Driveshaft - warranty fix? - SOLVED

[metallicpearl]

I'm trying trying to stay on good terms with the dealers but the suggestion that something has to be an MOT failure before it qualifies for a warranty fix is baffling to me.

[Jocko]

Have you contacted Honda direct to enquire about this policy? Send them the link to this thread.

[sparky Paul]

I'm trying trying to stay on good terms with the dealers but the suggestion that something has to be an MOT failure before it qualifies for a warranty fix is baffling to me.

It's just to fob you off until the end of the warranty period, and fairly standard practice from my experience. It's the main reason I avoid warranties on used cars, you often have to make a nuisance of yourself to get anything done.

I'm guessing that the dealer has to make some contribution to these 'Honda Approved Used' warranty claims, dealers are normally falling over themselves to find work on new car warranties that the manufacturer will pay for.

[metallicpearl]

So I spoke to Honda this afternoon...who initially  said I have to pay a diagnostic fee for the time spent raising a report to the master technician. They've waived the fee now under goodwill.

It seems the Approved Used Warranty might not be the same as a new car warranty, as I was told when I bought it. That said, this might be common practice that I've never encountered.

[sparky Paul]

It beggars belief really that they expect you to drive a car around making banging and clunking noises, just because they CBA to make an effort and find the problem. A car that you have paid good money for, at that. To put the top hat on it, they wanted you to pay extra for them to make an effort!

Yes, some knocks and rattles can be difficult to pinpoint, but it can always be done, one way or another. I would be tempted to tell them it's not a very good advertisement for Honda when people in the street stare at the car because of the clunking noises!

[John A]

It seems the Approved Used Warranty might not be the same as a new car warranty, as I was told when I bought it.

If it's the same as others, then a used "warranty" is an insurance product, and they're never going to easily pay out for a claim. With a new car / manufacturers warranty then they're probably looking at keeping the customer happy, but without breaking the company.

[Rory]

Exactly - generally something has to have clearly broken / failed.  "It's making a funny noise" is never going to cut it.

[metallicpearl]

I've now got the car back and it's no better.

The dealer said any further work is chargeable and they think the sound has gone. I literally drove it down tbe road the dealership is on and it was there, knocking away.

I feel a bit stuck now. Bought a car with a reputation for reliability, with a manufacturer approved warranty yet I'm stuck with this awful noise. Honda seem to have reached the limit with how much they want to help.

I'm thinking of taking it to an independent garage but I'll have to pay for that. I wonder if they'd be able to find the cause.

[Jocko]

Change the other drop link then go from there.

[Rory]

I feel a bit stuck now. Bought a car with a reputation for reliability, with a manufacturer approved warranty yet I'm stuck with this awful noise. Honda seem to have reached the limit with how much they want to help.

I'm thinking of taking it to an independent garage but I'll have to pay for that. I wonder if they'd be able to find the cause.

What are the dealers like that you're using?  The old, little independent dealers had a good reputation.  The newer ones, often part of larger groups, seem pretty hopeless.

Honda have changed too - we had the rear discs and pads changed FOC by one of the old type of dealer on our first mk2 because they looked tatty.  The second mk2 developed an issue where one of the pads wore out - took three dealer visits to sort it and both the dealer and Honda completely refused to accept any responsibility for sending car out with worn out brakes, or for it happening in the first place.

Honda used to have a repuation for going the extra mile, but if they're not going to do that then people might as well buy something else.

[sparky Paul]

Well, it seems that you have two choices. Either you do as they suggest, and drive around with it banging away until whatever is causing it is hanging off, or find a decent independent garage, explain the situation, let them have a drive, point the noise out, and see what they can do.

For something like this, you need someone who has been in the trade for a while and knows all the tricks to find obscure suspension faults. They may well suggest the other droplink without looking, just to rule it out, and I'm with Jocko on starting there.

As I said earlier, knocks and bangs can sometimes be tricky to pinpoint, but it can be done with a bit of patience. There is almost certainly no danger in "letting it develop", but these noises drive you nuts and become unnecessarily distracting - you end up driving about concentrating on the noises the car is making, rather than the far more important matter at hand.

[metallicpearl]

Thankyou for the input, peeps.

I have now had both droplinks replaced and the sound is still there. I've checked the sway bar bushes and there's no play at all.

I'm wondering whether it is something that is protected by the plastic cover underneath...

[Jocko]

I don't know about your model, but the Mk 1 has the centre box running along side the offside inner sill. I had a knock caused by the box knocking against the sill (albeit after having the box replaced), but it is something easily checked.

[metallicpearl]

I don't know about your model, but the Mk 1 has the centre box running along side the offside inner sill. I had a knock caused by the box knocking against the sill (albeit after having the box replaced), but it is something easily checked.

Are you referring to the exhaust?

[Jocko]

Sorry, yes.