Clubjazz - Honda Jazz & HR-V Forums
Honda Jazz Forums => Honda Jazz Mk1 2002-2008 => Topic started by: JazzyB on September 03, 2014, 09:18:30 PM
-
I planning to change both battery and exhaust in the near future with genuine Honda parts.
Has anyone negotiated on Honda's prices?
-
I usually get 10-20% off at my local Honda dealer and free fitting (depending what the item is)
No harm in asking
-
Not sure what Honda charge to change the battery. But it's got to be the easiest thing to do (apart from changing the pollen filter).
I bought one from ebay (genuine Honda battery) from a Honda dealership and installed it in about 5-10mins.
Changing the exhaust is dangerous if you don't have a proper ramp, cheapest way to do it is to buy the part and get a local garage to change it for you. I'd be surprised if they charged you more than £20 cash.
-
The battery from honda fitted is £95 according to their website.
The battery on its own is I believe is about £60.
-
I paid £56.49 including delivery for my honda battery. It is identical to the one I replaced.
It's really easy to replace, just need a socket set. But if you're not confident about doing it, then just take it to Honda.
-
As said, changing a battery is an ok job, but as with any other work on a car, only if you are confident to do the work. If not confident then Honda fixed price work is good value when you take into account the 'take it back, it's not working, simplicity'. This can be much more difficult or confrontational at a chain/backstreet workshop. Ideally, I think a good local reputable garage is best for that sort of work. But they are not so easy to find now.
However, exhaust is different, Honda parts are very expensive, even after a discount. If it were me, on a 2007 car, I would buy pattern parts and get said reputable garage to fit, again as said previously. From my experience with the pink peril, If the exhaust doesn't play ball when splitting the sections, you need to be able to get right underneath and have help. Not always easy at home.
-
Trouble is when you compare OEM vs aftermarket exhausts, aftermarket ones are so thin and only designed to last the warranty period (18 to 24 months). The way they fix together is not good either, the original Honda used to have a proper spring loaded ball and socket joint to allow them to move around, aftermarket were simply a bolted flange.
-
Just got a quote from Honda for both centre and rear sections fully fitted including associated fittings a grand total of £476 inc.
-
Hi unsure wether I live in the real world or is that an outrageous amount for exhaust or is it about normal?
-
Well pattern parts from a well known supplier work out at less than £80.
-
Depends how long you want to keep the car, OEM Honda stuff lasts 10 to 12 years, aftermarket about 2.
£476 / 12 = £39 £80 / 2 = 40 so really about the same. If you can get Bosal or a good aftermarket exhaust (made out of steel that is thicker than tissue paper) you will pay a price between the Quickfits / ATS end of the market and full Honda.
a lot of popular exhaust suppliers won't change the centre pipe on a Jazz because they are scared of breaking the CAT whilst doing it - happened to my wife.
-
I have sorted the battery out. I sourced one on ebay for £56.49 compared to Honda who want £75 unfitted.
The exhaust I am still searching all options...........
-
Whilst I agree that genuine Honda exhaust parts are good quality, my experience is that expecting them to last 10 - 12 years is a tad optimistic. At the same time, some pattern parts will give a happy 4 - 5 years service. Personally, I would not spend £500 on an exhaust for a 2007 car.
The original joint between centre section and cat is horrible, no wonder the exhaust centres are scared of it! The pattern replacements I fitted to my 2005 were slotted rather than holes, which made more sense.
-
Whilst I agree that genuine Honda exhaust parts are good quality, my experience is that expecting them to last 10 - 12 years is a tad optimistic.
My old Civic which I sold to my next door neighbour and is now 12 years old has just passed its MOT last week and still has its original factory fitted exhaust. ;D
-
My 2004 SE sport has the original exhaust but I changed to a Yuasa battery after 9 years.
-
I planning to change both battery and exhaust in the near future with genuine Honda parts.
Yes I'm interested to know how you get on with changing the battery, as it is something I may be doing in the near future.
I think you may need to reset the electric windows and power steering if fitted. Electric window reset seems to be just opening the windows fully and closing fully, keeping your finger on the button for 1 - 2 secs after fully open and fully closed. Power steering reset seams to involve clearing fault codes.
-
Just changed the battery - no problems straight forward swap.
Just had to reset the drivers window. clock and reload the radio stations that were stored.
Other than that no problems started instantly and went for a short drive no problems.
-
My owners manual shows how to change the battery.
It is very straight forward.
-
When I bought a battery for my previous car, a GD, the dealer fitted it but first connected a small 12V battery to the leads to maintain all the stored memories before disconnecting the old battery.
No probs.
Vic.
-
I changed the battery in my 57 CVT model just over 3 years ago. Fitted a Bosch S4018 purchased from my local Eurocarparts. I recall I just reset the clock, radio, electric windows and took it for a drive. No problems with CVT or the battery.
It also seems to have fixed a weird problem with the electric power steering when say I used to reverse out of a parking space in local supermarket car park, then engage Drive and there seemed to be complete loss of power steering for a fraction of second when trying to turn the steering wheel. Not witnessed it since the new battery was installed.
I believe the Varta equivalent (Bosch and Varta are identical) is the A14 which is currently around £40 online from Battery Megastore (10% discount code available if you download their google play app, and notify them by email, would bring it down to £36). I bought a Varta AGM battery for another car a few weeks ago from Battery Megastore, delivered undamaged next working day in a strong cardboard box just slightly bigger than the battery, lined with upto an inch thick of sheet polystyrene.
(Varta online battery selector seems to wrongly list the A13 battery - wrong B01 Base Hold down for UK model - might be a wee bit too wide for the battery tray??)
Link to Varta A14 specs
http://www.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/products/automotive/blue-dynamic/540-126-033/ (http://www.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/products/automotive/blue-dynamic/540-126-033/)
Base Hold down type B00. ie. clamp over the top of the battery instead of at the base.
I may be looking for a new rear silencer. There is heavy corrosion on the pipe just a few inches in front of the silencer box, where it is likely to snap. (Friend with an 06 GD suffered this failure a year ago) If my local Honda dealer can't supply and fit a silencer for less than £150 (Lings lists the part at less than £300), then Bosal seems to be best after market alternative as suggested by Culzean.
-
Depends how long you want to keep the car, OEM Honda stuff lasts 10 to 12 years, aftermarket about 2.
£476 / 12 = £39 £80 / 2 = 40 so really about the same. If you can get Bosal or a good aftermarket exhaust (made out of steel that is thicker than tissue paper) you will pay a price between the Quickfits / ATS end of the market and full Honda.
a lot of popular exhaust suppliers won't change the centre pipe on a Jazz because they are scared of breaking the CAT whilst doing it - happened to my wife.
I know, an old thread, but the original content is still valid.
Just did this on my owned since 02 Jazz as exhaust centre also wanted to replace CAT and replacements are rubbish.
Original Honda exhaust = 12 years until an MoT tester put a screwdriver through it.
Klarius exhaust, rear & middle = 1 1/2 years and fitted badly by a nationwide chain.
Rear and middle are about £40 each with gaskets at a motor factor, so I'd say the Honda part is better value if you plan on keeping the car another decade.
So both exhausts replaced again, this time by myself as failure was sudden, unforeseen, possibly preventable (and if you want a job done right ...).
Between the two parts there should be a flexible coupling, with a fibre donut washer, a suitable concave recess and spring bolts, but if you are a national chain looking to save pennies, ignore this and bolt the two rigidly together with just some paste.
The side of a damp A1 at night without a hard shoulder is not fun. My failure was due to corrosion and stress of the flange/pipe at the coupling resulting in the flange breaking from the pipe and the rear section dropping to the tarmac but held up by rubber mounts at the back. It struck me that if the pipe caught an obstruction while dragging it could have pushed the rear box straight out through the bumper moulding, and left debris in the carriageway. Luckily it did not & I was able to cut the rear rubbers off to save time in a vulnerable position, and get somewhere safer.
The box and pipe were in OK condition except for the flange and pipe around it on both sides were very rusty.
So my theory is if the pipe cannot flex at the joint then the stresses weaken it and promote corrosion, and failure is without warning. Can't trust the other flange now so both boxes had to be replaced.
New spring bolts £6, fibre washer £1, front gasket £1, rear box £36, mid box £38 inc. vat. Euroflow brand.
When fitting support the car safely, and a dab of oil on the rubbers make them 10x easier to fit & remove.
My advice: check your exhaust will flex when you get it replaced.
--
TG
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2dm8k5f.jpg) (http://i68.tinypic.com/25tvozq.jpg)
-
I had also noticed that genuine Honda exhaust pipes had spring loaded spherical joints and could move around, an exhaust system that cannot flex will soon break, and aftermarket stuff is made from tissue paper, just feel the difference in weight, you can pick up a quickfit pipe with one finger.
-
Have you considered just rewelding the exhaust, or is the part too far gone?
Failing that option try a used part from your breakers yard.
-
Have you considered just rewelding the exhaust, or is the part too far gone?
Not a welder, so new pattern parts last week, plus new bolts and joint paste for the CAT coupling.
-
Sorry Ladies and Gents off section but has anyone tried the stainless steel option. My old Rover V6 used to be partial to back boxes which I hasten to add were allegedly OE. I seem to remember in the region of £150 delivered and then I had to fit it. It was quite a lump of metal.
It was suggested that I tried Stainless Steel. I did some enquiries and found a firm in Plymouth that would make and fit a system back from cat. It did cost £400 BUT that was only just over 2 back boxes. It was guaranteed for the time I kept the car.
I then sold the Rover and bought my Jazz.
-
Sorry Ladies and Gents off section but has anyone tried the stainless steel option. My old Rover V6 used to be partial to back boxes which I hasten to add were allegedly OE. I seem to remember in the region of £150 delivered and then I had to fit it. It was quite a lump of metal.
It was suggested that I tried Stainless Steel. I did some enquiries and found a firm in Plymouth that would make and fit a system back from cat. It did cost £400 BUT that was only just over 2 back boxes. It was guaranteed for the time I kept the car.
I then sold the Rover and bought my Jazz.
Rear box snapped off are 2bolts captive nuts or just nuts and Bolt there rotten and will shear when try to undo
Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
-
Do you mean the sprung joint behind the back box? I believe they are nuts & shouldered bolts.
Plenty of heat is your friend when undoing any exhaust bolts, a welding or burning torch is the best, but one of those cheap gas torches they use in baking circles can make a very useful substitute.
-
Do you mean the sprung joint behind the back box? I believe they are nuts & shouldered bolts.
Plenty of heat is your friend when undoing any exhaust bolts, a welding or burning torch is the best, but one of those cheap gas torches they use in baking circles can make a very useful substitute.
Yeah that the ones
Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk