Clubjazz - Honda Jazz & HR-V Forums
Honda Jazz Forums => Hybrid => Topic started by: Chris Hunt on December 13, 2020, 10:55:53 PM
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Hi All,
my Jazz IMA needs a new battery cooling fan as the one fitted takes enough current to blow fuse 53 and switch the IMA system off.
Question is: Secondhand Jazz units are rare but Civic IMA fans are available - are these the same fan?
They are a different part number but is this only the housing?
Thanks
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Before junking the old fan. remove it and clean it out (See YouTube). Often full of dirt and overheat as a result
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Thanks for the feedback, took the fan apart and check the transistors driving the motor - one was shorted so purchase a better equivalent from RS and fitted yesterday. Test drive today of 25 miles+ with lots of full load acceleration and all works well. Fix was 1 MOSFET and 1 fuse, less than £3.
Don't let Honda Dealers write off your older IMAs, just fix them.
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Brilliant result..
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Brilliant result..
Agreed 8)
Can't beat a cheap fix!
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Thanks for the comments.
A bit of background that might help others.
IMA light came on and no IMA features active on hottest day of the summer 4 up going up hill - a clue?
Looked complex so took to main dealer who wanted £++ for diagnostic time but also ME to purchase new inverter and control modules to allow them to complete diagnostic only, not a fix. Cost about £5500. They also offered £100 for the car as trade-in (we buy any ... quote £5400). Not too happy with that so purchased secondhand rear assembly and went down several blind alleys testing and balancing batteries etc. Fuses and fan were asked about but dealer said they were good.
Further searching on web talked about Fuse 53 which was blown. System worked with new fuse and fan disconnected until battery got hot enough to ask for fan then IMA light on but still operating. Tried to find a secondhand fan but none so attempted fix. Beware if doing the same, board uses lead free solder that melts about 50C higher than normal soldering irons but else easy.
Enjoy.
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Thanks.
Always knew main dealers had minimal electronics expertise . (They usually do not need it due to reliability)
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Always knew main dealers had minimal electronics expertise . (They usually do not need it due to reliability)
If there isn't a replacement assembly on the shelf, they've had it!
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Thanks for the comments.
A bit of background that might help others.
IMA light came on and no IMA features active on hottest day of the summer 4 up going up hill - a clue?
Looked complex so took to main dealer who wanted £++ for diagnostic time but also ME to purchase new inverter and control modules to allow them to complete diagnostic only, not a fix. Cost about £5500. They also offered £100 for the car as trade-in (we buy any ... quote £5400). Not too happy with that so purchased secondhand rear assembly and went down several blind alleys testing and balancing batteries etc. Fuses and fan were asked about but dealer said they were good.
Further searching on web talked about Fuse 53 which was blown. System worked with new fuse and fan disconnected until battery got hot enough to ask for fan then IMA light on but still operating. Tried to find a secondhand fan but none so attempted fix. Beware if doing the same, board uses lead free solder that melts about 50C higher than normal soldering irons but else easy.
Enjoy.
I'm sure this post will be worth it's weight in gold to somebody at some point in the future 8)
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Thanks for the feedback, took the fan apart and check the transistors driving the motor - one was shorted so purchase a better equivalent from RS and fitted yesterday. Test drive today of 25 miles+ with lots of full load acceleration and all works well. Fix was 1 MOSFET and 1 fuse, less than £3.
Don't let Honda Dealers write off your older IMAs, just fix them.
A top class post, Just £3 to save a valuable car and snatch their owners from the jaws of despair.
Please post the a detail for the Mosfet, the RS part number or the manufacturer's device number
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The whole fan test and repair as follows.
You will need a hot (lead free) soldering iron, a solder sucker and normal hand tools.
Remove cover from fan.
Locate the three large soldered connection to motor winding in the centre of the board and unsolder these.
Look at each power transistor and identify the thin track to each - this is the gate drive and NOT the terminal to test.
Measure the resistance between the other two 'thick track' contacts on each transistor in turn. The broken one will measure a very low resistance.
Transistors fitted are type 2SK3755, you can get these from RS or Amazon but long delivery when I wanted some.
Transistor used was a TK72A12N1, (RS 896-2432) slightly higher thermal resistance but lower on resistance.
Remove the heatsink from the board and transistors. This involved digging solder from cross head screws but easy enough.
Unsolder the faulty transistor, preform the legs of the new one and carefully solder it in making sure solder does not bridge to other tracks.
Refit heatsink, resolder motor windings, cover on and all done.
Enjoy
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Thanks a lot!!!!! Same transistor successful replaced in My 2011 Insight. Original replaced same same as you described!!!
You deserve some cold beer!!!🍺🍺🍺
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Hi Chris,
I have the same blowing fuse 53 on my Honda Fit Hybrid.
Was this a long term fix.
Cheers
Nic