Author Topic: Clutch biting point when new  (Read 9301 times)

Jazz Hands

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  • My Honda: 2010 1.4 Si
Clutch biting point when new
« on: April 22, 2013, 04:51:21 PM »
where is it ?

recently got a 2010 1.4 Si with 14k on it and clutch bite point is pretty high, so want to make sure plenty life left in it before 30 days up since purchase

thanks in advance

moon

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Re: Clutch biting point when new
« Reply #1 on: April 22, 2013, 06:33:09 PM »
hi , if u have the late model jazz and have issues with the clutch grab point, then it is most likely that you are not used to the drive by wire (DBW) and clutch damper valve(cdv) which is a  pain in the .... . the cdv is part of the clutch master cylinder , which is designed to dampen the clutch engagement to the flywheel . i think honda installed this to prevent the flywheel, clutch assy , gearbox etc from strain / mechanical shock when the clutch is released . it takes some time getting used to driving with this type of clutch system and not forgetting the cable less throttle system which compounds the problem with a mind of its own

Jazz Hands

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Re: Clutch biting point when new
« Reply #2 on: April 22, 2013, 10:21:40 PM »
thanks for the reply, not having issues as such, just wanted to be sure its not end of life while I have the option of taking it back to supplying dealer within the no quibble guarantee period

my other car is a new BMW 1 series which has the CDV system, so kinda used to the delayed clutch feeling.
« Last Edit: April 22, 2013, 10:42:17 PM by Jazz Hands »

moon

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Re: Clutch biting point when new
« Reply #3 on: April 23, 2013, 08:52:18 PM »
Hi. imo if the cars is 3 years old now ,i think u should take advantage of that guarantee now before it expires

Jazz Hands

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Re: Clutch biting point when new
« Reply #4 on: April 24, 2013, 07:12:22 AM »
I just want a basic answer for now, my experience of a worn clutch is a high bite point and slipping, there is no slipping but as I am unfamiliar with car thought i'd ask here first

Jazz Hands

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Re: Clutch biting point when new
« Reply #5 on: April 25, 2013, 07:08:27 AM »
3 days left , so no one in here is able to offer advice ?

Spanners

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Re: Clutch biting point when new
« Reply #6 on: April 25, 2013, 08:18:20 PM »
A good way to check for a slipping clutch is to be stationary with handbrake firmly applied. Select 5th rev the engine to around 3500 rpm and release the clutch as if you are pulling away, the engine should stall easily. If you get to a point where your foot is off the clutch and the engine is still revving then it is on it's last legs.
This is not a nice thing to put your clutch through though.
You could get a local garage to check it for you, if they are any good they should be able to tell pretty much as soon as they get in if the clutch is suspect.
To be honest if you are not happy with the clutch and you got the option of a refund then I would return it.

Marnie

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Re: Clutch biting point when new
« Reply #7 on: April 25, 2013, 09:44:30 PM »
I've had my 09 EX from new and have always thought the bite point was high, but the clutch has never slipped even under heavy load at high revs such as fully loaded uphill in 2nd. Maybe we are thinking back to the days when there was always a bit of play in the pedal.

Spanners

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Re: Clutch biting point when new
« Reply #8 on: April 26, 2013, 09:25:21 AM »
The bite point on my 2010 EX is perfectly normal and takes up drive perfectly normally, now the clutch judder has been fixed.
I drive many cars and can easily tell if a clutch is wearing out which is why if you got someone experienced to check it, it would take a minute if that..
You could even try calling out the AA/RAC as a breakdown stating clutch problem and you think it is slipping..

Jazz Hands

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Re: Clutch biting point when new
« Reply #9 on: April 26, 2013, 10:04:07 AM »
I appreciate you trying to help Spanners, but as I already mentioned I know what a slipping clutch is like.

I was specifically asking about the bite point of the Jazz, as this is an unfamiliar car to me even tho I have owned a Type R, Prelude and an Accord.

It simply seemed quite high and car has only done 14k miles, and although I have a full 2 year mech breakdown [inc clutch] if I return car within 30 days the dealer will sort it out themselves.

Thanks for everyones input.

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