The infamous EGR valve problem (Honda Jazz 2002-2008)

[culzean]

the EGR would only affect low speed running,  could be a blockage in the petrol cap vent (allows petrol tank pressure to normalise after fuel gets pumped out, otherwise a vacuum will develop in the tank and affect fuel delivery) to discount this remove the fuel tank cap and drive around for a while.   Don't know why it only happens after a service though - maybe you should ask the mechanics what they are doing - just fluid changes or are they disconnecting battery for any reason (this could reset the ECU memory, which will then gradually re-learn its settings as you drive.

[guest4348]

Have had a bit of progress - replaced the throttle body which has stopped the juddering and the engine warning light has gone off.

However, the engine revs at 1800-2000 when idle. The revs don't come down when the engine is warm either.

Have tried moving the sensor on the side of the throttle body but this doesn't help.

Thoughts?

[DV]

There is a wire coming from the accelerator pedal to the throttle body, disconnect it then start the engine and see if it`s idling at the normal 640-700 rpm. If yes, than connect back the wire to the throttle body and adjust the wire tension....(loosen it).

[guest4348]

The wire is loose. Don't think that is the problem.

[guest4078]

Is the vacuum ok? Try checking the pipes for leaks. Make sure att he fuses are ok.
Have you got ETCS, or an idle air control valve. If so could be a worn seal leaking air in?

[guest4811]

just ask local honda dealer, part num: 18714-PWA-004, less then £10 for sure
http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection.php?block_01=17SAA01&block_02=E__0410&block_03=19959

Seems like I have the dreaded Jazz EGR problem starting. Which replacement gasket will be required? No 3 or No 4?

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[JazzyB]

No.4

[guest4811]

No.4

Thank you 

So it's part number 18715-PB2-000 that is required and not:

just ask local honda dealer, part num: 18714-PWA-004, less then £10 for sure
http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection.php?block_01=17SAA01&block_02=E__0410&block_03=19959

[JazzyB]

Part No.1 is the egr valve held down by Part No.6 two screws, so part no.4 is the gasket you are after.

[jazzista]

Hi all,
given the symptoms SWMBO's Jazz (about 70000Km) was presenting (high consumption, poor idling and general roughness), I decided to disassemble and inspect the EGR valve.

Of course, it was clogged and stuck.

A good vinegar bath, a tootbrush and the Jazz seems much smoother now. And on the Scangauge the mythical 0.00 LPh started appearing again 

Thanks a lot for the great DIY!!!

Stefano

[guest5043]

i will be very gr8full if you update your problem status coz i have exactly the same problem and noone seem to know what is it.
p.s. it is not the alternator or a battery. im thinking of spark plugs cables or something in the air system
and the replay was for 112 comment

[guest5337]

Thought I would post my experiences with this.

Australian Honda Jazz 2005 GD1 1.3L, 80,000km.
Issue was bucking at rev ranges between 1300 to 2500 RPM. Only happened when engine was warm.

Initially my googling led me to this thread as the issue sounded similar. Took EGR off cleaned with carbon cleaner and the issue went a way for a day. Thought that meant the EGR was the problem. Next day problem is back.
Issue got progressively worse till car stalled when warm cruising at speed. Engine light came on, then next day went off.

Took it to a mechanic who said OBD gave error P0339 - Crank Angle Sensor problem - advised taking to Honda for fixing.

After more googling found this thread
https://nzhondas.com/tech-help/121578-honda-fit-jerking-stalling.html
Possibly bad spark plugs - the issue only happening when cold kinda pointed to this problem.

Fabricated EGS blanking plate and installed - bucking still there.
Next step simply unplugged ignition coil from back spark plug - these are closest to the exhaust and so would die first. Drove car and not jerking!

Replaced 1 ignition coil - $40AUD from ebay, and problem is fixed.

[guest1521]

Exactly the same symptoms as you on my daughter's Jazz in NZ. Including the mouth-opening stall at cruising speed and engine light came on. Thoroughly cleaned EGR. No improvement. Then changed the (eight) spark plugs. All fixed.... and fine weeks and miles later!

[culzean]

The bigger the gap in a spark plug the more voltage is required from coil to create a spark.  In a spark coil the voltage will continue to rise until it can discharge, if plugs are not changed at required intervals and gaps get very wide this can cause voltage stress on coil  electrical insulation and cause failure.  One of the posters on the NZ (Croc) site actually said that despite being serviced by Honda NZ dealer he had seen plugs that had never been changed, gaps were huge and the coils 'arced' (flashed over and damaged insulation).

Wonder how many garages even know about existence of rear plugs, let alone bother to change them - could be why rear coils fail,  not because of exhaust heat but from large gaps in rear plugs causing excess voltage and insulation failure in coil.  If I was replacing plugs in a GD I would definitely pay extra to get Iridium plugs which can last up to 70K because Iridium resists erosion by spark which is the culprit in opening up the plug gap.  Iridium plugs come as standard on GE and onwards, if an NGK plug has 'I' as first letter this denotes Iridium.

[guest5360]

When I bought my new EGR valve from Honda dealer they asked my reg. no. only. On the old EGR valve I had F1 written (moulded in) on but on the new (upgraded) part I had F2.
Part no.: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/18635761/EGR/CIMG3236.JPG
New and old: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/18635761/EGR/CIMG3268.JPG.

The EGR valve present on my 2008 Honda Jazz has got a F4 printed in the rusty bit.

Is it safe to say that it is one of the upgraded and good parts?

Thanks in advance.