Author Topic: will battery charger damage these stop start batteries?  (Read 3267 times)

culzean

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Re: will battery charger damage these stop start batteries?
« Reply #15 on: April 14, 2020, 04:19:02 PM »
You are better off getting a decent charger as the voltages it applies to battery ( and because the battery still connected to the car, to the car electrics ) will be better controlled - with some older less well designed chargers ( basically just a transformer rectifier ) and  it was nothing to measure up to 20 volts until the clamps were connected to battery,  and there was no reverse polarity protection,  checking state of charge etc.   Some of the more modern chargers will not charge a flat battery as they cannot see enough voltage coming back to allow current flow, you need to connect a decent battery in parallel with flat battery to allow charging and then remove good battery as soon as flat battery has acquired some voltage of its own and charger is happy to carry on with its charging. 

A 5 amp charger like the CTEC-MXS-5.0 referred to in a previous post  is probably as much as you will ever need 99% of the time .

I regularly replace original equipment motorbike battery with AGM without a problem and enjoy the longer life, never had one fail because it was overcharged by the charging system designed for a flooded battery ( and motorbike charging systems can be very crude compared to a car ).  Modern car charging systems are better than the older ones that could boil a battery,  but still capable of pumping some serious amps into a battery,  AGM can take a charge faster than  a flooded battery but can suffer overcharging if charger settles onto a 'float' voltage that is too high ( most decent chargers will have a 'standard or 'AGM' switch,  but it is mainly to do with the float voltage the unit will select to 'trickle' or 'maintenance charge' the battery once main charging is over,  although most chargers will select 13.6 to 13.8 volts for float, which is safe for pretty much any battery.

Have a look at battery university website for good technical info on all sorts of batteries.

DON'T FORGET THAT WHEN CHARGING JAZZ STOP-START BATTERY THE NEGATIVE CLAMP NEEDS TO GO TO AN EARTH POINT ON CHASSIS NOT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY POST - THIS ALLOWS THE ELD SENSOR IN BATTERY CIRCUIT TO COUNT THE CHARGE GOING INTO BATTERY - IF YOU DON'T DO THIS THE BATTERY WILL BE FULLY CHARGED BUT THE BRAIN IN THE CAR WILL NOT BE AWARE HOW MUCH POWER HAS GONE INTO BATTERY.  The state of charge of stop-start battery uses 'coulomb counting'  - it measures what goes in and what comes back out via a current sensor,  if you connect to negative post the sensor is bypassed.  So leave the car wiring cables connected to battery when charging.

https://clubjazz.org/forum/index.php?topic=10836.msg76292#msg76292
« Last Edit: April 14, 2020, 05:28:56 PM by culzean »
Some people will only consider you an expert if they agree with your point of view or advice,  when you give them advice they don't like they consider you an idiot

plasma

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Re: will battery charger damage these stop start batteries?
« Reply #16 on: April 15, 2020, 04:47:49 PM »
You are better off getting a decent charger as the voltages it applies to battery ( and because the battery still connected to the car, to the car electrics ) will be better controlled - with some older less well designed chargers ( basically just a transformer rectifier ) and  it was nothing to measure up to 20 volts until the clamps were connected to battery,  and there was no reverse polarity protection,  checking state of charge etc.   Some of the more modern chargers will not charge a flat battery as they cannot see enough voltage coming back to allow current flow, you need to connect a decent battery in parallel with flat battery to allow charging and then remove good battery as soon as flat battery has acquired some voltage of its own and charger is happy to carry on with its charging. 

A 5 amp charger like the CTEC-MXS-5.0 referred to in a previous post  is probably as much as you will ever need 99% of the time .

I regularly replace original equipment motorbike battery with AGM without a problem and enjoy the longer life, never had one fail because it was overcharged by the charging system designed for a flooded battery ( and motorbike charging systems can be very crude compared to a car ).  Modern car charging systems are better than the older ones that could boil a battery,  but still capable of pumping some serious amps into a battery,  AGM can take a charge faster than  a flooded battery but can suffer overcharging if charger settles onto a 'float' voltage that is too high ( most decent chargers will have a 'standard or 'AGM' switch,  but it is mainly to do with the float voltage the unit will select to 'trickle' or 'maintenance charge' the battery once main charging is over,  although most chargers will select 13.6 to 13.8 volts for float, which is safe for pretty much any battery.

Have a look at battery university website for good technical info on all sorts of batteries.

DON'T FORGET THAT WHEN CHARGING JAZZ STOP-START BATTERY THE NEGATIVE CLAMP NEEDS TO GO TO AN EARTH POINT ON CHASSIS NOT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY POST - THIS ALLOWS THE ELD SENSOR IN BATTERY CIRCUIT TO COUNT THE CHARGE GOING INTO BATTERY - IF YOU DON'T DO THIS THE BATTERY WILL BE FULLY CHARGED BUT THE BRAIN IN THE CAR WILL NOT BE AWARE HOW MUCH POWER HAS GONE INTO BATTERY.  The state of charge of stop-start battery uses 'coulomb counting'  - it measures what goes in and what comes back out via a current sensor,  if you connect to negative post the sensor is bypassed.  So leave the car wiring cables connected to battery when charging.

https://clubjazz.org/forum/index.php?topic=10836.msg76292#msg76292



Top post,10/10. thank you.

Plasma.

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