Author Topic: ABS DTC code 51-1 & 61-1 fix  (Read 8313 times)


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ABS DTC code 51-1 & 61-1 fix
« on: April 30, 2017, 07:04:47 PM »
Hi All,
I just wanted to Post this somewhere to help out others as I couldn't find much of a help on the intertubes, but from what I do read is that it's a common problem that a lot of people are replacing the ABS Modulator (which isn't required) at great expense to sort out.

first, story:
ABS light came on after a long trip, I did an ECU diagnosis and got the combined ABS error codes of 51 & 61 (DTC 51-1 & 61).
All help on the interweb pointed to the ABS modulator (combined Pump, solenoids, and ABS ECU) being kaput. the modulator is located behind the right headlight.

So I consulted Honda and was told approx 1500 for the fix over the phone. So after weighing up writing off my Jazz, I looked online and found the cheapest new modulator was 350ish. thinking that this was still to rich and and thinking to myself that getting 2 faults at the same time (61-1 Battery Voltage & 51-1 ABS pump motor) I thought that it sounds awfully like a dodgy electrical connection.

TLDR - This is the fix(s). in varying order of difficulty.

1) Reseat the ABS plug
  A) disconnect the battery (this will reset the ECU as well (so win)
  B) locate the ABS modulator plug and lift the orange locking tab, this will start the plug coming out so just pull it out
      the rest of the way
  C) Clean the Pins as best you can.
  D) plug the ABS in again and connect the battery.
  E) when you turn the car on the ABS light will still be on, you must drive at least 10 meters in reverse and forward
      again to recalibrate the wheel speed sensors. (the light will go off)
  F) go for a test drive and see if the ABS light come on again. if not Win! Else see .2

2) Reseat the ABS ECU
  A) do 1A & 1B
  B) remove all the bolts holding the modulator to the car except the Brake lines ( if you are patient you can do this
      without removing the brake lines) though you will find it easier if you are willing to do a full brake fluid replacement
  C) remove the engine earth bracket above the modulator (makes it easier to manipulate around the Air-con pipe)
  D) remove the 4 little brass allenkey bolts attaching the ABS ECU to the modulator.
  E) pull back the ECU away from the Solenoids & pump unit (quite a way before it comes fully away, about 4cm)
  F) you will notice that there are 2 15mm spade terminals at the top and bottom of the solenoid block. these are the motor terminals. clean
      them well and carefully (its delicate in there) try to keep fluid and dust to a minimum.
  G) Clean the carefully disguised terminals on the CPU side as well.
  H) reassemble and complete step 1,D-F (though, you may just want to zip tie everything together while you test as
      part 3 is a bit more involved).

3) Re-solder dry Joints on the ECU. (you will need soldering iron, solder, and silicone adhesive) and prepare to be 12 hours without your car.
  A) complete steps 2 A-E.
  B) snap the clips holding the the lid on the ECU (don't worry they are pointless and get in the way)
  C) the ECU lid is siliconed on to the ECU so you will need several small flat head screwdrivers to prise the edges apart.
      prise out and down and then leave the driver in place to allow the silicone to let go a bit, this bit will take about an
      hour, try not to break the case.
  D) once you have the ECU board exposed. notice that it is covered in a waxy plastic coating.
  E) Reflow and resolder ALL of the large solder points (including all the pins for the Plug (right hand side), the Motor
      and the Solenoid drivers (around the edges). your soldering iron will melt through the wax coating but try not to
      damage it too much)
  F) apply silicone adhesive to the edges of the lid and use zip ties to secure the lid on while it drys.
  G) reassemble and complete step 1,D-F. (you may as well put it completely together because if this does't work you
      are probably in the gun for a new modulator anyway)

Anyway, this worked for me, I hope it works for you.
« Last Edit: April 30, 2017, 08:36:24 PM by MrBiz »


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Re: ABS DTC code 51-1 & 61-1 fix
« Reply #1 on: January 26, 2021, 09:59:52 AM »
ABS light came on a few days ago on my GD, and a bit of Googling brought me to this thread.

I tried #1 (as well as checking and cleaning all sensors) which didn't reset the light. 

Tried #2 and #3 and it's fixed!  Getting the unit apart was a challenge, and I used Sika 227 to bond it back together, clamped in a vice for several hours.

Thanks to the community and OP for this detailed solution (and saving me even having to buy a reader to pull the ABS codes!)

sparky Paul

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Re: ABS DTC code 51-1 & 61-1 fix
« Reply #2 on: January 26, 2021, 10:42:45 AM »
ABS modulator failure is a major headache on the mark 1, because of the cost of a replacement unit.

However, virtually all the 51-1 & 61-1 codes are either due to the dry joints described above, or worn out motor brushes on high miles cars. Both can be repaired for next to nothing with a bit of effort.


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Re: ABS DTC code 51-1 & 61-1 fix
« Reply #3 on: January 26, 2021, 10:55:03 AM »
I have used ECU Testing before to get an ABS module rebuilt and found them very good. They list Honda Jazz on their website. HTH  :D


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