where is the central locking unit?

[DV]

Hi,

I`ve fitted my Hawk unit above the pedals onto the panel which is the bottom cover of the dashboard (the removable panel).
On the right hand side where the bonnet opener is I took the kick panel off and behind there is this connector, https://dl.dropbox.com/u/18635761/Honda%20Hawk/Hawk.jpg
The white (unlock) and white/red (lock) cables are the unlock/lock wires. I cut them and joined the relevant wires from the hawk unit to it. (I used the negative locking diagram.) Furthermore I connected the red/black cable (from the Hawk unit) to the lock wire without any relay to use it as a secondary lock impulse to use the dead-locking on the car - so far it works, it does not matter in which order I press the buttons to lock the car, the boot release button gives impulse after 3 seconds continuous press).
The negative wire from the hawk unit twisted with the locking "negative" wires together and connected to the bonnet opener bolt.
On the right hand side of the fusebox there are 3 wires (2 thick one and 1 thinner - blue/red I think - all are constant positive), I used the thinner one to power the Hawk unit.


Hopefully it helps...

[guest3334]

Thank you for the detailed reply and the snap. Now I have a fair idea how to fix the hawk system to my car.

To wire  the hawk unit i think you have removed the insulation of wires that go into the white connector (the cables marked in figure) and then tied the wires from the hawk and insulated it later. This needs to be done very carefully i guess.

Is there any other way to tap the signals without cuting wires ?
Fellow user 'kotarou' was mentioned that connector 13 in fuse box gives lock / unlock pins .

Deadlock means you cant open the car from inside as well right ?
Is this supported in GD1 version of Jazz (2003, base version)
I dont need that feature anyway i think.

Hi,

I`ve fitted my Hawk unit above the pedals onto the panel which is the bottom cover of the dashboard (the removable panel).
On the right hand side where the bonnet opener is I took the kick panel off and behind there is this connector, https://dl.dropbox.com/u/18635761/Honda%20Hawk/Hawk.jpg
The white (unlock) and white/red (lock) cables are the unlock/lock wires. I cut them and joined the relevant wires from the hawk unit to it. (I used the negative locking diagram.) Furthermore I connected the red/black cable (from the Hawk unit) to the lock wire without any relay to use it as a secondary lock impulse to use the dead-locking on the car - so far it works, it does not matter in which order I press the buttons to lock the car, the boot release button gives impulse after 3 seconds continuous press).
The negative wire from the hawk unit twisted with the locking "negative" wires together and connected to the bonnet opener bolt.
On the right hand side of the fusebox there are 3 wires (2 thick one and 1 thinner - blue/red I think - all are constant positive), I used the thinner one to power the Hawk unit.


Hopefully it helps...

[chrisc]

The locking device only needs an impulse in order to operate and can come from a circuit with a 10A fuse on it.

The receiver can go in any convenient place.  You will be standing close to the car when you operate the remote, so do not need a long range.  If there is an aerial sticking out of the box, make sure it is straight.

[DV]

I used this crimp connector to join the wires: http://www.screwfix.com/p/insulated-crimp-red-butt-pack-of-100/94616, basically soldering would be the best but the room is quite small there so I rather used the crimp connectors.

Deadlock means you cant open the car from inside as well right ?

Yes, that is right and if you lock your car twice you should hear the locking sound twice so the deadlock is on. You should see the sticker on the window too from Honda.
I did not check connector 13.
The aerial on the unit is a thick black insulated wire and I left it partly hanging down above the pedals.

[guest3334]

Hi friends,

There is a central locking switch on the driver door handle. I was wondering if connections to the hawk module can be tapped from those to which the switch is connected. This may be a relatively risk free area to explore for novice. Remove that panel is also very easy. There is a youtube video illustrating the same.

http://m.youtube.com/?reason=8&rdm=4926#/watch?v=Zs2A01dWvGs&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DZs2A01dWvGs&gl=GB

Any idea on this.

[guest3334]

Hi friends

Does the battery needs to be disconnected while fitting the module ? (Air bags issues?)

In the negative locking diagram its written to program the module before connections are made. However, no further information was provided in installation manual.

I need some guidance in removing the kickpanels as well

1. remove fuse unit cover
2. remove 3 screws around fuse unit and pull out the panel around it
3. turn the lock at boot of dash 90 degree
4. pullout the kick panel

Is this the correct way ?

I used this crimp connector to join the wires: http://www.screwfix.com/p/insulated-crimp-red-butt-pack-of-100/94616, basically soldering would be the best but the room is quite small there so I rather used the crimp connectors.

Deadlock means you cant open the car from inside as well right ?

Yes, that is right and if you lock your car twice you should hear the locking sound twice so the deadlock is on. You should see the sticker on the window too from Honda.
I did not check connector 13.
The aerial on the unit is a thick black insulated wire and I left it partly hanging down above the pedals.

[DV]

I did not disconnect the battery when I was working on the cabling. After the cabling finished you can plug the connector onto the Hawk unit and job done. Make sure the unit gets the proper 12V.
You don`t really need to get the fuse cover off because the wiring is below the fusebox.
After you turned the knob 90 degree you have to pull down the panel (2 other clips holds that) and after take off the side cover too (where the bonnet opener is).
The cables what I was using are coming from the drivers door lock (when the key turns it makes contacts only).

[guest3334]

Hi friends

Some help needed in removing the panels.

For the under the dash board panel there are 2 clips which hold it on to the body and a rotary type clip which holds it to do the dash.I turned the rotary clip 90Deg and the panel loosened there. But, There seem to be two more clips near to the rotory cips hence its not fully detaching from the dash (as seen in figure attached). Since its not detaching from dash I cant pull the cover out to take the panel out of other two clips on the body. Are these just pull down type clips ?

To take out the kickpanel in lower A pillar is it necessary to removed the hood opener handle or will it come out without that.

Thank you

I did not disconnect the battery when I was working on the cabling. After the cabling finished you can plug the connector onto the Hawk unit and job done. Make sure the unit gets the proper 12V.
You don`t really need to get the fuse cover off because the wiring is below the fusebox.
After you turned the knob 90 degree you have to pull down the panel (2 other clips holds that) and after take off the side cover too (where the bonnet opener is).
The cables what I was using are coming from the drivers door lock (when the key turns it makes contacts only).