Post by: guest4283 on September 29, 2013, 10:13:03 PM
I know semi synthetic petroleum based multi grade oils have additives to make them achieve the higher viscosity rating at normal engine operating temperatures, and that over time these additives degrade and pull the operating temp viscosity rating down.
I don't know whether to use Magnatec 10w-40 and change it every six months or use SLX 0W-30 and change it every 12 months. Mileage is an issue as car will be used for short trips of less than 5 miles (bad), with no motorway driving, so would probably qualify for the severe service schedule (< 6k miles pa). SLX appears to have been replaced by Castrol Edge Professional, and is £10+ more than Magnatec 10w-40.
Since car wouldn't used around Siberia I don't think I need viscosity protection down to -30 degrees with a 0W or 5W.
Haynes manual says 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-30 or 10W-40.
Honda Owner's manual says 0W-20, 0W-30, 0W-40, OR 5W-30, 5W-40, OR 10W-30, 10W-40.
The graph on page 286 of Honda Owner's manual is not very helpful in trying to decide on a SAE 20, 30 or 40 oil. But I would have thought that a higher operating temp viscosity number would be better, the warmer the country.
Post by: JazzyB on September 29, 2013, 11:55:45 PM
So I use Castrol Edge 0W-30 as recommended by Castrol for the UK Jazz every 6 months.
I could change it every year as my mileage is within the maximum for the year but I choose to change it every 6 months.
Remember oil is cheaper than a new engine.
Post by: guest4078 on October 02, 2013, 07:25:29 PM
The 2005 1.4 on 96k miles got magnatec 5-30 and a new honda purflux filter when I got it, and I will change every 6 months as I do a lot of short trips working as a community rehab physio. I put molyslip in on the last change and the engine sounds great, although I think the gearbox is getting noisy.
I might use edge 0-30 without molyslip in future to give the high miles engine the best chance of longivety. The cost of edge is around the same as magnatec + molyslip from Amazon.
Post by: culzean on October 03, 2013, 07:18:56 PM
I might use edge 0-30 without molyslip in future to give the high miles engine the best chance of longivety. The cost of edge is around the same as magnatec + molyslip from Amazon.
keep using the Molyslip - it is better than any oil - trust me my old Civic did over 180K in 10 years when I got rid of it with rear wheel arch corrosion - and never a spanner on the engine and still not using a drop of oil between changes - mainly due to molyslip, also gearbox was mint due to the magic of MOS2
Post by: guest4078 on October 03, 2013, 08:41:57 PM
Post by: culzean on October 04, 2013, 05:45:57 PM
Molybdenum Disulphide plating will be there when the oil is not because it is attracted to metal surfaces and is ultra-hard and ultra-slippery - this protects the bearings during starting and warm-up (when most of the wear takes place. Molybdenum is an extreme pressure lubricant and is great for gearboxes but if a bearing has already started to fail it probably will not quieten it, but will make sure it doesn't fail.
Post by: guest4078 on October 05, 2013, 11:09:00 AM
Amazon are still selling Magnatec for £20.58 and a seller on e-bay has molyslip engine oil additive for 8.98 inc post which is cheaper than Amazon.
Also has gearbox additive for 7.00 inc post which I think I will try with the Honda manual gearbox oil.
Our trust has just started the NHS lease scheme and in a moment of new car induced fever, I had a look at the Jazz hybrid and the Yaris hybrid (both around 220 pm insured and maintained, not bad).
Whilst chatting the Honda man wanted to sell me a grands worth of gearbox repair immediately, with catastrophic results if I delayed, whereas the Toyota man said the Jazz will go on for years with the noisy bearings and just turn up the radio. So there!
Post by: culzean on October 05, 2013, 05:54:18 PM
as far as adding molyslip every engine oil change, I do it every second change because some of it stays on the bearing surfaces even when you drain the oil out. The Disulphide part is attracted to metal and the molybdenum bit is the slippery part. It sticks to both of the mating bearing surfaces and the plates slide over each other, not the bearing metals.
Post by: guest4283 on October 12, 2013, 12:25:07 PM
I have decided to use Castrol Edge 0w-30 due to it being readily available from amazon. I would probably go 0w-20 mobil 1 if it was available in 4 litre cans.
I phoned dealer and he said use 10w-40, which is a joke! Maybe he wants engine to be worn out when it's ten years old and me to come a buy a new car from him?
All engine oils are too thick at start up to circulate properly. Most engine wear happens at start up. Fully synthetic oil is best.
Some useful articles (if a bit technical) I've encountered:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
Post by: culzean on October 12, 2013, 03:37:07 PM
the major reason that constant velocity joints on modern FWD cars now seem to last forever is the amazing properties of Ms02 (molybdenum disulphide) - which is a lubricant that will reduce friction and greatly increase the amount of force a lubricant will withstand (an extreme pressure boundary lubricant). Oil manufacturers could greatly improve both the cold start and high temperature protection afforded by their oils (in other words, make it more than just 'adequate' for everyday use) by adding MoS2, but it is an expensive product, and the oil market is cut-throat and as such it is very price sensitive. The moly you added to the last oil change does not all disappear when you drain the oil, a lot of it is still in the engine plated onto bearing surfaces, and as such it is enough to add it at every second change - or add half the bottle at every change.
It doesn't even have to cost any more, buy a good quality 5W-30 oil at less than £30 mark and add £5 (half bottle) of molyslip, beats buying Castrol edge at it's inflated price and flashy packaging.
And if any of you are thinking that I work for a company that makes molybdenum additives - well I certainly do not, but have an engineering background and a long history of doing large annual mileages in cars without a problem (and without ever adjusting the tappets on GD Jazz).
and another thought, the reason that motorbikes with 'wet' clutches (running in engine oil) cannot use moly in their oil is that it causes the clutch to slip by reducing the friction - :-X
Post by: guest2853 on October 14, 2013, 03:13:34 PM
Honda's can run with this oil; it is great for cold starts, cold engine protection and fuel savings.
The 10W 40 is an obsolete oil; good for my motorcycle but that is a different issue.
Post by: bayliss40 on June 05, 2020, 09:09:37 PM
So can anyone please help on a suggestion?
Thanks in advance.
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Post by: Jocko on June 06, 2020, 10:23:35 AM
My car uses a bit of oil so when I finish the oil bought for my service I top up with 10W-40 Semi-synthetic Carlube £20.49 that I had for the previous car.
I change my engine oil and filter every 12,000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first. Check your oil warm, after it has been standing for 5 minutes with the engine off, and on level ground. Mine normally sits halfway between Full and Fill. If I top up to Full then the next time I check it is back to the halfway mark. If I leave it there it sits there for weeks.
My car has done 127,000 miles (2006 i-DSi).
Post by: bayliss40 on June 06, 2020, 10:28:56 AM
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Post by: madasafish on June 06, 2020, 11:08:00 AM
£27.49
Post by: sparky Paul on June 06, 2020, 11:09:13 AM
Main dealer serviced our 2015 last year, just before purchase, they used Shell Helix synthetic 5W-30. They've starting bugging the other half to take it in for another service, I'm afraid they're out of luck.
Post by: sparky Paul on June 06, 2020, 11:27:09 AM
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Engine-Oil-SHELL-Helix-Ultra-Professional-AG-5W30-Fully-Synthetic-5L-5-Litres/292338926019?hash=item4410c201c3:g:H6oAAOSwJzpces4g
£27.49
Best keeping an eye out for good offers like the £16 deal, and buy in advance.
Post by: bayliss40 on June 06, 2020, 11:28:54 AM
Another question roughly how much for a service, was quoted £180 to £210?
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Post by: sparky Paul on June 06, 2020, 11:37:57 AM
Another question roughly how much for a service, was quoted £180 to £210?
Main dealer?
https://www.honda.co.uk/cars/owners/3-years-plus.html
Fixed price £180 for a basic oil service, £290 for super duper including air, pollen filters and brake fluid. £90 extra for CVT.
Plus the bits of work they 'find'.
Post by: bayliss40 on June 06, 2020, 11:47:31 AM
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Post by: bayliss40 on June 06, 2020, 11:54:26 AM
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Post by: culzean on June 06, 2020, 12:06:34 PM
What's CVT?
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Continuously variable transmission - a system of belts and conical pulleys used in some vehicles, they do not have fixed gears.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continuously_variable_transmission
Post by: culzean on June 06, 2020, 12:31:14 PM
Bought one of these a few years ago and very useful - have used it for a lot of things other than sucking engine oil out through dipstick hole ( although it has been used for that and I measure the amount of oil it sucked out and it seemed to get it all ) - only change filter every two years now as my annual mileage is not high any more. Makes changing oil a doddle and means you don't have to worry about drain plug washers and it you over or under tightened it etc.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000WZF74M?tag=duc08-21&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1
Post by: bayliss40 on June 08, 2020, 07:23:27 AM
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Post by: FordPrefect8 on June 08, 2020, 08:15:25 AM
Is servicing a Honda Jazz an easy job to do? I usually service my wife's old Clio as it's easy to do.
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I’d say it is. I regularly service two Jazzes mk2 and its only fun with all the vast info resources available online:)
Post by: sparky Paul on June 08, 2020, 09:04:54 AM
Is servicing a Honda Jazz an easy job to do? I usually service my wife's old Clio as it's easy to do.
No more difficult than the Clio.
If you want easy, get yourself one of the vacuum oil extractors mentioned above.
Post by: madasafish on June 08, 2020, 10:09:42 AM
Is servicing a Honda Jazz an easy job to do? I usually service my wife's old Clio as it's easy to do.
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I’d say it is. I regularly service two Jazzes mk2 and its only fun with all the vast info resources available online:)
I still diy to Jazz and I am over 70...so it has GOT to be easy...
Post by: bayliss40 on June 08, 2020, 10:46:56 AM
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Post by: sparky Paul on June 08, 2020, 11:02:44 AM
Thanks everyone. I usually borrow a Haynes manual from the local library, but since they are closed are there any online resources you could recommend?
The official Honda service manual is a useful online resource
http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual.html
Servicing is very straightforward though, the only unusual thing to bear in mind is that there are 8 spark plugs to change.
Post by: Jocko on June 08, 2020, 11:18:18 AM
Post by: bayliss40 on June 08, 2020, 11:23:51 AM
, just as well you said Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
Post by: culzean on June 08, 2020, 11:31:27 AM
8 spark plugs, it's not a V8
Even garages miss the rear plugs and they get left in for ever and the gap gets bigger and that is when jerking and misfiring can happen. Another problem is that when they are not changed the large gap can cause coil pack insulation to fail....
Post by: culzean on June 08, 2020, 11:35:28 AM
I have the Haynes manual for the Mk1 Jazz. It's as much use as a chocolate fireguard.
Haynes manuals do tend to be a bit general on some things, but IMHO better than having nothing. at least they tell you to change all 8 spark plugs.
Post by: Jocko on June 08, 2020, 11:54:52 AM
Post by: tonytan on June 08, 2020, 11:58:15 AM
I personally would be wary of using such a light viscosity oil on an older vehicle especially if it has covered more than 100,000 miles due to the oil burning issue but I use the 0W20 in one of my Jazz that has done 60000 miles with no oil burning issues whatsoever or no more noticeable audible engine noise.
Post by: culzean on June 08, 2020, 12:00:46 PM
Haynes manuals used to be great. I rebuilt my first ever gearbox with a Haynes manual and a set of good spanners. Now anything more complicated than emptying the ashtray they suggest "See your dealer".
I think that modern cars are so much more complicated than the older ( agricultural ) ones that many things like ABS problems the manual is going to say 'consult dealer' ( maybe for legal reasons ) that is all most modern instruction manuals seem to say as well ( 90% of them is health and user safety warnings - and a few pages with faults listed and 'consult manufacturer' for most of them ) - there is much in modern cars in the form of electrics, electronics, servos and software that is not fixable by average DIY home mechanic anyway.
Post by: culzean on June 08, 2020, 12:08:41 PM
Honda UK now officially recommends 0W-20 for the majority of petrol engines since 2003 with the exception of diesels and hybrid,pre 2006 Civic Type R,Legend,pre 2005 HRV, S2000 and NSX.
The fact that the thin oils are advertised as 'fuel saving' and not 'ultimate engine protection' worries me a bit, and they tend to be pricey, where a good brand 5W-30 is very good value. As I have said previously most highly stressed motorbike engines tend to recommend use of 10W40 and actually warn against using thinner grades.
Post by: Jocko on June 08, 2020, 03:54:32 PM
Post by: Ozzie on June 08, 2020, 06:15:01 PM
Post by: bayliss40 on June 09, 2020, 10:56:42 PM
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Post by: Jocko on June 10, 2020, 08:25:14 AM
Post by: springswood on June 10, 2020, 10:19:10 AM