Author Topic: Headunit Removal and Putting in AUX from FL in PFL Jazz GD  (Read 9979 times)


  • Approved Member
  • *
  • Posts: 437
  • Country: gb
  • My Honda: 2004 1.4 SE Manual
Headunit Removal and Putting in AUX from FL in PFL Jazz GD
« on: September 06, 2016, 06:45:33 PM »
This is a guide for those of you who no longer want to put up with changing CDs/Cassettes in your early model Jazz/Fit (GD). Facelift cars with the large button stereos came with built-in Aux input which enabled you to stream music off your MP3 players, Smartphones, iPod etc. All PFL cars are fitted with a blank on the centre console which reminds you of what could have been.

I searched long and hard on how to remove head unit but it seems like it is clipped in so hard that there is a high chance that you will damage the corners/dash trying to pry it off so here is how you do with out any of that.

This guide can also be used by people looking to replace the headunit with an aftermarket one.

Equipment required:
* Aux port and wiring from a FL Jazz as it is backward compatible
(if you cannot source the port, worry not as I did another guide on how to build your own. Find it here: Wiring AUX in Honda Jazz GD using DIY 3.5mm AUX cable

Tools you need:
* Philips head screwdriver [preferably with magnetic head]
* 8mm socket
* 6" Socket extension
* Trim removal tools

45-60 minutes (only because you don't want to damage anything)

This job is best achieved from the passenger side of the car.

This is what we are faced with. The cassette version from early Jazz looks pretty much the same. You can see the Aux button next to the slot which doesn't do anything.. It will in a while.

Here you see the blank on the centre console conveniently cut out in the shape of the Aux socket of FL cars.

This is the Aux cable taken off from a junk yard FL car. The green cable goes in the back of the headunit in the CD changer port while Black box with Aux written on it goes inside the centre console.

Mind you when asking the breaker to send you the port, make sure they send you the cable or atleast part of it on both ends as the wire is tied into the dashboard loom and is hard to take off. This was very kindly supplied by TG so he's the one to contact if you want a pre-wired solution or you can make it yourself (I will list the method in another guide)

Now to start the dismantling.

Look under the heater controls and you will see a single Philips screw.

Take a stubby screwdriver and take it off. If your screwdriver is a bit long you won't have the space to put it straight on the screw head as it will catch the cup holder.

Next we need to take off the bottom cover off the heater controls. There are two metallic clips either side on leading edge which you can release by pushing the sides in a bit and pulling. Do not use any tools, this can be done by hand just need a bit of wiggling.

Bottom cover off, you can see the tabs at the back of the cover and clip on front edge.

Cover off the heater controls now you need to lie down in the floor area of passenger side and look up between the grey dash and the white plastic of heater controls.

Look up in there and you will see this bolt with Philips head however its recommended that you use socket to loose it so you don't strip it.

And another one on the driver's side..

8mm socket on a long extension will do.
Again Don't buy cheap tools off eBay as they will bend like this one did when I tried using it to open a wheel bearing nut.

I loosened the bolt using the socket then used the screwdriver with a magnetic head for the last bit as there is a very high chance it will fall inside the dash never to be seen again.

After undoing the screws, we come to the next part which involves gaining access to the back of the headunit for reason explained next.

For that you need to open the glovebox.

A light tug with both hands on the bottom part of the glovebox will enable you to remove the tray..

Tray out of the way you can now see some of the cabling for the heater controls. If you intend to replace the headunit, you will need to undo the 3 steel cables that operate flaps. one of them you can see circled, other two are in there aswell but in this case we are not removing headunit and just need access to the back of it for plugging in our Aux connector.

(btw that white plastic you see is where the cabin airfilter is located, good time to check on that)

Take a long socket extension with a narrow socket on end. you don't need to undo anything just need it for leverage.

So unlike most methods on internet which make you pry open the headunit and risking damaging the trim, this is the one I will recommend.. Put the long socket extension inside, place it near the edge .. obviously you are playing blind at the moment but trust me you can easily put it in the space between the dash and CD drive quite easily.. how to check if that is the case, well push a bit and you will see the edge of the stereo lift up a bit.

This is where the socket handle comes handy, it allows you put quite a good amount of force on the back of the headunit. A good constant push will lift the whole edge of the stereo off the dash.

Now you take your trim tool and slide it behind the headunit.. no chance of damaging the edge anymore

Once you have a bit of space you can just put your fingers in the gap and pull the thing off...

and there you go.. see the metal clips circled.. they are very hard to pull out if you attempt to pry open the stereo from the front so push from back is you best bet.

You can plug the Aux in without pulling out any cables or connectors so look from top and you will see that green connector.. that is the one you are after.

This one.. sorry don't have good pic of it as I didn't want to stress any cables so plugged the connector in without pulling it too far forward.

Connector plugged in, it is best to test the connection.. A good connection means when you press AUX on stereo, it will display AUX. A no show of AUX means connection is bad as there is a switch in the genuine Aux port which enables the function.

Test the connection with an Aux cable..

All good?
Now to mount the port in its OEM place on the console which we need to take off..

So now unscrew the gearknob..

Pull out the cover under the handbrake.. not required but might give you a place to pull if yours is stuck.

Rear of the console has one screw on either side, undo them.

and a push pin clip on either side of the front edge. Both of mine broke as soon as I touched them so take precaution.

Once these fasteners are undone, from the rear passenger space, push the console up .. the reason to lift it from rear first is so you don't accidentally pull on the lighter plug. .seen here.. Make sure you disconnect it before lifting the whole console off.

Because this clip is stuck on .. make sure you remove this by hand and fix it to the console.. But once this clip is free, you can lift the whole console out. Handbrake might interfere but I just pressed the botton to gain that extra cm of clearance.

(that is the fuel filter under this cover you are seeing here as Jazz's tank is under the front seats)

Drop the wire from the back of the headunit down from the driver's side. There is absolutely no space on the passenger side. I later zip tied it to the crash beam you see here (in silver) so it doesnt move or gets pulled.

Under the console you will see that the Aux port blank is actually a nicely screwed on cover. Undo that and screw the port in its place.

Before putting the console in place make sure to reconnect the lighter and Aux port plugs.

This is how the cable is routed to under the floor

Test the connection once again and if you are happy, push the headunit back in place.

Assembly is reverse of disassembly but goes like this:
Headunit clipped back in, Two 8mm bolts back in from under the heater controls, heater control cover in place with Philips screw, glove box back in. console pushed into place, screws done, clips done, gearknob screwed back in.

So there we have it. A nice shiny Aux port in place of that ugly blank and welcome to 21st Century!

I have a Bluetooth headset which I have plugged into this Aux port so I can now make calls through car's stereo (mic works great) and can also stream music using Bluetooth so pretty convenient.

So there! Head unit is now Aux enabled and in my case Bluetooth enabled!

I will be doing another DIY on how to wire your own Aux incase you cannot source the original AUX port. That will detail the wiring and the possible installation options.

Any questions, feel free to ask.

Many thanks to TG for supplying the port and the info that made this DIY possible.


  • New Member
  • Posts: 9
  • Country: gb
Re: Headunit Removal and Putting in AUX from FL in PFL Jazz GD
« Reply #1 on: September 19, 2016, 08:24:24 PM »
Thanks ever so much for this tremendously helpful guide - because of it I now have a fully functioning aux-in connector in my '53 Jazz. Thanks for taking the time to document it so that others can follow!

I picked up the aux-in cable from a breakers. They'd cut the cable, but I had the green connectors at both ends so I used some old Cat5 cabling and soldered the ends together. That was probably overkill, but it was a bit of a mission getting the headunit out, so I didn't want to be doing it again to fix a broken cable!

Some observations from my attempt:

  • -It took just over an hour for two of us doing it
  • -It really is a lot easier with two people!
  • -We found getting the heater control cover and the headunit off to be a real mission and more than once thought that we weren't going to be able to manage it. It really is just a case of wiggling and pressing, but two people really made a difference. It's worth noting that the headunit has those clips down the side as well as along the top. I used bicycle tyre levers once it started coming away and unfortunately made a small dent in the headunit's plastic surround.
  • -Really do use a magnetic screwdriver for those internal screws - we didn't have one so tried a piece of bluetak and ended up losing the screw into the dash. Amazing, it later turned up on the floor but neither of us have any idea how that happened, so don't rely on that!
  • -If you can't get to the internal screw on the right under the heater controls, just turn your heating dial up to max and the plastic bar that's blocking access will slide out of the way.
  • -The plastic screws at the front of the centre console snapped for me too.

Now that everything is back together, my AC LED no longer comes on when I press the button, but the AC still works, so I'm not sure what happened there?


Back to top