2014 Jazz Purchase Advice

[Jazzy]

Could someone please tell me if this is a fair price EDIT (I understand the links aren't working now so I'll add the info: 2014 i-VTEC ES Plus 27758k for £7600. Reputable dealer HM Car Sales Cullompton, good reviews, 3 month warranty, working to AA standards, 2 previous owners, part service history (7 services), bought at auction, a lot of the car looked like new, only real wear to drivers seatbelt and leather gearstick and a ding in the boot. Only had 5 out of the 10 autotrader checks though) : https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202510237372232?sort=relevance&twcs=true&searchId=b6eb75e1-09d1-4c8e-8634-45c48de6b082&make=Honda&maximum-mileage=80000&model=Jazz&page=1&postcode=TQ7+1UD&radius=100&transmission=Manual&year-from=2008&year-to=2015&advertising-location=at_cars&fromsra=&backLinkQueryParams=channel%3Dcars%26flrfc%3D1%26make%3DHonda%26maximum-mileage%3D80000%26model%3DJazz%26postcode%3DTQ7%25201UD%26radius%3D100%26sort%3Drelevance%26transmission%3DManual%26year-from%3D2008%26year-to%3D2015&calc-deposit=768&calc-term=48&calc-mileage=10000&calc-selected-product=HP

My 2009 Honda Jazz that had been brilliant got written off no fault of my own and all the Jazzes I test drove I found some fault on, so as running out of time with my hire car I have felt pushed to jump up in price to get a good condition Jazz. Was bummed when I put a deposit on this one and then a v similar equivalent just came out for thousands cheaper!! (2014 49k £3295 Main concern was a dent/scrape on the underside and door that looked like it had begun to rust) https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1219427770254529?referralSurface=messenger_banner&referralCode=2

It had sold though. Could someone please reassure me whether I am making a wise a decision on this as I am bamboozled from trying to get my head round so much at once. My concern was the oil was v dark brown (on the 27k car) after only 4k since it's last service (on the dipstick; my mum checked it on tissue and said it was clean and also v clean under the oil cap). I know it's terrible but I didn't understand services previously and don't think I ever had oil or filter changed on my 2009 after 6/7 yrs of ownership, driving 40k and never had any problems. Although I know better now!!

Both had great MOT history.

And is it worth spending 700 on 3 yr extended warranty? Dealership said they have a better one now with the Gold with Warranty Solutions group as opposed to the previous Handler one which had poor reviews. It's v complex to get my head around) Again my Jazz never had any problems in all those yrs and I've been disappointed to discover so many issues in second hand Jazzes that mine never had. I paid 3400 for it back then off FB marketplace with 39k, so have been losing sleep with this outlay! As of course I'm struggling to get insurance to pay out anyway near what mine was worth on current market.

The highest I've managed to get the no fault insurance valuation for my very good condition 2009 1.4 i-VTEC ES 79k is £3700. But equivalents on the market in my area are going for between £4500-5000 and I have test driven them and found leaks, gearbox bearing issues, poor paint work flaking off, rust etc....all things mine didn't have which would add another £1000 or so on top for repairs.

Tia 

Don't know how to add an image: autotrader says it's £591 above market value.
http://"C:\Users\lwald\Downloads\Screenshot_10-1-2026_91827_www.autotrader.co.uk.jpeg"

[2robbie2]

Hi - I clicked on the link, but the webpage says the advert is no longer available, hence I can't offer any advice on the price as I can't see the car or what price it was for sale at. I also can't see the second car as I'm not on Facebook, but if it's for thousands cheaper, there's usually a good reason for this (I'm guessing a Cat N or Cat S car, which is something I would avoid).

In terms of the oil being very dark brown after 4k miles from the last service, I'm not a mechanic and can't speak conclusively on this. However, based on my experience, I wouldn't be surprised that the oil is no longer clear after that mileage and has darkened (although I will bow to those with more expertise on this than me).

Turning to the matter of the warranty, there are lots of things to consider, such as the condition/age/mileage of the car, how much money one has, the company offering the warranty and its written provisions. Personally, I am a bit sceptical about warranties for older used cars if for no other reason that the companies that operate these usually have lots of exemption clauses etc. However, others on this website may have different views and experiences. I would;- (1) check the warranty details thoroughly to see what exemptions there are and assess these against the age, mileage & condition of the car; and (2) look at the dealer selling the car and look for online reviews to see whether they have a record of lots of dissatisfied customers/warranty problems.

You also refer to having seen lots of Jazz cars with problems, although it is not clear if these are major or minor. However, as a general rule, I would not purchase any car if I found a problem, unless I was satisfied that I or the seller could fix it properly and within budget.

The one firm piece of advice I would give you is to not buy a car simply because you you are running out of time with your hire car. I did this when I was much younger and purchased a used car that broke down just over a year later with the engine destroyed (which resulted in me spending even more money).

I hope this helps.

[GBH]

Have been looking at the economics of getting the transmission repaired on my Jazz as opposed to scrapping it and buying another. (Had hoped that it was a cheap fix - but it is an on-going saga. See my  posts).

Looking on the Autotrader website the asking price of similar models for the same age and similar mileage to mine have been very variable. It doesn't appear to vary with location but seems to be almost random numbers that the sellers have thought up, without considering what buyers are looking for. At this time of the year people are recovering from the expense of Christmas and do not have the money to splash out - hence why there are so many TV ads for summer holidays with big discounts for booking now.

The way I view this is "am I happy with what I bought?" and the price paid is incidental. The important financial consideration is the overall cost. ie: running costs including servicing, fuel, insurance, maintenance etc. and does it do what I bought it for? The price paid for the vehicle is only one part of the equation (or in business terms Whole Life Cost).

[Lord Voltermore]

I too cannot see the autotrader one, which says its sold. (was this your deposit?) 

But simple on-line valuation of average mileage 2014 Jazz  is quoted as about £5350 from a franchised dealer  ,maybe £4600 from a private seller, £3320 if traded in  as a part exchange . 

I can see a faded out version of the facebook one, using Mrs LV's account, but I dont want to log on to see more.    2014 , 49K  miles  £3295.

You may have missed a  bargain priced opportunity  at Trade auction value .But I wouldnt be too disappointed.  If something is too good to be true it probably is..  I'd be very wary of adverts like this.    Why is it so cheap?    He claims to be selling it on behalf of  his elderly mum.  A common claim by  fly-by-night  car dealers masquerading as private sellers  to avoid tax,and consumer rights laws .  Often cars that have been 'tarted up' and wouldnt stand close scrutiny on a sales forecourt.     If genuine  why is it photographed on an anonymous rural track    far from any identifiable  buildings ? A genuine car would more likely be photographed on mums driveway or residential street.    I am not saying dont buy from a private seller  . 

Personally I wouldnt spend £700 on 3 year warranty for a 12 year old car. There is a higher risk for the warranty company . There may be  lots of exclusions such as  'fair wear and tear,' or  obligations about servicing etc making it difficult to make a successful claim. . Your choice of course but the money may be better spent on  a better, possibly newer, car.

Brown oil after 4K miles might be expected  on a car of this mileage. Oil changes are sometimes just sucked out through  the dip stick tube, leaving some old oil behind  which mixes with the  new oil. The real warning signs is  if the oil is really black and  tar like especially if it feels gritty when rubbed between your fingers  .  Or a worrying low oil level.   A slightly grubby and 'honest'  engine compartment may be preferable to one  thats obviously just been pressure washed and degreased. What were they hiding?  .    Try to take someone with you when viewing the car, even if they know nothing about cars.  They might not be quite as excited or  desperate to buy and  spot problems with the car, or the seller that you have missed. Even if you are knowingly buying from a used car dealer.   Maybe that 'private' seller is a bit  too slick with their answers.    If in doubt walk away.

[Jazzy]

I have updated my original post with more info. Yes, It's my deposit on the autotrader one. Yes that's true....I wondered why the FB one had been photographed on a dirt track road....made it hard to see details of the paint work properly. His account did look legit though and not just a new account opened to make the ad. I bought my 2009 Jazz off FB marketplace 6/7 yrs ago with 39k for £3400 and got very lucky with it.

2014 is the last year before the Jazzes got more techy with touchscreen infotainment etc which I don't want. So I'm not sure how I could go newer than this or lower mileage for the year.

I wonder if the engine etc had been pressure washed etc on the dealership one? It looked like it had had a good valet, new tyres, break pads etc. Absolutely no rust in wheel arches etc, totally clean inside petrol cap. The rear magic seats were so stiff that they appeared to have never been used/broken in.

[2robbie2]

Hi - thanks for the extra details. Having looked at some comparables on Autotrader (same model, similar age and mileage), I think the price is a little high, but not by a huge amount - I think a more appropriate figure would be £7,000 (based on the Auto Trader comparables I have seen which have a lower mileage).

The only way I would purchase from a private seller would be to pay for a private AA inspection (unless it was a cheap, cheap run-around for a few months). However, I agree with Lord Voltermore - whenever I see a used car on a track or car-park instead of a residential street or driveway, I can't help but feel that something is not quite right.

It's a shame you can't get up to £9,000 as you could then buy a newer 2017 Mark3 SE spec with full dealer history, similar mileage and only 1 owner (see example below being sold by a Honda dealer). However, I appreciate £1,400 is a lot of additional money and not loose change down the back of the sofa. If you did change your mind, there shouldn't be a problem in getting your deposit refunded.

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202512048344837?sort=price-asc&twcs=true&searchId=fbc06e98-9f50-414f-a06f-3bf01a27edd9&advertising-location=at_cars&calc-deposit=768&calc-mileage=10000&calc-term=48&exclude-writeoff-categories=on&make=Honda&maximum-mileage=30000&model=Jazz&page=1&postcode=TQ7%201UD&transmission=Manual&year-from=2015&fromsra&backLinkQueryParams=advertising-location%3Dat_cars%26backLinkQueryParams%3Dchannel%253Dcars%2526flrfc%253D1%2526make%253DHonda%2526maximum-mileage%253D80000%2526model%253DJazz%2526postcode%253DTQ7%2525201UD%2526radius%253D100%2526sort%253Drelevance%2526transmission%253DManual%2526year-from%253D2008%2526year-to%253D2015%26calc-deposit%3D768%26calc-mileage%3D10000%26calc-selected-product%3DHP%26calc-term%3D48%26exclude-writeoff-categories%3Don%26fromsra%3D%26make%3DHonda%26maximum-mileage%3D30000%26model%3DJazz%26postcode%3DTQ7%25201UD%26searchId%3Db6eb75e1-09d1-4c8e-8634-45c48de6b082%26sort%3Dprice-asc%26transmission%3DManual%26twcs%3Dtrue%26year-from%3D2015%26flrfc%3D1

[Jazzy]

Thanks 2robbie2. I am willing to pay for a good deal/investment but don't want to throw money away for a poor investment. The thing with going newer than 2014 is I don't want all the modern tech of touchscreen infotainment, parking sensors, bluetooth, wireless etc. For health reasons this is why I don't use a mobile phone. It seems to drain me being blasted with all this radiation in a car.

I have paid a thousand pound deposit at the dealership with credit card. Consumer helpline told me I am now in a contract and I don't have a cooling off period or cancellation rights as I would have had I paid online. But the AA Dealer Promise seems to say I do still have the right to cancel. But like I said I don't really want to be blasted by all the new tech and find the touchscreens horrible to use whilst driving. I have spent 6 weeks looking and don't know of anything else in my area currently. 

[2robbie2]

Hi Jazzy - I completely understand about why you want to avoid the tech and that's one of the reasons why I purchased a Mark 3 Jazz - I chose the entry-level Jazz S model which has no touch infotainment or parking sensors at all. Admittedly it does have the option of Bluetooth, but this is only switched on if it has been linked with a mobile phone (which you don't have and hence it would never operate). You could pick up a 2019 model with similar mileage for about £9,200.

However, the slightly higher spec trim of the SE model (see the example in my previous message) is a better purchase if one can afford it and the one on sale from Honda MK looks to be a very decent purchase at the price. It's also worth pointing out that there really isn't much more tech in this than the S model or even the 2014 car you have put a deposit on (N.B. the radio station and volume on the SE model can be operated from the buttons on the steering wheel).

In terms of the refund, you haven't picked up the car yet and unless the dealership said that it was non-refundable when you paid this, I see no reason why they would not refund it - if you do change your mind, why not just telephone them and say you have decided not to proceed with the purchase and would like your deposit refunded (your credit card provides you with significant consumer protection). I would be stunned if they declined to do this, especially as you have not even picked it up.

In terms of finding a car in your area, most dealerships now deliver, so I don't think that would be an issue. I would be happy to take a look at the SE Model in MK if that helps as that is my local Honda dealer (where I used to have my car serviced).

The 2014 Mark 2 model is still a very good car and i would purchase one if that is all I could afford;- but you are clearly unsure about its price and condition, which I do not consider unreasonable given its age. If you don't have the additional money, then you are buying the best you can with the money you have. But if it were me and I had the additional money, yet wanted to avoid tech, then I would definitely buy a much younger 2019 Mark-3 S model.

[Jazzy]

2robbie2 Thank you, that's an extremely kind offer of you. I wish I'd seen your message earlier.

I phoned a Honda garage today and asked about the S model and they didn't say the wireless and bluetooth could be switched off. Without testing I wouldn't trust that they aren't emitting. It also has a touchscreen which I really don't like (SE). I also much prefer the Mk 2 look, don't like the newer styling. Love the solid feel of the Mk 2, airy/roomy interior...but without test driving I couldn't say about the S model. It would also mean going from 1.4 down to 1.3. Am I missing something? I agree the link u posted looks v good value compared to other equivalents on the market. But I have read the 2019 had fuel pump issues and they appear to have no space for a space saver tyre in the boot; which has been really useful to me as I have had flats on Devon roads. Do u have any examples of a 2019 S, low mileage at a low enough price? I couldn't find any. They were all getting much more expensive. I don't see the necessity atm as I feel my 2009 would have kept on going.

I guess I feel: if it ain't broke, don't fix it! As I loved my 2009. I hope the climate control is a good feature on the 2014? I could only demist my 2009 with aircon on. At 70ishk the speakers weren't working properly anymore and the rear electric windows stopped working but not major issues. The upholstery fabric does look cheaper on the 2014 than the 2009 and more prone to wear and the seatbelts don't seem as good quality.

Also is a powderiness on the engine a sign of aluminium corrosion or just a bit stripped from power washing as it looked extremely new under the bonnet? Like I said most of the car looked new and felt v good compared to all the 2009 Jazzes I viewed.

This Honda dealer one has made the one I've put a deposit on look like a fair deal!: https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202601109056142?journey=PROMOTED_LISTING_JOURNEY&sort=relevance&twcs=true&searchId=18580885-6b8d-4dbf-96ec-df176f017426&aggregatedTrim=&body-type=&colour=&fuel-type=&make=Honda&model=Jazz&page=1&postcode=TQ7%201UD&transmission=&year-from=2013&year-to=2013&advertising-location=at_cars&fromsra&backLinkQueryParams=aggregatedTrim%3D%26body-type%3D%26channel%3Dcars%26colour%3D%26distance%3D%26fuel-type%3D%26make%3DHonda%26max-year%3D2026%26maxPrice%3D%26minPrice%3D%26model%3DJazz%26postcode%3DTQ7%25201UD%26sort%3Drelevance%26transmission%3D%26year-from%3D2013%26year-to%3D2013%26flrfc%3D1

Yet there are cheaper equivalents but I wouldn't get the free delivery like with Honda dealers which is a great plus, as well as their 12 month free Honda warranty and full Honda service history etc. Buying from a Honda Dealer would be ideal but I don't know if it's worth losing the one I have a deposit on (I have sent them a list of questions) and not knowing if a Honda dealer will get one in.

[Marco1979]

The 1.3 in the mk3 is the exact same engine size as the 1.4 used in mk2: 1.339 liters. Be ease of the 1.2 available for the mk2 Honda renamed the 1.3 to 1.4 to ‘increase the difference’. But that is just marketing.

You said your rear windows stopped working. Might be the switch to prevent children playing with it, on your door panel.

Good luck finding a Jazz that suits you best!

[TnTkr]

Mk3 1.3-liter engine is using so called Atkinson cycle up to about 3000 rpm. This is of course to achieve better fuel efficiency, but as a consequence it provides noticesbly less low-end torque than in Mk2.

I would keep looking good Mk2 or even rather keep your current 2009 Jazz.

[Jazzy]

My current Jazz is not allowed back on the road. Cat B write off. It was parked on my driveway and delivery driver left his van in gear, no handbrake; it rolled down hill, writing off mine and my neighbour's car. I'm a bit heartbroken but like I said, I didn't know to have it serviced in the 7 yrs I had it! So maybe it was due something now (bigger to go wrong)....and I have the opportunity to find something new and start with less mileage again. I still hope the 2014 one I put deposit on should be a good buy??

I never had any children in the back to fiddle with the windows. So I do think the electrics went but can't check it now as the car was taken away. I've seen photos from some weeks back and it's been made completely muddy in the interior and left to rust.  :'(

As far as I understand low end torque is nice for me...as I do shorter infrequent drives in country lanes.....barely ever longer trips or motorway driving. I don't drive like a slug but also don't need to speed around! I learnt how to get the most out of the 2009 1.4 in terms of driving, in all scenarios. I noticed no driving performance difference in the 2009 1.2 I test drove....but it had major damp issues and no boot space for space saver wheel.

[Keekster71]

I'm a fan of the mk2 or GE model as its officially called.  I have 3 imports, or Fits as the Japanese call them.  They are all petrol models (not hybrids), two 1.3 models and a 1.5l "RS" model.  They are all CVT gearboxes.  Very happy with them.  I prefer the design over the mk3.  The mk3 also has the annoying tyre monitoring system which seems to cause a lot of problems.  The biggest challenge of finding a mk2 is rust.  They have a bad habit of rusting around the petrol flap, the end of the sill and the wheel arch lip.  The mk3 got a wheel arch liner so dont rust as bad here.  That was the reason I bought an MK2 import, i.e. no rust issues.  Insurance isn't really a problem, for the basic models (1.3l) but for the RS I used an insurance broker (Sterling).  Cost was comparable to UK models, but I am over 50! Parts are not a problem for the RS, its pretty much identical to the UK car.  The 1.3l has smaller brakes, so I had to track down the correct part numbers for replacements, but I solved that problem.  Only other problems I had were one starter motor (same as UK model), and one door lock actuator.  I replaced it with a chinese copy (via Amazon).  Its actually possible to repair the old lock with a new motor from china (very cheap!), so I rebuilt the old one and put it back on the shelf.  The lock is also different to the UK model, but it was easy to get the parts online.

[Jazzy]

How did you get the imports? I don't know enough to be confident in any of that.

In the 2009's I viewed I've never seen any rust around the petrol cap. Mine only had specks of rust where the door edge had chipped and hadn't been touched up with paint pen quick enough and break discs obv get v rusty in our climate.

The 2014 I put deposit on has no signs of rust anywhere; wheel arches etc look surprisingly clean and new.

I'm always after manual not CVT.

[TnTkr]

So what keeps you from going to buy the one you have paid deposit?