Author Topic: UV damage to paintwork  (Read 1894 times)

peteo48

  • Approved Member
  • *
  • Posts: 2689
  • Country: gb
  • I have entered the Jazz Age
  • Fuel economy:
  • My Honda: 2021 Honda Jazz Mk4 1.5 i-MMD EX
UV damage to paintwork
« on: November 21, 2022, 05:02:29 PM »
There's a Fiat Punto near us. It's actually not in bad condition but the clear coat is peeling on the roof and the bonnet - the sides are unaffected.

I've also just seen a You Tube video about an old Volvo 140 (the one made by DAF if I'm not mistaken). It had been on a drive for over 20 years - the old boy who owned it had been annoyed by a low part exchange offer and had decided to keep it - he never drove it again.

The new owner has decided to restore it (it looks as if he does this professionally). The roof is almost down to the metal as is the bonnet - the sides have come up very well after a wash.

I've noticed whenever I put wax or sealant on my car, the sides bead up water for six months or more and yet we are told that these areas take the most punishment - in terms of dirt yes but not in terms of damage. On the roof and on the bonnet, the protective qualities disappear after a month or two.

I park outside (no garage) and the car gets a lot of UV exposure (or as much as is possible in Warrington). I'm fairly sure now that UV is the most damaging environmental element in terms of car paintwork. I now wax the roof and the bonnet about once every two months in addition to the regular Quick Detailer spray I use. The sides are fine with just a detail spray and it's easier to wax a flat surface anyway.

Today's car care hack 8)

Jocko

  • Approved Member
  • *
  • Posts: 9356
  • Country: scotland
  • Fuel economy:
  • My Honda: Died from rust.
Re: UV damage to paintwork
« Reply #1 on: November 21, 2022, 06:39:11 PM »
The 140 series were built in Torslandaverken in Sweden and some in Ghent. The Volvo 66 and later 300 series were built by DAF.
I had a 1969 Volvo 144. A wonderfully engineered machine. Before heated rear screens, it had demist air ducted through the sills (to keep them dry and rust-free), Dual fan belts (so if one broke you were not stranded) and a thermostat which didn't just open and close but was either open or directing the water to the exhaust valve area for more rapid warming up.


Tags:
 

Back to top