Tyre rotation - mileage expectation?

[aphybrid]

I like to have the best tyre where the most wear is and also like to change whole sets. Generally with all cars I have owned check tyre depth every 3000mls approximately.

Having got to 3137 miles checked depth.
FL5.9, RL6.2, FR6.0, RR6.4

Having a full size new spare swapped these round to FL6.6, RL6.2, FR6.4, RR6.0 made the original FL5.9 the 'spare'.

From the new tyre depth with the average tread loss so far with assumed linear wear around 33000 miles may be expected from a set worn to the minimum 1.6mm.

Personally I change then just t a convenient point above 2mm.

[sportse]

I've done 12k miles on my standard EX 16" Yokohamas now.

Tread depth is FR & FL 5mm and RR & RL 6mm.

Estimated life maybe 20k on the front and 40k on the rears.

I change my tyres at 3mm - on most cars I've had they are definitely going off at 4mm as you can feel the reduced traction and I want to keep wet weather ability too.

Although not excellent, I've been impressed with the all round ability of the Yokohamas - flexible enough in freezing temperatures, reasonable wear.

Let down slightly by wet weather cornering/acceleration but a bit better than the standard Crosstar tyres in the same conditions as I drove them back to back.

[Lord Voltermore]

I like to have the best tyre where the most wear is and also like to change whole sets. Generally with all cars I have owned check tyre depth every 3000mls approximately.

Having got to 3137 miles checked depth.
FL5.9, RL6.2, FR6.0, RR6.4

Having a full size new spare swapped these round to FL6.6, RL6.2, FR6.4, RR6.0 made the original FL5.9 the 'spare'.

From the new tyre depth with the average tread loss so far with assumed linear wear around 33000 miles may be expected from a set worn to the minimum 1.6mm.

Personally I change then just t a convenient point above 2mm.

I though new tyres typically had 8mm of tread  ( I've just measured a brand new all seasons tyre and that has 8mm, but maybe all seasons have more .I've had full winter tyres with 9mm)

If the OE tyres had  8mm   then being down to 6mm or so  after only 3137 miles equates to tread wear at 1mm every 1600 miles  , extrapolating to the fronts only lasting 10K miles, and not much better on the rears. 

But I think  (and hope) they only have  7mm or so when new. .    I've just measured the Yokohama Blue earths on my Jazz EX which has done 2200 miles .  I had about 7mm on the rears  and a bit less  on the fronts.  Done with  a manual depth gauge.    I dont have a fancy gauge that can measure to decimal places.  I tried using  digital calipers but its not ideal. I get different results every time, depending on where and how I measure.

Sportse's estimates are a bit more encouraging.  Motorway miles  gives less wear than stopping starting and making turns and  20k miles on the front is fair enough  (although I got about 25K from the bridgestones on my Yaris Diesel)

If summer tyres only have 7mm  when new   its another reason to consider all seasons.   

[sportse]

If summer tyres only have 7mm  when new   its another reason to consider all seasons.   

When I had Michelin Cross Climates on my last car, Michelin said that they could be used right down to 1.6mm even in snow!

Apparently they were designed so that as they wear, the tread pattern changes to continue to make them effective.

I never got the chance to see, but as other manufacturers recommend changing at 3mm for summers and 4mm for winters they might be worth the higher price.

[Lord Voltermore]

I suspect Michelin have better results than their rivals in tests  at 1.6mm and are seeking to exploit their advantage as
a marketting ploy.     But regardless of what Michelin say some of  the countries I visit still have a legal minimum  for winter. Some have dropped this to 3mm  but its still 4mm in one or two. 

The Goodyear vector all seasons Gen 2 I had on my yaris had frequent wear bars at 4mm   and 1.6 mm.    But the Gen 3 ones I have just bought for the Jazz   (I like to plan ahead  )  only have three or four  4mm ones, not easy to find. Presumably because 4mm is no longer relevant in most countries.

There is another intriguing feature. The single continual radial tread along the centre of the tyre is only 4mm deep, while  the curved treads radiating from it are 8mm deep.      Thus this single tread will quite quickly wear so its less than a legal minimum,  and even disappear completely while the bulk of the tyre still has 4mm depth. 

One hopes that this single errant tread wont fall foul of  over zealous  police or  mot testers  . 
The following photo may show what I mean  , but might not 

[Jazzik]

When I had Michelin Cross Climates on my last car, Michelin said that they could be used right down to 1.6mm even in snow!

Apparently they were designed so that as they wear, the tread pattern changes to continue to make them effective.

I really wouldn't try...
Sounds a bit like an advertising slogan like "Kills 99.999% of bacteria".

[aphybrid]

I like to have the best tyre where the most wear is and also like to change whole sets. Generally with all cars I have owned check tyre depth every 3000mls approximately.

Having got to 3137 miles checked depth.
FL5.9, RL6.2, FR6.0, RR6.4

Having a full size new spare swapped these round to FL6.6, RL6.2, FR6.4, RR6.0 made the original FL5.9 the 'spare'.

From the new tyre depth with the average tread loss so far with assumed linear wear around 33000 miles may be expected from a set worn to the minimum 1.6mm.

Personally I change then just t a convenient point above 2mm.

I though new tyres typically had 8mm of tread  ( I've just measured a brand new all seasons tyre and that has 8mm, but maybe all seasons have more .I've had full winter tyres with 9mm)

If the OE tyres had  8mm   then being down to 6mm or so  after only 3137 miles equates to tread wear at 1mm every 1600 miles  , extrapolating to the fronts only lasting 10K miles, and not much better on the rears. 

But I think  (and hope) they only have  7mm or so when new. .    I've just measured the Yokohama Blue earths on my Jazz EX which has done 2200 miles .  I had about 7mm on the rears  and a bit less  on the fronts.  Done with  a manual depth gauge.    I dont have a fancy gauge that can measure to decimal places.  I tried using  digital calipers but its not ideal. I get different results every time, depending on where and how I measure.

Sportse's estimates are a bit more encouraging.  Motorway miles  gives less wear than stopping starting and making turns and  20k miles on the front is fair enough  (although I got about 25K from the bridgestones on my Yaris Diesel)

If summer tyres only have 7mm  when new   its another reason to consider all seasons.   

The new tyre on the spare - Dunlop Ensave EC300- same as on car as delivered has tread depth of 6.6mm making the wear rate 0.223/1000miles.
If I same driving/routes etc and swapping around for best tyre into worst wearing position will get to approx 28000 miles at 3mm ready for change.
If you can see attached xlsx put onto doc

[Lord Voltermore]

As I suspected.  So these modern summer tyres with wide radial treads  (and little else in the way of grip ) are short changing us on tread depth.    Presumably to reduce squirming.    I'll be running my nice 8mm deep all seasons half the year     .     
I will have to factor those into a tyre rotation regime  .   To which end I have just invested  nearly £5 in a digital tread gauge from fleabay.    (Thought about paying £30 - £50 for an mot approved one, but not for long.    )

[aphybrid]

I use similar to this;
https://www.amazon.co.uk/VERGO-Tyre-Tread-Depth-Gauge/dp/B077T98CJK/ref=asc_df_B077T98CJK/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310668964056&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3453338189437997811&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046853&hvtargid=pla-426915259839&psc=1

[Lord Voltermore]

I use similar to this;
https://www.amazon.co.uk/VERGO-Tyre-Tread-Depth-Gauge/dp/B077T98CJK/ref=asc_df_B077T98CJK/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310668964056&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3453338189437997811&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046853&hvtargid=pla-426915259839&psc=1

I'd have gone for that type if I  had done more research .   No batteries to run out. .    My new digital one shows the new Goodyears as 7.5mm  rather than the 8 mm shown on my simple 'rising tower' gauge.   But still nearly 1mm more than my Blue earths  that are now showing 6.5 on the rear and a bit less on the front , suggesting that  like the Dunlops, they too had about 6.6mm when new. 

[Mark Dirac]

I guess that using LKAS will accelerate tyre wear. Because it hunts a fair bit.

Whether it accelerates tyre (and steering components' ) wear significantly or not is a question.

[Lord Voltermore]

I guess that using LKAS will accelerate tyre wear. Because it hunts a fair bit.

Whether it accelerates tyre (and steering components' ) wear significantly or not is a question.

I dont think mine hunts to the extent it would make a significant difference to mileage.  It does it a bit more if its windy   but thats true even if you are correcting  lane keeping manually.  You might notice the  hunting more with  LKAS as you are not initiating and  anticipating it.      A bit like  passengers tend to be more susceptible to car sickness than the driver,  who is more attuned to how the car is about to respond to steering and speed changes. 

I think that  regularly  making full use of the cars incredible torque from rest might be a bigger factor in front tyre wear.

[MRCLICKCLICK]

With my last car  Jazz, with front to back rotation, I achieved 36000 miles - when I sold the car - and it still had some tread left - original tyres as supplied. Having service today - as Susan I get them to rotated from to back to even the wear out.

[nowster]

Sounds a bit like an advertising slogan like "Kills 99.999% of bacteria".

Actually that's because they can't claim 100% even if it (chlorine bleach) provably does.

[SouthernExile]

My Jazz SR (registered 30 September 2020) had its second service two days ago (at 12,600 miles) and the tyres were measured by the dealer at:

NSF: 3.9/4.3/3.5
OSF: 3.9/4.4/3.7
NSR: 5.7/5.6/5.1
OSR: 6.1/5.9/5.1

I had seen noticeable wear on the sides of the front tyres, so it was no surprise that I needed to have the front alignment adjusted (£29). I have all the safety features which act on the front wheels switched on. I intend to replace the front tyres this autumn.
The only other item I had to pay for (I have a five year service plan) was new front wipers, as one had split and was very noisy (£36). The dealer did not charge for the courtesy car or its insurance.