Recent Posts
1
Honda Jazz Mk1 2002-2008 / Re: Powerflex Performance Bushes – Rear Trailing Arm
« Last post by vandals01 on Today at 06:00:30 PM »I just did the rear axle bushes on my girlfriend's 2014 Honda Jazz IMA 1.3 (at 100K miles).
Apparently, it was an MOT advisory item along with squeaks coming from the rear at low speed.
Since I had the time, and she's away for a couple of days, why not replace it?
The bushes I bought was Delphi TD1931W at £20 each (not Powerflex bushes unfortunately).
Now... The MK1 jazz appears to use a different style of bushing (metal sleeve as opposed to MK2 plastic sleeve). When I type in my uncle's 2006 Honda jazz registration number, this is the only one came up on AutoDoc: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/gsp/9864519
Problem with metal sleeve is that they are harder to remove and install. I supposed poly bushes will at least make installation easier.
Process was fairly straight forward.
1. Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of the car and set it on Axle stands.
2. Remove the rear wheels.
3. Put a jack underneath the rear axle beam and let the jack touches it (in the centre).
4. Remove the Axle bolt on both side.
5. Slowly lower the jack and let the axle beam goes down with it.
At this point, pay attention to the brake hose / parking brake cables and ABS wire. On MK2, I had to loosen the driver side brake pipe attached to the car's body to give it a bit of slack therefore I wouldn't break the brake hose. The benefit of this methods is: You don't need to deal with springs / bleed the brakes and mess with the rusty fittings which might not go back together.
With the bushes dangling in mid air, you can then perform the replacement operation.
A couple of tools you'll need: A drill & hacksaw at bare minimum. Preferably a drill with a hole saw attachment say 55mm (to remove the rubber in the old bushing) and a reciprocating saw to put a cut on the metal sleeve therefore you can drive it out.
A set of Bushing installation tool (£45 from ebay) will be helpful even for poly bushing. (It is a must for others).
The entire process took me 4 hours. Axle bolt should be tighten at ride height. I torqued it to 104 nm.
With the bushing replaces, the squeak is now gone. An added benefit was noticeable less swaying at high speed.
Before you attempt it, I would recommend a quote from local garage. If it cost less than £200, I would let garage do it.
Apparently, it was an MOT advisory item along with squeaks coming from the rear at low speed.
Since I had the time, and she's away for a couple of days, why not replace it?
The bushes I bought was Delphi TD1931W at £20 each (not Powerflex bushes unfortunately).
Now... The MK1 jazz appears to use a different style of bushing (metal sleeve as opposed to MK2 plastic sleeve). When I type in my uncle's 2006 Honda jazz registration number, this is the only one came up on AutoDoc: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/gsp/9864519
Problem with metal sleeve is that they are harder to remove and install. I supposed poly bushes will at least make installation easier.
Process was fairly straight forward.
1. Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of the car and set it on Axle stands.
2. Remove the rear wheels.
3. Put a jack underneath the rear axle beam and let the jack touches it (in the centre).
4. Remove the Axle bolt on both side.
5. Slowly lower the jack and let the axle beam goes down with it.
At this point, pay attention to the brake hose / parking brake cables and ABS wire. On MK2, I had to loosen the driver side brake pipe attached to the car's body to give it a bit of slack therefore I wouldn't break the brake hose. The benefit of this methods is: You don't need to deal with springs / bleed the brakes and mess with the rusty fittings which might not go back together.
With the bushes dangling in mid air, you can then perform the replacement operation.
A couple of tools you'll need: A drill & hacksaw at bare minimum. Preferably a drill with a hole saw attachment say 55mm (to remove the rubber in the old bushing) and a reciprocating saw to put a cut on the metal sleeve therefore you can drive it out.
A set of Bushing installation tool (£45 from ebay) will be helpful even for poly bushing. (It is a must for others).
The entire process took me 4 hours. Axle bolt should be tighten at ride height. I torqued it to 104 nm.
With the bushing replaces, the squeak is now gone. An added benefit was noticeable less swaying at high speed.
Before you attempt it, I would recommend a quote from local garage. If it cost less than £200, I would let garage do it.
2
Honda Jazz Mk1 2002-2008 / Re: Wing mirror stalks
« Last post by vandals01 on Today at 04:52:10 PM »New unit probably doesn't worth it. Because after you bought it, you'll still have to prime it, paint it then protect it with lacquer.
If you want to do a perfect job. It will be removed the mirror from the car, remove the peeling paint (or at least use body putty then sand), respray.
Mirror removal process is fairly easy. Window all the way down, remove the door's inner plastic panel, detach the window control connector. With the panel out of the way, disconnect the electrical connector for the mirror, then unscrew 3 x 10mm nut that holds the mirror to the door.
If you want to do a perfect job. It will be removed the mirror from the car, remove the peeling paint (or at least use body putty then sand), respray.
Mirror removal process is fairly easy. Window all the way down, remove the door's inner plastic panel, detach the window control connector. With the panel out of the way, disconnect the electrical connector for the mirror, then unscrew 3 x 10mm nut that holds the mirror to the door.
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Honda Jazz Mk1 2002-2008 / Re: CVT-F Oil Options
« Last post by vandals01 on Today at 04:33:03 PM »Yes, Westway CVT-F Fluid. Back then (March 2025), it was £40 for 5 Litres on eBay, now £50. (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111843440387)
The Granville version DOES appear to be similar. However, from what I searched on google, HMMF & HCF-2 are supposed to be two different fluid. Granville having met both specification put me into high alert. Therefore I would avoid it and stick to either WestWay or Original Honda.
I changed the CVT-Fluid on my girlfriend's 2014 Jazz Hybrid (CVT) April Last year (2025) because a Transmission service reminder came up. 3 Litres came out, so 3 Litres of new fluid went back in. On the outside (in front of the gearbox just behind the radiator), there was a transmission filter which I replaced too. (https://www.autodoc.co.uk/febi-bilstein/15490552). Note ONLY Hybrid Jazz has it.
Almost 17 months, everything seems normal.
On the 2014 hybrid, it was VERY easy to drain. Drive the car onto a plastic ramp (or just drive the right side of the car up a kerb). There is a undercover which you can unscrew directly underneath passenger side driveshaft. Unscrew 3? Philips head screw, it will reveal the CVT drain bolt facing the passenger front wheel.
The bolt has a 3/8 head. Typical of Honda fashion, they are tighten like it was about to strip away. So a decent 3/8 ratchet with a mallet (smack on the ratchet handle) should be able to break the bolt lose.
The Granville version DOES appear to be similar. However, from what I searched on google, HMMF & HCF-2 are supposed to be two different fluid. Granville having met both specification put me into high alert. Therefore I would avoid it and stick to either WestWay or Original Honda.
I changed the CVT-Fluid on my girlfriend's 2014 Jazz Hybrid (CVT) April Last year (2025) because a Transmission service reminder came up. 3 Litres came out, so 3 Litres of new fluid went back in. On the outside (in front of the gearbox just behind the radiator), there was a transmission filter which I replaced too. (https://www.autodoc.co.uk/febi-bilstein/15490552). Note ONLY Hybrid Jazz has it.
Almost 17 months, everything seems normal.
On the 2014 hybrid, it was VERY easy to drain. Drive the car onto a plastic ramp (or just drive the right side of the car up a kerb). There is a undercover which you can unscrew directly underneath passenger side driveshaft. Unscrew 3? Philips head screw, it will reveal the CVT drain bolt facing the passenger front wheel.
The bolt has a 3/8 head. Typical of Honda fashion, they are tighten like it was about to strip away. So a decent 3/8 ratchet with a mallet (smack on the ratchet handle) should be able to break the bolt lose.
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Honda Jazz Mk3 2015-2020 / Re: Under bonnet.fuse/relay box label
« Last post by ColinB on Today at 02:12:08 PM »At the risk of veering further off-piste, but in the hope of putting this to bed:
That is perfectly normal behaviour. As I said, the message about the a/c is misleading, it is nothing to do with the a/c therefore it doesn’t matter whether that system is switched on or not. It’s telling you that the start-stop isn’t working because the car thinks you’re trying to demist the screen (vent control is fully to the right in the screen position).
I’ve just tested this on a short journey in my car: vent set to screen, a/c switched off, and the Start-stop doesn’t work with the display showing the a/c symbol just like the lower part of your image. Switch the ventilation control to anywhere else (face, feet, etc), switch the a/c on, and the start-stop works.
The only difference I get from you is that I don’t get the text in the display, just the symbols. I guess this is either a change from my 2015 car (2016MY) to yours, or maybe there’s something in the various settings to change this.
I've managed to get a pic of the display
......and by the way, the A/C is not working and NOT EVEN SWITCHED ON when that symbol appears!!
That is perfectly normal behaviour. As I said, the message about the a/c is misleading, it is nothing to do with the a/c therefore it doesn’t matter whether that system is switched on or not. It’s telling you that the start-stop isn’t working because the car thinks you’re trying to demist the screen (vent control is fully to the right in the screen position).
I’ve just tested this on a short journey in my car: vent set to screen, a/c switched off, and the Start-stop doesn’t work with the display showing the a/c symbol just like the lower part of your image. Switch the ventilation control to anywhere else (face, feet, etc), switch the a/c on, and the start-stop works.
The only difference I get from you is that I don’t get the text in the display, just the symbols. I guess this is either a change from my 2015 car (2016MY) to yours, or maybe there’s something in the various settings to change this.
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Honda Jazz Mk4 2020 - / Re: Jazz vs bigger cars
« Last post by FMIB on Today at 12:43:52 PM »With my 2021 Crosstar coming up for its 5th service I have been investigating alternatives which have more boot space whilst retaining most of the Jazz's other features (Full Hybrid, rear view camera and front & rear parking sensors, physical controls for Air Con etc.) Google AI suggested a Hyundai Kona 2nd Gen; Toyota Yaris Cross Hybrid and a Renault Captur E-Tech. Or, if wanting to retain the 'Magic Seats' a Honda CRV.
Examining the specs and reading reviews of these cars lead me to the following conclusions. Some cars (Toyota) are much more expensive than the others. Other issues for me include, poorer fuel consumption, bigger turning circle, harsher ride quality because of bigger wheels etc. And some have an 'automated gearbox' which can be jerky, instead of a CVT.
I don't think you can equate harsher ride quality of other cars to the Jazz just because they have bigger wheels. The Jazz is not exactly having the best ride over certain poor UK roads. My XC40 had 20 inch wheels, lower profile tyres and yet the ride comfort was in a different league to the Jazz.
Maybe a Honda HRV might be worth a look, keeps all the things you like with your Jazz, but with a bigger boot. The CRV is a lot bigger and comes with a 2.0L engine, so yes it will use a bit more fuel.
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Honda Jazz Mk4 2020 - / Re: Changing Spark Plugs 2021 Mk4 Jazz Hybrid
« Last post by Lord Voltermore on Today at 09:23:40 AM »The spark plugs will be iridium. Made with special materials designed to last 62500 miles.
I am a bit confused . If you typically do 7.5K miles a year (38K over 5 years) the plugs should not be due,or indeed need, replacing for another 3 years.
Are you planning to change them, now? If so are you sure you havnt been influenced by distant memories of how long 'ordinary' spark plugs used to last in days gone by?
I dont know how to change the plugs. I accept this knowledge may become increasingly useful as high mileage Mk4's enter DIY servicing territory . Iridium plugs are expensive so I see the advantage of changing them yourself rather than risk an unscrupulous independent garage charging for a plug change that never happened.
However , despite doing some quite extensive car repairs in the past, personally I would treat the car to a full Honda service and plug change when it reaches 62500 miles. Even if other servicing has been by an independent garage or diy .
I am a bit confused . If you typically do 7.5K miles a year (38K over 5 years) the plugs should not be due,or indeed need, replacing for another 3 years.
Are you planning to change them, now? If so are you sure you havnt been influenced by distant memories of how long 'ordinary' spark plugs used to last in days gone by?
I dont know how to change the plugs. I accept this knowledge may become increasingly useful as high mileage Mk4's enter DIY servicing territory . Iridium plugs are expensive so I see the advantage of changing them yourself rather than risk an unscrupulous independent garage charging for a plug change that never happened.
However , despite doing some quite extensive car repairs in the past, personally I would treat the car to a full Honda service and plug change when it reaches 62500 miles. Even if other servicing has been by an independent garage or diy .
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Honda Jazz Mk3 2015-2020 / Re: Under bonnet.fuse/relay box label
« Last post by Kremmen on Today at 09:11:49 AM »I know this isn't a Jazz but there are 2 explanations here if you scroll down
https://www.dash-lights.com/honda/crv-dashboard-warning-lights/auto-stop-not-available/
https://www.dash-lights.com/honda/crv-dashboard-warning-lights/auto-stop-not-available/
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Honda Jazz Mk3 2015-2020 / Re: Under bonnet.fuse/relay box label
« Last post by orcadian on Today at 08:57:58 AM »Many thanks Colin,
I wish I'd never added the bit about stop start to my original query about the relays. I'm happy the S/S is not working but was puzzled by the message being different from the one on our 2015 car.
I did trawl through the handbook, almost losing the will to live but no mention of relays - by that time I could have been 'man looking' of course. I'll check again.
I've managed to get a pic of the display
......and by the way, the A/C is not working and NOT EVEN SWITCHED ON when that symbol appears!!
Their firmware programmers need to go back to producing kids video games!
None of this solves my relay query - has nobody got that sticker inside the fuse box?
Ian
I wish I'd never added the bit about stop start to my original query about the relays. I'm happy the S/S is not working but was puzzled by the message being different from the one on our 2015 car.
I did trawl through the handbook, almost losing the will to live but no mention of relays - by that time I could have been 'man looking' of course. I'll check again.
I've managed to get a pic of the display
......and by the way, the A/C is not working and NOT EVEN SWITCHED ON when that symbol appears!!
Their firmware programmers need to go back to producing kids video games!
None of this solves my relay query - has nobody got that sticker inside the fuse box?
Ian
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Honda Jazz Mk3 2015-2020 / Re: Under bonnet.fuse/relay box label
« Last post by ColinB on Today at 07:42:18 AM »Stop-start works perfectly well when the a/c is running … mine does, every time I drive it. However it doesn’t work if you have the ventilation set to demist the screen, and that’s when you get the message implying otherwise (stop/start symbol crossed out with an a/c symbol). I guess that’s because if you have a misted screen, you need both the engine and the a/c to keep running to provide warm dry air. It’s a misleading indication. Try directing the ventilation to face, feet, cabin, anywhere other than the screen.
I’ve never seen anything like “auto stop start not available” even when the battery was old. Where and how does this appear, what symbol shows on which display?
Regarding the original query about the fuse box, there is info and diagrams in the handbook (p565 et seq) about the fuses. Not sure this covers relays though.
I’ve never seen anything like “auto stop start not available” even when the battery was old. Where and how does this appear, what symbol shows on which display?
Regarding the original query about the fuse box, there is info and diagrams in the handbook (p565 et seq) about the fuses. Not sure this covers relays though.
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Honda Jazz Mk3 2015-2020 / Re: Under bonnet.fuse/relay box label
« Last post by Kremmen on Today at 05:11:16 AM »That could be a generic message
I've seen posts where if you have aircon running then stop/start is disabled to keep it running
I've seen posts where if you have aircon running then stop/start is disabled to keep it running
