Recent Posts
21
Honda Jazz Mk2 2008-2015 / Re: Stiff gear shift
« Last post by olduser1 on May 11, 2025, 03:27:53 PM »Recommend search for i-shift gear change on this section if the forum.
22
Honda Jazz Mk4 2020 - / Re: dash cam fitting
« Last post by Lord Voltermore on May 11, 2025, 12:21:17 PM » I have fed my wire in a way that I dont think will impede the airbag. (Just a reminder that I connect my dashcam to one of the rear usb sockets using a 3 metre long power lead. For me this has the benefits of being straightforward, easily reversible, is not a modification for insurance purposes, Doest congest the front sockets, and I can simply unplug the dashcam in countries where they are illegal (Austria,Luxemburg and Portugal )
The lead is tucked behind the headlining along the top of the windscreen.Then tucked between the plastic "A" pillar cover for the airbag and the soft rooflining. The cover overlaps the lining by a few millimeters, enough to conceal the wire, but would IMO allow the airbag cover to fly off if the airbag is deployed. I have kept the wire taut so I dont think its long enough to sag down and impede any airbag mechanisms. But to be on the safe side you could secure the wire to the roof lining material in some way, maybe clips or glue, or even a few stitches into the roof lining material with a needle and thread. The wire then slips under the door weather seal. (See first photo where the wire is just visible)
There is a recessed channel under the weather seal. The wire sits in this channel and the rubber seal seals back in place snugly without any bulge.
The second photo shows the wire emerge from the door seal about halfway along the drivers door. It could emerge sooner if necessary to lead it to a front usb or hardwiring.
I have then routed mine through a hatch in the carpet that covers the chassis number. It continues under the carpet, emerging again at an air vent pipe near the rear usb points . Its not difficult to feed it under the carpet but you could just hide it under mats.
Third photo shows it plugged in. I have left mine fairly free as I seldom carry rear passengers but you could secure it better. This works for me.
The lead is tucked behind the headlining along the top of the windscreen.Then tucked between the plastic "A" pillar cover for the airbag and the soft rooflining. The cover overlaps the lining by a few millimeters, enough to conceal the wire, but would IMO allow the airbag cover to fly off if the airbag is deployed. I have kept the wire taut so I dont think its long enough to sag down and impede any airbag mechanisms. But to be on the safe side you could secure the wire to the roof lining material in some way, maybe clips or glue, or even a few stitches into the roof lining material with a needle and thread. The wire then slips under the door weather seal. (See first photo where the wire is just visible)
There is a recessed channel under the weather seal. The wire sits in this channel and the rubber seal seals back in place snugly without any bulge.
The second photo shows the wire emerge from the door seal about halfway along the drivers door. It could emerge sooner if necessary to lead it to a front usb or hardwiring.
I have then routed mine through a hatch in the carpet that covers the chassis number. It continues under the carpet, emerging again at an air vent pipe near the rear usb points . Its not difficult to feed it under the carpet but you could just hide it under mats.
Third photo shows it plugged in. I have left mine fairly free as I seldom carry rear passengers but you could secure it better. This works for me.
23
Honda Jazz Mk2 2008-2015 / Re: Stiff gear shift
« Last post by bohma2000 on May 11, 2025, 11:42:17 AM »In case its not clear, the car is a semi automatic.
24
Honda Jazz Mk4 2020 - / Re: dash cam fitting
« Last post by jaykay1975 on May 11, 2025, 11:08:10 AM »Really interesting post as I’ve held back from installing a dash cam precisely because of the a pilar airbag obstruction hazard. It’s a real shame that you weren’t able to share some pictures or even a video as it would have been extremely helpful for us less confident novice’s.
25
New Members / Re: Hi all from Derbyshire
« Last post by RichardA on May 11, 2025, 10:57:29 AM »Hello and welcome. 
26
Honda Jazz Mk2 2008-2015 / Stiff gear shift
« Last post by bohma2000 on May 11, 2025, 10:44:42 AM »The gear shift on my 2009 HONDA JAZZ I-VTEC EX S-A has become very stiff to operate. Does anybody know what could be causing this? If its any clue, the car has not had very much use over the last three weeks but before it was used daily.
27
Honda Jazz Mk4 2020 - / Re: Wipers: blades or rubbers?
« Last post by Nicksey on May 11, 2025, 10:24:17 AM »I fitted Valeo to all, front and rear approx 2k ago. So far they have been excellent, and definitely better than the OEMs.
28
Honda Jazz Mk4 2020 - / Re: Wipers: blades or rubbers?
« Last post by embee on May 11, 2025, 08:23:56 AM »I also recommend the Bosch Aerotwins. I fitted some Denso equivalents on my Yaris and they are also excellent.
29
Honda Jazz Mk4 2020 - / Re: Wipers: blades or rubbers?
« Last post by Downsizer on May 10, 2025, 06:31:10 PM »I’ve always bought just the rubbers. You have to cut them to length to match the old ones, but it’s quite an easy job, easier than removing the whole blade I think.
30
Honda Jazz Mk4 2020 - / Re: dash cam fitting
« Last post by pirmers on May 10, 2025, 04:34:34 PM »I hoped to post details of recent dash cam fitting, with several jpg images, but I have had to give up trying to embed these. I used a hard wired power module bought with the camera, and the A pillar wire routing is likely to be of most interest. Here is a brief account of that, text only!
Exploring the A pillar, I found that the airbag extends down nearly to the V join of the main pillar and the forward spar. From the airbag, there is a tether tape to about half way down the A pillar. I therefore wanted the wiring to be entirely to the windscreen side of the airbag installation. I found images of the plastic trim, apparently a triangle shape fitting all round the quarter light, and screwed together. It was not clear how it detached without high risk of breaking the plastic clips.
By freeing the rubber door seal, it was possible to pry the trim enough to see inside without much strain on the clips. From the top corner of the windscreen, a length of 5mm nylon tube fed easily under the trim, then down to emerge below the (rolled up) airbag. This looked very promising, but rather than trying to drag the camera cable back up through the limited gap (it being much bigger with a RT angle USB C plug and a ferrite filter bead), I opted to cut the cable which was of similar size to the trial tube. This worked a treat, in no time fed correctly past the airbag, routed to the proper side of the tether, and down to emerge under dash beside the fuse box. There is a wodge of foam that can be easily adjusted to fix the run of the cable.
The camera cable consists of only three ordinary wires. I fitted a miniDIN plug and socket that I happened to have, but would suggest something easier. Or use individual joins or spade connectors, and best to heat shrink insulation over for safety. Whatever is used, ensure the power module live pins are the shrouded ones.
Exploring the A pillar, I found that the airbag extends down nearly to the V join of the main pillar and the forward spar. From the airbag, there is a tether tape to about half way down the A pillar. I therefore wanted the wiring to be entirely to the windscreen side of the airbag installation. I found images of the plastic trim, apparently a triangle shape fitting all round the quarter light, and screwed together. It was not clear how it detached without high risk of breaking the plastic clips.
By freeing the rubber door seal, it was possible to pry the trim enough to see inside without much strain on the clips. From the top corner of the windscreen, a length of 5mm nylon tube fed easily under the trim, then down to emerge below the (rolled up) airbag. This looked very promising, but rather than trying to drag the camera cable back up through the limited gap (it being much bigger with a RT angle USB C plug and a ferrite filter bead), I opted to cut the cable which was of similar size to the trial tube. This worked a treat, in no time fed correctly past the airbag, routed to the proper side of the tether, and down to emerge under dash beside the fuse box. There is a wodge of foam that can be easily adjusted to fix the run of the cable.
The camera cable consists of only three ordinary wires. I fitted a miniDIN plug and socket that I happened to have, but would suggest something easier. Or use individual joins or spade connectors, and best to heat shrink insulation over for safety. Whatever is used, ensure the power module live pins are the shrouded ones.
