2013 Si Boot Lock Issue

[TomFum]

Hey all

Im thinking this is a common issue, but always after heavy rain my car decided its not going to lock off the fob so i have to do it via the key. also when i use my rear wiper the car "bings" me to say the boots open. Does anyone know  a fix for this as its seriously frustrating. I took it to Honda the first time and they said there was no fault. Useless.

Cheers

[TomFum]

Well thanks for all the reply's everyone to a really common issue on the Jazz.

Ended up just pulling the sensor from the rear boot lock assembly and now the car locks fine. its a temp fix for now and now the car locks and hopefully the alarm wont keep going off.

I know im gonna have to take it to honda at some point, just gonna have to save up for abit first.

[Jocko]

The reason no one answered you is no one has ever experienced the fault you described. I had never heard about it until your post, so maybe it isn't a common Jazz fault after all.

[Westy36]

I've never heard of it either. Sounds frustrating. Have you had a check of the wiring loom in that area for breaks?

If you do locate the problem and find the fix, please do update the thread as it will help other Jazzers in the future.

[culzean]

Never heard of the fault before, certainly not a common fault  - you could try fitfreaks ( USA Jazz site ).

[TomFum]

I didnt mean to come across as an arse about it, super frustrated because even unplugging the boot sensor the alarm is still going off

Ive seen people talk about water ingress messing with the sensors when ive googled the issue and its a comment thing for the tail lid to have parts replaced.

Ive check the wiring loom going from the body to the boot lid and i cant see anything. I dont know what to do next, ilooks like im gonna have to leave the car unlocked and try get it booked into honda asap.

If i ever find the answer i will be sure to let you all know. Again sorry if i came across as rude

[123Drive!]

Sometimes going to a Honda dealer doesn't guarantee anything...I think most good recommended independent can solve problem such as good and save half the price.

[Jocko]

In my experience, a visit to a good auto electrician is the best way to solve these sort of issues. I had an airbag warning light issue with my Volvo S40. It was slow to extinguish at startup, and sometimes it didn't. Auto electrician traced it to a faulty connection to the impact sensor on a front chassis leg. He bypassed it. He told me he could have replaced the connector but felt it was an expensive repair to an old car. The repair cost £81. Not cheap but it was fixed the first time and never reoccurred.

[TomFum]

I think i may go the auto electrician route but its finding one. Cheers for the advice peeps i appreciate it.

[Jazz Hands]

same problem here, also noted the rear interior boot lamp is constantly on [we don't use the rear parcel shelf much ]


which of the three plugs did you disconnect btw ?, I disconnected all 3 but the hatch open light stayed on and assumed this had made no difference to the alarm not arming and locking

oddly if the hatch is open with ignition on, the symbol comes up on dash for hatch open, and goes out when closing [i.e. functioning fine], so beginning to think it is not related to the latch mechanism but some electrical gremlin elsewhere 

[Jazz Hands]

auto electrician just left after confirming that the issue is most likely the switch for hatch closed has failed, and is currently stuck in the open position [electrically]


According to the AUTO spark, "tailgate open" prevents the car going into sleep mode when door lock fob is activated and will quite quickly drain your battery as most of the electrical circuits remain active, from memory the battery in the Jazz is maybe 30Ah, so leaving car like this for 2 full days means flat battery, if you use your car daily  [ i.e. home for 5pm and leave for work in the early hours ] you will probably get away with it but your battery will thank you if you sort out the issue.

I am a little confused however that if the engine is running or keys in ignition and at pre starter position the warning used to come on and go off as I opened and closed the hatch [i.e. apparently functioning normally ], so maybe a relay somewhere is also contributing to the problem

anyways posted for information to confirm the temp fix, so please don't take all the above as gospel and absolute, it reflects my experience and the words of a local auto electrician

also worth noting ours is a 2010 SI and not same as original poster, but dash warnings and other factors appear to be very similar
 

[Jazz Hands]

___UPDATE___

today I stripped the whole mech out to ensure if I had to order the part I knew which one 

anyways long story short took out, took pics, identified where the closed switch is located [not where I thought from looking at online pics I might add ] and decided that this was an ideal trap point for debris and rusting up, sprayed liberally with wd40 stuck it all back together and connected everything, guess what.............


everything now works perfectly !!!

car locks, and no rear hatch warning when using rear wiper

so moral of the story, if your getting similar, remove the back plastic panel carefully [ideally not in sub zero temps ] remove the 2 hex screws, 3 electrical connectors and the hatch pull wire


take it to a bench, turn it upside down from the way it sits on the car and douse the mechanical mechanism in WD40

this may save you the cost of an auto electrician who only wants to get your car to lock again and might not be interested in investigating further