Author Topic: Manual transmission fluid never changed, should I?  (Read 2991 times)

JazzyJazz1

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Re: Manual transmission fluid never changed, should I?
« Reply #15 on: September 22, 2021, 10:35:14 AM »
please remember when the A/C is on the cooling fans will cut in.. could this be the noise your hearing ?

It is not the fan. It is for sure the AC compressor. Its this silver device with a belt attached to it. It makes a squeeking noise when I turn the AC on. Once the engine warm ups and you drive for a while the noise is lower but still there. Its either the belt or the compressor I think... Can change the belt or these things that they run on (forgot the name) but im not really fond of buying a new compressor haha... AC would be nice in Italy though. For now its working fine but I try not to turn it on too often because im affraid I break something... Dealer said: "its normal for these cars" Im not sure what to make of that hahaha

fashionphotography

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Re: Manual transmission fluid never changed, should I?
« Reply #16 on: September 22, 2021, 04:22:38 PM »
i would say any noise isnt normal? maybe try fitting a new belt.. especially if its gone dry .. you could try spraying a bit of WD40 on the pullys and belt while its running see if that cures the noise.. dont worry it wont make it slip just soften it up for a bit.

culzean

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Re: Manual transmission fluid never changed, should I?
« Reply #17 on: September 22, 2021, 04:35:35 PM »
i would say any noise isnt normal? maybe try fitting a new belt.. especially if its gone dry .. you could try spraying a bit of WD40 on the pullys and belt while its running see if that cures the noise.. dont worry it wont make it slip just soften it up for a bit.

Dryness is not a problem that modern microV belts suffer from and putting WD 40 gunk anywhere near them is not a good idea.  You can tell when belt is failing if it is cracking across the belt or serious fraying along edges.  Unlike later MK2 onwards which have spring loaded auto tension, the MK 1 is manually tensioned by pivoting alternator. Unfortunately the belt tension needs to be checked on bottom run of belt, which is a PITA to access.
Some people will only consider you an expert if they agree with your point of view or advice,  when you give them advice they don't like they consider you an idiot

fashionphotography

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Re: Manual transmission fluid never changed, should I?
« Reply #18 on: September 22, 2021, 04:41:39 PM »
i used to often suffer dry belt squeel on many cars . as all garages do just spraying a bit of WD40  often cures if for a while.. i found best cure was smearing some silicone grease on the belts and that helps them last a lot longer. but yes if any of the grooves are damaged or broken its time to replace it

culzean

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Re: Manual transmission fluid never changed, should I?
« Reply #19 on: September 22, 2021, 07:40:46 PM »
i used to often suffer dry belt squeel on many cars . as all garages do just spraying a bit of WD40  often cures if for a while.. i found best cure was smearing some silicone grease on the belts and that helps them last a lot longer. but yes if any of the grooves are damaged or broken its time to replace it

I guessing the WD and silicone allow the belt to slip, but stop the noise,like tyres do not squeal on ice.....

When the old single V belts were made from rubber the petroleum based stuff like WD would degrade the rubber and make it sticky, stopping the squeal temporarily, but modern multi V belts made from polyurethane or synthetic rubber so not affected by oils, so any lubricant will just destroy the friction they depend on to do their job.
« Last Edit: September 22, 2021, 09:07:22 PM by culzean »
Some people will only consider you an expert if they agree with your point of view or advice,  when you give them advice they don't like they consider you an idiot

JazzyJazz1

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Re: Manual transmission fluid never changed, should I?
« Reply #20 on: September 23, 2021, 09:19:23 AM »
i used to often suffer dry belt squeel on many cars . as all garages do just spraying a bit of WD40  often cures if for a while.. i found best cure was smearing some silicone grease on the belts and that helps them last a lot longer. but yes if any of the grooves are damaged or broken its time to replace it

I guessing the WD and silicone allow the belt to slip, but stop the noise,like tyres do not squeal on ice.....

When the old single V belts were made from rubber the petroleum based stuff like WD would degrade the rubber and make it sticky, stopping the squeal temporarily, but modern multi V belts made from polyurethane or synthetic rubber so not affected by oils, so any lubricant will just destroy the friction they depend on to do their job.

Thanks so much to both of you for your insight! I do also think its not that wise to spray wd40 on belts... Yeah maybe a bit just  carefully on the turning mechanism of the pulley. (thanks for reminding me what they are called, not a native english speaker here) So yeah, will check tension, state of belt and potentially pulleys and also brand new Honda MTF3 in my gearbox! Hopefully she'll run for a few years like that!

Maybe last little point: like many Jazz'es there is a bit of rust on the back door and some little spots here and there. How do you guys tackle the rust problem on your Jazz? I do not mind the paint at all, my car is full of scratches and little dents anyway, im all about mechanics being ok. Beauty doesn't make you go from A to B. My guess would be a bit sandpaper, cleaning and then potentially spray a bit of paint and then protective coating? Im also looking into spraying the rubber suspension parts with this "rubber spray" that keeps the rubber soft and last longer to avoid leaking / suspension problems. Lastly maybe replace the pollen filter behind the dash storage (I think its there). That's pretty much it. (sorry for being off topic, this website is just too helpful and you all are very knowledgeable, i'm grateful!)

bus_ter

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Re: Manual transmission fluid never changed, should I?
« Reply #21 on: September 23, 2021, 09:51:34 AM »
i used to often suffer dry belt squeel on many cars . as all garages do just spraying a bit of WD40  often cures if for a while.. i found best cure was smearing some silicone grease on the belts and that helps them last a lot longer. but yes if any of the grooves are damaged or broken its time to replace it


Maybe last little point: like many Jazz'es there is a bit of rust on the back door and some little spots here and there. How do you guys tackle the rust problem on your Jazz? I do not mind the paint at all, my car is full of scratches and little dents anyway, im all about mechanics being ok. Beauty doesn't make you go from A to B. My guess would be a bit sandpaper, cleaning and then potentially spray a bit of paint and then protective coating? Im also looking into spraying the rubber suspension parts with this "rubber spray" that keeps the rubber soft and last longer to avoid leaking / suspension problems. Lastly maybe replace the pollen filter behind the dash storage (I think its there). That's pretty much it. (sorry for being off topic, this website is just too helpful and you all are very knowledgeable, i'm grateful!)

So I have the same exterior signs of rust creeping in on the rear wheel arches. Fronts are ok so far. When I take the wheels off and inspect the area where the brakes/suspensions etc all mount to it's very rusty, There are guides on youtube on how to repair wheel arch rust, which is one of the most common areas on any car. Probably treating it early before you need to start using body filler would be best. In anycase it's the rust underneath in the structural areas you can't see that are the real worries.

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