Clubjazz - Honda Jazz & HR-V Forums
Honda Jazz Forums => Honda Jazz Mk2 2008-2015 => Topic started by: Defender on December 02, 2016, 09:36:02 AM
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On the cold mornings we've had this week I've noticed the battery has struggled a bit to start my Jazz.
It's now four and half years old, the battery is original, but I would expect a bit more life from it than that?
It does get used far more in the winter than the summer, since being serviced at the beginning of May this year it's covered just under 3000 miles since then, not huge or even average, but not minisclue either.
As its warmed up up a bit now I'll see if it improves, but I think a new battery is on the horizon, I keep a jump stater pack charged just in case it's needed.
Anybody else's battery showing signs of aging etc?
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Hi. That's about 6,000 miles a year, if it is many small journeys it's not a lot of time to recoup what you have taken out charging. maybe an overnight charge and you would see the difference. Cold nights making for thicker oil and small battery it would be surprising if it was not a tad slower turning over. My battery is 3 years old and 56,000 miles, at least 35 miles a day in to work and back so it gets a chance to recharge. it used to be about 600 amps initial current draw on a battery when engaging the starter but that was 20 odd years ago but still a heavy drain when you turn the key.
I think 3 years for a battery is probably the manufacturers expected life for the battery, it may last several years more but performance will have degraded. At the end of the day, some batteries last 3 years and some 10. Usage and initial quality of battery (maybe a bit of luck as well) all have a bearing on battery life. I think they are classed as a consumable like pads and disks and clutches etc
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I recently had to change my battery but it lasted a good 7 years lol :D
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Thanks for the replies, to be honest I was expecting a another year or so from it, my journeys to and from work tend to be in darkness at this time of year, my commute is 21 miles each way minimum, if I use a different route for any reason it's longer than that.
I should have said that the current mileage is just under 50000 and had about 11,500 miles on it when I bought it four years ago.
Only in the last year and a half has the annual mileage drop to the current level, which is much more in the winter than the spring summer and autumn.
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Once the battery has struggled to start the engine then it is likely to be fairly well discharged. During winter with more lights and fans etc increasing the demand on the electrics then it will take longer for the battery to get fully charged again.
If you have a charger, make sure that the battery is fully charged. Then, if it still struggles on the next cold morning, you can be more certain that the problem lies with the battery not delivering due to aging rather than not being fully charged. I would have expected another year or more of service from a battery of that age.
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Depth of discharge (how low you let charge level get before you charge it) has a profound effect on battery lifetime - if you can keep battery well charged it will last longer, every time the battery gets below about 60% charge it suffers cumulative permanent damage to battery chemistry. Keeping this level of charge isn't too hard if the car gets used every day for a decent journey (starting the engine takes less than 4% of capacity normally, unless you have to crank engine over for a long time). The normal run of the mill lead / antimony batteries last about 4 years normally. The newer lead / calcium and lead silver batteries are more expensive to buy but last a lot longer - get a good battery if you have an auto car (and some jump leads), remember you cannot 'bump' start an auto - its the battery or a jump start........
Due to better quality control and construction a modern battery will not normally fail catastrophically (they used to die suddenly and completely with very little notice when welded joints between cells failed)- they normally just gradually get 'tired' and slower to turn engine over as the battery ages and will no longer accept a charge as well as a new one, and don't want to release power as easily - in other words batteries lose their capacity as they age - and may drop from a a 40a/h when new to nearer 30 a/h, and the cranking amps (CCA) gets less as well.
A good and easy test is to put headlights on and watch them while someone else starts the car, with a new battery voltage may drop to about 9 volts under starting load and lights will go a bit dim, but when battery is on the way out voltage may drop to 6 volts or less under starting load and lights will go very dim. If lights do go very dim it may be a bad terminal post to battery cable lug connection, raise the bonnet and feel the terminals -- if one of them is very warm / hot the terminal to lug connection may need cleaning and a good dose of vaseline (it is normally the positive post that corrodes and gives problems, but even then modern batteries use better alloys in posts to stop corrosion).
Another thing to remember - most batteries today have a little round porthole in the top with a colour chart next to it, this is just a floating ball (a hydrometer) to measure specific gravity of acid, this ball is only looking at one cell to show 'general state of battery charge' - (all cells are sealed from each other) so it is possible one of the other 5 cells has a shorted plate or similar problem which will lower battery voltage and capacity while the ball colour is showing green or whatever to say battery is OK.
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I seem to have been lucky but it's several years since I have had to buy a car battery. Nevertheless I think those days might well be over given the drastic change in my pattern of driving since a house move and retirement have reduced my mileage from 12,000 a year with a fair bit of motorway work down to 6,000 on retirement and now down to 3,000 following a move to be nearer our grandkids. I do a lot of stop start stuff these days.
I do try to get a 10 mile run on the motorway in most weeks by going the long way round to the supermarket!
Is this enough to help?
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I changed ours a few weeks back with a Duracell item from Eurocarparts. I normally buy Bosch but this seems good quality. The old battery was original, 09 plate and still working but I figured nearly 8 years was approaching borrowed time, and the car is used a lot. Starter motor spins much faster now than in the 5 years we've had it.
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Although everyone has a preference for battery brand, there are only a very few companies in the world who make batteries (just like there are probably only two or three companies who make tv screens). The Bosch battery probably made in malaysia. Having been involved in battery industry a few years ago my favourite is Yuasa, as I know their technology is top class and will always have one on my motorbikes because unlike a couple other well known brands, yuasa have given long reliable service, at the moment our two Honda cars have yuasa silver batteries, got them for a good price at halfords last year and expecting a good few years of service, maybe even outlast me !
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Although everyone has a preference for battery brand, there are only a very few companies in the world who make batteries (just like there are probably only two or three companies who make tv screens). The Bosch battery probably made in malaysia. Having been involved in battery industry a few years ago my favourite is Yuasa, as I know their technology is top class and will always have one on my motorbikes because unlike a couple other well known brands, yuasa have given long reliable service, at the moment our two Honda cars have yuasa silver batteries, got them for a good price at halfords last year and expecting a good few years of service, maybe even outlast me !
+1,good post,I find the same with our bikes and car ,you can not go wrong with aYuasa battery.
Plasma.
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I seem to have been lucky but it's several years since I have had to buy a car battery. Nevertheless I think those days might well be over given the drastic change in my pattern of driving since a house move and retirement have reduced my mileage from 12,000 a year with a fair bit of motorway work down to 6,000 on retirement and now down to 3,000 following a move to be nearer our grandkids. I do a lot of stop start stuff these days.
I do try to get a 10 mile run on the motorway in most weeks by going the long way round to the supermarket!
Is this enough to help?
The killer for batteries is winter, : short distances with lights and heaters and wipers on. These will discharge your battery - and leave it so . Leaving a battery discharged for long periods is a BAD THING... its capacity slowly reduces.
(Our Toyota Yaris - like its predecessors over 30 years is driven like that . It kills batteries.Annual lifespan 2-3 years)
I make a habit of placing the Yaris battery on charge once a month so it is fully charged... from October to March. It's not needed in the summer. Its last battery lasted 3.5years.
Buy a replacement with a 4 year warranty and keep the receipt... then you get 6 years life! That's what I now do.
Our Jazz does 6,000 miles a year but average journey is 8 miles so no issues there.
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I recently had to change my battery but it lasted a good 7 years lol :D
Thought I'd update this as my original battery was replaced in Feb16 according to my dealer as I've been having a few issues.
I've noticed its taken a little longer to start the engine in the morning as if the battery was dying but didn't think anything of it bearing in mine the battery is still relatively new.
However, it was completely dead on Sunday when I tried to start the car up so had to jump start it with my missus car and its been fine, although slightly hesitant.
I took it to the garage this morning and they naturally said the battery is still very good, but just needed recharging so they charged it up for about an hour and said all is good now.
They showed me a print out they had which showed the battery was between 60-70% charged when they first plugged the diagnostic machine thingy in
Found it strange but will be keeping my eye on this over the coming days/ weeks. If it happens again, i'll insist on them replacing it with a new one
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I recently had to change my battery but it lasted a good 7 years lol :D
Thought I'd update this as my original battery was replaced in Feb16 according to my dealer as I've been having a few issues.
What brand and chemistry of battery did they fit (lead antimony, lead calcium, lead silver ?) and what is your normal driving pattern ? Has the car ever been left standing for a long time, and if you you do low mileage do you do as Madasafish advises and boost the battery charge with an external charger in colder months (by the way, batteries 'self-discharge' faster in warmer weather, so may be a good thing all year round) - I have had a charging plug lead with fuse inline connected to motorbike for many years now, and having retired last year and doing fewer miles I have fitted one to car as well to keep battery topped up - a battery kept within the top 10% of its charge will last a lot longer than one that is either allowed to stand in a partially discharged state, or is regularly deeply discharged (depth of discharge is a very important thing for car batteries).
If a battery was kept around 60% charged it would sulphate up - this coats the plates with a hard white coating that interferes with battery chemistry and basically 'stops the electricity getting in and out' --- reducing batteries ability to accept a charge and to release it when needed.
you can get many types of maintenance chargers (ones that you can leave connected and will vary the charge to basically zero when battery is charged) Optimate, CTEK, Battery tender and Oxford are pretty common ones with a good reputation. They all pretty well use a standard SAE plug and socket nowadays.
I got an 8 metre extension lead from quadbike wales to keep charger in garage and charge both cars on the driveway
https://www.amazon.co.uk/OPTIMATE-PERMENANT-CONNECTION-CHARGERS-ACCESSORIES/dp/B009YJ0QF2/ref=sr_1_184?m=A3T9QHDC3D3PK4&s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1497958764&sr=1-184&keywords=quad+bike+wales (https://www.amazon.co.uk/OPTIMATE-PERMENANT-CONNECTION-CHARGERS-ACCESSORIES/dp/B009YJ0QF2/ref=sr_1_184?m=A3T9QHDC3D3PK4&s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1497958764&sr=1-184&keywords=quad+bike+wales)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/BATTERY-TENDER-EXTENSION-CABLE-CONNECTOR/dp/B01M03OM9D/ref=sr_1_481?m=A3T9QHDC3D3PK4&s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1497960823&sr=1-481&keywords=quad+bike+wales (https://www.amazon.co.uk/BATTERY-TENDER-EXTENSION-CABLE-CONNECTOR/dp/B01M03OM9D/ref=sr_1_481?m=A3T9QHDC3D3PK4&s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1497960823&sr=1-481&keywords=quad+bike+wales)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/vis/Battery-OptiMate-Optimate-2-Charger/B0079XVW5S (https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/vis/Battery-OptiMate-Optimate-2-Charger/B0079XVW5S)
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Hi @culzean,
thank you for your reply.
I don't know exactly what type or brand my local Honda dealer used, I just assumed it was another OEM one and it sure looks like my previous one lol.
As I live relatively close to work, I only do short journeys - maybe 8 miles return and don't go above 40mph. I use my car Monday to Fridays and then not used over the weekends as I drive the family car- CRV.
Everything seemed normal and been using the car no differently to any other days/ week but I had to use my car this weekend and that was when I tried to start the car and nothing. I wouldn't had thought it being the hottest day of the year so far would had caused it but judging from what you said, maybe that was it ?
Will have to look into getting one of those chargers you've suggested.
Many thanks again- invaluable advice per usual 8)
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http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/elevating_self_discharge (http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/elevating_self_discharge)
Other thing to check is that boot light is not stuck on or similar (parasitic load) when ignition is off. It has been known for the relay contacts for heated mirrors and windows to stick closed and then the battery will be discharged in hours.
Only thing about leaving a charging lead on the car is that you have to remember to unplug before driving off - If you are like me a post-it note on steering wheel may be required LOL
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Personally I would suspect the charging circuit rather than the battery. I normally do 2 x 3 miles, Monday to Friday, and even when I do that for several weeks without a long run in between, I have never had problems until the battery reaches the end of its life. I also sit with the radio playing for a spell every day while I wait for my wife. I also wash the car every couple of weeks, and it stands for an hour with doors and/or tailgate open, while I do so.
I have never regularly charged a car battery throughout my motoring life (never had a garage near to my house), and, even in the days of generators and batteries with caps for topping up, never experienced problems. At least not until the battery had reached a fair old age.
I did once have a problem with a new battery which had been fitted by the RAC. It was a universal type, and the mechanic tapped on the required round post for my Vauxhall, on to a square posted battery. The RAC came out, sorted the poor connection between battery and post, and I never had any further problems with it.
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I would have hoped that garage would have done a basic check on charging voltage, Alternators used to have one diode in the diode pack fail (alternator produces AC and this needs to be rectified with a diode pack to change it to DC for car electrics) and it would mean a drop of around half a volt on output, Many garages missed it because they thought 13.5 volts was OK, but it needs to be 13.8 to 14.2 - the result was the battery gradually lost power, it would be recharged with a charger and then gradually lost power again because charging voltage was too low.
A quick check with a voltmeter across battery terminals with engine running is all it needs to check voltage is in the 13.8 to 14.2 (or a bit higher) range as above, after being allowed to stand for about an hour after charging voltage should ideally be about 12.6 volts in a happy battery. You can tell state of charge of a battery by terminal voltage (after allowing battery to stand for a while - for chemistry to 'settle down').
Batteries do not like hot weather, a battery in a hot country may last about 2 years, we are pretty lucky in UK
http://www.mmbalmainauto.com.au/PDF/State_of_charge_12_volt_batteries.pdf (http://www.mmbalmainauto.com.au/PDF/State_of_charge_12_volt_batteries.pdf)
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I was a radio officer in the Merchant Navy and we depended on batteries for our emergency system. In fact, the first ship I served on had two banks of Lead Acid batteries, for Working and Standby, with one set on charge at any time. For my ticket I had to study battery construction, maintenance and chemistry, for about 3 months of the course. Every port saw a mornings maintenance work. Compared to that car batteries are a dawdle. And so much more advanced now. The worst that can happen is you need a jump start. Better that than the skipper wanting to send an SOS and you have no transmitter!
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Batteries do not like hot weather, a battery in a hot country may last about 2 years, we are pretty lucky in UK
I can confirm this having lived in Kuwait for three years. Recent temperatures were a cool day for a Kuwait summer 40C being normal !
Under bonnet temperatures were very high and battery failure was a way of life, you always carried jump leads, not just for your own use but in case someone else needed help. It was not unusual to see two lots of jump leads joined together where access was difficult !
Battery failure was usually instantaneous with no warning of impending failure and in the American car that most people drove the batteries were enormous.
Vic.
Vic.
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Our Jazz was registered in October 2010 so, coming up for 7 yrs. The battery (original as it had the date 10/10/10 on the side) appeared to be OK. I kept an eye on the indicator which always showed OK. Then recently, while working on a back door for about an hour, ignoring all the warnings, I ended up with a flat battery. AA started it OK and the battery appeared to be fine BUT as it had failed once with comparatively little drain I decided on a replacement.
I found a YUASA locally, they claim it has a 4 yr warranty for £55.
When I started the car after fitting the new battery, I realised I had been living on borrowed time. It started instantly, no turning over several times before firing.
Of course being s*ds law the old battery might have gone on for several more months, it is doubtful it could have coped with the next winter. Despite all appearing to be in order, one must accept that batteries don't live for ever.
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Batteries do not like hot weather, a battery in a hot country may last about 2 years, we are pretty lucky in UK
I can confirm this having lived in Kuwait for three years. Recent temperatures were a cool day for a Kuwait summer 40C being normal !
Under bonnet temperatures were very high and battery failure was a way of life, you always carried jump leads, not just for your own use but in case someone else needed help. It was not unusual to see two lots of jump leads joined together where access was difficult !
Battery failure was usually instantaneous with no warning of impending failure and in the American car that most people drove the batteries were enormous.
Vic.
Vic.
Not strictly relevant but this seems to apply to Electric Cars as well. I've done some research into the Nissan Leaf as a possible next car and battery degradation has been a significant problem, regardless of mileage, in the hotter states in the USA. In the UK, on the other hand, the batteries have held up very well. There's a Leaf taxi in Cornwall that, after 5 years and 170,000 miles still had 80% of it's battery capacity.
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I have always thought a good life for a standard battery in UK is 4 to 5 years and a calcium or silver one 5 to 6 years, after that as auntneddy rightly says 'it is living on borrowed time'. Its reliable life depends so much one usage cycle (has it been kept well charged) and how hot the battery gets under the bonnet. I have a bronze coloured Civic and could hardly touch the surface of bonnet yesterday but lifting the bonnet and seeing the insulation (maybe sound deadening or both) the top of battery was very cool - but may not be so cool when engine is running - I know Jaguar still have, and some Rover cars used to have battery in the boot to keep it cooler.
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Not strictly relevant but this seems to apply to Electric Cars as well. I've done some research into the Nissan Leaf as a possible next car and battery degradation has been a significant problem, regardless of mileage, in the hotter states in the USA. In the UK, on the other hand, the batteries have held up very well. There's a Leaf taxi in Cornwall that, after 5 years and 170,000 miles still had 80% of it's battery capacity.
A taxi with a 70 mile range ?? (on a good day) bet he doesn't do much out of town wok - 80% capacity means its range is down to about 55 miles now - nahh, no thanks i will stick with ICE.
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Our Jazz was registered in October 2010 so, coming up for 7 yrs. The battery (original as it had the date 10/10/10 on the side) appeared to be OK. I kept an eye on the indicator which always showed OK. Then recently, while working on a back door for about an hour, ignoring all the warnings, I ended up with a flat battery. AA started it OK and the battery appeared to be fine BUT as it had failed once with comparatively little drain I decided on a replacement.
I found a YUASA locally, they claim it has a 4 yr warranty for £55.
When I started the car after fitting the new battery, I realised I had been living on borrowed time. It started instantly, no turning over several times before firing.
Of course being s*ds law the old battery might have gone on for several more months, it is doubtful it could have coped with the next winter. Despite all appearing to be in order, one must accept that batteries don't live for ever.
I think I had mentioned it but my original battery lasted me just over 7 years, current one is just over a year old now so no idea why current one appears to be causing me some problems.
Will keep a close eye on it but before getting my battery from my local Honda dealer, I did look into getting a Yuasa one
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RAC man, who changed my battery last year, said failed one was the factory original. That was after 10 years on the car!
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So my battery died again this morning :(
Called my Honda garage and they asked me to bring it down again tomorrow morning and they will try and get a fail on it so it can be replaced under warranty.
I told them I was just tempted to get a Yuasa one and be done with it as I don't have the time to keep going to see them even though they've been really helpful and looked after me all these years
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Surely you must have a Yuasa battery?
(https://clickon-media-motorsport.s3.amazonaws.com/2017/03/Neal_02-6-1024x683.jpg)
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TG
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Not strictly relevant but this seems to apply to Electric Cars as well. I've done some research into the Nissan Leaf as a possible next car and battery degradation has been a significant problem, regardless of mileage, in the hotter states in the USA. In the UK, on the other hand, the batteries have held up very well. There's a Leaf taxi in Cornwall that, after 5 years and 170,000 miles still had 80% of it's battery capacity.
A taxi with a 70 mile range ?? (on a good day) bet he doesn't do much out of town wok - 80% capacity means its range is down to about 55 miles now - nahh, no thanks i will stick with ICE.
Think your figures are a bit out. They reckon on 80 to 90 on the old 24 kwh Leaf and the oldest one still manages 65. Stop start motoring actually quite good for EV range.
Last week went out with my walking group. It was a mate's turn to drive and his Leaf managed the 80 mile round trip with some to spare. Warm weather and dry roads helped.
The ICE is on it's way out. I can't see many surviving beyond 2030.
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Is there a date on the battery i can see from above? Our Jazz will be 7 years in November and because we bought the car before its 5th 'birthday' i have no idea if this is the original battery. We have no problems at all what could be indicated on battery life, but maybe it suddenly dies tomorrow. Second question, can i buy the right battery on forehand and storage it until we need it? I ask this because i already know that by the time the battery dies i have to choose between Bosch and Bosch and there will be no time to order a better brand battery in time.
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stop start is same for battery as ICE pretty much, power supply still has to provide power to get car moving and accelerate (which is more power than steady speed - unless that speed is 100mph ), obviously electric cars don't have a 'tickover' to waste fuel while standing but most cars have start stop nowadays anyway.
When they get an EV with 400 mile range and 10 minute recharge and guarantee plenty of charging points with no queues I may reconsider.
I just love the way they advertise PHEV like Mitsubishi Outlander and BMW i8 - it seems as though they don't consider electrical power as 'fuel used' - I worked with a couple of people who had Outlander as company vehicle, 20 miles on full battery and then 30mpg after (and only a small fuel tank) and they can still claim stupid mpg figures which any half-witted engineer can see don't add up (135mpg for a 300BHP car ? ) The batteries alone in the Mitsubishi weigh 500kg and will take the SUV 20 miles fully charged wtf!
Nothing depreciates like an EV............. at that rate of depreciation the cost per mile becomes absolutely shocking
http://www.thenorthernecho.co.uk/news/14410937.Man_warns_of_electric_vehicle_depreciation_after_losing___15_000_on_Nissan_Leaf_in_18_months/ (http://www.thenorthernecho.co.uk/news/14410937.Man_warns_of_electric_vehicle_depreciation_after_losing___15_000_on_Nissan_Leaf_in_18_months/)
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Surely you must have a Yuasa battery?
(https://clickon-media-motorsport.s3.amazonaws.com/2017/03/Neal_02-6-1024x683.jpg)
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TG
Cant find anything that would suggest its a Yuasa one
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Some good points Culzean. It's why, for me, at present, they don't quite stack up. On the range issue I have been doing a little exercise simply jotting down roughly how many miles I do in a day since the start of the year. As of today I haven't done a single journey that even a limited mileage EV couldn't do.
However, in September, we are doing a bit of a UK road trip taking in the Malverns, Cornwall and Bath over 7 days. I'll do 800 miles plus. 15 x 30 minute fast charges? No thanks.
My mate, on the other hand, saves significant money with his EV as he does about 10,000 miles a year and changed when his ICE car was ready to be traded in. He bought used. He has access to an ICE car (his daughters) for the occasional long trip (about 2 a year) simply swapping cars for those trips.
Sorry guys - a bit off topic!
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When they get an EV with 400 mile range and 10 minute recharge and guarantee plenty of charging points with no queues I may reconsider.
We may need to start a new thread regarding EV (or maybe theres one already) but after seeing a member on another forum with a Tesla X, I've completely fallen in love with it and really want one!
Doubt I could afford one currently but the more I research about it, the more I see EV being my next car. I just wish they could make it more affordable.
People on that thread say the Tesla can be up to THREE / FOUR TIMES more than what they previously had but have no regrets.
The free Superchargers for charging the car out in the network sounds encouraging but considering you're spending £80k+ on a car, you're more or less paying for the "fuel" in advance? That's the way I see it anyways.
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JazzWay,
When I took the battery out of the car, there was a sticker on the side with 10/10/10 on it nothing else. The battery was not a make I had ever heard of but it was made in Japan.
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This morning, Tesla Motors announced via its official blog that it will no longer offer lifetime free charging at its Supercharger network for new buyers. Starting in 2017, new Teslas will only come with a limited amount of free charging every year.
Up until now, every Tesla sold came with free, unlimited recharging at any Supercharger station in Tesla's growing nationwide network. In an announcement this morning, Tesla says any cars ordered after January 1st, 2017 will come with just 400 kWh of complimentary Supercharging per year, equivalent to roughly 1000 miles worth of range. After that, owners will have to pay a "small fee" to power up their cars.
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As the uptake of electric cars increases it won't be long before the UK government starts to put tax on electricity used to charge a motor vehicle. It is a cash cow they cannot pass up, especially as duty on petrol and diesel will be tailing off.
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As the uptake of electric cars increases it won't be long before the UK government starts to put tax on electricity used to charge a motor vehicle. It is a cash cow they cannot pass up, especially as duty on petrol and diesel will be tailing off.
Yes I agree, they won't miss out on that cashcow, even down to having special meters in your house and maybe special voltages to make sure you can't sneak a charge of normal 230 mains.
Tesla in USA promised free charging with their very expensive novelty cars but because the rich people who bought them are so mean the owners were driving miles to get to the local free charging stations to get topped up and huge queues were forming, which meant anyone trying to get a charge during a long journey was unable to.
Even the Tesla business model (which I believe has yet to make a profit) can't stand the financial drain of 'free charging for life' that they had to promise to get people to buy their cars, Tesla has had little competition to date but the big 'cash rich' German and Jap car makers will soon be snapping at their heels and then it will be interesting. Tesla so far has been a company that attracted investors to its novelty products but has made them no money - how long will this continue before shares get dumped and company folds ?
http://www.investopedia.com/news/will-tesla-make-profit-2017-tsla/ (http://www.investopedia.com/news/will-tesla-make-profit-2017-tsla/)
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Back to topic.......
Despite getting it checked and charged by my Honda dealer on Tuesday, I almost couldn't start the car on Friday morning.
Emailed my dealer and they said to bring it down on Saturday morning where they will look at it again.
I said I don't have the time and rather just pay another £55 for a new Yuasa battery and just install it myself but they said they want the opportunity to help me sort it, and will somehow make it read a fault code so they could get me a free replacement as the battery is under warranty.
Went down 9.15am Saturday morning but they already had 7 other customers waiting for their cars to be worked on. 20mins later, the new lady at the service desk came over saying that the battery wont charge and that it will be £95 for a new battery. I said no chance, and its still under warranty so should be foc so she said she'll check with the service manager and should be fine.
I was away by 10.15 after a new battery 8)
Car starts and just feels much better now with a new battery so pretty chuffed my Honda dealer once again helped me sort this out
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Ref Auntneddy
I have just part -x my Honda Jazz EX 1.4 I-shift 2009 it had the original battery and was showing no signs of deterioration started the car every time. Hope I get the same service out of my new Jazz ex CVT stop/start
Lol23
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Daughter's just under 3yr old Jazz failed to start this morning showing all the symptoms of a flat battery. Don't even have jump leads any more but anyway while it's still in warranty I'd prefer Honda took a look at it, so Honda Assist have been called.
Car did a decent journey yesterday so wouldn't have expected a problem.
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Daughter's just under 3yr old Jazz failed to start this morning showing all the symptoms of a flat battery. Don't even have jump leads any more but anyway while it's still in warranty I'd prefer Honda took a look at it, so Honda Assist have been called.
Car did a decent journey yesterday so wouldn't have expected a problem.
Battery life depends on so many things, and if car is not used regularly for decent journeys it can shorten its life considerably. May be a charging problem or maybe a drain on the battery when ignition is off (it has been known for boot light to stay on, or the relay that controls heated rear screen or mirrors to stick closed, which means there is still power being supplied to them even though ignition is off). Is there an alarm fitted to the car, alarms can draw quite a bit of power on standby, the battery on my sister in laws car went flat in just over a week due to the fact her car has an alarm fitted (a factory one as well, not some shonky aftermarket one).
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Car starts and just feels much better now with a new battery so pretty chuffed my Honda dealer once again helped me sort this out
Sounds like they would have helped you out of 95 quid, if you hadn't questioned it! ;)
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Car starts and just feels much better now with a new battery so pretty chuffed my Honda dealer once again helped me sort this out
Sounds like they would have helped you out of 95 quid, if you hadn't questioned it! ;)
To be fair, I've been using them for well over 15 years now so know the service and mechanics really well and they know what I expect of them.
The battery was still under warranty and they said they will bring up a fault code in order to claim a replacement battery under warranty, which I guess it was they did.
Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk
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Battery life depends on so many things, and if car is not used regularly for decent journeys it can shorten its life considerably. May be a charging problem or maybe a drain on the battery when ignition is off (it has been known for boot light to stay on, or the relay that controls heated rear screen or mirrors to stick closed, which means there is still power being supplied to them even though ignition is off). Is there an alarm fitted to the car, alarms can draw quite a bit of power on standby, the battery on my sister in laws car went flat in just over a week due to the fact her car has an alarm fitted (a factory one as well, not some shonky aftermarket one).
I think the interior lights turn off anyway after a few mins - not sure about the boot lamp. Car doesn't have an alarm, I don't think - it's an EX. And HRW / mirrors wouldn't be used at this time of year.
It's used a lot - not long distance journeys but even a journey across town as it did yesterday would be a good 30 mins running, which with modern alternator charging systems should be plenty on an easy-to-start car like Jazz, especially in summer.
Honda Assist sent a local recovery agent who was grumpy and just jump started the car and left it running. We'll have to keep an eye on it and get it checked when in for service in a couple of weeks.
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Battery life depends on so many things, and if car is not used regularly for decent journeys it can shorten its life considerably. May be a charging problem or maybe a drain on the battery when ignition is off (it has been known for boot light to stay on, or the relay that controls heated rear screen or mirrors to stick closed, which means there is still power being supplied to them even though ignition is off). Is there an alarm fitted to the car, alarms can draw quite a bit of power on standby, the battery on my sister in laws car went flat in just over a week due to the fact her car has an alarm fitted (a factory one as well, not some shonky aftermarket one).
I think the interior lights turn off anyway after a few mins - not sure about the boot lamp. Car doesn't have an alarm, I don't think - it's an EX. And HRW / mirrors wouldn't be used at this time of year.
It's used a lot - not long distance journeys but even a journey across town as it did yesterday would be a good 30 mins running, which with modern alternator charging systems should be plenty on an easy-to-start car like Jazz, especially in summer.
Honda Assist sent a local recovery agent who was grumpy and just jump started the car and left it running. We'll have to keep an eye on it and get it checked when in for service in a couple of weeks.
May just be a dodgy battery connection. This causes high resistance and won't allow power to the starter. Good plan is to turn headlights on and get someone to see if they go out completely when you try to start engine (they normally go dimmer, but not out). Otherwise with the bonnet up try to start car and then quickly feel both battery terminals, If one is hot that will be the dodgy one.
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But be careful. It could be bl**dy hot! I talk from personal experience.
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I have a 2014 EX which was delivered in March 2014 with what I always thought was a dodgy battery. Probably a faulty cell. It never tested with a voltage above 12.4 volts from new - even when charged overnight.
When I mentioned this on the first dealer service, I was told they had seen worse.
Not having much confidence in the battery, I recently replaced it with a Yuasa Silver and now am more comfortable that I will not be "let down".
I am not sure the battery is covered under the Honda warranty anyway and I believe the manufacturer, Varta, would only give a partial refund proportionate to the balance of the unused part of the battery life. I would have spent more time/ money than that to visit the dealer to complain!
Could have been the same batch?
The Yuasa website is a good read on batteries and testing etc.:
http://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/technical/need-know-batteries (http://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/technical/need-know-batteries)
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I think the interior lights turn off anyway after a few mins - not sure about the boot lamp.
Well, this turns out to not be correct! I'm sure I've experienced the map reading lamps turning themselves off, but maybe I'm thinking of a different car.
Turned out the issue with daughter's car is granddaughter had turned on the rear interior lamp. I'm annoyed with myself for not suggesting checking it earlier and she's annoyed for not thinking of it too - she's normally pretty good with car stuff.
It would have been nice if the random recovery guy that Honda Assist had sent had checked on Saturday. Car was dead again on Sunday and I got her to check then and the lamp was still on. She was busy with other things on Sunday so called Honda Assist again mid-morning today (Monday) and they sent a proper AA patrol who did a much more thorough job. I was quite concerned as the battery was so flat this morning that the central locking wouldn't work and radio had lost its code, but he checked the battery condition and pronounced it OK. She's here tonight and after a few hours standing I checked the voltage as mentioned above and it's exactly 12.6V, so fingers crossed.
I've never had occasion to pay any of our Jazzs batteries any attention before but it really is dinky, isn't it! Here's is a Varta, 35Ah.
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I think there are three settings for the interior light switch.
OFF!
FADE - Middle setting - Comes on when ignition key is turned off and stays on until door is shut (and then a little), then automatically fades to off. Comes on when you open the door and then fades or goes off when the door is shut or ignition turned on.
ON - Permanently on (or until the battery fails ;-))
The ceiling interior light switch is a bit fiddly to get to the centre setting.
Your first man would have seen the interior light correctly illuminated if he had the door open because it automatically comes on in FADE mode when you open the door (I think!).
PS I may not have all the FADE activity quite right but you get the drift.............
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ON - Permanently on (or until the battery fails ;-))
It's this part that is a bit rubbish on Jazz. Most cars for some years have turned off the interior lights after 15 mins or so if they've been left on or if a door or the boot is left open. Precisely to avoid the scenario we experienced.
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ON - Permanently on (or until the battery fails ;-))
It's this part that is a bit rubbish on Jazz. Most cars for some years have turned off the interior lights after 15 mins or so if they've been left on or if a door or the boot is left open. Precisely to avoid the scenario we experienced.
I think quite a few cars let you have interior courtesy lights on with ignition off if you use the switch on the light - the most inexplicable thing I ever saw on a car was my wifes Fiat Punto, where the radio stayed on when you turned ignition off, that flattened the battery once, I could never get used to having to turn the radio off every time you left the car.
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My 56 plate Jazz is the newest car I have ever owned (year wise). Every car I have had would let the interior lights burn until such time as the battery went flat, if left in on position. The new cars with Canbus, or whatever it's called, have far more sophisticated electrics.