Author Topic: Fitting DRL's  (Read 8510 times)

jazzyjef9

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Fitting DRL's
« on: October 02, 2016, 09:23:17 AM »
Hi, I just fitted a pair of Philips Daylight9 to my Jazz but I can't seem to find the sidelight wire.

I need to make a connection from the DRL's to the sidelight wire so that they go off when the sidelights or headlights are on.

Any suggestions on what to do?

guest1372

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Re: Fitting DRL's
« Reply #1 on: October 02, 2016, 04:18:24 PM »
Sidelights and tail lights run from the #9 10A fuse (in the engine compartment fusebox FB1).
A red/black feeds the tail light relay (in the under dash fusebox FB2), continued on with another red/black to each of the sidelights, tail lights and number plate lights, plus another red/black provides backlightling to the interior switches and audio unit.

The back of the headlight units and main lighting loom may be reached by partially removing the wheel arch liners, but you might be able to pick up one of the other lighting wires on route between the fusebox and each light.

The panel under the driver's knee shelf is easily removable - one twist lock and then it can be pulled down from a couple of friction fittings.
One word of caution - the red/black colour wire may also be used for other components, and the DRL's should be run from a low rated fuse either using a spare slot or a fusetap, not directly connected to the battery.

http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual.html > wiring diagram > index > exterior lighting (4)
--
TG

jazzyjef9

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Re: Fitting DRL's
« Reply #2 on: October 05, 2016, 10:39:04 PM »
thanks for your help TG!

I managed to tap into the red sidelight wire by removing the wheel arch liner on the passenger side, so now the DRLS switch on when I put on the sidelights or headlights.

Unfortunately, my DRLS - (Philips Daylight 9) are switching off intermittently as I drive, so I now need to find an ignition switched 12v somewhere in the engine bay to connect the blue wire to.

I think the Jazz alternator switches between 12 and 14 volts in order to save power, this confuses the DRL controller box which thinks the engine is off.


Are there any ignition switched fuses in the underbonnet fuse box, or is it easy to run a cable from the engine bay to the main fusebox under the steering wheel?


guest1372

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Re: Fitting DRL's
« Reply #3 on: October 06, 2016, 12:00:00 AM »
Now I've looked them up, I see your lights have an intelligent controller rather than just being a lamp on a wire. 

I assume you want the DRLs to act differently to the side/head lights and only come on when the key has been turned to IG1 or IG2 and for the DRL's to extinguish when the headlights are on.  The engine bay fuses are all permanent live.

The headlight height adjustment motors are fed from a fuse in the under dash fusebox (FB2) by yellow wires, so should be in the same loom as your sidelight tap behind the wheel arch liner.  These only get power when the key is in IG1 or above.  Other yellow wires are used elsewhere as well.

http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual.html > wiring diagram > index > 4

You're quite right about the alternator having different modes, it's controlled by the ECU with an algorithm based on engine power demand and electrical load  e.g. it's on low output when cold or when you are accelerating hard, but switched to a higher output mode when electrical demand is high and the engine power demand is low.  The latest cars have borrowed a trick from the hybrids and only run the alternator when decelerating if they can, the rest of the time it's left to almost freewheel.  The brown square in the engine bay fusebox is the ELD electrical load detector, I had to replace mine, although I hadn't noticed any symptoms it produced an error code.
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TG

jazzyjef9

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Re: Fitting DRL's
« Reply #4 on: October 07, 2016, 07:01:47 AM »
Thanks again TG!  :)

Yes, I only want the DRL's to come on when the key is turned to IG1 or IG2 and go off when the sidelights/headlights are on.

At the moment my wiring is: power cable - to battery positive, negative cable - to battery negative, orange control wire- sidlelight tap and the blue wire is connected to earth as Philips instructions for non hybrid cars.

The lights do work at the moment and correctly go off when I turn to side/head lights but are going on and off randomly as I drive.

Philips suggest connecting the blue wire to ACC+/KL15 in the fusebox to fix this.  I've had a look but don't see any easy way to get through the firewall to the underdash fuse box in my Jazz.

I will try hooking the blue wire to the headlight adjustment motor at the weekend and see if this fixes the problem with the lights turning off randomly.


guest1372

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Re: Fitting DRL's
« Reply #5 on: October 07, 2016, 07:11:19 PM »
No experience of this kit, but I'd expect a basic set would only need power, ground & sense; not sure what the 4th wire would do?

The yellow to the headlight motor might be better for power than the direct battery hook up, you then know off is definitely off, although the voltage will still vary a bit.  I guess the blue is some kind of mode switch, if they suggest connecting it to either ground or Acc power depending on circumstance.   I'm going off to look up the instructions.
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TG

jazzyjef9

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Re: Fitting DRL's
« Reply #6 on: October 07, 2016, 08:14:38 PM »
Hi, the instructions are here: http://bit.ly/2dL2Nfn

The wires are power, ground, sidelight sensor and the blue wire which is used for hybrid/electric cars to stop the lights going off, I guess this is also useful for my Honda due to the variable voltage?

I'm thinking of connecting both the power and blue wire to the headlight motor.

A user on another forum reports that connecting the power and blue remote wire together was the best way to stop the lights randomly turning off. (http://bit.ly/2dSPFXe)

I'll post some photos of the lights and my wiring once its all working.

thanks again!



guest1372

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Re: Fitting DRL's
« Reply #7 on: October 07, 2016, 09:36:37 PM »
Quite a lot of helpful info at the end of this thread:  http://www.vweosclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20625

I think rather than have the control box always monitor the battery and guess when to switch on, which is probably the easiest diy option, for those happy to dig a bit further it makes sense to use the IG1 switched power and set the mode for a start/stop/hybrid car as you and the instructions troubleshooting suggest. (Red and Blue from the control module to Yellow for the headlight height motor.)

I prefer the idea of using an IG1 source rather than ACC mentioned in the instructions as you can sit waiting in the car with the radio on and the DRLs off.

One user (as above) measured his lights before fitting:  I bench tested my kit before install because some posters were concerned about current draw or flattening batteries. The DRLs power on at about 13.5 volts and are off at 12 volts. If the lamps are forced on at 12V a pair take 0.9 A (12W). At 14.5 volts (alternator charging) current draw is 0.7A (10W). When the DRLs are 'off' the control unit draw is 3mA. This small current should not significantly add to battery drain.
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TG

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jazzyjef9

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Re: Fitting DRL's
« Reply #8 on: October 08, 2016, 02:46:11 PM »
I connected the red (power) and blue wires together to the yellow headlight motor wire and.... nothing.
The DRL's didnt come on at all, engine on or off.

So I've reverted back to wiring the red power cable directly to the battery positive terminal, I've left the blue wire connected to the yellow headlight adjuster wire for now.

The DRL's are still randomly switching off as the alternator voltage varies.

I think my next step might be to try to wire them directly to the under steering wheel fuse box?


guest1372

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Re: Fitting DRL's
« Reply #9 on: October 08, 2016, 08:19:07 PM »
That's interesting, the control unit is more intelligent than we are. 

If you have an ELM-327 code reader and the Torque Lite phone application (or equivalent) you can see the voltage the car is running on while you're driving.  Can't remember but I don't think mine varies by much, it may be more noticeable at the battery terminals. 

If you've got the chance it may be worth trying the blue mode switch directly connected to the power to put the control box in stop/start/hybrid tolerant mode.
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TG

jazzyjef9

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Re: Fitting DRL's
« Reply #10 on: October 09, 2016, 08:10:00 PM »
I have a bluetooth code reader and also Torque app so I'm going to monitor the voltage to see how much it varies when I'm driving.

I originally had the blue DRL wire connected directly to the battery positive (along with the red positive wire) but had the random switch off issue.

I think I'm somehow going to have to find a way to tap the acc+/KL15 in the fusebox.


guest1372

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Re: Fitting DRL's
« Reply #11 on: October 09, 2016, 08:29:38 PM »
It could be a dodgy connection or plug somewhere, rather than a controller issue.  I interpret the stop/start/hybrid mode to be always on.  Maybe worth asking in the other forums where people have fitted this light.
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TG

Rhysfjf

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Re: Fitting DRL's
« Reply #12 on: January 15, 2018, 10:03:55 AM »
Hiya,

I realise this is an old thread but I'm currently facing the same issue mentioned above - I have the exact same DRL lights which are wired in the exactly the same way as in the diagram on page 9 of this link:- http://www.produktinfo.conrad.com/datenblaetter/1200000-1299999/001231624-an-01-ml-PHILIPS_LE_de_en_fr_es_cs_pl_ro_ru_fi_sv.pdf

I've also noticed that the lights turn on and off randomly which after searching the wonderful internet have discovered is because of the varying voltage our cars produce.

I just wondered if anyone ever resolved this? Do I need to take the red and blue wire to the fuse box in the car to fix the issue? I'm not very clued up on electrical stuff, but am more than capable of following instructions.

Kenneve

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Re: Fitting DRL's
« Reply #13 on: January 15, 2018, 10:51:25 AM »
I don't really understand your comment about varying voltage.

A nominal 12v battery will give around 12.7 when fully charged but will show up to circa 13.8-14.4v under charge conditions.
None of these variations should have any affect on the operation of DRL lights.

Rhysfjf

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Re: Fitting DRL's
« Reply #14 on: January 15, 2018, 11:23:02 AM »
I don't really understand your comment about varying voltage.

A nominal 12v battery will give around 12.7 when fully charged but will show up to circa 13.8-14.4v under charge conditions.
None of these variations should have any affect on the operation of DRL lights.

Hi, thanks for the reply - if you have a read of the previous posts it explains why the lights are turning on and off.

The person who created this thread mentioned running the blue and red wire to somewhere on the fuse box, but didn't ever confirm their outcome - I tried private messaging but unfortunately they don't allow private messages.


I think the Jazz alternator switches between 12 and 14 volts in order to save power, this confuses the DRL controller box which thinks the engine is off.



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