I’ve been reading the forum for the last year so I thought I should recount my recent experience of changing the spark plugs and checking the valve clearances on our 2010 Si.
We bought the car second hand in May of last year when it had 35,900 miles on the clock along with two main dealer services and three independent. I plan on doing all future maintenance on the car as when we part exchanged our old one we got nothing more for a garage service history (well as much as I am able to without specialist tools and equipment). Previously we had a 2004 SE for 11 years from new.
I'm no mechanic but have courtesy of the Internet learnt how to service cars and change disk brakes and pads etc.
As the car was coming up to six years old and despite only having 43,500 miles on the clock I thought I'd change the plugs as well as the usual oil/air/pollen filters. This then got me thinking that perhaps I should do the valve clearances as well (though to be fair I don't think they were ever done during the 117,000 miles that we did in our old car despite paying for it!).
As you need to remove the wipers and windscreen cowl to get access to the plugs, I thought there seems little point in doing them separately.
Usual provisos apply ie if following any of this you do so at your own risk.
With the help of this link
http://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-generation-ge8-specific-diy-repair-maintenance-sub-forum/75306-diy-valve-clearance-check-2.htmland this link for the torque values/valve clearances
http://hondafitjazz.com/manual3/and the purchase of these clips
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-MOULDING-CLIP-8mm-OEM-90602-TAO-003-Pack-of-20-/321604385341and a long extension bar set to turn the crank over
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/pro-55-5-pce-1-2in-drive-ext-wobble-b/and finally a set of these bent feeler gauges (as they cover the whole range)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-2482-Feeler-Blades-Offset/dp/B0039UPVWK/ref=sr_1_sc_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1461414686&sr=1-2-spell&keywords=laser+offset+felerI purchased all of the service parts except for the oil from Cox Motor Parts.
I haven't been able to insert the photos in the correct paragraphs but hopefully they will make sense - fingers crossed. You will need to be logged in to view them.
It took me around an hour to remove everything to enable me to do the plugs and the valves. Firstly I marked the position of the wipers on the windscreen with masking tape to make refitting a doddle.
Next came the problem of removing the wiper arms from the spindles. After spraying a little penetrating oil I then improvised with two cable ties to form two loops to help pull the arms up and off without damaging the plastic cowl or the metal arms. I hope you can make them out in the photo.
I then removed the two black plastic pins at either side of the engine bay that hold the cowl down. An interior trim removal tool makes this relatively easy.
Removing the main cowl was what concerned me the most but with a bit of gentle prying up (from the windscreen side) I was able to pop off all of the fittings (breaking one in the process and white stressing another). The clips on the engine bay side then come off by gently pulling the cowl forward. See photo
I also removed the much smaller cover that goes a little way up the windscreen on the drivers side (UK). Again there's another black plastic pin to remove from the engine bay. The cover is removed from the top down. Firstly depress the top and gently pull it across the windscreen which should release a rubber pad and then gently pry the cover up working towards the bottom. The white clip should pop off then it's just a case of wriggling it out. See photos.
Removing the wiper motor and metal cowl beneath was very straightforward. See the links for more info.
With all this out of the way there is reasonable access to the coil packs and the spark plugs. However as I was going to do the valve clearances as well I removed the air filter box (no need to remove or even loosen the battery or its carrier). Undo the throttle body, remove the inlet manifold and finally the valve cover. All of this is straightforward and very well described in the fit freaks link above. I just put all of the bolts etc in different old ice cream cartons to make sure I didn't mislay/misplace anything on reassembly.
I removed the coil packs and the plugs to make turning over the engine easier. I then covered the spark plug openings to make sure no dirt etc dropped inside them.
I was nervous about checking the valve clearances as I've not done it since I had a motorbike over 30 years ago.
With a long extension bar all you need to do is turn your wheels all the way over to the right to gain access to a star shaped hole in the plastic wheel arch liner (RHS) which lets you access the crank. Obviously at this stage you can't start the engine but the wheels will turn. Alternatively put them in this position before dismantling anything. Always turn the crank clockwise!
To start off I made sure I could identify the cylinder markings/numbers on the crank/timing chain wheel. I then checked all of the valve clearances without adjusting any of them to get an idea of what they all felt like. Armed with this I then repeated the job but this time tried to fit the next size up feeler gauge into the respective gap ie the one above the manufactures recommendation. If it fitted I then adjusted the valve to where it wouldn't but the next size, one or two down, would thereby giving the correct manufacture's tolerance. By my reckoning I thought I could not do any damage this way. Do check the firing order: its in the online manual link above.
None of them where out by very much. From memory six or seven were which where mostly on the exhaust side. I think I adjusted a couple of inlet ones. Once I had done this I then went through the process of going through them all again just to double check. Finally I then tightened all the locking nuts to the correct torque.
After replacing the plugs I then reassembled everything (including a couple of dabs of Hondabond on the cylinder head, cleaning the throttle body with a bit of carburettor cleaner and replacing the two damaged clips) making sure everything was torqued to the correct specification. I was able to reuse the valve head cover gasket. Make sure you also replace all hoses (they are all air - no coolant) including the one on the back of the valve cover, reconnect all electrical connectors etc. It pays to be methodical and have no distractions. I have to admit here I forgot to connect the wiper motor electrical connector!! So had to remove the cowl a second time - very frustrating but worth passing on.
In total this took me almost five hours on top of the previous hour of disassembling everything so set aside a whole day. It's a straightforward job that I would now happily do again though am thankful I won't need to for at least another six years!
Then the moment of truth! The car fired up and sounded just as before. Well to be fair my wife thinks the car is smoother - probably just the fresh oil. I think the engine is fractionally quieter on tick over. Only time will tell if the mpg is any better.
Am I pleased I did it and would I do it again? Yes though having done it I would say the spark plugs are capable of 60,000 miles (we run the car on Shell V power only because it's smoother than on regular). By then the valve clearances might be out a little more so I can see why Honda say do them at 75,000 miles.
Hopefully this article along with the links above will help any others of you out there looking at doing either of these jobs.
[attachment deleted by admin]
