Recent Posts
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Honda Jazz Mk4 2020 - / Re: Brake pads still good at 40k!
« Last post by Nicksey on Today at 12:56:23 PM »Mine has just had it's 4th service at 42k, and like you I received a walk around video. My brakes are at 15% wear, which is excellent. I drive town and minor roads in B and anticipate as much as I can using the regen, only really dabbing the brakes to complete the stop. I only use D mode on motorways.
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Honda Jazz Mk4 2020 - / Re: Best driving technique for long, steep highway climbs (5–8% gradient)?
« Last post by sebastiand on Today at 11:07:09 AM »Personally I use the mash the pedal approach and turn up the music.Me too, wanna try to feel the 253 Nm torque!
However yeah for a long road uphill, I would definitely go softer.
Sent from my Pixel 9 using Tapatalk
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Honda Jazz Mk4 2020 - / Brake pads still good at 40k!
« Last post by Neil Ives on Today at 10:47:42 AM »My car is currently being serviced. The mechanic always sends me a video of his visual checks. The brake pads are showing only about 20% wear. The car is 5 years old. Mileage is 42k. The brake pads are the original ones. I use B when I'm in town and try to minimise braking.
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Honda Jazz Mk3 2015-2020 / Re: bit of a lift
« Last post by TnTkr on Today at 09:40:50 AM »I use next higher profile tyre size in my winter tyres. 185/65R15 instead of 185/60R15. That gives in theory about 9 mm more ground clearance and speedometer shows still more than actual speed, as required.
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Honda Jazz Mk3 2015-2020 / Re: bit of a lift
« Last post by Lord Voltermore on Today at 09:26:57 AM »Make sure your tyres are at the correct pressure. Back in the 'last century' recommended pressures were often in the 20's (with perhaps an option to raise them for heavier loads or high speeds) . A few drivers still cling to the old familiar lower pressures as it gives a slightly more comfortable ride - but uses more fuel.
Also compare your pressure gauge with one or two others. Some are not very accurate.
Check nothing is hanging too low underneath. Maybe an under tray is partly unclipped or an aftermarket exhaust/cat is not 'tucked away' as well as the original.
I'm dont think you will have much success improving ground clearance significantly with diffrent tyres or different sized wheels. The combination of wheel and tyre generally need approximately the same rolling circumference so that the cars overall gearing and speedometer accuracy is not affected .Thus a 15" wheel will have tyres higher side walls than a 16" wheel , with overall size roughly equal. It might be possible to gain a bit of ground clearance by fitting a non standard tyre size but any significant gain may e affect the cars gearing and driveability , and would need to be declared to insurers.
If you are due for a tyre change anyway All season tyres sometimes have about 1mm more tyre tread depth than standard (and of course a new tyre with maybe 7mm tread depth gives a slightly higher ride hight than tyres worn down to say 2mm) Its also possible that an 'XL' (extra load" version of a tyre may have slightly stiffer side walls.
If you do wish to explore options for different wheel and tyre sizes the following site includes data on any ride height gain . But i'd be wary of changing specifications.
https://www.willtheyfit.com/
No offence intended here. Although some situations are unavoidable (eg grass down the centre of the road' ) you might be able to minimise grounding by upping your hazard perception of the risk.
Cars will often ground when reaching the bottom of a dip, when the weight of the car still pointing down hill when the road rises. This can be worse if you spot the danger a bit too late and add braking to the mix. The front of the car dips even lower under braking. If you can brake and slow earlier you can actually reverse the process by accelerating just prior to crossing the hazard . The car will settle back on its springs raising front ground clearance slightly, which may be enough to avoid grounding. Time this correctly you will not have gained any significant speed when you 'hit' the hazard.
Also compare your pressure gauge with one or two others. Some are not very accurate.
Check nothing is hanging too low underneath. Maybe an under tray is partly unclipped or an aftermarket exhaust/cat is not 'tucked away' as well as the original.
I'm dont think you will have much success improving ground clearance significantly with diffrent tyres or different sized wheels. The combination of wheel and tyre generally need approximately the same rolling circumference so that the cars overall gearing and speedometer accuracy is not affected .Thus a 15" wheel will have tyres higher side walls than a 16" wheel , with overall size roughly equal. It might be possible to gain a bit of ground clearance by fitting a non standard tyre size but any significant gain may e affect the cars gearing and driveability , and would need to be declared to insurers.
If you are due for a tyre change anyway All season tyres sometimes have about 1mm more tyre tread depth than standard (and of course a new tyre with maybe 7mm tread depth gives a slightly higher ride hight than tyres worn down to say 2mm) Its also possible that an 'XL' (extra load" version of a tyre may have slightly stiffer side walls.
If you do wish to explore options for different wheel and tyre sizes the following site includes data on any ride height gain . But i'd be wary of changing specifications.
https://www.willtheyfit.com/
No offence intended here. Although some situations are unavoidable (eg grass down the centre of the road' ) you might be able to minimise grounding by upping your hazard perception of the risk.
Cars will often ground when reaching the bottom of a dip, when the weight of the car still pointing down hill when the road rises. This can be worse if you spot the danger a bit too late and add braking to the mix. The front of the car dips even lower under braking. If you can brake and slow earlier you can actually reverse the process by accelerating just prior to crossing the hazard . The car will settle back on its springs raising front ground clearance slightly, which may be enough to avoid grounding. Time this correctly you will not have gained any significant speed when you 'hit' the hazard.
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Honda Jazz Mk1 2002-2008 / Re: Powerflex Performance Bushes – Rear Trailing Arm
« Last post by CRC on Today at 07:35:41 AM »Thanks for that, I would say you did very well to do that job in 4 hours especially as I assume you were working on your knees removing and replacing the bushes.
Any problems with the big bush bolts being seized?
Any problems with the big bush bolts being seized?
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Honda Jazz Mk1 2002-2008 / Demister and AC buttons not working Jazz 2005
« Last post by Huntsman on Today at 04:18:33 AM »Hey everyone,
I’ve got a 2005 Honda Jazz, and both the rear demister and A/C buttons have stopped working.
I’ve checked all the fuses and relays, and everything seems to be in the correct place with nothing blown. I’m starting to think it could be an issue with the switches themselves, although it seems a bit unlikely that both would fail at exactly the same time.
I’m wondering if there could be some grime or dirt behind the switches that’s stopping them from making contact. I’m thinking of trying some WD-40 Contact Cleaner to see if that helps. If it works, great — I’ll let you know!
If that doesn’t work, does anyone know if it’s possible to remove the buttons/switches without taking the whole fascia off?
Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I’ve got a 2005 Honda Jazz, and both the rear demister and A/C buttons have stopped working.
I’ve checked all the fuses and relays, and everything seems to be in the correct place with nothing blown. I’m starting to think it could be an issue with the switches themselves, although it seems a bit unlikely that both would fail at exactly the same time.
I’m wondering if there could be some grime or dirt behind the switches that’s stopping them from making contact. I’m thinking of trying some WD-40 Contact Cleaner to see if that helps. If it works, great — I’ll let you know!
If that doesn’t work, does anyone know if it’s possible to remove the buttons/switches without taking the whole fascia off?
Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Honda Jazz Mk4 2020 - / Re: Air Con problem
« Last post by MikeRO on August 11, 2026, 06:51:48 PM »My Crosstar was also diagnosed with faulty ac condenser and it was replaced on extended warranty.
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Honda Jazz Mk3 2015-2020 / Re: Under bonnet.fuse/relay box label
« Last post by paulhipw on August 11, 2026, 05:31:17 PM »Are you sure the AC clutch is not clicking in.
If you look at the compressor is the clutch plate static or rotating when you turn on the AC?
Also The AC cooling fan should come on when the AC is turned on.
If you look at the compressor is the clutch plate static or rotating when you turn on the AC?
Also The AC cooling fan should come on when the AC is turned on.
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Honda Jazz Mk3 2015-2020 / Re: Under bonnet.fuse/relay box label
« Last post by TnTkr on August 11, 2026, 04:26:41 PM »Probably Honda has considered relay replacement as workshop level repair task. 
That would be in line with the non-availability of a workshop manual for GK Jazz. Honda wants to keep all repair and maintenance information strictly within Honda dealer network and to prevent users to get that information.
That would be in line with the non-availability of a workshop manual for GK Jazz. Honda wants to keep all repair and maintenance information strictly within Honda dealer network and to prevent users to get that information.
