civic a decade ago.
Prices of Dynamat have risen a lot, as it's a US product. But the UK has a version called Silent Coat which is basically the same, just a lot cheaper.

I bought two boxes of the 40 sheet bulk pack, and set to work on the Jazz, stripping the interior, which was surprisingly easy to remove.

I used this service manual to help me remove the interior properly without breaking anything: http://hondafitjazz.com/manual3/index.html (http://hondafitjazz.com/manual3/index.html)

Main Interior removed apart from the dash, as I didn't want to open that can of worms!!
(https://images2.imgbox.com/f2/eb/BwEkKHnc_o.jpg)

End of Day 1. Got the bulk of the sheets down:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/04/bb/KCfnVofF_o.jpg)

End of Day 2. All the gaps and fiddly bits done, and main interior complete:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/c6/62/AGZcDBr2_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/8c/8c/27Hn9lWC_o.jpg)

I will update this thread as I go along! So watch the space for more progress, and the all important final results!
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: 123Drive! on May 07, 2019, 09:31:32 PM
That's amazing! I wished I could do this myself or that you live next door and I pay you to do it, lol! Hope it's all fun and most of all, keep the car a but quiet.
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: Faithfull on May 09, 2019, 09:31:23 AM
Looks great and certainly something i had in my mind to do to my GD as i find the road noise quite loud.

Can i ask where did you source the Silent Coat?
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: Chris_Music on May 09, 2019, 12:17:48 PM
That's amazing! I wished I could do this myself or that you live next door and I pay you to do it, lol! Hope it's all fun and most of all, keep the car a but quiet.

Haha thanks, it's not actually that difficult to do, it's just very time consuming that's all!
You just need the space, a trim removal tool set, wrench set for bolts and a sound proofing roller tool, a pair of gloves, and you're good to go.

Looks great and certainly something i had in my mind to do to my GD as i find the road noise quite loud.

Can i ask where did you source the Silent Coat?

I bought mine from Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004WCU37W

In hindsight I probably went over kill with the silent coat. I wish I had done more research, as I probably didn't need to coat absolutely everything. I did it because a lot of the pictures I saw (including the ones on silent coats website and accompanying instructions) showed absolutely everything covered. But from some of the reading I've been doing, you only need to cover 50-75% of the panels. But it does say for best results, 100% coverage is recommended, but i think it's the law of diminishing returns, 100% coverage won't make that much difference compared to 75% coverage.

What I should've done was 50% coverage of the silent coat, then 100% coverage of closed cell foam, then a layer of Mass Loaded Vinyl. But i guess we live and learn :).
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: Chris_Music on May 09, 2019, 02:27:50 PM
Sound Deadening Part 2: Car Door Speaker Upgrade

I thought this was a good time to upgrade the standard speakers. I didn't want to go too crazy, as theres no point in running anything too powerful if I'm still using the stock headunit. And I didn't want to spend money on a new headunit, amps and sub. So I got two pairs of Alpine SXE-1725S speakers, as recommended in this build: http://gafferlicious.com/jazz.html (http://gafferlicious.com/jazz.html), cost me £55 for the pair from DynamicSounds.

(https://images2.imgbox.com/6f/63/tnbLvLCK_o.jpg)

I did a lot of experimenting with the speaker mounts to get them to work with the new speakers and fit the door card.
The guide above said to trim the Alpine speakers rather than the modify the stock speakers. But I felt that I would rather cut the stock speakers up than my brand new ones! Especially if I decided later on down the line that I wanted to go all out and get a better sound system, as I could at least sell them if I hadn't cut into them!

So I ripped out the original speaker cone, and to make it fit properly, i removed the foam and sawed off the plastic ring, so I could screw the new speaker into the plastic:

(https://images2.imgbox.com/a0/d8/wz44QYBZ_o.jpg)

I then wired the original Honda plug to the speakers, to retain the use of original factory plugs:

(https://images2.imgbox.com/ed/04/pIgxWhv3_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/81/60/00eak7Y2_o.jpg)

I then quickly realised the door card wouldn't fit over the speakers with the metal screw spacers, so I had to come up with a different solution.

For the next two speakers, I snapped off the plastic ring, rather than using a saw, and I retained the original foam ring, and cut spaces for the screws, and I used a metal file to slightly shorten the screws, so they didn't poke out the other side.

(https://images2.imgbox.com/fb/27/A2iX6MV7_o.jpg)(https://images2.imgbox.com/59/9f/bHMQj414_o.jpg)

As for the two I had already cut and thrown the original foam, I used some adhesive foam strip I had left over from my spoiler install, and I used it instead to make the spacer:

(https://images2.imgbox.com/ba/2c/UPSPQnSe_o.jpg)

It doesn't look pretty, but it does the job!!

They sound much nicer than the stock speakers, but they could still be better! But I'm happy with them for now. I generally spend most of my time listening to audio books in the car, so for the times I do actually listen to music, these speakers will do!
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: Chris_Music on May 09, 2019, 03:13:48 PM
Sound Deadening Part 3: The Car Doors

After doing the main interior, I found myself not having enough Silent Coat left to do the doors and roof. So I had to order another bulk pack of 40 sheets.

To complement the dampening sheets, ordered 24 sheets of 10mm Closed Cell Foam for the second layer of sound deadening. Though I later found out it works out much cheaper to order them in big rolls rather than individual sheets.

(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/5dMAAOSwmtJXYMS4/s-l1600.jpg)

Getting the door cards off is fairly simple process, but working inside the doors wasn't!

It took me about 4-5 hours per door, so I spread them out over a few days, doing a door a day:

I started by doing the rear doors first, then did the front doors. So if I made any mistakes, at least they would be on the rears, and I would learn from them when it came to do the front doors.

Outer layer of Silent Coat on first
(https://images2.imgbox.com/5f/33/OhSLG9JR_o.jpg)
Followed by the layer of Closed Cell Foam
(https://images2.imgbox.com/77/be/avCZ2h25_o.jpg)
Then the inner layer of Silent Coat, covering any open gaps or holes (I circled all the holes I needed to keep with permanent marker to make it easier)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/b4/b3/YKRu4bwU_o.jpg)
Then some Silent Coat and Closed Cell Foam applied to the door card for the final layer of Silence.

In a lot of the guides I've seen, it has said to replace the moisture barrier membrane with just using the sound dampening material, but I decided to keep it for two reasons. 1 it's a pain to clean that stuff off, and it's not causing any harm just leaving it there, and 2 if a window got broken, any company that replaces it, will have to cut the and remove the silent coat to get inside, and they mighty not put it back the same way, if at all, so by keeping the membrane, I know I won't be getting any leaks.
(https://images2.imgbox.com/06/37/7rbnsi82_o.jpg)

I then did the Rear Right door next:

(https://images2.imgbox.com/b9/89/8u2P1axy_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/19/ee/1s3lKzSQ_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/18/48/TComAVK2_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/a3/0f/5AHRng3d_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/f7/f2/6dyukGpe_o.jpg)


The Front doors were a little trickier, as there was this box in the door card, which I believe is for added strength, but I managed to work around it.

(https://images2.imgbox.com/c4/30/y4v9TXq9_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/7d/46/LxV2bYJi_o.jpg)

Front Right Door:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/c5/89/wT0GQCKg_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/e9/59/RwGwIO7r_o.jpg)
I used paper to make a template that would fit the hole exactly
(https://images2.imgbox.com/fc/a3/jZqHszTu_o.jpg)
Door Card Before:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/93/07/7Bv4VD7F_o.jpg)
Door Card After:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/9a/20/LAK8Twfw_o.jpg)

Though I did have to remove the big bit of foam in the lower part, as the door card wouldn't fit back with it on, so I used Silent coat instead.

I used the stock white sound deadening from the door card to fill the hollow boxes in the door cards, to stop any resonating, which worked a trick!


Front Left Door:

(https://images2.imgbox.com/46/2d/hxZSWuCE_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/e1/42/EaaCkXfQ_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/fb/88/66YKPHa4_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/43/34/kEKAlMON_o.jpg)
Didn't make the same mistake with the foam on this door card:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/2a/4a/SeWooApl_o.jpg)


The doors made a really big difference to the sound in the car, and the audio quality was much better as well!

More updates to follow soon :D!
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: guest7494 on May 09, 2019, 05:38:46 PM
Wow what a project, rather you than me Gunga Din as they say.
But It must greatly improve the acoustics etc well done that man i am impressed.
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: smilertoo on May 15, 2019, 12:37:04 AM
I did the inside of my front doors and the spare wheel well with it last year, works great but its very heavy, doing the whole interior like that would be like adding a persons weight to the car.
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: culzean on May 15, 2019, 09:16:17 AM
I did the inside of my front doors and the spare wheel well with it last year, works great but its very heavy, doing the whole interior like that would be like adding a persons weight to the car.

Now you know why car makers do not fit any more padding than they have to, it affects car weight and hence performance and MPG. You also have to look at how the padding behaves in case if fire, does it give off toxic fumes etc.
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: Chris_Music on May 15, 2019, 09:57:29 AM
Wow what a project, rather you than me Gunga Din as they say.
But It must greatly improve the acoustics etc well done that man i am impressed.

Thanks :), yes it really does make a difference! And the bass feels much better with no rattles.

I did the inside of my front doors and the spare wheel well with it last year, works great but its very heavy, doing the whole interior like that would be like adding a persons weight to the car.

Yes, it's about 45kg of extra weight for the Silent coat panels.

Now you know why car makers do not fit any more padding than they have to, it affects car weight and hence performance and MPG. You also have to look at how the padding behaves in case if fire, does it give off toxic fumes etc.

It says the foam is flame retardant, I don't know how the Silent Coat would behave in a fire, but I think it would be fine.

Before fitting the Silent Coat, I put the two unopened boxes of the stuff in the boot and drove around with them in for 2 weeks to see if it made any difference to the power and MPG figures (this was 30kg worth). It made no noticeable difference to me.
But now I have all 45kg in, I can say I do notice a very slight difference to the power of the car, it is ever so slightly slower (this could be placebo though), but I haven't really noticed much of a difference in MPG though. Weather (temperature) and driving style still have a much bigger impact!
I have noticed something that I wasn't quite expecting, the car handles a bit better. I don't know if its because the weight is distributed a bit better, but it was quite unexpected.

I don't really want to add any more weight to the car though. I could go down the Mass Loaded Vinyl route for the most silent ride, but that would be adding another 20kg+, and I think I would probably start noticing a difference with a total of 65kg of extra weight!
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: Chris_Music on May 15, 2019, 11:12:41 AM
Sound Deadening Part 4: Firewall and Front Fenders

So I decided to go a bit further with the sound deadening and try and target the harder to get to areas I felt were letting in noise.

Those being behind the engine (firewall) letting in engine noise, and behind the front fenders letting in road noise.

Getting to the firewall wasn't too hard to do, I just followed the guide on how to remove the cowl cover, it was reasonably easy. I still feel sorry for mechanics who have to work on the engine bay though!

Cover removed:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/ea/2c/G3LwAOOp_o.jpg)

The removed parts which I will be giving a good clean before putting back!
(https://images2.imgbox.com/55/b4/Ctyji4T8_o.jpg)

The inner metal where I will be applying the sound deadening:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/45/2a/R9sgWxS9_o.jpg)

First stage with the Silent Coat:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/5e/64/xYtzccYs_o.jpg)

Second stage with the 10mm Closed Cell Foam:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/ef/a8/feIwYO7B_o.jpg)

This actually made a noticeable improvement in reducing engine noise, but I feel for best results, I'd need to put it behind the dashboard, which I really don't want to have to do. But I might look into it and see if theres any easy way to do it by removing as little as possible. As no amount of quiet is worth the hassle of removing the dash!!

Next was behind the fenders, which was a much bigger task than I was expecting.
To get behind the fenders I had to remove the Front bumper, headlights, side skirts, part of the wheel well plastic, the plastic cover next to the tiny front window and part of the cowl cover. And I couldn't actually remove the fender completely, as the final bolt at the bottom was actually sealed on under all the underseal Honda put on from the factory, and I wasn't going to disturb that, so I had to do it with the fender still hanging on.

It was such a nightmare to do, and to be honest, only made a very slight difference to the road noise, so I kinda regret it, and wish I had put it inside the actual wheel well behind the plastic cover instead (something I will be doing at some point).

First stage with the Silent Coat:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/0d/00/8RCfpOLR_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/c6/2a/79qKuLbk_o.jpg)

Second stage with the 10mm Closed Cell Foam:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/a9/35/n3RqzJpK_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/56/8c/y3seEEI3_o.jpg)


Next stage is the roof, then putting the closed cell foam in the main interior.
Then I will reassess the interior noise and take it from there.
I do notice noise coming though the door seals, so I'm going to look into how to improve that as well.
I feel like I'm trying to find a leak in a boat, and when I plug one hole, I notice another  ::)
But hopefully others can learn from my trial and error!
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: springswood on May 16, 2019, 09:15:53 AM
Have to say I'm impressed with the time and effort you're putting into this. Not just on the car but sharing the results here. Thanks.

Very interested to see what a difference the roof makes. It's a big resonator (sounding board) so could make quite a difference. It did cross my mind whether the handling change could be because the weight you added (half mine!) was low down. Obviously not so with the roof. I think there's an argument for only using a few random patches of the heavy stuff - it would spread the resonant frequencies and so reduce booming - and close cell the lot to dissipate energy. Might give some thermal insulation too. This the first proper warm weather since I got my Jazz and it does have a lot of solar gain.
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: Chris_Music on May 19, 2019, 05:03:03 PM
Have to say I'm impressed with the time and effort you're putting into this. Not just on the car but sharing the results here. Thanks.

Very interested to see what a difference the roof makes. It's a big resonator (sounding board) so could make quite a difference. It did cross my mind whether the handling change could be because the weight you added (half mine!) was low down. Obviously not so with the roof. I think there's an argument for only using a few random patches of the heavy stuff - it would spread the resonant frequencies and so reduce booming - and close cell the lot to dissipate energy. Might give some thermal insulation too. This the first proper warm weather since I got my Jazz and it does have a lot of solar gain.

Thanks springwood. I wanted to share it on here for others to get ideas for their build, and to hear what works and what doesn't etc..

The roof did make a big difference, sort of. Doing the roof cut basically all of the sound coming from above, which felt really unnerving at first, as it was so quiet from above. But there's still sound coming from all other directions. I think at some point I'm going to have to say, I can't get it Rolls Royce quiet!
I think a lot of the sound is coming from the windows, which I can't really do anything about.
But I have a few tricks up my sleeve I want to try!

I have also noticed the car's stance is slightly lower, so the added weight done the job of lowering springs which is nice!

What did you do to your Jazz, sound deadening wise? I couldn't find anything in your posts.
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: Chris_Music on May 19, 2019, 05:54:58 PM
Sound Deadening Part 5: The Roof and Boot Lid

So the next big job was the roof (which turned out to be the easiest part to apply the sound deadening to).

In the service manual it says in order to remove the roof liner, you have to remove all the rear plastic trim, side trim, as well as the grab handles, sun visors and ceiling lights.

But seeing as it's fabric basically, I was convinced I could remove it by only doing the grab handles, visors and ceiling lights and jut pull the fabric over the plastics to actually remove it, saving me having to remove all the plastic panels again.

And it worked:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/8f/26/nTqg7yTu_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/28/c5/b3ERmhdu_o.jpg)

The roof was really easy to apply the Silent coat panels to, as it was basically one long flat panel:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/1a/a4/zpiKpip1_o.jpg)

I drove around like this for a few days until the closed cell foam sheets I had ordered arrived, and I hadn't realised just how much sound the roof liner on it's own actually removed.

10mm Closed Cell foam sheets arrived:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/42/1a/kLuh52he_o.jpg)

It actually worked out a lot more cost effective to order them in 1mx2m rolls. I ended up ordering 3 of them in total, which only cost me £36.

It was quite hard to work with them in large sheets compared to the smaller 50x30cm sheets I was ordering before. But I managed to get there in the end:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/16/b2/NYsoxbVo_o.jpg)

Putting the roof liner in was a lot harder than I was expecting.
Getting it off without removing the plastic panels was fairly easy, but getting it on was not.
I did end up slightly damaging part of the roof as I tried to bend it in to place:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/32/be/7wgKNliJ_o.jpg)

But apart from that, there's not really any other damage.

The only noticeable area where the liner doesn't fit quite right because of the foam underneath is around the main interior light, where there is some noticeable stretching:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/cd/f1/xGZ0R6ls_o.jpg)

I did notice quite a big difference after doing the roof, but it only seemed to make all the places noise was getting through more noticeable. But overall the car is a lot quieter.


Next to do was the Boot lid.

It was easier to work on from the inside with the boot closed:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/60/7a/CEAkYsVN_o.jpg)

The Silent Coat added quite a bit of weight to the boot lid, and made the boot a lot harder to open. Luckily Honda installs a metal weight to the lid so it doesn't fly up too quickly, so I just removed that metal weight and it was basically back to normal again!

Next was the 10mm Closed Cell Foam
(https://images2.imgbox.com/02/47/4Eme0hbc_o.jpg)

And then the foam installed to the plastic cover:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/f8/72/TXEZl5Nq_o.jpg)


One small little detail that I really noticed and had to fix, was that the parcel shelf rattles when you go over bumpy surfaces, and I never really noticed it before until I made the car quieter, and now it drives me nuts, so I had to fix it!

I applied some silent coat to the areas causing the rattling, and added some closed cell foam to silence any rattling coming from the parcel shelf touching the rear plastic:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/76/3a/rkuDIVFo_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/bb/e2/RM2mQRYf_o.jpg)

Slightly OCD I know, but it really stood out after the car became quieter and now it's rattle free!


Next stage is going to be doing the front inner wheel arches from underneath. Which means removing the front wheels and the wheel arch plastic trim. As I still get a lot of road noise front the front wheel arches. I currently have Bridgestone Turanza ER370's on it, which came from the factory. They are rated at 68db, which seems the lowest rating I can find for tyres for the car, so I don't know if changing them for some Yokohama BluEarth ES32's (which are also rated at 68db) would make any difference to the road noise from the tyres or not.

And I'm going to try and remove the road noise caused by the door seals.

I did notice quite a difference by simply removing the door seals and re fitting them properly with a rubber mallet.
But I saw on another forum someone used some PVC rubber piping and ran it through the standard door seal to create a better seal when the door closes, and they added some extra adhesive rubber door seals to each door to get the gaps the standard ones don't get. So I've ordered some PVC rubber piping and some adhesive door seals and I will take it from there.

So watch the space for those!
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: smilertoo on May 20, 2019, 08:19:27 PM
You're going to end up with a lovely quiet Jazz that does 1mpg.
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: springswood on May 25, 2019, 10:29:21 AM
So far I've only done the rubber washers on the front suspension. Bit of a reluctant DIYer.
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: Chris_Music on May 29, 2019, 10:52:37 AM
You're going to end up with a lovely quiet Jazz that does 1mpg.

This is not too far from the truth :P
Though I haven't really noticed the MPG taking much of a hit. Though the car doesn't feel as powerful as it did before I installed it, which is a shame!

So far I've only done the rubber washers on the front suspension. Bit of a reluctant DIYer.

That's quite an impressive first step for a reluctant DIYer!!
I might take a look at that mod. Did you notice much of a difference?
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: Jocko on May 29, 2019, 11:27:27 AM
Chris. What sound system do you have in the car?
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: springswood on May 29, 2019, 02:52:32 PM
Thanks. Though as I posted elsewhere it was a lot easier to do than it seems. Undo two bolts, cut out some rubber, do the bolts up, not as fiddly as removing door cards etc..
It did help a lot with reducing road surface noise, especially on motorways and the like. Presumably reducing how much vibration is transmitted through the suspension and into the body. I have since found my anti roll drop links needed replacing, which reduced that noise even more. In an experimental mood I'm tempted to undo the mod, just to see what difference it makes now. On the other hand if it ain't broke...
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: Chris_Music on June 02, 2019, 12:28:20 PM
Chris. What sound system do you have in the car?

I have just the stock head unit with some Alpine SXE-1725S speakers in the 4 doors.
Speakers make a decent difference, but I don't know if it's entirely the speakers, as I did the sound insulation at the same time as the speaker upgrade, so it's probably a bit of both. But worth the upgrade at a price of £55 for 4 speakers.

Thanks. Though as I posted elsewhere it was a lot easier to do than it seems. Undo two bolts, cut out some rubber, do the bolts up, not as fiddly as removing door cards etc..
It did help a lot with reducing road surface noise, especially on motorways and the like. Presumably reducing how much vibration is transmitted through the suspension and into the body. I have since found my anti roll drop links needed replacing, which reduced that noise even more. In an experimental mood I'm tempted to undo the mod, just to see what difference it makes now. On the other hand if it ain't broke...

Awesome, did you have to jack the car up to take the weight off the suspension before undoing the bolts, or could you just undo them as they were?

I'd be interested to hear what you find if you do decide to remove the rubber.
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: springswood on June 02, 2019, 12:41:47 PM
No jacking required, it's just the nuts  at the top inside the bonnet.

I'll do the experiment and let you know.
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: Chris_Music on June 12, 2019, 12:26:14 PM
Sound Deadening Part 6: Main Interior Closed Cell Foam and Mass Loaded Vinyl

So It's been nearly a month since my last update, and most of that has been me doing research and getting all the materials needed for the next stage of sound proofing.

This stage has been one of the most painstaking ones, not just because I had to remove the whole interior again (twice), but also because of getting things to fit back afterwards.

This build really isn't for the faint hearted, and part of me is regretting even starting this build! But I've come this far, and it's all about learning and trying new things.

So first step was to completely remove the interior (again), and cover the floor/boot in Closed Cell Foam.

I wanted to try and get as close to 100% coverage as possible.

So I removed the hand brake and placed a sheet underneath and cut out the holes for the screws, paying special attention that the main handbrake surround was still touching bare metal (for the grounding):
(https://images2.imgbox.com/11/4f/WC8ocSKr_o.jpg)

I was hoping to fit the Closed Cell Foam and the Mass Loaded Vinyl both in one day, but as per usual, I underestimated how long things take! So I managed to get all the Closed Cell Foam done in a day, and had to put the interior back in (just the Carpet, centre console and seats), as I had work the next day and needed to drive the car:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/5e/7e/wSIddlsD_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/77/bb/8RkQ8eBU_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/ae/79/gf3AAl6c_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/a0/db/UN8IKU6o_o.jpg)

I used Gorilla Tape to tape up the gaps in the CCF.

So fitting the MLV took a total of 1 and a half days to do. I did the main interior on Saturday, and finished the boot area yesterday. This was such a pain in the arse, and made me want to give up the whole project because of how annoying the whole process was. None the less, I managed to get it done.

I used a sheet of Dodo Barrier MLV 1.25m x 2.05m for the main interior, and I purchased a 5m x 1m sheet of slightly thinner MLV from Car Insulation UK to do the rest of the interior (and possibly other areas depending on how much was left over). Total weight was about 26kg

I wanted to cover as much as possible, as MLV works best with total coverage, and I noticed that there was a nice big gap where sound could come in under the gear linkage. So I followed the service manual very carefully and removed the gear linkage:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/f6/56/kR6Qf92S_o.jpg)

Then applied some Closed Cell Foam:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/f2/e2/PwpNWVgp_o.jpg)

And finally a layer of MLV, and fitted everything back:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/ea/76/zpLhRWWH_o.jpg)

Next step was to do the same with the Hand Brake. I wanted to make sure everything was easy to access if it needed to be adjusted in the future:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/62/48/l6WUrks4_o.jpg)

I wanted to put sound proofing over the cover for the fuel pump, as sound could get through that way, but I didnt want to cover it with CCF then MLV and for it to then be hard to access when the eventual time comes to replace the fuel pump/fuel filter. So I cut out a square of CCF and a square of MLV to cover it, and then stuck the CCF to the MLV, and then placed it on top, so when the fuel pump/fuel filter eventually needs replacing, the sound proofing can be easily removed for access:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/78/6d/tWeFlUT0_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/e3/4f/sQEzikQb_o.jpg)

The MLV was a nightmare to fit, as it doesn't stretch, and isn't self adhesive. So I had to make lots of cuts to get it to wrap around the contours of the interior:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/ce/05/cAHt3OXE_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/04/5a/CFVcNNdY_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/75/5e/rzmCMroA_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/6d/69/iR1YGSa2_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/9c/c1/xxIpZTv2_o.jpg)

I tried to get the MLV as high up the firewall as possible, but it was a nightmare to work with, had to settle at this height:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/ec/35/398zDKAK_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/27/dc/7MXZkQ7j_o.jpg)

After running out of the Dodo MLV, I switched to the other MLV, which was so much easier to work with, due to being thinner. Did the rear seat area first, then put the interior back in:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/3a/74/NWBdy1oq_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/5a/54/IqWczwUo_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/4c/88/oGTypHdg_o.jpg)

There was a noticeable gap on the air ducts, so I taped them up just to be safe:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/ac/3e/mLXLeV3z_o.jpg)

I fitted the side plastics first, and I'm glad I did, as they wouldn't go back at all, I ended up having to lift up the carpet and remove a large strip of the CCF to have enough room for the plastics to fit back. I wish I had used a thinner CCF, something like 5mm or 3mm to do the interior in hindsight:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/c3/df/JiKVWo2a_o.jpg)

After removing some of the CCF, the plastics did eventually fit back on, but there are still some noticeable gaps that I will just have to live with. They aren't too bad, but they are just annoying because everything doesn't look flush and perfect:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/72/6b/DtAaVFnT_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/25/8d/RKpT95R7_o.jpg)

Side plastics and centre console all fitted in. Centre console was difficult to fit back in, but I got there:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/4f/81/hNy1k9Oh_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/30/a7/s3UgvxzP_o.jpg)

Next was the boot area. I may have rushed this area a bit, as I was pretty annoyed by this point and just wanted it over with, so I may go back and tidy it up a bit at a later date, but it seems to fit ok for now:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/51/fb/XwB8RNkD_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/3f/82/ctIovvE5_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/2c/38/bTVXOBhV_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/79/b4/VcglZ0zP_o.jpg)

I used all the off cuts of MLV and some of the stock Honda sound insulation that I had removed from the Door cards and rear plastics to stuff the void gaps above the rear wheel well:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/69/d8/niHTAluY_o.jpg)


So at present everything fits back in "ok".

I am having an issue with the rear seats at the moment.
I couldnt fit the base plate that the rear seats lock into on the floor, so I had to completely remove all the sound deadening around that for it to sit flush again. But now the rear seats don't lock into place when you put the seat part down (in normal position). I think this is due to the carpet being slightly raised from the CCF and MLV underneath.
I don't know if this is an MOT fail or not, but my MOT is due in less than a month, so I don't want to risk it, and I'd feel safer in the knowledge that it locks down like it is suppose to, so I'm going to investigate this issue tomorrow and see if I can fix it.


Initial thoughts after installing the CCF and MLV in the interior:

So, driving it for the first time, I noticed when the car is stationary and driving at very low speeds (up to 10mph), the car is near silent, like luxury car silent. But then the moment you get above 10mph, then the road noise just comes straight through. It is slightly more muffled, but still really noticeably loud.

I put this down to the tyres. It has Bridgestone Turanza ER370 tyres on it, and they are the standard tyres it came with from the factory. The front ones are nearing their limit, so I would imagine they have gotten louder over time, and are at their loudest now they are nearing the end of their life. I am looking at replacing them with some Yokohama BluEarth ES32's, which seem like a good all round tyre, and have a noise rating of 68db. But I'm not going to do that until the tyres actually need replacing.

There is still a lot of engine noise and I have a few tricks up my sleeve that I'm going to try (Mostly a complete bonnet liner (20mm insulation) and putting some MLV on the fire wall under the cowl), but I'm not going to get my hopes up. We shall see.

I also notice that now I have basically eliminated all the places where noise can come through, there is noticeable noise coming through the windows (like when other cars drive past). This is something I think I'm just going to have to accept I cannot fix (bar thicker glass).

I am also going to go down the door seal route, and see if that makes a difference.

I think when I'm done, I'm going to go down to my local Honda Dealer and ask to test drive another Jazz Si so I can actually see the difference for myself. As I have done all this gradually, so I'm not going to notice that huge difference I would have if I had done it all at once.

I did get the chance to drive my Landlady's New(ish) Mini Cooper not long ago, and one of the things I noticed straight away (apart from how poor the visibility was), was how loud the interior was, so if that's anything to go by, the sound deadening seems to have worked well.

More Updates to follow soon, and I will conclude this thread with all my research, products purchased, and the Do's and Don't's that I have learned along the way, so please bare with me.

Thanks :)
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: SuperCNJ on June 27, 2019, 04:45:24 PM
Just out of interest, of all the sound deadening that you have done, what would you say made the most difference?

I don't think I would have the inclination or ability to do as much as you have. But I could do a few bits if it makes a noticeable difference.
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: Chris_Music on June 29, 2019, 09:05:47 AM
Just out of interest, of all the sound deadening that you have done, what would you say made the most difference?

I don't think I would have the inclination or ability to do as much as you have. But I could do a few bits if it makes a noticeable difference.

Hmmm, this is a tough question to answer, As i did everything in small stages.

But if I'm honest, the thing that made the most difference was the layer of Mass Loaded Vinyl on the interior floor. It's probably not what you wanted to hear, but that definitely made the most difference. But that was coupled with a layer of CLD (Constrained-layer damping) Tiles, with Closed Cell foam in between.

I'd also say doing the doors made a noticeable difference as well. So did the roof.

I haven't tried the rubber ring on the front suspension yet: http://www.hondafitjazz.com/ring.html (http://www.hondafitjazz.com/ring.html), but this is something I will be doing soon that's meant to be easy and make a noticeable difference.

I also installed 20mm thick hood insulation, which did make a noticeable difference to engine noise.
As well as installing insulation behind the fire wall.

Probably the easiest thing to do to make your car quiet is tyres, Like Yokohama BluEarth or Continental Tyres.

Any other questions feel free to ask :)!
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: Chris_Music on June 29, 2019, 09:48:34 AM
Sound Deadening Part 7: Under Bonnet insulation

After reading on an American Honda Fit forum about a member getting noticeably quieter engine noise from installing a dynamat hoodliner, I looked into an equivalent product to buy in the UK. The hoodliner is basically 20mm thick Closed Cell Foam with a reflective surface for heat resistance.

So I bought some 1x1m 20mm thick Thermal Acoustic Foam Insulation from carinsulation.co.uk for £22.

My plan was to cover the entire underside of the bonnet.
I had some large sheets of white paper which I used for photo studio background, so I used that to make an outline of the bonnet to make a template:

(https://images2.imgbox.com/8e/21/sBnh86Fp_o.jpg)

I then cut that out and used it underneath to draw out the final template.

Something I didn't take into account was the closing of the bonnet, and the gap at the front for air flow. So I ended up having to make a much smaller template than I originally planned:

(https://images2.imgbox.com/5a/a1/Sc71Op9k_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/05/64/TIlGrdbw_o.jpg)

I cut out the template and drew around it on the foam sheet:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/28/aa/KjzKWFWJ_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/d7/6b/1Si2URbF_o.jpg)

I decided not to keep the holes, as I didnt think the clips would be able to fit with the 20mm foam anyway:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/a5/11/YO2xHONB_o.jpg)

I ended up having to trim a bit more off in order to it to fit better under the bonnet:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/68/1c/0EtATexD_o.jpg)

To clean up the rough foam edges, I used some aluminium tape, which I thought made it look more professional and factory fitted, rather than aftermarket:

(https://images2.imgbox.com/f2/77/XSf0b5HI_o.jpg)

And finally to the install. I decided to leave the small amount of sound insulation I had originally put there:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/57/aa/vieIWRIS_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/d1/6d/Htyw9TgV_o.jpg)

I wanted to keep the factory sound insulation, as I felt like the combination of the two made much more of a difference:
(https://images2.imgbox.com/59/e3/mLs5ITjQ_o.jpg)
I used double sided foam tape to secure the bottom two clips, which seems to have done the job nicely.

I had to ditch the air duct that was on the other side, as it was hard to get it to fit back with the new sound deadening, but I don't really know exactly how much difference that was really making, I haven't noticed any difference not having it on.


The under bonnet sound deadening definitely made a noticeable difference to the engine noise, and it is much quieter.
As I have so much 20mm foam left, I'm going to try and fit the rest behind the engine on the firewall at some point. But this stuff is much harder to work with due to it's thickness!

I've received the last of the new door seals in the post, so I will be doing those soon as well!

More updates to follow!
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: jazztragic on August 28, 2019, 02:29:58 PM
What an impressive undertaking  :o

I did this few months ago perhaps 1/3 of your effort. Basically lining doors, floor, sides, boot, rear door with Butyl deadener and some random cotton lining.

It worked very well. If you do a knock test on stock Jazz door for example it rings like a bell. A simple 30x30cm butyl completely deadens it.

I am waiting for delivery of my second jazz and might take a vid comparison.

I don't think you can eliminate all the noise due to large glass and proximity to the road. My Landcruiser while well-damped is not as well as my damped Jazz, yet it is quieter. Remember that sound loss is -6db per double distance. So it is easier to loose noise by distance (eg. wheel to driver seat)
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: olduser1 on August 28, 2019, 06:36:09 PM
Great write up and helpful photo of the job.
I agree the choice of tyre & wheel size makes a huge difference on road noise in most cars.
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: TomFum on October 06, 2019, 08:40:05 PM
Some serious work doing into this, love the dedication. Amazed you removed the scuttle panel to put the matting under there too. Keep it up
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: porew on March 19, 2020, 10:19:09 PM
Hi, are there any news reg. the door seals please? This week I insulated the doors on my Jazz Hybrid 2011 and I'm considering adding some extra rubber sealings - so wondering if there's any noticeable difference?
Btw. those plastic boxes in the front door are there to reduce the distortion / echoes made by the front speakers (that's why they have so many edges and holes). They cannot strenghten the door mat as they are basically held "in the air" by three weak plastic "legs" only. I actually cut them out and made the job easier.

I used:
- butyl plates 2mm + open cell foam with waves (to reduce distortion) on the outer metal - the foam I used has some portion of rubber, so it's water resistant (it does not soak like the kitchen sponge:)
- butyl 2mm + closed cell foam 5mm on the sides and bottom - but I made sure not to cover the holes that allow water come out
- butyl plates 2mm on the inner metal to close the "speakerbox"
- butyl plates 2mm + open cell foam (flat, water resistant) 5mm on the door mat
- I also put the original foil back in the place

Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: Hora on July 03, 2021, 08:17:04 PM
WOW.

How much did all this cost and how much weight did it add? <20kg?

Where did you get the material from??

I'm doing just the doors!
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: Lewborghini on February 11, 2022, 01:58:09 PM
Hello, I've been lurking this forum for a while because I want a Jazz next but this thread made me register today to congratulate you for this so far.  8)

I love the detail and painstaking lengths you've gone to with this and to document it so nicely for us.  It reminds me of the build threads on HondaTech from back in the day. 

How are you finding the work done after 6 months etc, it's been a while since the last post here.

Cheers,

Lewis :)
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: MiniNinjaRob on February 16, 2022, 09:36:20 AM
Good thread.

Which sound deadening do you think was the best to do after installing it all? I was thinking of making some improvements but don’t want to go to the lengths you have - any quick wins?
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: Chris_Music on November 22, 2022, 06:16:58 PM
I didn't realise there were so many replies and questions to this thread. I haven't been on here much and didn't get any notifications of replies, so my apologies for the 2+ year gap, I will reply and update this thread with the final sound deadening I did to the car and my overall thoughts and findings.


Hi, are there any news reg. the door seals please? This week I insulated the doors on my Jazz Hybrid 2011 and I'm considering adding some extra rubber sealings - so wondering if there's any noticeable difference?
I added some Neoprene sponge cord inside the existing seal, and that made a big difference, as well as adding a seal between the two doors. The one I purchased is no longer available, but this is basically the same product: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10000287853842.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10000287853842.html)



How much did all this cost and how much weight did it add? <20kg?

Where did you get the material from??

Good thing I kept an excel sheet of all my expenditure on this project.

Total cost was just over £500. Though I think I could've gotten away with less Silent coat and focussed more on the Mass loaded vinyl.

Total weight of all the sound deadening I purchased is 56.25kg (not including the foam, but that stuff is pretty light, so probably round it off to 60kg). But I didn't use all of the sound deadening, and I did end up removing some of it to fit panels back on, etc. So probably between 50-55kg I would say. I only really notice the extra weight when trying to accelerate up hill. General usage and MPG has been largely unaffected, maybe a couple less MPG at best. The extra weight is very evenly distributed though.

The material came from all over the place. Mostly from Amazon, eBay and AliExpress.

Hello, I've been lurking this forum for a while because I want a Jazz next but this thread made me register today to congratulate you for this so far.  8)

I love the detail and painstaking lengths you've gone to with this and to document it so nicely for us.  It reminds me of the build threads on HondaTech from back in the day. 

How are you finding the work done after 6 months etc, it's been a while since the last post here.

Thank you for the kind words. I used to be on HondaTech back in the day with my old EK Civic, though I spent most of my time on CivicLife and would regularly post build updates, so that's probably where I get it from.

The car has been good. The only issue I ran into regarding sound deadening, is the Mass Loaded Vinyl in the boot, I used gorilla tape because it was the only tape strong enough to adhere to the brand of MLV that I used for the boot, but strangely, over the last 2 years the adhesive had melted and leaked from the tape and made quite a mess, but it only leaked from the part of the tape touching the MLV, not the part touching any other surface, so something about the MLV caused the tape adhesive to react. I ended up removing all the sheets and painstakingly cleaning off all the adhesive (a good 2 days work) and I put them all back and used cable ties to link them together instead. If I can be bothered in the future, I might rip it all out and buy some Dodo Barrier MLV like I used for the rest of the car. It was a much better quality MLV. The brand I used in the boot is Car Insulation PeaceMAT, and it's a much cheaper MLV, but it rips quite easily and doesn't stick down well. But we live and learn.

The car isn't silent, but it's pretty quiet. Windows and Tyres are the big things that stop the car from being near silent, but it's a Jazz, not a Lexus/Rolls Royce, there's only so much you can do at the end of the day.

Which sound deadening do you think was the best to do after installing it all? I was thinking of making some improvements but don’t want to go to the lengths you have - any quick wins?

Hmmm, Probably buy quieter tyres will make a good difference, but sound deadening wise, I guess the door seals made a noticeable difference and you don't have to take out any plastics.
Get 15 metres of 8mm thick Neoprene Sponge Black Cord and a can of WD-40 silicone lubricant and remove the door seals and run the Neoprene cord through the void space of inside of the seals. The doors are hard to close at first because of the thicker seals, but they settle down pretty quickly, and you get a tighter door seal, which stops a decent amount of road noise.

Some butyl sheets inside the doors make a decent difference, if not just for the satisfying thud when you close the doors. It's hard to say really. I would love to sit in another Jazz of the same year and get a true comparison and just listen to where I can hear the sound seeping in most.
Title: Re: Sound Deadening Project - Silencing the Jazz
Post by: Chris_Music on November 22, 2022, 08:09:32 PM
As promised, the missing updates from my sound deadening project

Sound Deadening Part 8: Wheel Arches - June 2019

(https://images2.imgbox.com/1a/7c/53A5NWtZ_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/31/1d/Uc45nAPd_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/ed/db/RcNUE9Qy_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/ef/e4/tXf0U62a_o.jpg)
The factory sound deadening on the arch liner for comparison
(https://images2.imgbox.com/6c/f3/greXdvSN_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/02/30/mMH3nw0u_o.jpg)

I found that the combination of foam on the wheel arch and wheel arch liner meant the liner stuck out just a bit too far and rubbed on the wheel when I turned it full lock. So I had to take it off again and remove the foam from the liner and just have the foam on the arch instead.
I don't remember this making that much of difference to be honest, but that might be because of the extensive work I had already done making it quieter already.


Sound Deadening Part 9: Door Seals - July 2019

I can't remember where I got the idea from, but I bought some fish tank hose and some WD-40 silicone lubricant and fed the tube into the existing door seals to pack it out a bit more to create a tighter seal.

(https://images2.imgbox.com/3b/7e/wNriZ0Wx_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/ae/c5/EEpkYF3H_o.jpg)

I think that either it didn't work well or I found a better solution, but I ended up buying 15 metres of 8mm thick Neoprene Sponge Black Cord (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283441873957) and using the WD-40 silicone lubricant to feed it through the door seals.
I bought 8mm, but I think you could get away with 10mm

(https://images2.imgbox.com/38/76/DXbVvSVt_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/cb/4e/AtlIbNCN_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/88/75/bzqH6blk_o.jpg)

It worked great, and at first the door was a little hard to close, but after a bit of time the seal settled in and closed fine.

I also ordered a seal for the gap between the two doors. This was pretty easy to fit and is holding up well over 2 years later.
(https://images2.imgbox.com/dc/ae/o73Js1mp_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/17/3b/V7NUqn78_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/1f/2f/W2SdeSRy_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/76/9b/j4pjkizd_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/8d/a0/RPQCoSMv_o.jpg)

The one I purchased is no longer available, but this is basically the same product:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10000287853842.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10000287853842.html)


Sound Deadening Part 10: Making the plastics fit better - August 2019

I ended up removing a some of the sound deadening because the plastics weren't fitting well. I think I ended up removing about 6kg worth.

I also removed the butyl that was on the pre existing sound deadening to save a bit of weight

(https://images2.imgbox.com/42/91/RXmFshDe_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/73/ea/th6p0ioA_o.jpg)
(https://images2.imgbox.com/6e/43/sEYuDRq1_o.jpg)

The bucket full of removed sound deadening
(https://images2.imgbox.com/91/f1/cIQVotkK_o.jpg)


Sound Deadening Part 11: The Final Verdict - What I learnt and Was it worth it?

There is surprisingly little official information about sound deadening online (mostly stuff from other DIY folk), and a lot of conflicting information as well.
So much I learnt from trial and error and just tonnes and tonnes of research. Including looking at Lexus car plans and seeing how they get their cars so quiet (mostly sound insulation, but also double paned windows, which I can't do anything about in the Jazz).

Here's the important stuff I learnt:

The Butyl layer doesn't need to cover everything. From research, only 33% coverage is really needed, anything more is just diminishing returns. So just putting squares on the areas that resonate most is all that is needed really.
Most of the people who need to cover every surface are people who enter professional car audio competitions, which is where most of the information on sound deadening largely comes from online. I found much better information when looking for sound deadening when converting a commercial Van into a mobile home.

The 3 layers of sound deadening:
Butyl: stops panel resonance/vibration
Closed Cell Foam: sound insulation absorber (and also a needed barrier between Butyl and MLV)
Mass Loaded Vinyl: Sound blocker (not absorber).

If I was doing it all over again, I would not use anywhere near as much Buytl, I would buy the thinnest Closed cell foam and focus on the coverage with the MLV, as the MLV is what really makes the difference when it comes to sound deadening, so the maximum amount of coverage with MLV is best, but MLV is the most expensive part, and it isn't self adhesive like butyl/CCF, so getting it to stick to surfaces is a pain.

Was it worth it?
No, no it wasn't worth it, given the cost (£500), time (100s of hours), added weight to the car (50-55kg) and amount of research and trial & error I had to go through to get to where I am now, it wasn't worth it.
 
But would I do it again with my next car, given what I now know and the experience I have?

Absolutely! The car is significantly quieter and nicer to drive and just feels so much more premium. Hearing the soft door thud every time I get in the car is so nice. And when I'm a passenger in any other car and hear the loud clang of the door closing and all the road noise that gets let it, it reinforces how much nicer it is with all the sound deadening. Motorway conversations are also so much nicer, no raised voices. The insulation also helps keep it warm in winter and cool in the summer.

So I guess it was worth it then! I just hope I don't have to do it all over again in a hurry that's all! I plan on keeping the Jazz for the foreseeable future.

Hopefully this wrapping up of the build helps anyone thinking of undertaking this themselves.
If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask!
Hopefully it will notify me this time!