Clubjazz - Honda Jazz & HR-V Forums
Other Hondas & General Topics => Off Topic (Non-Honda) => Topic started by: Kremmen on August 15, 2022, 07:36:50 AM
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I have to agree, the A119 V3 is the best I've had.
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I've eventually got round to fitting mine into our MK3 but not took the car out to test the angle and filter set up as yet. Decided to take the easy route to plug it into the cigarette lighter socket as I believe access to the fuse box is a bit of a faff and I'm too old and fat to struggle...
It does seem to be a well received make and model.
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V3 ?
Angle as close to 90 degrees as you can get, not too much sky or it plays havoc with the EV auto exposure.
Filter is preset in the factory and the long slot goes to the top.
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I've eventually got round to fitting mine into our MK3 but not took the car out to test the angle and filter set up as yet. Decided to take the easy route to plug it into the cigarette lighter socket as I believe access to the fuse box is a bit of a faff and I'm too old and fat to struggle...
It does seem to be a well received make and model.
I've watched videos of people installing dashcams and it's too mentally and physically taxing for me. Right up there with mountain climbing and brain surgery. How did you get on with plugging into the lighter socket? Is there a lot of trailing wiring?
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On the MK3, the lighter socket is to the right of the console, therefore I used 2 of the adhesive clips to secure the looped cable to the top of the underside then around the left until it gets to the glove box area. The excess cable was wound up, secured with wire wrap and popped behind the back of the console. Just been out for a drive, no unexpected dash alerts and the camera appeared to make the right start up noise.
It's not a massive job, to me, the worst bit is the transition from the corner of the roof over the plastic pillar trim. The rubber door seal trim can be a bit of a fiddle too but all in, wit a bit of chin rubbing it was probably an hour of humming and ahhring.
I did my CRV a few years ago which was easier to the lack of windscreen plastic and access to the fuse box being straightforward for a hardwire kit which wasn't the same this time, hence the pug in cable.
Also, it doesn't seem to be rattling anywhere at the moment.
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70 Mai dashcam for reference.
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It's very difficult to accurately assess dashcam video's in YT as they tend to compress/process it, even in HD mode.
When owners ask for help on the dashcam forum we always ask for the original RAW file to download locally.
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I don't think I have RAW. Just MP4.
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That's what I meant, sorry for the confusion.
Playing a .MP4 on a PC rather than viewing on YT is always better.
My 3 minute .MP4 clips are about 650Mb though.
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Unfortunately, mine isn't behaving itself and is making random length videos, with gaps between where there is missing footage. There wasn't a start up tone.
I've changed the lighter adaptor and the same then sat with it in the kitchen with a different card, on a battery and new cable and it does the same. This was purchased from Viofo via Amazon Prime in November, past the return window therefore messaged Viofo via amazon.
Dissapointed to say the least...
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Check the car power socket USB converter power. Dashcams typically require at least 1.5A which a lot don't output.
Also reformat the sdcard (FAT32)
The V3 very rarely goes wrong.
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Viofo replied stating probably the card; I tried 3 more and the final one is now recording 3 minute videos, albeit on a battery pack in the kitchen as my wife has the car.
Hopefully, it is just a card issue as I have tried duplicates of everything and updated the firmware.
I may invest in one of the approved cards to mitigate any future issues going un noticed.
Lastly, I need to adjust the polarising filter as it sees reflection of the dash and pillars, it's not the easiest to adjust, I don't seem to remember it being as stiff when it was on my previous camera (I left in the old car).
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For the V3 the best card is a Samsung Evo Plus U3 Class 10, and make sure it's genuine.
The V3 CPL doesn't need adjusting, it's fixed in the factory !
My SDCard :
(https://i.imgur.com/ZQnmEfM.jpg)
V3 Filter in place :
(https://i.imgur.com/DljKi2X.jpg)
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For the V3 the best card is a Samsung Evo Plus U3 Class 10, and make sure it's genuine.
Indeed, the auction sites etc are awash with fake stuff like memory cards, spark plugs etc. Pay a couple of quid extra and get one from a place with a well known respectable name. I did look recently for a Samsung memory card and at the time Tesco came out well on price, but offers change regularly.
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I got mine from Scan UK as they are official Samsung resellers.
I've heard good reports about Mr Memory and MyMemory
If unsure or as a double check run the card through h2testw to check
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...Mine was a Samsung Evo Plus also. 256gb for £20.
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Thanks for the suggestions but ordered one of these before reading these suggestions...
Samsung PRO Endurance 128GB microSDXC UHS-I U3 100MB/s Video Monitoring Memory Card with Adapter
£25 supplied from and by Amazon. Hopefully this is OK.
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As long as it has good write speeds.
Typically 'endurance' cards have been slower but newer ones are catching up.
When it arrives also run it through 'Speedout0.5'
All PC card speed tests must be performed via a USB3 port and adapter as USB2 is too slow and bottlenecks.
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Changed it to the Evo plus...
With regard to the filter, I can see a red dot on the edge, I'm sure I had one but have rotated it around and can't find it. I suspect I will just have to go back and forth to review the footage.
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The trick with filters is to put a piece of white paper on the dash then rotate the filter until the paper appears the darkest.
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The trick with filters is to put a piece of white paper on the dash then rotate the filter until the paper appears the darkest.
until the REFLECTION of the paper appears the darkest.
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Re the V3 polarising filter :
I've just checked both mine and they are clearly marked, in the factory, for max polarising effect. If you've altered yours then they should be easy to realign :
(https://i.imgur.com/bkcP38i.jpg)
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Re the V3 polarising filter :
I've just checked both mine and they are clearly marked, in the factory, for max polarising effect. If you've altered yours then they should be easy to realign :
(https://i.imgur.com/bkcP38i.jpg)
Thanks, I thought that was the case and had to adjust it slightly in the CRV. However, I rotated the lens yesterday and no markings so followed a video to adjust it using the lcd screen and will evaluate it.
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Just to let folk know .......
Having read all the recommendations and watched reviews, I decided to opt for the Viofo 119 Mini. It is essentially similar to the 119 V3, just a few tweaks.
I found that the prices on the https://viofo.com/ website were significantly lower than the https://viofouk.co.uk/ site, but bear in mind that ordering on the .com site means the items are posted from China not the UK and you need to remember the limits for duty etc.
I took a deep breath and ordered from the .com site (I generally don't like ordering direct from China but the savings were significant). The communications have been superb, the tracking details are unbelievably well documented showing the blow by blow movements from China to the door. It arrived this morning having ordered on 13th Dec, so 8 days from order to delivery. My order for the camera, hardwire kit, and polarising lens came to £131, the limit for duty is £135 so there was nothing to pay. If you want more kit it would be worth seeing if you can split the order to keep each package below the threshold.
I was waiting till the camera arrived before ordering a card so haven't been able to set it up yet, hopefully all will be well !!
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Just to let folk know .......
Having read all the recommendations and watched reviews, I decided to opt for the Viofo 119 Mini. It is essentially similar to the 119 V3, just a few tweaks.
Thank you for this. I'm thinking of getting a dashcam; I will be hoping for a report when you get it installed and working.
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All I can add is that some users have found the Mini to overheat in the summer.
They reckon the smaller housing and reduced ventilation slots are to blame.
Homework : https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/forums/a119-mini.396/
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According to what I've seen, the overheating issue was in either pre-prod or very early units and in hot (35C+) climates, but Viofo made mods to the ventilation and/or heatsinks to address it and it seems to be not a problem now. It's certainly not a common issue anyway. Fingers crossed.
With 40C now appearing here in the UK (!!!) in summer, maybe time will tell ..........
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Viofo do attend Dashcamtalk and do listen so that makes sense.
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...How much smaller do you really need to go? the A119 is hardly bulky!
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I am considering changing my A119 to something else (what I don't know). Despite trying different firmware and boot delays it still starts when it likes and doesn't on others. I will see how it goes in the Fabia and decide then.
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Where are you wired ?
There are a lot of circuits that are temporarily killed off by the starter crank. You need to find one that stays live. They are there and are often the ones that only become live when the ignition is in position 2.
No matter what cam you get they all will probably suffer the same.
DCT is littered with this issue across all brands I've looked at.
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...How much smaller do you really need to go? the A119 is hardly bulky!
As many folk have commented, the 119 Mini isn't really "mini" compared to the V3, it's slightly shorter/narrower but thicker. The screen is significantly smaller if that matters to anyone, but there are a couple of perhaps useful features (e.g. wi-fi, buttons are differently placed to make it easier to find the save, and it has voice notifications etc). Nothing much is a real deal maker/breaker between the V3 and Mini, I just thought I'd try the Mini.
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Where are you wired ?
It is connected to the aux socket which is only live when the ignition is on. Come to think of it, if I run it off the Powerbank it won't be an issue.
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There are 2 ignition positions. If the socket becomes live in the first (accessory) position then that circuit will likely lose power during cranking.
I don't know about the older Hondas but if there is a fusebox accessory socket then in there will be a pin that doesn't lose power. Being as option connectors are difficult to obtain you can often use a shielded 2mm connector. That's what I did on my 8G and 9G Civics before I sourced the option connectors.
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Today it started fine but further down the road it had stopped. As the car goes next week I will not be changing anything. The GPS speedometer connected to the Aux socket stays live as the car cranks.