Clubjazz - Honda Jazz & HR-V Forums
Welcome => New Members => Topic started by: ianfiat on March 21, 2020, 01:21:32 PM
-
This morning I’ve taken the plunge and paid a deposit on a 2010 Honda Jazz 1.4 ES in red.
Looking forward to the delivery next week.
-
I’m sure you will not be disappointed smashing little cars.
Enjoy your purchase.
-
Hope it brings you many miles of safe and happy motoring. My wife and I were out in the car this morning and I just commented to her what a great wee car it has been. She had to agree. That's our ownership coming up to 4 years and 38,000 miles.
-
Hello and welcome. :)
-
Well it’s arrived, but with no handbook, anyone know where I can get one for a 2010 1.4 es.? A pdf would do
-
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/811004/Honda-Jazz.html?page=1#manual
This was produced in 2012. It should get you started until someone on here can come up with something better.
You can download it as a pdf.
I expect you can get one from a dealer at not too great a price.
-
Well it’s arrived, but with no handbook, anyone know where I can get one for a 2010 1.4 es.? A pdf would do
eBay has many.
-
Day 3 of Jazz ownership- flat battery
-
I got to Day 33. Replaced the battery and it has been great ever since.
-
Day 3 of Jazz ownership- flat battery
Probably original .
Mine is 8 years old ..ok so far.
Yaris d4d original battery lasted 11 years..
-
Day 3 of Jazz ownership- flat battery
Happened to me as well ;D, my own fault though. Replaced quickly with Yuasa 054 type (~£90 at Halfords) and it's perfect now. Could argue that it not only starts but runs better too!
-
Modern cars are harder on batteries than ever, electric power steering alone takes over 40 amps so a weak battery can throw up all sorts of problems.
Try Tayna battery for best price - Halfords charge about £15 fitting on top of the already eye-watering price they charge - this is a Yuasa Silver - the dogs dangly bits of batteries with a 5 year guarantee. Also note it is 40a/h instead of 35 standard OEM battery and 340CCA instead of 290.. ( in the same size package ) every little helps
https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/yuasa/ybx5054/?msclkid=542e2f36fb92173ed54272259fcd6b5b
Even though posts are described as 'normal' ( which I take to be SAE large posts ) mine arrived with JIS ( smaller Japanese posts _ and a split lead adapter collar on each post to allow it to fit 'standard' SAE terminals. You need Japanese posts for Jazz MK2.
-
Day 3 of Jazz ownership- flat battery
Happened to me as well ;D, my own fault though. Replaced quickly with Yuasa 054 type (~£90 at Halfords) and it's perfect now. Could argue that it not only starts but runs better too!
I changed battery twice in my 13 years of mk1 ownwership, both times I noticed it running better, I'd describe it as being more zippy, more willing and eager to rev quickly. I have also used Tayna batteries a few times, although I went against conventional clubjazz wisdom and went for Bosch instead of Yuasa, I found them to be excellent as well. As Culzean says, much cheaper than Halfords and a good service. Always handy to know.
-
Battery charged ok, so not a failed battery (I have a CTEK charger that checks battery health). Probably flat from sitting at the dealers for a few weeks followed by short journeys)
I don’t have the radio code card, so changing battery may be tricky, though with jump leads it should be possible to change the battery without interrupting the circuit...
-
Battery charged ok, so not a failed battery (I have a CTEK charger that checks battery health). Probably flat from sitting at the dealers for a few weeks followed by short journeys)
I don’t have the radio code card, so changing battery may be tricky, though with jump leads it should be possible to change the battery without interrupting the circuit...
Make up one of the attached kits ( see PDF photo attached ) , had this for years - you can even buy them complete IIRC.
Halfords sell plugs with flying lead for soldering, I used ones with screw terminals from Amazon IIRC
https://www.halfords.com/tools/fuses-electricals-and-fixings/electricals/halfords-fused-cigarette-lighter-plug-5-amp-208041.html
get a couple of wireable cigarette lighter plugs and a roll of cheap speaker cable - can get in rolls up to 20 meters . one core of speaker cable normally marked with a stripe, make sure to connect stripe core to centre terminal at each end to preserve polarity ( centre terminal is +12v ). Need a second vehicle - maybe a neigbours car - turn on ignition on both cars till radio comes on ( most cigarette lighter sockets not connected to power until ignition on aux 1 - don't turn past that on car you are changing battery on as you want least possible load on donor car and cable ) plug in to both ends and you can remove battery from one vehicle and keep power on - just make sure positive battery clamp on the vehicle you are changing does not contact bodywork or engine or you will blow fuse in donor vehicle that supplies cigarette lighter.... or the one in the cigarette plug if it has a fuse ( some do ).
-
all whilst staying 2m from your neighbour and not touching anything they touch.
-
Battery charged ok, so not a failed battery (I have a CTEK charger that checks battery health). Probably flat from sitting at the dealers for a few weeks followed by short journeys)
I don’t have the radio code card, so changing battery may be tricky, though with jump leads it should be possible to change the battery without interrupting the circuit...
Working on a battery in a tight place like a Jazz is tricky enough, but while trying to keep the large jump lead clips on the battery clamp it can be very difficult ( although you only need positive on battery clamp , can you can clip negative to earth on engine or body ) - the large clip gets in the way when trying to undo battery clamp ( and the positive clamp has a insulating cover over it ) - if the positive jump lead or battery clamp it is attached to touches anything metal under the bonnet there will be an almighty flash.... and if the jump lead clip falls off you have lost power to car electrics anyway, but as above if the jump lead clamp falls off and touches metal - bang...
At the moment the age of battery on your car is an unknown, and anyway it has possibly sat on a dealers forecourt in a low state of charge for a long time then it is damaged anyway ( sulphated ), no matter what the C-TEK says. Get a Yuasa silver from Tayna ( for under £60 delivered in a couple of days it is a steal ) and you will have peace of mind for a least 5 years and probably longer. I think punctures have replaced batteries as the roadside emergency service biggest call-out nowadays, but failed batteries are still high up on their list.
-
Just replaced the battery, and I can say without any doubt that the Honda Jazz has the worst battery clamp of any car I have ever owned.
Also from the state of the retaining bolts (seized solid) I’m guessing that many seasons have passed since the battery was changed!
-
Just replaced the battery, and I can say without any doubt that the Honda Jazz has the worst battery clamp of any car I have ever owned.
Also from the state of the retaining bolts (seized solid) I’m guessing that many seasons have passed since the battery was changed!
Problem with second hand cars is you are never sure how old the battery is, and if they are over 5 years old you need to assume original battery and you need to replace it - I write the fitted date and where I purchased it from on top of the battery ( on a label if battery is black ) to remind when it was fitted ( me or next owner ) - did you get a battery from Tayna in the end ?
Batteries degrade so slowly it is not really noticeable, but the capacity and ability to release power get less over the years even without abuse ( letting battery get flat etc. ) and as I said electrical power steering takes over 40 amps on its own, we have had people on here cure power steering problems and fault codes by replacing battery.
-
I ordered from Eurocarparts as they were offering quicker delivery. Next time it will be Tayna though, I have used them before
-
Another day, and battery flat again.
Lights and radio not switched on when left.
Any likely culprits for battery drain?
-
Interior light
Boot light.
Are the favourites...
Remove fuses from them for a few days and see what happens.. If it solves teh problem, you know where the problem lies.
I would start with the boot light...
-
Interior light
Boot light.
Are the favourites...
Remove fuses from them for a few days and see what happens.. If it solves teh problem, you know where the problem lies.
I would start with the boot light...
Yeah, boot light and sometimes glovebox light, both of which are not visible in normal circumstances, both take about half an amp ( 5 watts ) so unlikely to flatten a decent charged battery overnight, but if battery is low anyway could be the last straw... and 500mA parasitic drain is pretty big..
May be easier to remove bulb than to faff around in fusebox, and fuse may feed something else as well.
-
Wednesday (delivered) started ok
Thursday Flat battery
Charged over Friday (charger indicated full charge)
Saturday Started OK
Monday Flat battery
Wednesday fitted new battery
Thursday started OK
Friday started OK
Saturday started OK
Monday (today) Flat battery
Only used for short trips too (2 x 4 miles a day).
-
Have you actually got a value for the parasitic drain current ? I know you said your meter went out of range but then you replaced batteries in the meter.
a boot light will draw 0.5amps
an aircon clutch relay sticking about 3 amps
heated screen over 10 amps
The fact that new battery lasted 3 to 4 days would point to a small drain representing something like boot or glovebox 5 watt bulb ( draining about 12 A/h per day from battery ), as even the aircon relay ( 3 amps ) would easily drain battery in less than 12 hours. Check interior lights in car with key out and doors closed, would not be the first time a map light had been left on.
-
Just realised that I’d been taking out the ignition key in the I position rather than the 0 position- hopefully that has been the problem.
In other news, I have found the handbook in a compartment I didn’t know existed (under rear seat squab) including the radio key card!
-
Just realised that I’d been taking out the ignition key in the I position rather than the 0 position- hopefully that has been the problem.
In other news, I have found the handbook in a compartment I didn’t know existed (under rear seat squab) including the radio key card!
Not many people know that there is a security pocket under the nearside rear seat squab....
Taking the key out in wrong position may explain something, in aux1 the radio is still on, but there is another unmarked position between aux1 and '0' but there is no way I can remove key in any position except '0' - maybe the lock barrel or key is worn on your Jazz ...