Hill starts and Biting Point

[Century21]

I've had my 54 Jazz for three weeks now and I'm still finding it difficult to figure out where the biting point is for the clutch pedal causing me to stall at lights or junctions every now and then.  This makes relatively steep hill starts a nightmare as I have the poor thing revving like crazy to haul itself up the hill. 
Is this normal, or do you think my car has a clutch problem?   

I should point out I am not mechanically minded 

[guest1521]

To check if your clutch is worn out ('slipping') - on level road, pull your handbrake on firmly, engage first/low gear, rev to around 1200 rpm and let the clutch slowly and smoothly out.

If your handbrake is holding firmly... as the clutch reaches its biting point, revs should immediately begin to dip/fall as your car appears to be 'straining at the leash'.

If you continue to let the clutch out, the engine should stall/stop. If unsure, repeat the test (just once or twice.)

If revs don't drop markedly to the point of the engine stalling, it is most likely your clutch is 'slipping' and needs a mechanic's attention.

[guest1232]

Another indication is when in 5th gear, put your foot right to the floor and listen for the revs rising without the associated acceleration.
A clutch will begin slipping in this situation as engine torque is at it's highest and wind resistance at it's maximum.

[Century21]

Thanks for the advice... I will try those ideas as soon as I can.

[Century21]

The clutch finally went on Thursday and I had to take it to Arnold Clark this morning.  Got a call a wee while ago telling me that the clutch was burnt out.  After 3 weeks?   
Do dealers actually check their cars? 

Anyway, it's still within its 60 day warranty so that's a small comfort. 

[guest2662]

look at it another way, at least you will have a new clutch, you wont have to worry about the clutch anymore. 

[Century21]

Right... Arnold Clark have said that the burnt out clutch was down to driver error - I've had the car three weeks, driven less than 100 miles (only to and from work, a journey of 10-15 minutes) and driven it normally (NOT riding the clutch) and now they are claiming I wrecked the clutch and are charging me nearly £800 for a new one, even though it's still within the warranty. 
What about the three previous owners?

So far they've had to give me a new rear wiper and fix the tailgate... and now this.  They can have it back!  I've contacted Citizens Advice for... advice.

[guest1521]

That's unfortunate. I presume you've checked their warranty word for word - fine print, too?? If they won't play ball...

Some ideas: See what Arnold Clark would offer on a trade-in. (To sell it on, they'd repair the clutch at 'cost' which is a lot less than the £800 - at 'retail' - they've quoted you.) They might do a generous trade...

Get three quotes from reputable 'independent' garages. (Just make sure they'd fit quality parts.) Then weigh up how getting an 'independent' to fix it would effect your relationship/warranty with Arnold Clark - if at all. 

Let us know how you get on.

[Century21]

Warranty doesn't cover 'wear and tear'... just mechanical failure.  So the last owner could have thrashed the clutch to bits, but it burns out on my watch and I get the bill.  They said I rode the clutch because I'm an inexperienced driver - I never did it in my lessons or test so why should I do it in my own car?

The garage has refused to buy the car back... oh they'll sell it to muggins, but that's it.  I'll keep it until I get a decent offer.  At least it has a new clutch.

Not happy.

[guest1521]

Oh, I didn't realise you've had it done. Shame you had to stick with A. Clark to do it. But I guess they had the car in their workshop and it'd take too much time and hassle for you to shop around.

Car might be well worth keeping now, though. Perhaps a previous owner didn't thrash the car but merely rode the clutch. All the best.