Author Topic: Corroded Brake Pipe & Other Woes - ***Video Link Attached***. Updated Video June  (Read 5918 times)

mattytowel

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  • Country: gb
  • My Honda: Honda Jazz 2002 of some sort
I've read this thread with interest, but I have a further question.  Hopefully if some of you are following this you'll have some advice.

My wife's 2002 Jazz with rear drum brakes failed it's MOT on rusty sills and corroded rear brake pipes/hoses (it wasn't explicit which), one of which split when the inspector touched it, so we haven't used it since driving it home in late September.

I've had the sills welded.  I've got the car on ramps in the drive and the pipes are badly corroded on both sides, so I bought replacement pipes and hoses, and I've sprayed the unions with penetrating oil a few times over the past month.

Today (in the snow) I can undo the unions from the hoses to the long pipes running front to back, but both my old and brand new 10mm flare spanners are slipping on the nuts of the unions leading into the calipers and between the hose and final pipe, because the nuts are corroded.

I'm tempted to either:
Use my mini flame gun to heat up the metal around the union, and try again
or
Cut the pipe at the union, so I can get a 10mm hex socket on to the nut, if that slips I could hammer a 3/8" (9.5mm) one into place and have another go.

I'd appreciate the benfit of your experience before doing something silly and expensive.  Thanks in advance.

Matthew
When we ask for advice, we are usually looking for an accomplice. -  Saul Bellow

culzean

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  • Country: england
I've read this thread with interest, but I have a further question.  Hopefully if some of you are following this you'll have some advice.

My wife's 2002 Jazz with rear drum brakes failed it's MOT on rusty sills and corroded rear brake pipes/hoses (it wasn't explicit which), one of which split when the inspector touched it, so we haven't used it since driving it home in late September.

I've had the sills welded.  I've got the car on ramps in the drive and the pipes are badly corroded on both sides, so I bought replacement pipes and hoses, and I've sprayed the unions with penetrating oil a few times over the past month.

Today (in the snow) I can undo the unions from the hoses to the long pipes running front to back, but both my old and brand new 10mm flare spanners are slipping on the nuts of the unions leading into the calipers and between the hose and final pipe, because the nuts are corroded.

I'm tempted to either:
Use my mini flame gun to heat up the metal around the union, and try again
or
Cut the pipe at the union, so I can get a 10mm hex socket on to the nut, if that slips I could hammer a 3/8" (9.5mm) one into place and have another go.

I'd appreciate the benfit of your experience before doing something silly and expensive.  Thanks in advance.

Matthew

maybe replace flexible hose that leads onto torsion beam and everything behind it....


https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p3671980.m570.l1313&_nkw=honda+jazz+brake+pipes&_sacat=0

« Last Edit: November 28, 2021, 01:23:52 PM by culzean »
Some people will only consider you an expert if they agree with your point of view or advice,  when you give them advice they don't like they consider you an idiot

madasafish

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  • Country: gb
  • My Honda: 1.4 ES CVT -2012
I

Today (in the snow) I can undo the unions from the hoses to the long pipes running front to back, but both my old and brand new 10mm flare spanners are slipping on the nuts of the unions leading into the calipers and between the hose and final pipe, because the nuts are corroded.


I'd appreciate the benfit of your experience before doing something silly and expensive.  Thanks in advance.

Matthew


Locking pliers will undo anything . (almost)

https://www.screwfix.com/p/locking-pliers-set-3-pieces/4091V?tc=XA5&ds_kid=92700055262507126&ds_rl=1244066&gclid=Cj0KCQiA7oyNBhDiARIsADtGRZYe1sRWNDVbkIcDEPyy3mh0T8Wkm874eFOoimLIp5N99L8-PJdEVgAaAvzYEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

gtd2000

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  • Country: scotland
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  • My Honda: 2006 Honda Jazz
The car had an MoT a week ago and failed on brake pipes and a passenger side drop link.

I made up three new brake lines (video to follow later) and fitted the drop link.

I purchased the Honda Jazz brake hose kit from these helpful folks in Norn Irn.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280886338926

The tester mentioned that although the car passed the brake tests, the rear passenger side handbrake mechanism was defective and locking on. He had to manually release the mechanism after the handbrake test.

He verified that it was the same problem that I experienced with the driver side, which was eventually replaced when brand new.

The calipers have a two year warranty and the vendor is trying their level best to renege on the two year warranty period.

They also acted somewhat strangely, when the driver side caliper was defective out of the box last year.
« Last Edit: February 24, 2022, 10:27:28 AM by gtd2000 »

gtd2000

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  • Tell it as it is..NOT how it should be!
  • My Honda: 2006 Honda Jazz
I've read this thread with interest, but I have a further question.  Hopefully if some of you are following this you'll have some advice.

My wife's 2002 Jazz with rear drum brakes failed it's MOT on rusty sills and corroded rear brake pipes/hoses (it wasn't explicit which), one of which split when the inspector touched it, so we haven't used it since driving it home in late September.

I've had the sills welded.  I've got the car on ramps in the drive and the pipes are badly corroded on both sides, so I bought replacement pipes and hoses, and I've sprayed the unions with penetrating oil a few times over the past month.

Today (in the snow) I can undo the unions from the hoses to the long pipes running front to back, but both my old and brand new 10mm flare spanners are slipping on the nuts of the unions leading into the calipers and between the hose and final pipe, because the nuts are corroded.

I'm tempted to either:
Use my mini flame gun to heat up the metal around the union, and try again
or
Cut the pipe at the union, so I can get a 10mm hex socket on to the nut, if that slips I could hammer a 3/8" (9.5mm) one into place and have another go.

I'd appreciate the benfit of your experience before doing something silly and expensive.  Thanks in advance.

Matthew

I had a hell of a job getting the metal brake line from the caliper to the flexi hose disconnected.

I originally tried snipping the brake line and putting in a hex head 10mm and all I managed to achieve was a rounding off of the cheese like material the male connector is made from!

I eventually undid the pipe clip for the flexi and pulled it from the trailing arm. Two pairs of mole grips soon had the duo part company!

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