Handbrake problem solved?

[guest809]

Like many contributors, we had been struggling with the handbrake on our 2005 Jazz. In fact it had got so bad that the handbrake literally would not hold the car on a hill at traffic lights no matter how hard you pulled the lever up.

Having previously adjusted by "taking up the slack" on the cable by tightening the nut at the lever end my little brain was asking what happens when you run out of thread?

So, only half remembering advice Culzean had posted in a previous thread, I set about adjusting again but this time I SLACKENED the nut and therefore the cables. I then placed my foot on the footbrake and pulled the handbrake lever up a couple of dozen times.

I did NOT then re-tighten the nut but left it in its new position which is about a third of the way up the thread.

The lever now comes up about 7 clicks which feels very uncomfortable and is a lot more than before BUT the handbrake is working perfectly. I did all this about ten days ago and there has been no deterioration since. I am not a qualified mechanic so can't explain why it has worked but so far it definitely has.

Please shout if I have done anything stupid but if not it might work for others?

[guest255]

According to VOSA the Honda jazz has a recall concerning the handbrake. It only affects models of a certain age.

http://www.dft.gov.uk/vosa/apps/recalls/searches/expand.asp?uniqueID=31C3634E54DCDFA7802574F00055803B&freeText=Blank&tx=

[JOCK55]

I cannot speak for GD model, but the hand brake on the my GE is so pathetic I have to carry a brick around with me to chock the wheels as I cannot trust the brake alone to hold.

I believe Honda need to have a fundamental rethink about the design of this item.

Jock 

[Geoffers]

I cannot speak for GD model, but the hand brake on the my GE is so pathetic I have to carry a brick around with me to chock the wheels as I cannot trust the brake alone to hold.

I believe Honda need to have a fundamental rethink about the design of this item.

Jock 

Hmmmm! Funny that, mine's fine. As was the handbrake on my GD!
But I agree, with such diverse experiences, there must be an undocumented design feature somewhere?

[culzean]

As far as I am aware my advice about 'completely slackening the cables adjusting nut and pumping the brake pedal' to get the 'self-adjusting' brake adjusters to ratchet up properly only works with drum brakes. 

These self-adjusters are supposed to ratchet round one click and turn a threaded adjuster whenever the brake shoes push out past their previous furthest position and thereby hold the shoes close to the drum surface. This means that the brake cylinder pistons are not pushed back into their cylinders as far and the brake-pedal free movement is reduced.  The ratchet adjusters don't seem to work too well as long as there is pressure on the handbrake cable though, and what seems to happen is that the position of the brakeshoes relative to the drum is only being taken up by the handbrake cable mechanism. Slackening off the cable and pumping the brake pedal seems to allow the shoes to move properly and ratchet up properly on the adjusters - the effect of this is to give less movement on the handbrake lever, a more even brakeshoe contact and more thread available for adjustment of the cable.

[gjbsjz]

For rear disc brakes with a self-adjusting mechanism on your Honda Jazz, here’s a more detailed breakdown of the adjustment process:

   1.   Loosen the Handbrake Cable: Begin by loosening the handbrake cable adjustment nut, usually located near the handbrake lever inside the car. Slacken it enough that the handbrake lever has minimal or no tension when pulled.
   2.   Engage the Footbrake and Handbrake in Sequence:
   •   Press the Footbrake: Pump the footbrake firmly several times. This process helps the caliper’s self-adjusting mechanism align the brake pads optimally against the rear rotors.
   •   Pull and Release the Handbrake Lever: Pull the handbrake lever up and release it about 20-30 times. This repetitive action engages the caliper’s self-adjustment feature, ensuring it can compensate for any wear on the brake pads and bring them closer to the rotor surface, allowing for a more effective handbrake hold.
   3.   Fine-Tune the Cable:
   •   After the self-adjustment, check the handbrake lever travel. The ideal range is usually around 5-7 clicks when pulled, which should feel firm and secure.
   •   If it feels too loose, tighten the cable slightly by adjusting the nut on the handbrake cable, but be careful not to overtighten, as it may restrict the self-adjustment function in the calipers.
   4.   Test the Handbrake: Find a gentle incline and pull the handbrake to check if it holds the car securely without excessive lever travel. Adjust as needed if it feels loose or doesn’t hold firmly.

This self-adjustment process is designed to align the handbrake mechanism with the disc brakes, ensuring an optimal hold and keeping the system in sync with pad wear.

[guest334]

Helpful write up , the key issue do not attempt h/brake adjustment without first releasing the cable bolt inside the  vehicle . I use a long reach socket jack the car on both sides at rear. Check the progress as you operate . It goes better if you know the rear brake system is operating freely no sticking slide bolts not rust on the pads etc.

[Sid Sufficient]

Jazz 2005 owner of 5 years here - the parking brake always been iffy. Have had it adjusted by garages a few times with variable results. Did a DIY job today following the advice here, and it definitely seems to have helped!