Clubjazz - Honda Jazz & HR-V Forums
Honda Jazz Forums => Honda Jazz Mk1 2002-2008 => Topic started by: guest3415 on September 18, 2012, 06:12:09 PM
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can someone help me i want to fit a remote locking system. can some one help by telling me where the central locking unit is. is it under or behind the dash?
please help as hubby getting angry at me
thanks in advance
bmms1966
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sorry should read "keyless"
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I don`t know more but I`ll try to install a remote locking unit into my car over the weekend:
http://www.google.com/custom?hl=en&safe=active&client=pub-3303470113500914&cof=FORID%3A1%3BGL%3A1%3BL%3Ahttp%3A%2F%2Fwww.hondafitjazz.com%2Fheader.jpg%3BLH%3A50%3BLW%3A444%3BLBGC%3AFFFF00%3BBGC%3A%23000000%3BT%3A%23ff9900%3BLC%3A%23ffffff%3BVLC%3A%23999999%3BGALT%3A%23999999%3BGFNT%3A%23999999%3BGIMP%3A%23999999%3B&domains=www.hondafitjazz.com&ie=ISO-8859-1&oe=ISO-8859-1&q=power+door+lock&btnG=Search&sitesearch=www.hondafitjazz.com (http://www.google.com/custom?hl=en&safe=active&client=pub-3303470113500914&cof=FORID%3A1%3BGL%3A1%3BL%3Ahttp%3A%2F%2Fwww.hondafitjazz.com%2Fheader.jpg%3BLH%3A50%3BLW%3A444%3BLBGC%3AFFFF00%3BBGC%3A%23000000%3BT%3A%23ff9900%3BLC%3A%23ffffff%3BVLC%3A%23999999%3BGALT%3A%23999999%3BGFNT%3A%23999999%3BGIMP%3A%23999999%3B&domains=www.hondafitjazz.com&ie=ISO-8859-1&oe=ISO-8859-1&q=power+door+lock&btnG=Search&sitesearch=www.hondafitjazz.com).
Mod: Well, I managed to finish the job today, the remote locking unit is installed (the dead-locking does not work from the remote but I can dead-lock it with the key as before).
Mod2: The dead-locking is working now, connected the boot release cable to the lock wire and using the boot release button to give the system an another impulse to lock the car.
This is the unit: http://www.hawkcaralarm.com/UniversalUpgradeRemoteKeylessForCentralLock.aspx (http://www.hawkcaralarm.com/UniversalUpgradeRemoteKeylessForCentralLock.aspx).
Manual (HA-008): http://www.hawkcaralarm.com/Manuals.aspx (http://www.hawkcaralarm.com/Manuals.aspx).
I used the "negative locking" connection.
Did not connected the hazard lights nor the flashing LED, only the lock/unlock and power wires.
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There is no separated module on Jazz/Fit the locking and unlocking features are built in the Instrument Cluster.
However you can install a remote locking unit and probably you'll need the signals for locking and unlocking. This can be found on the fusebox.
The problem is... GD has two fusebox types, and here in Brazil is a mess because the Year/Model does not match the global (European/Japanese) models and forget the US model, it's another fusebox as far as i know.
Early Model (GD)
(http://www.fitfans.com.br/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Fit-GD-Fuse2004.jpg)
On this model the signals are on the 13 connector, I can check later which pins...
Newest Model (GD)
(http://www.fitfans.com.br/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/fuseGD20063.jpg)
If you can confirm which model is your fuse box I think I can help more.
Also can you post the model or installation instructions of the remote locking unit?
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The signal is sent from the instrument cluster to each of the solenoids inside the door. Any of these can also pack up due to wear / dodgy wiring / bad connections / bad re-assembly when something is repaired. They are usually very reliable as the solenoid is a robust device
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hi guys thanks for all the advice and help so far just one more question , where is the instrument cluster?
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how do you hope to fit anything if you dont know whare anything is on the car ? ;D
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hi guys thanks for all the advice and help so far just one more question , where is the instrument cluster?
The instrument cluster is actually where you see the Gauges like speed, fuel and Revs.
how do you hope to fit anything if you dont know whare anything is on the car ? ;D
That's true, if you are not sure in this case, it's better for look for a service to install the remote locking module for you, at least you can ask for warranty of the service if needed. It's less risky.
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I'm trying to find out for my hubby but chrisc said the signal comes from the instrument cluster ? so do we connect the new remote unit to the fuse box ? or is there a locking unit that it connects to. Hubby is confident he can connect it just wasn't what to.
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Which type of fusebox do you have? Or better which GD model and Year ?
Here in Brazil people install alarms and remte locking units by getting the signals from the fusebox, however it's possible to get the signals from the Instrument Cluster connector too. Some Japanese guys buy an module that checks the Speed signal and lock the doors automatically (This is standard on GE), but in this case makes sense to go on the instrument cluster because you need the VSS Signal.
What model are you going to install?
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Hi I have a 2003 se not sure what GD means
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GD: 2002-2008, http://clubjazz.org/forum/ (http://clubjazz.org/forum/), GE: 2008- .
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You can also check on your car documentation. Locate the VIN/Chassis number and check from the 4th number the 3 digits.
For Example, my car is an GE6 in my VIN is like this 93HGE6XXXXXXXXXXXX
the first 3 digits are the Factory Plant which your car is manufactured mine is 93H = Honda Brazil, the next 3 digits are GE6 which corresponds to my car Model.
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Hi I have a GD 1 model
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Hi
The lock barrel of my jazz GD1 model is jammed. So I ordered the hawk alarm mentioned in the post today. Now need to get it fixed. So eagerly awaiting reply from fellow members . Seems like I need to use the negative locking circuit diagram as in the manual. Can all the necessary connections to the hawk receiver be tapped from the fuse box itself. Also which is the best place to keep the receiver module in the car .
Thanks in advance
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Hi,
I`ve fitted my Hawk unit above the pedals onto the panel which is the bottom cover of the dashboard (the removable panel).
On the right hand side where the bonnet opener is I took the kick panel off and behind there is this connector, https://dl.dropbox.com/u/18635761/Honda%20Hawk/Hawk.jpg (https://dl.dropbox.com/u/18635761/Honda%20Hawk/Hawk.jpg)
The white (unlock) and white/red (lock) cables are the unlock/lock wires. I cut them and joined the relevant wires from the hawk unit to it. (I used the negative locking diagram.) Furthermore I connected the red/black cable (from the Hawk unit) to the lock wire without any relay to use it as a secondary lock impulse to use the dead-locking on the car - so far it works, it does not matter in which order I press the buttons to lock the car, the boot release button gives impulse after 3 seconds continuous press).
The negative wire from the hawk unit twisted with the locking "negative" wires together and connected to the bonnet opener bolt.
On the right hand side of the fusebox there are 3 wires (2 thick one and 1 thinner - blue/red I think - all are constant positive), I used the thinner one to power the Hawk unit.
Hopefully it helps...
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Thank you for the detailed reply and the snap. Now I have a fair idea how to fix the hawk system to my car.
To wire the hawk unit i think you have removed the insulation of wires that go into the white connector (the cables marked in figure) and then tied the wires from the hawk and insulated it later. This needs to be done very carefully i guess.
Is there any other way to tap the signals without cuting wires ?
Fellow user 'kotarou' was mentioned that connector 13 in fuse box gives lock / unlock pins .
Deadlock means you cant open the car from inside as well right ?
Is this supported in GD1 version of Jazz (2003, base version)
I dont need that feature anyway i think.
Hi,
I`ve fitted my Hawk unit above the pedals onto the panel which is the bottom cover of the dashboard (the removable panel).
On the right hand side where the bonnet opener is I took the kick panel off and behind there is this connector, https://dl.dropbox.com/u/18635761/Honda%20Hawk/Hawk.jpg (https://dl.dropbox.com/u/18635761/Honda%20Hawk/Hawk.jpg)
The white (unlock) and white/red (lock) cables are the unlock/lock wires. I cut them and joined the relevant wires from the hawk unit to it. (I used the negative locking diagram.) Furthermore I connected the red/black cable (from the Hawk unit) to the lock wire without any relay to use it as a secondary lock impulse to use the dead-locking on the car - so far it works, it does not matter in which order I press the buttons to lock the car, the boot release button gives impulse after 3 seconds continuous press).
The negative wire from the hawk unit twisted with the locking "negative" wires together and connected to the bonnet opener bolt.
On the right hand side of the fusebox there are 3 wires (2 thick one and 1 thinner - blue/red I think - all are constant positive), I used the thinner one to power the Hawk unit.
Hopefully it helps...
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The locking device only needs an impulse in order to operate and can come from a circuit with a 10A fuse on it.
The receiver can go in any convenient place. You will be standing close to the car when you operate the remote, so do not need a long range. If there is an aerial sticking out of the box, make sure it is straight.
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I used this crimp connector to join the wires: http://www.screwfix.com/p/insulated-crimp-red-butt-pack-of-100/94616 (http://www.screwfix.com/p/insulated-crimp-red-butt-pack-of-100/94616), basically soldering would be the best but the room is quite small there so I rather used the crimp connectors.
Deadlock means you cant open the car from inside as well right ?
Yes, that is right and if you lock your car twice you should hear the locking sound twice so the deadlock is on. You should see the sticker on the window too from Honda.
I did not check connector 13.
The aerial on the unit is a thick black insulated wire and I left it partly hanging down above the pedals.
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Hi friends,
There is a central locking switch on the driver door handle. I was wondering if connections to the hawk module can be tapped from those to which the switch is connected. This may be a relatively risk free area to explore for novice. Remove that panel is also very easy. There is a youtube video illustrating the same.
http://m.youtube.com/?reason=8&rdm=4926#/watch?v=Zs2A01dWvGs&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DZs2A01dWvGs&gl=GB
Any idea on this.
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Hi friends
Does the battery needs to be disconnected while fitting the module ? (Air bags issues?)
In the negative locking diagram its written to program the module before connections are made. However, no further information was provided in installation manual.
I need some guidance in removing the kickpanels as well
1. remove fuse unit cover
2. remove 3 screws around fuse unit and pull out the panel around it
3. turn the lock at boot of dash 90 degree
4. pullout the kick panel
Is this the correct way ?
I used this crimp connector to join the wires: http://www.screwfix.com/p/insulated-crimp-red-butt-pack-of-100/94616 (http://www.screwfix.com/p/insulated-crimp-red-butt-pack-of-100/94616), basically soldering would be the best but the room is quite small there so I rather used the crimp connectors.
Deadlock means you cant open the car from inside as well right ?
Yes, that is right and if you lock your car twice you should hear the locking sound twice so the deadlock is on. You should see the sticker on the window too from Honda.
I did not check connector 13.
The aerial on the unit is a thick black insulated wire and I left it partly hanging down above the pedals.
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I did not disconnect the battery when I was working on the cabling. After the cabling finished you can plug the connector onto the Hawk unit and job done. Make sure the unit gets the proper 12V.
You don`t really need to get the fuse cover off because the wiring is below the fusebox.
After you turned the knob 90 degree you have to pull down the panel (2 other clips holds that) and after take off the side cover too (where the bonnet opener is).
The cables what I was using are coming from the drivers door lock (when the key turns it makes contacts only).
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Hi friends
Some help needed in removing the panels.
For the under the dash board panel there are 2 clips which hold it on to the body and a rotary type clip which holds it to do the dash.I turned the rotary clip 90Deg and the panel loosened there. But, There seem to be two more clips near to the rotory cips hence its not fully detaching from the dash (as seen in figure attached). Since its not detaching from dash I cant pull the cover out to take the panel out of other two clips on the body. Are these just pull down type clips ?
To take out the kickpanel in lower A pillar is it necessary to removed the hood opener handle or will it come out without that.
Thank you
I did not disconnect the battery when I was working on the cabling. After the cabling finished you can plug the connector onto the Hawk unit and job done. Make sure the unit gets the proper 12V.
You don`t really need to get the fuse cover off because the wiring is below the fusebox.
After you turned the knob 90 degree you have to pull down the panel (2 other clips holds that) and after take off the side cover too (where the bonnet opener is).
The cables what I was using are coming from the drivers door lock (when the key turns it makes contacts only).