Clubjazz - Honda Jazz & HR-V Forums
Honda Jazz Forums => Honda Jazz Mk4 2020 - => Topic started by: BigRon on August 27, 2020, 01:32:25 PM
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Just come back from the auto electrician who was going to fit the hardwire kit for my NextBase dash cams (front & rear) and there is a problem.
Apparently new Hondas and Renualts if you try to either tap into an existing connection or use one of the spare fuse spaces it will causes faults to be reported and possibly cause a total shutdown of the car.
To prevent this a canbus adapter is required to solve the issue. He said that this is becoming more and more the norm as manufacturers don't want independent auto electricians to install accessories.
I advised him that I had orginally made a booking with Halfords to do the work (10th September) to which he replied that Halfords had been passing this type of work to him once they realise the issue. Need to cancel Halford booking.
He is looking for a suitable canbus adapter and he will get back to me hopefully tomorrow.
Oh the joys of owning a new Honda.
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If there is a canbus adapter, that's good. But I was thinking possibilities to remain undetected by the car systems. If the dashcam is powered from the same fuse as 12 V accessory outlet there is no way the system knows if it's the dashcam or some device plugged in to the outlet.
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You may be right but I have a horrible feeling that the canbus systems are getting smarter all the time.
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If there is a canbus adapter, that's good. But I was thinking possibilities to remain undetected by the car systems. If the dashcam is powered from the same fuse as 12 V accessory outlet there is no way the system knows if it's the dashcam or some device plugged in to the outlet.
+1
I agree, the Canbus system, has 'nodes' that control individual bits of equipment that communicate with the controller modules via a two core bus cable, the power can be supplied in same cable ( 4 core with two heavier power conductors and two light data cores ) or a separate cable. If you plug something into 12v power that comes from battery and not via the controller the system will not know what is plugged in as there is no data cable to controller from the device. CAN bus compatible on LED bulbs purely means that the LED has to draw the same current as the filament bulb it replaces or the node supplying the bulb will see too little current and think bulb has blown, - normally a resistor in parallel with LED does the trick, some LED bulbs sold as CANbus compatible have a resistor built in.
LED bulbs have constant current power supplies built in ( LED works on current not voltage ) some cheaper LED bulbs without filters can introduce interference into the system though, which may affect CANbus data transfer, so some CANbus compatible bulbs can have extra filtering in them as well as a resistor.
Interesting piece
http://blog.ecobd2.com/tech-support/automotive-can-bus-system-explained-instruction-diagnosis/
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But the Aux power socket will power anything from a phone charger to a tyre pump/compressor so I don't see how it can be on the Canbus system.
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My Nextbase dashcam has been happily using the 12V socket. However, that socket has no power when the vehicle is switched off whereas a hardwired camera could have a permanent supply which might be what could upset the vehicle if it constitutes an unknown power drain.
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My Nextbase dashcam has been happily using the 12V socket.
As does mine. Plus the Garmin and GPS speedometer. Not that mine has Canbus. It uses wet string and cloth-covered cable.
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Any hardwiring of my dash cams has always been on a switched supply since I am now retired and don't use the car every day. At the moment my dash cams are powered by the power socket next to the USB sockets, might have consider running that cable behind door pillar cover and headliner but I do prefer the hardwired route.
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It could be hardwired to the rear of the power socket.
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That's how it was done by my dealer on my last Honda which I didn't know about but they are not keen on doing it this time and I think it means that the centre console would need to be dismantled to get to the back of the power socket.
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That's how it was done by my dealer on my last Honda which I didn't know about but they are not keen on doing it this time and I think it means that the centre console would need to be dismantled to get to the back of the power socket.
So can the electrician connect to the cable between the fuse and the socket assuming that the power relay is between the battery and the fuse)?
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Not keen on the idea of splicing into any cables as if anything went wrong with the electrics, Honda would more than likely point at the splicing and void the eletrical warranty.
If the connections at the back of the power socket is by 2 spade connectors then the use of piggy back connectors would solve the issue of splicing BUT in order to get to the back of the power socket means stripping out the whole centre console (had a look earlier this afternoon and it will not be an easy job).
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Is it possible to piggy-back on the fuse for the aux socket using something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Circuit-Piggy-Back-Standard-Blade-Holder/dp/B017O0QHZU ?
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Is it possible to piggy-back on the fuse for the aux socket using something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Circuit-Piggy-Back-Standard-Blade-Holder/dp/B017O0QHZU ?
I am still waiting to hear from the auto electrician but from our conversation on Thursday the answer would seem to be no. The piggy backs shown on the amazon website are identical to what is supplied as part of the NextBase hardwire kit.
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My Nextbase 522 (front and rear) is hardwired via a piggyback connector and was fitted by a qualified auto electrician
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My Nextbase 522 (front and rear) is hardwired via a piggyback connector and was fitted by a qualified auto electrician
What did the auto electrician charge to fit the hardwire kit.
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I'm interested in this.
On other Hondas the under dash fusebox has an 'option connecter' socket. If this Jazz also has this socket then wiring in a dashcam and SatNav will be a breeze.
On my Civic I currently have my dashcam wired to Ign Pos 2 and my Garmin to Ign Pos 1.
Here is the connector on my 9G Civic with the 2 wires:
(https://i.imgur.com/LlPVIP9.jpg)
Anyone got a photo of the 2020 Jazz fusebox ?
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Mk4 Jazz has a similar accessory connector as Kremmen mentions.
It is a 4 pin connector in the front face of the underdash fusebox, right hand side above the fuses.
Pin 1 is a battery +supply (need to put a suitable sized fuse in position 36 of fusebox (15A))
Pin 2 is Reverse +supply
Pin 3 is Acc position +supply
Pin 4 is Ignition +supply
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If there is a canbus adapter, that's good. But I was thinking possibilities to remain undetected by the car systems. If the dashcam is powered from the same fuse as 12 V accessory outlet there is no way the system knows if it's the dashcam or some device plugged in to the outlet.
+1
I agree, the Canbus system, has 'nodes' that control individual bits of equipment that communicate with the controller modules via a two core bus cable, the power can be supplied in same cable ( 4 core with two heavier power conductors and two light data cores ) or a separate cable. If you plug something into 12v power that comes from battery and not via the controller the system will not know what is plugged in as there is no data cable to controller from the device. CAN bus compatible on LED bulbs purely means that the LED has to draw the same current as the filament bulb it replaces or the node supplying the bulb will see too little current and think bulb has blown, - normally a resistor in parallel with LED does the trick, some LED bulbs sold as CANbus compatible have a resistor built in.
LED bulbs have constant current power supplies built in ( LED works on current not voltage ) some cheaper LED bulbs without filters can introduce interference into the system though, which may affect CANbus data transfer, so some CANbus compatible bulbs can have extra filtering in them as well as a resistor.
Interesting piece
http://blog.ecobd2.com/tech-support/automotive-can-bus-system-explained-instruction-diagnosis/
I remember my old Clio wirings...
Black wire = earth or negative pole.
Red wire = +12v directly connected to battery
Yellow wire = +12v aftet ignition
Couple of crossed wires = CAN-H and CAN-L data cables.
I found a TPMS ECU for Renault Clio, put it under the passenger seat and made a power+data cable with a sort of rj45 plug to connect it with the car: cut and solder black and yellow wire, cut and solder two other cables from a couple of crossed can cables. After a reconfiguration, it worked fine...
To me it's strange to hear that in new cars power cables are electrically checked by canbus: surely if you touch a canbus data cable the car will show lots of alarms, but +12v cables, mmmhhh.
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Anyone got a photo of the 2020 Jazz fusebox ?
Here there is the installation manual of a electric towbar wiring kit, you should find where to plug a wire to gain +12v.
http://catalogue.ecs-electronics.nl/?search=HN-737-DX
HondaKarma posted the fitting manual for the footlight, with some pictures of the fusebox and where to plug the connector (where is hondakarma?)
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Steve_m has given me the solution I was looking for so the new Jazz is back on my next car list.
I can understand a modern canbus detecting a piggyback and protecting itself from overload. The option connector is just that, a separate area of the fusebox for just what the dashcam query relates to, adding an optional accessory.
Getting the correct plug is another matter, the Civic ones come from a Japanese third party reseller. However, it should be possible to use shielded 2mm crimp connectors on the pins ala Civic till the plug can be sourced.
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Anyone got a photo of the 2020 Jazz fusebox ?
Here there is the installation manual of a electric towbar wiring kit, you should find where to plug a wire to gain +12v.
HondaKarma posted the fitting manual for the footlight, with some pictures of the fusebox and where to plug the connector (where is hondakarma?)
Tried to log onto HondaKarma but there appears to be a problem, parent company seems to have gone into administration, do you have a copy the fitting manual for the footlight and pictures of the fusebox.
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The footlights would need a pin that becomes live when the doors are open and the Jazz option connector only has 4 pins as listed by Steve_m
For a dashcam you ideally need the ignition + supply as the acc + supply can be a quick make/break connection when the starter motor kicks in which often confuses them.
I'm not intending to change till at least March so plenty of time to wait for more info.
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do you have a copy the fitting manual for the footlight and pictures of the fusebox.
yep.
Give me your email address by pm and I will send it.
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If I can get a picture of the fusebox I can check with the Honda third party supplier whether they do the option connector.
He thinks that it may be identical to the latest CRV option connector that is also a 4 pin job.
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This connector is used to feed +12v to the trailer blinkers ecu on a 1.3 GK. Unfortunately there is no code...
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I reckon it's that socket to the left of the one used in that image. That one looks like a 4 pin.
I need a photo to send off to get his guess.
Given the MK4 is fairly new I don't suppose many have had time to do a contortion act with a camera yet. Something like my photo above but with the socket empty would be perfect.
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Given the MK4 is fairly new I don't suppose many have had time to do a contortion act with a camera yet. Something like my photo above but with the socket empty would be perfect.
Ya, I will provide it ASAP.
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Still haven't heard back from the autoelectrian who advised that there would be a problem with the CANbus system when connecting to a free fuse slot in the fusebox even though I called him at the start of this week.
Found by accident another autoelectrician company locally who basically say the fist autoelectrician is talking a load of b****.
Here's part of one of their emails;-
There should never be a problem with a dash camera installation affecting any network in the vehicle, whether that be CANBus or LINbus - wiring a 12V accessory (any accessory) into the vehicles fuse box either off an empty fuse slot or a non safety critical fuse slot using fuse adaptors should never cause any interference to anything but DAB - CANbus is a method of system communication between modules in a vehicle, it's not something you wire a dash camera into. Why would taking a 12V power feed and finding an earth interfere with CAN? Probably a question to ask your auto electrician, would be interested to know the answer he/she has in response to that. As with anything, if there is any problems, no customer leaves until they are completely happy.
Going to contact them next week to arrange a time and date for installation, they also do a mobile service.
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Connect at the Option connector A in this image - It is a 4 pin connector in the front face of the underdash fusebox, right hand side above the fuses.
Pin 1 is a battery +supply (need to put a suitable sized fuse in position 36 of fusebox (15A))
Pin 2 is Reverse +supply
Pin 3 is Acc position +supply
Pin 4 is Ignition +supply
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@Steve_m are the option connector plugs available from dealers separately or as part of an approved accessory only ?
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It was hard but I managed to take some pics, this is the best.
Italian Jazz, 1.3 16v mk3 so steering wheel on the left of the car.
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Thanks, I'll forward it on Monday and see what he says.
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It was hard but I managed to take some pics, this is the best.
Italian Jazz, so steering wheel on the left of the car.
Is the picture of the fusebox from a 4th gen Jazz as I have tried to match the picture up with fuseboxes shown in the 4th gen owners handbook i.e. position and numbers of the various fuses (10A, 15A, 20A etc)?
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@Steve_m are the option connector plugs available from dealers separately or as part of an approved accessory only ?
No, the connector is not available separately, you would have to buy an accessory that used the option connector as part of its connection wiring harness. e.g front fog lights
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It was hard but I managed to take some pics, this is the best.
Italian Jazz, so steering wheel on the left of the car.
Is the picture of the fusebox from a 4th gen Jazz as I have tried to match the picture up with fuseboxes shown in the 4th gen owners handbook i.e. position and numbers of the various fuses (10A, 15A, 20A etc)?
Good point, the image posted by Steve_m is also different from the supplied photo
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Just had another look at the fusebox layout in the 4th gen owners manual and if using the Nextbase hardwire kit or similar it should be an easy install with no issues except that you have to be a contortionist.
The front accessory power socket is fuse 29 (20A) using the appropriate piggy back fuse connector from the kit, transfer the 20A fuse to the piggy back connector and then install the connector into fuse position 29 in the fusebox.
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It was hard but I managed to take some pics, this is the best.
Italian Jazz, so steering wheel on the left of the car.
Is the picture of the fusebox from a 4th gen Jazz as I have tried to match the picture up with fuseboxes shown in the 4th gen owners handbook i.e. position and numbers of the various fuses (10A, 15A, 20A etc)?
No, I'm sorry, now I've realized that this thread is about the mk4, my pic is about a 2017 1.3 mk3.
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Jazz MK3 is an 8 pin connector whilst the MK4 is a 4 pin.
First photo will help.
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Jazz MK3 is an 8 pin connector whilst the MK4 is a 4 pin.
First photo will help.
My Gk3 has two free connectors, one 8pin (the one I would use for footlights) and another one, 4 pins, the one I would plug to feed the trailer light ecu.
A wiring scheme would be very useful...
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The option connector plug for the MK3 is available.
I don't know the exact pinouts but a multimeter will reveal all. The common pins are:
Permanent power
Ign pos 1
Ign pos 2
Reverse selected
Door open
Lights on
If there is enough demand I can ask the supplier, with forum permission, to create a thread here. He currently supplies connector plugs for:
Civic 8G, 9G, 10G, CRV, Jazz MK3
I'm still looking for a closeup of the MK4 fusebox.
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So, is there a way to hardwire a dascham to the fusebox. I currently have a DOD dashcam hardwired to my fusebox. I am looking into buying a CrossStar.
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Yes, via the option connector pins as mentioned above. That's what that or those pins are for. They don't interfere with any other circuit.
As steve_m posted, there is an ACC and a IGN pin. On my Civic I've got my dashcam wired to IGN and my Garmin wired to ACC. Never had any problems and the option connector feature, although different pin layouts, is common to all recent Hondas.
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If I have my dashcam hooked up to a fuse now. To what pins do I connect my current cables if I want my camera to record 24 hours per day. Do I need an adapter?
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It depends on what cam and hardwire kit you have.
Some hardwire kits have 3 wires. One goes to permanent power, one to IGN power and the other to earth.
When the IGN is turned on the cam switches from 'parking mode' to full record. When you turn the ignition off, after a preset time, usually just a few minutes it switches back to parking mode.
These hardwire kits tend to have a battery voltage detector so if they start to drain too much they turn off.
If you look earlier in this thread steve_m has listed the option connector pins and permanent power and IGN and/or ACC is in there as well.
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Finally got my Nextbase front and rear cams installed yesterday by a local autoelectrician, they hardwired the cams through a spare fuse in the fusebox.
Asked them to photograph the fusebox which they did and I am waiting for them to email the pics, will post it when they arrive.
While talking to them they said that all wiring must not crossover any airbags. This is especially true for the power cable, if it crosses over the A pillar airbag when the airbags deploy the force will rip the front cam off the windscreen and is liable to cause serious injury.
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Correct, you need to be careful with the A pillar wiring. Mine is up the gap between the pillar and the door rubber.
Never poke it behind the plastic A pillar cover.
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Mk4 Fusebox images.
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If you go back to post #29, page 2, by steve_m can you get a shot of the connector socket marked 'A', front on.
If I can get a good shot of the 4 pin connector I can see if the third party option connector supplier has them.
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The photos were taken by the autoelectrician when he was installing the hardwire kit not by myself so sorry not able to get more taken.
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If you go back to post #29, page 2, by steve_m can you get a shot of the connector socket marked 'A', front on.
If I can get a good shot of the 4 pin connector I can see if the third party option connector supplier has them.
The second image is the option connector that I described in my previous posts.
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Ah, right, couldn't make out the pins.
I think he'll want a square on shot showing them. I've asked him exactly what he wants as he just said it wasn't what he needed. Not exactly a helpful reply from him.
Watch this space ......
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-- No longer applicable --
Modified
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Hello
I found finished option coupler from Amazon Japan for FIT E:HEV GR3
But this coupler can by sent only to japanese address so if someone intrested to buy one should use company that can forward from Japan.
https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/Removal-Optional-Coupler-Recorder-Accessories/dp/B085MSF43B/ref=pd_sbs_263_2/357-8155477-3759727?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B085MSF43B&pd_rd_r=b42aae5f-50c9-489a-85ef-8025a21431af&pd_rd_w=OSiTJ&pd_rd_wg=WxlNi&pf_rd_p=4acc31d7-eae8-4ee9-8e37-275fb9bc20c2&pf_rd_r=MZPYA9V9HDF4DBRE18BB&psc=1&refRID=MZPYA9V9HDF4DBRE18BB#customerReviews (https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/Removal-Optional-Coupler-Recorder-Accessories/dp/B085MSF43B/ref=pd_sbs_263_2/357-8155477-3759727?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B085MSF43B&pd_rd_r=b42aae5f-50c9-489a-85ef-8025a21431af&pd_rd_w=OSiTJ&pd_rd_wg=WxlNi&pf_rd_p=4acc31d7-eae8-4ee9-8e37-275fb9bc20c2&pf_rd_r=MZPYA9V9HDF4DBRE18BB&psc=1&refRID=MZPYA9V9HDF4DBRE18BB#customerReviews)
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What you've found isn't the option connector but some small shielded crimp connectors, as I mentioned in a possible solution higher up..
You can make them yourself.
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It`s have connector
but they post bad image - overexposed so connector itself wanished
(https://i.ibb.co/pZS02z2/312zk-JTHfr-L-AC-corrected-light.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
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I'd love a closeup of that connector to see which of my images, if any, it resembles
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I ordered it.
Will post image when get it
I think it`s similar to first pic that you post
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Finaly my order arrived !!!
Now ordering from Japan if this not Amazon slightly problematic because of COVID
Used Zenmarket.jp for forwarding orders.
As i promised i posting images of cables with connector
(https://i.ibb.co/R9sJqzP/20201122-235557.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PNPVdw4)
(https://i.ibb.co/HCqS8mq/20201123-000023.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0Kr7bPr)
(https://i.ibb.co/VqpbNCs/20201123-003456.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hm1rMdS)
(https://i.ibb.co/0Kcz8d5/20201123-003449.jpg) (https://ibb.co/C6zSNTL)
Another one with option to plug some aditional equpment that may by already connected to plug we need
(https://i.ibb.co/cxnmJcV/20201122-235553.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DL2q4DT)
Both cables come with fuse and instructions
(https://i.ibb.co/GRW48Pp/20201122-235650.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CQb3Y08)
(https://i.ibb.co/pzxw6wG/20201122-235719.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vPHqCqg)
(https://i.ibb.co/zfpY8bw/20201122-235659.jpg) (https://ibb.co/x5W0mGQ)
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And for DIY dash cam instalation excellent video from youtube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i68GMLn4D2c&list=LL&index=36&t=91s (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i68GMLn4D2c&list=LL&index=36&t=91s)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u2tUaiWb6Y0&list=LL&index=35 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u2tUaiWb6Y0&list=LL&index=35)
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Thanks for those photos.
Which one of those plugs into the option connector socket as highlighted by Steve_M on page 2 as socket A ?
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Both plugs for socket A, ordered 2 different models from different shops, one with 2 plugs used for cars with original equpment connected to socket A
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Nearly there .....
I've sent him this as the socket A plug:
(https://i.imgur.com/Ao7UhM1.jpg)
What is needed now is a photo of as much of the fusebox as possible but ideally a closeup of the socket A:
(https://i.imgur.com/9COVt2H.jpg)
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I m looking at the Nextbase 222x or 322. Is it true that it has a small battery inside so even if the car is off, it will come on if someone hits your car? Or does it has to hardwired to live fuse like hazard warning light? Many thanks for your clarification.
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The Nextbase series 2 dash cam battery only has about 15 minutes running time available. I have a 322 hardwired through the ignition on so that is only works with the engine on.
I believe that it has the technology not to rundown the battery if you have it hardwired to an always live feed.
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I had my Nextbase 512G set to trigger on shock (car bumped when parked). The problem is these files are locked to prevent overwriting, and potholes and the like can also result in files being locked too. Unless you reformat the card at regular intervals, you end up with the entire card (or most of it locked). I ended up down to 20 minutes recording before it started to overwrite. I only found this out when I tried to view an incident that happened an hour earlier!
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I've added a Nextbase 322 and a rear cam fitted to the side of it ( just on the passenger side of the mirror)- so no need to run a wire through to the back hatch. So far I've been quite impressed with the quality of the front and rear cam (the latter giving a very similar view to the rear mirror ). But if you have rear passengers that will restrict the view a little.
I've used the suction pad so I could be sure that I had the right position
I haven't hard wired yet and may not bother since its very easy to hide all of the wiring just along the windscreen edge, door rubber and then under the door seal and eventually behind the glove box coming through to the 12v socket - so really I'm not aware of the wiring. In a Crosstar with 2 USB's its not likely I'll need the 12v accessory whilst driving.
It is worth mentioning that a good quality U3 64gb SD card did not work very well and unfortunately I had to buy a Nextbase one which is somewhat more expensive but does work efficiently. Several other people have reported this problem in online reviews.
I've noticed that there are currently some good offers this week at Halfords or at Nextbase, especially the latter if you want to add the side rear cam as well.
If you set up the camera in the controls it does indeed have a very small battery in it which should record a parked car incident.
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I've added a Nextbase 322 and a rear cam fitted to the side of it ( just on the passenger side of the mirror)- so no need to run a wire through to the back hatch. So far I've been quite impressed with the quality of the front and rear cam (the latter giving a very similar view to the rear mirror ). But if you have rear passengers that will restrict the view a little.
I've used the suction pad so I could be sure that I had the right position
I haven't hard wired yet and may not bother since its very easy to hide all of the wiring just along the windscreen edge, door rubber and then under the door seal and eventually behind the glove box coming through to the 12v socket - so really I'm not aware of the wiring. In a Crosstar with 2 USB's its not likely I'll need the 12v accessory whilst driving.
It is worth mentioning that a good quality U3 64gb SD card did not work very well and unfortunately I had to buy a Nextbase one which is somewhat more expensive but does work efficiently. Several other people have reported this problem in online reviews.
I've noticed that there are currently some good offers this week at Halfords or at Nextbase, especially the latter if you want to add the side rear cam as well.
If you set up the camera in the controls it does indeed have a very small battery in it which should record a parked car incident.
Appreciate Cobb2 for the information. Looks like I might have to get the Nextbase SD card. But I will need to hardwired because my 12v is needed for my Garmin dashcam which also has a rear revising camera as I m driving a GE MK2.
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I've had 3 Nextbase models 402, 412 and 380. I was never fully happy with any of them. The main issue being the vibration caused over less than perfect roads with the ball joint mount. Plus hanging down on a stalk never impressed me.
I never had any battery issues but some have according to the Dashcamtalk site.
After a lot of research I got a Viofo A119 V2 and subsequently a V3. They are superb little discrete cameras. Never had a single issue, plus they are supercapacitor.
The V3 now has QuadHD @ 60fps. Here is a download link to a sample of mine at 2560x1440P 60fps:
>> Krem Viofo A119 V3 sample << (https://www.dropbox.com/s/wjucpqdnuonwvuo/Krem%20Viofo%20Sample.MP4?dl=1)
(https://i.imgur.com/gMqfNDE.jpg?1)
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Looks good. Slightly higher definition than my Nextbase 512G, seen here.
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I ran my Nextbase dashcams without realising the vibration issue. It was only after reading other posts and looking at the stationary parked windscreen wipers 'video vibrating' and closely looking at how it affected the overall footage I changed.
Initially I went for the Nextbase 380 but the resolution was lower and it has no method of attaching a CPL. Enter the Viofo with a good solid mount, discrete and a dedicated CPL.
Proper Job, and cheaper than Nextbase.
I posted my raw file because the likes of YouTube compress the footage and make it look worse than it is.
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Im not sure what garmin dash cam you have Drive 123! but I have hardwired a garmin 55 dash cam into another car. This is very small compared to many cameras and this model has the advantage of various driver alerts such as going over speed limits and speed camera warnings. This runs very well on a normal SanDisk SD card.
It is possible to get a 12v accessory splitter into a double socket but it can be a bit cumbersome, or alternatively a single plug with a lead that converts into a double socket which could be hidden.
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Im not sure what garmin dash cam you have Drive 123! but I have hardwired a garmin 55 dash cam into another car. This is very small compared to many cameras and this model has the advantage of various driver alerts such as going over speed limits and speed camera warnings. This runs very well on a normal SanDisk SD card.
It is possible to get a 12v accessory splitter into a double socket but it can be a bit cumbersome, or alternatively a single plug with a lead that converts into a double socket which could be hidden.
I actually have the Garmin NuviCam and Driveassits 51 which are Satnav but also has a dashcam. They are good but unfortunately as I have to remove it every night, I don't have a park function and so i have been hit and run when it was parked.
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Has anyone who’s had dashcams installed managed to install a rear one on the rear window?
Had a Thinkware F800 pro installed today and the auto electrician who did it was very downbeat about the cable routing for the rear cam.
His exact words were “anything is possible, but the way your car is set up it could easily add 2-3 hours labour to the job because of the lack of trim around the top of the window which usually hides the cable”
“I could spend all afternoon stripping the car down if you want, but it’ll be your money you’d be burning through”.
I went down the route of front camera only in the end.
Anyone had any success in mounting a rear cam on their Mk4 Jazz????
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If you're not too bothered about a 2ch system then maybe another 1ch if you have a boot power socket
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I have a rear camera installed, the camera is bolted to the rear parcel shelf, using 2 holes drilled into the suction housing.
The cable is then routed across the rear shelf, down behind the offside rear seat, then under the rear footwell carpet and up into the centre cubby box, into the rear power socket.
If I need to remove the shelf for any reason, then the cable simply unplugs from the camera, obviously the camera can’t then be used, in this situation.
As others have said, it would be very difficult to stick the camera to the rear screen and route the cable under the headlining, this method is I think a compromise.
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Sounds like a great workaround. As they say, "Necessity.................."
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Had a good poke about the Jazz today.
How do you get to the fusebox ? I got on hands and knees and looked up but couldn't see it.
Does that lower black panel clip off ?
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Access is just from below the dash looking up, there are no un-clipable covers. The panel that houses the switches can be unbolted/unclipped to gain further access, but are all secured with fixings due to the knee airbag.
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You all have me worried now, I have a Nextbase dashcam I was hoping Halfords could hardwire it as they did in my Renault.
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I intend using the option connector socket.
I need to wire my dashcam onto the IGN pin and wire in a female power socket to the ACC pin for my Garmin DS61.
Sounds like a challenge.
Having read posts about Halfords they tend to use fuse piggyback connectors that are often wired to incompatible fuses.
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In Halfords today, they said that they do not do Hybrids.
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In Halfords today, they said that they do not do Hybrids.
Pray tell, what is the reason for not fitting to a Hybrid?
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They did not give a reason but the young man who was given the job looked terrified.. ;)
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It can be daunting wiring in a dashcam properly.
The long wire needs routing up the A pillar, away from a deploying airbag, inside the headliner to the passenger side of the interior mirror, roof console.
Then it needs to be away from any circuit that is affected by stop/start. Fuse piggyback is often fraught with problems.
Honda do provide an accessory socket in the fusebox but then don't sell the plug to use it. I've used this accessory socket on my Civic for both a dashcam and a secondary Garmin DS61 and it works well. I managed to source the Civic plug from a third party.
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The Honda dealer fitted my nextbase dashcam on the day I took delivery of the Jazz. I’d mentioned the dashcam while ordering the car and the sales executive offered to have the dealership technicians fit it.
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Got any photos of where they fitted it and how well they concealed the wires.
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None I’m afraid, the only section of wire showing is from the headlining to the dashcam.
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My local Honda dealer is going to fit mine on Friday, not cheap but hey at least I will have Honda support.
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All done, a very professional job...... :)
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I instaled my dashcam by purchasing a 4m long cable and routing it down the door rubber inder the passenger seat and just pluged it in the usb socket in the rear. Works fine and turns off when the ignition is off. Very essy and doesent compromise any guarantee. The car doesent know what is pluged in the usb.
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All done, a very professional job...... :)
Care to let us know how much they charged for fitting the Dash Cam?
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It was £119 but did include the £35 fixing kit, not cheap I know but I did not want to mess up my new car.
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It was £119 but did include the £35 fixing kit, not cheap I know but I did not want to mess up my new car.
Is the fixing kit a Honda part? If so does it have a part number on the invoice please?
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It's a Nextbase part, the camera maker.
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I posted my in stock hardwire connector in the wrong thread :
https://clubjazz.org/forum/index.php?topic=13454.msg103432#msg103432
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I'll also try and get my dealer to help as I need some other pointers.
My thoughts are that now I have the option connector plug that the dashcam hardwire kit goes on the IGN pin. The dealer tech will know how the panel comes off by the fusebox to allow better access.
Then the hopefully clever bit ...... I've ordered the black cupholders so I'll get the dealer to swap the left one but just remove the right one.
I will then try and take the white trim off the right one, keeping the new black one in stock, and attach a flat crafted piece of 5mm plastic to the top of the cup holder and attach a Garmin mount :
(https://i.imgur.com/t9YcsFv.jpg)
I can then wire the Garmin DS61 to the fusebox ACC pin with the wire dropping behind the unit, through the adapted cup holder.
The Garmin PND will give me the traffic display I want for the whole route. Just a shame the built in Garmin doesn't allow a Smartlink connection to display their digital traffic as it works perfectly.
This is the same strategy as my current Civic and works without issue.
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[quoteauthor=Kenneve link=topic=12345.msg97521#msg97521 date=1617902854]
I have a rear camera installed, the camera is bolted to the rear parcel shelf, using 2 holes drilled into the suction housing.
The cable is then routed across the rear shelf, down behind the offside rear seat, then under the rear footwell carpet and up into the centre cubby box, into the rear power socket.
If I need to remove the shelf for any reason, then the cable simply unplugs from the camera, obviously the camera can’t then be used, in this situation.
As others have said, it would be very difficult to stick the camera to the rear screen and route the cable under the headlining, this method is I think a compromise.
[/quote]
Sorry Kenneve
I’ve made a hash of this posting I’ve lost all my typing etc but at least the photos have made it this is the fixing on our jazzes and they have been in use for almost a year now the disc is a self adhesive one with suction cap fitted to sticky side firmly pressed to make a secure fix,then shiny side up it is slid under the plastic edges making sure the e£ges catch the adhesive side this ensures no further movement.
I am obviously not to good at this adding quotes from other folk.
The cable is from central consul power supply then fed under rear footwell carpet and up beneath the side covering under the roof lining and then out to camera. See piccys.
But I hope this will give anyone who wishes to try it some ideas.
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[attachment deleted by admin]
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https://clubjazz.org/forum/index.php?topic=12345.msg102585#msg102585
Has anyone taken the panel off that houses the under dash switches ?
I'm hoping to get better fusebox access to route and secure the dashcam wire and transformer.
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Eyes down, look in, dashcam hardwire :
1) Take the panel off to get better fusebox access.
It is a bit fragile so use trim tools.
(https://i.imgur.com/ydraQO2.jpg)
2) Here is the back so you can see where the clips are :
(https://i.imgur.com/Ivu5oQ8.jpg)
3) The inside :
(https://i.imgur.com/4TEPvdH.jpg)
4) After a lot of head scratching I decided to double sided sticky the hardwire transformer. It's rock solid :
(https://i.imgur.com/vYtMmWu.jpg)
5) This is the 'option connector' in place. It clicked in and locked nicely (no piggybacking fuses needed) :
(https://i.imgur.com/rP6FzLp.jpg)
6) Find a good earth, where a multimeter is invaluable :
(https://i.imgur.com/UkacIXM.jpg)
7) Found that the silver bracket is good, this is a WIP shot before being bolted on :
(https://i.imgur.com/73d5NUr.jpg)
8 ) I wired in my Garmin DS61 as I wanted Garmin's Live Traffic and not keen on using a phone.
Test Garmin :
(https://i.imgur.com/4JDByDR.jpg)
9) Test Dashcam :
(https://i.imgur.com/A6U4ufX.jpg)
Perfect.
So, what happens is that when I turn on ACC or ON the Garmin fires up. The dashcam only fires up when the system is ON, ACC does nothing.
10) And all back together :
(https://i.imgur.com/yPNw1iJ.jpg)
I decided to put the Garmin on the dash, behind the vent, as it's away from airbag deploy.
(https://i.imgur.com/eYGViZV.jpg)
Proper Job :)
kremsearch
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@Kremmen where did you get the option connector from?
I need to fit our dashcam at some point.
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I ordered mine from the link Roman provided further up this thread, post #53
Unfortunately that seller doesn't post to the UK so I had to use ZenMarket who purchase then post. Takes a few weeks but it eventually arrived in just under a month.
However, I did spot the same connector on Amazon.jp and that seemed to post to the UK.
I'll see if I can find it again but it wasn't easy. Search terms need to be 2021 Fit GR3.
What I can say is that the connector is performing flawlessly with no drop outs or fluctuations with engine stop/start. Both my dashcam and Garmin PND are working perfectly.
Found it :
https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/Optional-Coupler-Recorder-Footlight-Accessories/dp/B085MSF43B/ref=sr_1_304?dchild=1&keywords=%E3%83%9B%E3%83%B3%E3%83%80%E3%83%95%E3%82%A3%E3%83%83%E3%83%88g+3&qid=1632888616&sr=8-304
Still can't find any way to get the black cup holders from Japan, Honda EU (Bracknell) blocked the dealer order even though they are on the dealer system with a UK price.
"Not for the European market" !!!
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Brilliant thanks, I’ve just ordered it from Amazon Japan.
Probably costs slightly more at £24, but it saves faffing with piggy back fuses.
One other question, do I have to put a new fuse in anywhere?
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One other question, do I have to put a new fuse in anywhere?
Fuse position 36 in the under dash fusebox is the power for the option connector. You would most like have to install a fuse.
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To add to Steve's post.
I didn't have to do anything to any fuses as I only used the 2 red wires which are :
ACC - used for the Garmin PND
IGN - used for the dashcam
Then of course you need to connect the dashcam ground wire to, erm, ground
You only need the additional fuse if you're going to use the main purple power wire, which for a dashcam you won't need if it's just a 2 wire hardwire kit like mine.
For a 3 wire hardwire kit you will need purple and a fuse in pos 36:
(https://i.imgur.com/LTrjAQz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LMGkfMy.jpg)
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Brilliant thanks, yeah it’s just the 2 wire kit.
Admin need to duplicate part of this post and make it a sticky.
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I'm happy to answer any questions as I've done it.
Just take care taking off the panel. Most of the clips are into a solid socket but the left centre one clips into the panel to its left so wobbles and needs extra care, off and on.
Also, the 3 connectors just slide out once you've found each ones locking tab that just needs squeezing in.
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Update :
After realising I'd positioned mine too close to the centre cowl I've repositioned :
I've got a wide 140° Viofo so this originally happened :
I've repositioned whilst checking the minimum distance and it's :
(https://i.imgur.com/y2mEBmd.jpg)
6cm from the cowl
(https://i.imgur.com/G54uzOK.jpg)
Proper Job !
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Not sure if it matters but that purple wire is marked "reverse" in katakana. It is probably power for a rear facing camera to help when backing. It is a very common feature here as everyone backs into parking spaces all the time rather than driving in and backing out.
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Yes that wire becomes 12v active when you select reverse.