Clubjazz - Honda Jazz & HR-V Forums
Honda Jazz Forums => Honda Jazz Mk1 2002-2008 => Topic started by: bus_ter on April 29, 2020, 04:40:52 PM
-
Hi,
I changed the front brakes this morning. Both the Discs and Pads. I bought Bosch branded parts from Eurocar parts. Went with Bosch hoping for high quality, but still a big saving over original Honda parts.
I've never changed brakes before. I watched a lot of YouTube videos and guides and felt confident with the process.
All went well until fitting the new pads back into the metal clips in the caliper. (My new Bosch pads did not come with new clips). The pads were a very tight fit on one side of the caliper and a little tight on the other side. I cleaned up the clips and rubbed away on the caliper under the clips to make a little more room. Still the pads felt tight. Reassembling the brakes and going for a test drive I have a rubbing noise coming from one side. It's a sort of pulsing sound that you can hear at low speed. The brakes otherwise seem to work.
My thought is that the pads may be stuck in the clips and not moving properly? Or could it be something else?
I went to try and order some new clips. I found a Honda part number (45237SAAE51). This appears to be for just one clip, and the Honda diagram appears to show one of these clips at each side of the caliper. However my existing clips are different at each end. One side has a sort of spring part folded back. I'm not sure if I have an aftermarket clip on that came with the pads and is a different design to the Honda clips, or indeed the Honda clips come as a pair and they are also different.
Any help here would be much appreciated!
-
Never changed any pads ( even genuine Honda ) where I didn't have to reduce the width of pad 'ears' - when you stamp out thick metal like the pad backing plates the sides of the stamping is not parallel but tapered. I just parallel them up so that there is about half a mm of clearance and use the high melting point molybdenum grease normally supplied in small sachets with pads where the ears slide in the stainless clip in shims on caliper. Do not use moly grease on caliper slide pins though, use something like TRW PFG110 - which is not petroleum based ( petroleum lubricants will swell and degrade the rubber seals ).
If the pad ears are tight to start with, and they corrode ( which is inevitable ) they get tighter and do not slide to equalise pressure on pad, this means the piston side ( inner ) pads wear quickly and the outer pads ( the ones you can see ) do not wear.. it is important that the pad ears and caliper pins are free to slide easily. Also check that the rubber concertina bellows on slide pins are not split and are seated properly on the boss at each end, if water and dirt can get in the pins will probably seize up.
When you buy Honda pads you do get all the clips and shims and also new caliper bolts with blue threadlock paint on the thread, and sachets of molybdenum grease . The stainless clips are there to provide a smooth, non-rusting sliding surface for pads and to stop the pad ears creating grooves and dents in the caliper face when braking load forces ears against caliper, which could stop pads sliding properly.
-
Hi There. The metal clips are there to stop the pads being loose and wearing premarturly, when you put new discs on did you check for any rust bumps on disc mating face?. As these need to very flat then check any run out by turning disc around with a dti ( dial test indicator ) if ok then install cailpers and pads. So the noise could be run out of discs as it's turning ( touching not touching then touching again being repeated ). Or lip on old discs catching first but seeing as you put on new discs give that a miss, Can you jack up the side that is making a noise, then turn tyre and listen for noise
-
Never changed any pads ( even genuine Honda ) where I didn't have to reduce the width of pad 'ears' - when you stamp out thick metal like the pad backing plates the sides of the stamping is not parallel but tapered. I just parallel them up so that there is about half a mm of clearance.
After watching 4-5 YouTube videos on changing brakes, not a single one mentioned this! Do you use a metal file? I don't think I have the tools to do this (vice etc)
it is important that the pad ears and caliper pins are free to slide easily. Also check that the rubber concertina bellows on slide pins are not split and are seated properly on the boss at each end, if water and dirt can get in the pins will probably seize up.
They certainly do not slide easily in the clips. They're wedged in there a bit. Is this likely to be my problem here? It seems like it to me. I removed the caliper pins, cleaned them up and used a special lube for them. They seem to move back and forth quite easily and the rubber boot stretches (concentias) with the pin. I'm not sure if it's relevant, but when fully pushed in, one of the rubber bellows pushes in so it's ribbed, one pushes in with some of the ribs folded 'outwards'. When the pins are pulled out they look the same.
When you buy Honda pads you do get all the clips and shims and also new caliper bolts with blue threadlock paint on the thread, and sachets of molybdenum grease .
I'm tempted to just order some if it will give me an easier time, and put the Bosch ones down as a loss and experience mistake. I've been trying to find just the clips online.
when you put new discs on did you check for any rust bumps on disc mating face?. As these need to very flat then check any run out by turning disc around with a dti ( dial test indicator ) if ok then install cailpers and pads. So the noise could be run out of discs as it's turning ( touching not touching then touching again being repeated ). Or lip on old discs catching first but seeing as you put on new discs give that a miss, Can you jack up the side that is making a noise, then turn tyre and listen for noise
I wire brushed the face down, sprayed with brake cleaner, painted on some copper slip and put on the new discs. I don't have a dti tool to check. I haven't lifted the wheel since going for the test drive. The wheels did spin freely before I put the car down and pumped the brakes. If it stops raining I will try this. What will I learn from doing this that I don't already know from hearing the 'pulsing' rubbing noise while driving at slow speeds?
-
It is possible to make a big saving on brakes by buying Honda pads from somewhere like cox motor parts every second change to get new shims etc. and discs from Eurocaparts - I fitted Eicher discs to rear of wifes MK2 and they have not gone rusty line the original ones and 2 years later some more honda ones, both lots of Honda rear discs went incredibly rusty ( I mean deep pitted rust not surface rust) - bu the Eicher ones are fine, and have been for ages now. You don't need a vise to file down ears, just a reasonable file - not much metal to remove you can hold pad in hand and just take a bit at a time off and trying it in the caliper, as I said about 0.5mm ( or 20 thou in old money ) free movement is perfect - I do this when I replace pads and have never, ever had a pad stick in the caliper and cause bad brake performance and uneven pad wear - it is important for the pads to move freely when first fitted ( they may be on there for several years exposed to water and salt - if they are tight to start with they don't get any better, in fact with a bit of corrosion thrown in they can get much tighter and even seize up).
https://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/honda/honda-jazz/2002-2008-jazz/2002-2008-jazz-brake-pads-discs/
in fact at the moment Honda pads at Cox are actually cheaper than the Bosch ones from Eurocarparts
https://www.eurocarparts.com/brake-pads
-
I've taken your advice Culzean. I ordered the original Honda pads. I figure with new clips and parts I'll be able to put these Bosch pads in down the line and not waste them. Hopefully the clips will solve the problem.
-
I have genuine Honda pads for both front and rears that I will install when the weather improves. There are no pad retaining clips in either boxes, so am wondering do I source these from another supplier or just re-use the old ones ?
-
I have genuine Honda pads for both front and rears that I will install when the weather improves. There are no pad retaining clips in either boxes, so am wondering do I source these from another supplier or just re-use the old ones ?
I used to get genuine Honda pads all the time, up until a couple of years ago I was covering over 25K miles a year and used to get through a few sets - they always had all the clips and shims and new bolts. When I replaced rear discs and brakes on wifes MK2 I a while ago I used Brembo pads and Eicher discs - the Brembo pads came with only a sachet of grease and some anti-squeal shims only. I have just contacted Cox Motor parts to ask if genuine Honda pads still come with all the clips, shims and bolts.
-
Hi There, I always reuse the clips even if they slightly rusty made of stainless sprung steel. You should get with pads sachet of grease and new bolts, I generally use copper grease and locite used bolts if new ones not in pack.
-
I have genuine Honda pads for both front and rears that I will install when the weather improves. There are no pad retaining clips in either boxes
:o :o Don't say that! Where did you get them from?! I don't want to have just wasted £60
-
Cox sell the clips but not plain if price is for 1 or a set of 4
https://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/honda-shop/genuine-honda-jazz-front-brake-pad-retainer-2002-2008/
part number 45237SAAE51
checked on Honda parts site and the same price and part number is for a set of 4 – so Cox part looks good for set of 4 at just over £8
https://www.parts-honda.uk/honda-cars/JAZZ/2006/14-SE/STEERING-BRAKE-SUSPENSION/FRONT-BRAKE/17SAA601/B__2200/4/22058
-
Did you get a reply from your email?
They dispatched my brake pads today so they could possibly come tomorrow.
See the section on my original post about the clips. The Honda part number shows the same clip for both the top and bottom of the caliper. The clips I have on at the moment are different top and bottom.
I really hope these new pads come with clips!
EDIT: The link above is for one clip. It just adds 4 to the basket as the default choice. Again it suggests the Honda clips are different to what I have fitted. I really don't want to spend £32 on clips on top of what I've already paid (so far £100 on two sets of pads!)
-
Did you get a reply from your email?
They dispatched my brake pads today so they could possibly come tomorrow.
See the section on my original post about the clips. The Honda part number shows the same clip for both the top and bottom of the caliper. The clips I have on at the moment are different top and bottom.
I really hope these new pads come with clips!
EDIT: The link above is for one clip. It just adds 4 to the basket as the default choice. Again it suggests the Honda clips are different to what I have fitted. I really don't want to spend £32 on clips on top of what I've already paid (so far £100 on two sets of pads!)
I have not had a reply from Cox motors yet.
No what I said was that the Honda part number is for a set of 4 clips for front brakes, they come as a set of 4 ( clarified on Honda site ) - the set is given a single part number but it covers a full set of 4 clips for just over £8. The Cox motor site was a bit confusing but obviously by '1' in the qty box for that part number you get '1' full set of 4 clips, the Honda site makes it obvious you get a set of 4 clips if you order that part number, and the part number is the same as the Cox motor one.
There is a note on Cox site saying clips are not a stock item at Cox and would have to be ordered from Honda, which may add a day or two.
-
Thanks for clearing that up. It was a little confusing, especially with the second site you listed wanting to add 4 to the basket.
Fingers crossed they come tomorrow with the clips. The car as it is can't really be driven, not without me refitting the old stuff! Fortunately I'm not needing to go anywhere right now..
-
Before you refit everything, make sure the surfaces under the shims are absolutely spotless. Remove the hard scale with a flat scraper and a wire brush until they are bright and flat, and finish with blow off and a light smear of copper grease.
Unless the shims have lost their springy, you should be able to clean and reuse the old ones. Clean them up with a bit of petrol or brake cleaner, they are stainless and shouldn't need anything more abrasive than a scotchbrite pad.
If the pads are still tight in the shims, take them out and have make absolutely sure you have removed all the scale from the caliper surfaces. These Honda calipers are prone to corrosion under the shims, and there's very little leeway with the pads. If you get all the scale off, the pads should slide in without any bodging.
-
I replaced my brake pad retainer clips last year due to rubbing sound, I noticed the scoring on the disc and shining metal on retainer clip from the rubbing. My old retainer clips per wheel were different top/bottom. The new clips are identical top/bottom. Part no 45237-SAA-E51. Each clip cost £6.92 + vat from my local dealer. So it does not matter when fitting new clip top/bottom, just make sure you fit the clip central in the carrier bracket. My new honda pads were only supplied with grease, and no clips, for the price they charge, they should include retainer clips.
-
I replaced my brake pad retainer clips last year due to rubbing sound, I noticed the scoring on the disc and shining metal on retainer clip from the rubbing. My old retainer clips per wheel were different top/bottom. The new clips are identical top/bottom. Part no 45237-SAA-E51. Each clip cost £6.92 + vat from my local dealer. So it does not matter when fitting new clip top/bottom, just make sure you fit the clip central in the carrier bracket. My new honda pads were only supplied with grease, and no clips, for the price they charge, they should include retainer clips.
Hope they haven't resorted to cost cutting measures, I always used to get genuine Honda pads for many years ( last set I bought would be about 2 years ago from Cox ) and they always came with everything you needed - as I said, new anti-rattle clips, adhesive anti-squeal shims, new bolts and grease. Mind you with all the aftermarket pads on the market Honda would not be selling many full price kits - Oh well.... can't really blame them for downsizing the pad kit - you get grease even with cheapest pads now ( as well as an instruction sheet big enough to paper your lounge with instructions in all the languages recognised by the UN, but in the smallest print only ants wearing spectacles could read).
-
I am quite lucky. So far I have done 40,000 miles, and the pads still have plenty of life left in them. I have no idea how long they were on the car prior to me buying it (I'll have to sift through the receipts).
-
I am quite lucky. So far I have done 40,000 miles, and the pads still have plenty of life left in them. I have no idea how long they were on the car prior to me buying it (I'll have to sift through the receipts).
Not sure how much is down to luck and how much is down to your driving style and economic use of the brakes Jocko. I do know that since I got my hybrid (and therefore essential automatic) Toyota the consumption has gone down and brake use has gone down.
-
Hi There, I will be checking front and rear pads for wear amount in the next 2 weeks, If they need changing i'll get
them from Euro Car Parts that's where i get all my car service parts. Only problem is they list a couple of choices for said part, and somtimes they are not correct type for the car. So i keep list of ref part numbers for future use.
-
Right. This is not going well.
The pads arrived and they *Do Not* come with the clips. I called Cox and they said they cannot get the clips. They do not stock them and Honda are closed down at the moment.
The Honda clips are *Different* to the clips I have on my car. I wonder if this is why my pads would not fit properly (I don't know?).
I've now got two sets of pads and I'm no closer to getting this problem resolved.
I cleaned up the existing clips. They fit the old pads better than the new pads. I haven't tried the Honda pads as I'm deciding if I should return them or not.
What should I do now ????
-
Right. This is not going well.
The pads arrived and they *Do Not* come with the clips. I called Cox and they said they cannot get the clips. They do not stock them and Honda are closed down at the moment.
The Honda clips are *Different* to the clips I have on my car. I wonder if this is why my pads would not fit properly (I don't know?).
I've now got two sets of pads and I'm no closer to getting this problem resolved.
I cleaned up the existing clips. They fit the old pads better than the new pads. I haven't tried the Honda pads as I'm deciding if I should return them or not.
What should I do now ????
The older pads 'ears' have probably been flattened a bit due to repeated braking putting pressure on the metal.
return the new pads unopened and dress down the ears on the Bosch pads to slide easily, when you refit the anti-rattle clips make sure they are clear of the discs.
Just did a check on the Honda website by putting the clips in basket and checking price and they are about £9 each, that is robbery with violence - if i had paid that I would clean up and reuse them for ever... se attached PDF
-
If it were me I'd return the Honda pads for refund and stick with the ones you've already tried fitting. There should be no need to file pads to fit but you should always clean the calliper bracket with a file to completely remove any rust behind the stainless hardware - this is the pinch point which in most cases will prevent smooth operation.
Unless you've bent the hardware getting it off, or they were the wrong ones in the first place there's no reason you shouldn't be able to reuse after a really good clean up to remove brake dust or dirt build up. If a little bent you can easily get it back in to shape with a gentle tweek.
Otherwise if you look beyond ECP you'll find other motor factors that can supply a set of replacement caliper hardware for both sides for under a tenner. Auto Doc carry a good range, but will sting you on their flat rate delivery for such a low cost part (ship from Germany). You can use the site to get the supplier part numbers though and search elsewhere closer to home - dependant on who's open of course...
-
If it were me I'd return the Honda pads for refund and stick with the ones you've already tried fitting. There should be no need to file pads to fit but you should always clean the calliper bracket with a file to completely remove any rust behind the stainless hardware - this is the pinch point which in most cases will prevent smooth operation.
+1
-
The older pads 'ears' have probably been flattened a bit due to repeated braking putting pressure on the metal.
return the new pads unopened and dress down the ears on the Bosch pads to slide easily, when you refit the anti-rattle clips make sure they are clear of the discs.
Just did a check on the Honda website by putting the clips in basket and checking price and they are about £9 each, that is robbery with violence - if i had paid that I would clean up and reuse them for ever... se attached PDF
I told you they were priced for one. You were so confident with your answer you convinced me otherwise!
Anyway I have parts confusion now.
The part that Honda say should be used with the Jazz/Fit is '45237-SAA-E51'. This is a different clip to what is currently fitted to my car. This is also the part listed on the Cox Honda site.
The Auto Doc site says the Jazz uses a more common part '45012-570-000'. This Honda part seems to fit various Honda vehicles, mostly civics. Third party 'copies' of this clip are widely available and it looks like the clips I have currently fitted. It's an obviously different design and has an extra 'folded back spring arm' on one side of the pair of clips.
So what's happening here? Is an incorrect clip being circulated as compatible with the Jazz when in fact it's not exactly right? Hence the problem alfy and others like myself are having?
I compared the Honda pads to the old pads I took off the car. The 'ears' are very worn down when put next to the Honda pads. A good 1-2mm.
I don't know now if I should get a metal file and cut down my Bosch pad ears to match? I don't like 'botching' a job to make it fit. I wondering if I should pay the stupid amount of money to get the correct Honda part clips and do the job properly? Though currently it seems impossible to get this part from anywhere.
-
I don't know now if I should get a metal file and cut down my Bosch pad ears to match? I don't like 'botching' a job to make it fit. I wondering if I should pay the stupid amount of money to get the correct Honda part clips and do the job properly? Though currently it seems impossible to get this part from anywhere.
I see what you mean about the extra flaps on the shims. I suppose you could simply cut them off if they are causing trouble, but it seems a bit odd. Even the Blue Print shims seem to have them, and they are usually a match for OEM parts, or actually OEM parts. Is it possible that Honda have also changed the design on these?
As for the old pads, the tabs will will be worn, or may even have been previously filed to fit - I would only do that as an absolute last resort. If all the scale is removed from the caliper brackets and the shims are in reasonable shape, they should fit. No matter where the pads are from, they don't accidentally make them too big - in 30 years, I've never had to file pads to make them fit.
I prefer a scraper to a file to remove the scale, but it can take a bit of persistence. It's easier to feel the difference between hard scale and caliper with a scraper, it will not damage the cast steel of the caliper, with reasonable care.
-
In my experience, I have never had to file pads. My son-in-law, a mechanic, has changed pads on previous cars of mine and never filed them either. He just cleans out the calliper. Another good tip he gave me was to use a scraper (or a heavy screwdriver) to remove the build-up on the edges of the disc. He just spins the hub and holds the tool against the rusty build up like a wood lathe. It works a treat.
-
I see what you mean about the extra flaps on the shims. I suppose you could simply cut them off if they are causing trouble, but it seems a bit odd. Even the Blue Print shims seem to have them, and they are usually a match for OEM parts, or actually OEM parts. Is it possible that Honda have also changed the design on these?
As for the old pads, the tabs will will be worn, or may even have been previously filed to fit - I would only do that as an absolute last resort.
So I've been reading around and found more information about these clips. A post (linked below) on a Honda Fit forum has some good info and photos. He has a late 2007 GD Jazz, and discovered the clips with his third party pads were different than the original Honda clips. To get them to fit he had to bend them slightly and file down the pad ears to fit. The extra flap/spring on these clips doubles the thickness of the clips, so that's about 1mm of less space provided for the pads.
The odd thing is that this clip is designed for a range of Civic cars. On a third party compatibility list it shows a long list of Honda Civic models and then a single model (GD) of Jazz at the bottom. However Honda themselves clearly list two different part numbers for that range of Civic and the Jazz (part numbers I posted above). Unfortunately nobody seem to make a copy of the Jazz part number, only the Civic part number. I wonder if someone decided the Civic part was 'close enough', and it's been circulated widely as compatible with our Jazz?
As I mentioned above the old pads I removed are quite substantially filled down to fit. I don't really want a botch job with the pads. Presumably once pad ears have been filed down to bare metal they are subject to corrosion which will only encourage them to seize up in the clips.
I can buy these Civic clips for £7 off eBay. They're widely made by many brands. At this point I would be quite happy to spend the frankly ridiculous £32ish on a set of original correct part number Jazz clips, just so I know the job has been done properly. However in the current climate I simply can't buy them!
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-generation-gd-01-08/95048-front-brake-pads-fit-2007-a.html
-
Further Update.
I decided to buy the eBay Civic clips (£7 delivered).
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Pad-Fitting-Kit-fits-HONDA-CIVIC-EH9-1-6-Front-91-to-95-ADL-Quality-New/233534568916?
Notice under 'Applicable Vehicles' in the description you see the Jazz GD listed among all the Civic models.
However if you use the eBay compatibility system they're NOT compatible with the Jazz.
For £7 I figure they are worth trying. I'll clean up the calipers behind the clips really well and try them on. If I'm not happy with the pad fit, then I'll just wait until I can get the correct part direct from Honda. Presumably there are a lot of Jazz's out there driving around on these clips without major issue..
-
I decided to buy the eBay Civic clips (£7 delivered).
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Pad-Fitting-Kit-fits-HONDA-CIVIC-EH9-1-6-Front-91-to-95-ADL-Quality-New/233534568916?
These Blue Print clips are specifically for the Jazz, but they are exactly the same thing. I'm sure they will be common to quite a few Honda models of the era.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Pad-Fitting-Kit-fits-HONDA-JAZZ-Mk2-1-2-Front-02-to-08-ADL-Quality-New/333503603878
-
Good spot. I don't know how I didn't find that listing. Anyway I'm fairly sure it's the exact same part I ordered above, they've just taken the Jazz instead of the civic off the compatibility list for the title.
-
Had a reply from Cox motors about Honda brake pads... confirmed they do not supply the anti-rattle clips ( which we sort of knew ) but do not even supply new bolts any more.
They really have gone in for cost cutting, makes no sense now to buy Honda pads because they only supply pads and anti-squeal shims for rear of pads, just like any set from Eurocarparts or ebay .
-
Thanks Culzean,
My new clips arrived. They do indeed look like the ones currently fitted (different to Honda original). I'm waiting on a set of different sized metal files to arrive. I want to be absolutely sure behind the back of the clips is all cleaned up. Hopefully arrive in a day or two and I'll redo the brakes. I'll report back.
-
**** UPDATE *****
Filed the inside of the calipers and cleaned them right up to smooth bare metal. Painted a thin layer of copper slip and fitted in the new metal clips. Pads now moving more freely. Quick test drive and no noises. Seems to be sorted! I'm back at work tomorrow so just in time.
-
I was under the impression that Copaslip should not be used on vehicles with ABS. White Brake Grease being used instead. Is that the case or not?
-
I was under the impression that Copaslip should not be used on vehicles with ABS. White Brake Grease being used instead. Is that the case or not?
Not sure?? I put the Copper slip grease between the caliper and metal clips/shims. I also used it on the disc mounting surface with the hub and the wheel. Probably used too much as some sprayed on to the inside of the wheel after the test drive.
I used a 'Proslip' kit that has different grease for the pins, back of pads and the other side of the clips where the pad actually slides. So all in I used four different types of grease!
-
I was under the impression that Copaslip should not be used on vehicles with ABS. White Brake Grease being used instead. Is that the case or not?
If copper grease gets on ABS sensors it can cause problems, but sensors not that close to brakes unless the grease drips or flings. Also copper grease not high melting point - have only ever used it on backs of pads. Being petroleum based copper grease will swell and try to dissolve any rubber seals or bellows it comes into contact with as well. I only use TRW PFG110 grease on slide pins and the supplied sachet of moly grease on the brake pad ears nowadays - have had a tin of copper grease for years but rarely gets used.
-
**** UPDATE *****
Filed the inside of the calipers and cleaned them right up to smooth bare metal. Painted a thin layer of copper slip and fitted in the new metal clips. Pads now moving more freely. Quick test drive and no noises. Seems to be sorted! I'm back at work tomorrow so just in time.
Happy days.
-
I was under the impression that Copaslip should not be used on vehicles with ABS. White Brake Grease being used instead. Is that the case or not?
If copper grease gets on ABS sensors it can cause problems, but sensors not that close to brakes unless the grease drips or flings. Also copper grease not high melting point - have only ever used it on backs of pads. Being petroleum based copper grease will swell and try to dissolve any rubber seals or bellows it comes into contact with as well. I only use TRW PFG110 grease on slide pins and the supplied sachet of moly grease on the brake pad ears nowadays - have had a tin of copper grease for years but rarely gets used.
Hopefully it will be ok. I didn't use in on the pins, or any direct contact points with the pad, just the caliper to clip mating surface after I filed and brushed it back to clean metal. I'll see how it all goes and report back on this thread if I have any issues down the line.
-
I use Copaslip mainly out of habit, and because I have several tins of the stuff.
I use dabs on the backs of pads, as Culzean suggested previously. Being copper rich, it soon dries out and does the intended job of sticking the pad to the piston, and caliper on the inside pad. I also put a very thin smear where I have cleaned the calipers, just to seal the bare metal and slow down any further corrosion. On the Jazz, that's behind the shims. You shouldn't need anything on the pad side of the shims, they are smooth to allow the pads to slide - any grease there will only atttract muck to stick.
Hopefully it will be ok. I didn't use in on the pins, or any direct contact points with the pad, just the caliper to clip mating surface after I filed and brushed it back to clean metal. I'll see how it all goes and report back on this thread if I have any issues down the line.
Sounds absolutely fine to me.
-
Here is a useful guide showing the effect of using the wrong lubricants on brake rubber parts
https://www.frentech-uk.co.uk/useful-information/
-
Here is a useful guide showing the effect of using the wrong lubricants on brake rubber parts
https://www.frentech-uk.co.uk/useful-information/
Yes - any grease or oil based on petroleum will cause swelling and breaking up of seals - Red Rubber grease ( which I don't use - prefer TRW PGF110 ) is based on plant products - Castor oil IIRC ( but so is Ricin LOL ) - which is where Castrol got its name from ( anyone remember the heavenly smell of Castrol-R racing oil - speedway, moto-x and BSB etc just not the same these days, they don't smell right )
-
I used Ceratec silicon grease when I changed pads on Mark 3.. High melting point unlike Copperease which will melt and flow due to braking heat...(If I were a hard driver with frequent braking I would avoid all use of Copper ease near brakes.. I am not a hard driver but loads of hills ).
-
Real Copaslip has a a paraffinic base, which is relatively inert and doesn't seem to have a detrimental effect on most rubbers. It isn't recommended for use on brakes however, and is no use where you want lubrication - it isn't intended for that. Silicone greases are the best stuff to use.
It does, however, dry out quickly and stick the pads to the piston and caliper. That's the only place I use it on brakes, and have done for 30 years without any problems.