Battery going flat

[sparky Paul]

The double din replacement is a cracking upgrade.

You need a bit of patience, but the effort is well worth it... It's also possible to interface to the existing steering wheel controls, so everything works.

[UKjim]

The double din replacement is a cracking upgrade.

You need a bit of patience, but the effort is well worth it... It's also possible to interface to the existing steering wheel controls, so everything works.

Agreed, with the right cabling looms the steering wheel controls can be programmed to any function you want. I have the volume button as is, the mode button as telephone answering and the channel up/ down as screen brightness. I don’t need the original functions for the latter two as it is in permanent CarPlay mode.



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[Jocko]

My Mk 1 doesn't have steering wheel controls.

[sparky Paul]

My Mk 1 doesn't have steering wheel controls.

SE model has the steering wheel buttons. I wonder if the loom wiring and squib is there for it on the S?

[Jocko]

Doubt it. There is no loom for the rear speakers.

[UKjim]

Just been out to the car and the battery was as good as flat, just about started.

The battery was fully charged on Tuesday with a battery health of 89%, driven 20 miles on Wednesday, 60 miles on Thursday, 4 miles on Friday evening, now barely able to turn the car over. Parasitic drain measured on Wednesday as 55-65mA, this should not have drained the battery.

Despite the battery tester telling me the battery has good health, am I right in thinking suspicion is on a duff battery?

[MartinJG]

The previous owner of my Jazz (Mk2) had a problem with battery power drain. I recall the Honda dealers finally traced it to rear of the car somewhere near the rear light wiring harness where a loose or rusted connection was causing the power to earth out through the bodyshell. Hope that makes sense .

[embee]

.....Despite the battery tester telling me the battery has good health, am I right in thinking suspicion is on a duff battery?

I think in your situation if it was me I'd take a punt and go for a new battery anyway. If it's a few years old you are not really throwing away significant money even if it turns out not to be the real culprit. If it really is the battery, then a new one from https://www.tayna.co.uk/  will be money well spent. Personally I like the Yuasa 5000 series batteries as a good blend of quality and price, but "other makes are available".

[culzean]

Despite the battery tester telling me the battery has good health, am I right in thinking suspicion is on a duff battery?

Not possible to really test a battery in the short time most places do it,  they only test CCA, which is only part of the story,  it is hard to test charge acceptance and reserve power ( Ah ).  If a battery has been allowed to remain below 70% charge for any length of time sulphation is a real risk, and 70% is about 12.4 volts,  which is why I am replacing my 5 year old motorbike battery as it settles at 12.4 volts a few days after fully charging,  and I know there is no parasitic drain.

https://batteryworld.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/battery-test-results-interpret

[sparky Paul]

Culzean's right. Battery tester will tell you if the battery is definitely bad, but not a guarantee that it's all good.

Symptoms point to battery. For the sake of 40-odd quid, I think I would try a battery, if only to rule it out.

[Kremmen]

Years ago, my wife left the sidelights on on a 3 month old Metro. It completely flattened the battery and even after a full charge and a 200 mile trip it never held a charge.

Had to get a new battery and all was well again.

[UKjim]

I  have just ordered a Yuasa 5000 series just to be sure.


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[UKjim]

I purchased an Amp Hound from Amazon which was delivered in a week from the US. 

Enables you to measure the parasitic drain directly from each fuse without removing the fuse, which is very handy. Just popped out and tested the under bonnet fuse box which took all of a minute. Fuse 8 (back up) is drawing between 20-30mA which seems reasonable to me, all others zero. I will be testing the interior fuse box tomorrow and report back.

This is the SnapOn version of the same thing but £80 more expensive!

https://shop.snapon.com/product/Specialty-Circuit-Tester/Amp-Hound-(Blue-Point)/EECT74


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[Kremmen]

Just as a side post .....

I remember a post on the Civic site from a dealer who said that when you lock the car you should always double lock via the keyfob second press.

The second press, as well as deadlocking, also shuts down all unneeded circuits. If you don't deadlock then some circuits are left open.

Whether the Jazz is the same ?

[UKjim]

Having read the instructions for the Amp Hound carefully, I tested every fuse from both fuse boxes today and the only parasitic drain of 35mA is fuse 8 in the under bonnet fuse box . There was no drain from my dashcam. I am now convinced my problem was the battery. My new Yuasa arrived today.
The reason I measured it as 25mA yesterday was because I had set the fuse type to the incorrect setting.
The Amp Hound is a really useful bit of kit that enables you to test all the fuses in minutes without breaking any connections.


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