Clubjazz - Honda Jazz & HR-V Forums
Honda Jazz Forums => Honda Jazz Mk1 2002-2008 => Topic started by: WelshBeauty on June 19, 2021, 02:57:30 PM
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I'd like to buy the basic fluids, a premium oil, brake, clutch fluids, anti-freeze, etc. Model 1.4 i-DSI.
The literature that came with the car, says CASTROL all the way. Namely CASTROL SLX OW-30 fuel saver as the engine oil. Any recommendations?
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Welcome. For a DSi, I would go for 5W-30. 0W-30 is fine for a low mileage engine but for an older engine, 5W-30 will give better protection. Castrol is ideal.
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Welcome. For a DSi, I would go for 5W-30. 0W-30 is fine for a low mileage engine but for an older engine, 5W-30 will give better protection. Castrol is ideal.
+1
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culzean and Jocko could I just throw one thing into the mix. I bought this car 3 days ago, it has only done 7,400 miles in 13 years (genuine checked mileage). Would you both still go the 5W-30 route, or because of such low mileage revert back to 0W-30 . . . . ?
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It is important to use genuine Honda oil filters, they are a lot better then aftermarket.
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Thanks Droneranger, yes I know the mileage is unreal isn't it? 7,400 in 13 years. It's had 11 services!!!
Sounds like 5W-30 didn't do your high mileage 15,000 Jazz any harm.
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Personally I would still use 5W-30 Fully Synthetic. I have used 0W-30 in cars and bikes in the past but I feel it is just a bit too thin. I had cars with hydraulic tappets and they rattled on start up with the thinner oil after lying for a couple of days. The thinner oil should give better mpg but even in my search for mpg I still use 5W-30.
My 2006 has done 20 times your mileage.
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Here is a little simple info about engine oil. The 0W30 oil will protect the engine better at startup.
www.mrtonneau.com/0w30-oil-vs-5w30/
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Although my car is classed as a low-mileage example at 7,400 miles . . . . . it's still a 13 year old car, so I don't know if the usual rules apply, and I could still use 0W30 ?
Thank you for all the advice so far.
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Those engine oils branded high mileage, the high-mileage oils contain a chemical additive which causes oil seals to swell and reduce oil leakage, if your car does not leak oil, then do not use those oils, just use with the contemporary oil types.
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Although my car is classed as a low-mileage example at 7,400 miles . . . . . it's still a 13 year old car, so I don't know if the usual rules apply, and I could still use 0W30 ?
Thank you for all the advice so far.
I would treat the engine as if it were a new engine, if the dealer has been putting 0W30 in it, then I would stay with that.
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Those engine oils branded high mileage, the high-mileage oils contain a chemical additive which causes oil seals to swell and reduce oil leakage, if your car does not leak oil, then do not use those oils, just use with the contemporary oil types.
It is not just about leaks, it is also about maintaining oil pressure in older engines where bearing wear has made bearing gaps larger ( especially big ends ). 0W30 oil will be thinner when cold but the 30 means that when hot it will be same thickness as 5W30 I want the oil still to be in the bearings when I start the engine, not all drained back into the sump. However the hot viscosity is a fudge, the lower the cold viscosity the more 'viscosity modifiers' are needed in the oil, these are like bits of tangled string ( polymer chains ) that coil and uncoil as the oil temperature changes and get destroyed as the oil ages. Highly stressed motorbike engines often specify 10W40 oil.
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Those engine oils branded high mileage, the high-mileage oils contain a chemical additive which causes oil seals to swell and reduce oil leakage, if your car does not leak oil, then do not use those oils, just use with the contemporary oil types.
It is not just about leaks, it is also about maintaining oil pressure in older engines where bearing wear has made bearing gaps larger ( especially big ends ). 0W30 oil will be thinner when cold but the 30 means that when hot it will be same thickness as 5W30 I want the oil still to be in the bearings when I start the engine, not all drained back into the sump. However the hot viscosity is a fudge, the lower the cold viscosity the more 'viscosity modifiers' are needed in the oil, these are like bits of tangled string ( polymer chains ) that coil and uncoil as the oil temperature changes and get destroyed as the oil ages. Highly stressed motorbike engines often specify 10W40 oil.
As you say, all the oils have the same thickness when hot, so they all drain back into the sump at the same rate.
When cold the thinner oil gets to work faster to protect the engine, as it is already a lot closer to the operating thickness.
Let's not drift off too far with this post, why not just help the person who started it with his engine oil question and other fluids.
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Let's not drift off too far with this post, why not just help the person who started it with his engine oil question and other fluids.
Indeed.
It doesn't tell you an awful lot just going by the label category for viscosity, you really need to check the tech spec from the oil manufacturer. Nominal viscosity bands cover a relatively wide true range, and some manufacturers tend to make oils at one end of the range (Castrol bike oils tend to be at the low end, so the 10W40 is only just thicker than the top end of the 10W30 band for example).
Use what the manual recommends and you won't go far wrong.
0W-30 and 5W-30 will have very similar viscosities at 20C and upwards to the normal operating temp. What is usually more important is the quality of the additive pack, just go with a well known brand, Castrol, Mobil etc.
Bearing protection is about more than just gallery pressure, it is as much about flow rate as anything. Wear of valve train components is about additives. Bore/ring wear is about temperature stability. Longevity is about breakdown rate and ability to cope with contaminants (TBN etc).
FWIW when I come to do my mk.3 I intend to use the Honda 0W-20 stuff, it's not going to be junk. https://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/
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Thank you for all your replies so far, I have read all of them in detail. Please keep them coming.
I have a few further questions (as a new Honda Jazz owner)
1) Is it worth investing in decent clutch and brake fluids? Would I even need to use them, in a healthy car?
2) Anti-freeze is mixed 50/50 with tap water isn't it? Any recommendations for a decent anti-freeze.
3) Any other fluids/combustables I should have in my locker?
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One thing to be aware of. Something lots of mechanics don't seem to know. The DSi engine (Dual Spark) has EIGHT spark plugs. Four along the front and four along the back. Many times the rear set fail to get changed which leads to problems. Your's however, at 7,400 miles have probably never been looked at.
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Hi There, My oil preference is 1st choice Castrol 5w30 then 2nd choice 0w30, If you have service book they also give you report sheet one had 0w30 and another year had 5w30 (when I queried this they said whatever they had in stock and both covered my car). Brake fluid i always get a branded one (See europarts for compatible oils and fluids), Antifreeze yes you mix with tape water see percentage amount on bottle. I premix my antifreeze before filling up and then empty the bottle then top up with water, Make sure you set heater matrix to hot so that also empties and fills up.
Hope that helps Henry
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The manual gives you a choice depending on the temperature.
(https://i.imgur.com/5axufUL.jpg)
I have used 10W-40 to top up, as I had some spare in my garage.
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Be a little careful with coolants. The additives used are tailored for specific circumstances to suit different engines. One example is the use of silicates, which in some engines can lead to premature pump seal wear etc.
https://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/honda-shop/genuine-honda-type-2-coolant-5-litre-pre-mixed/ would suggest that it needs a silicate free coolant. Many are but some are not.
FWIW I haven't put anything in my Jazz as yet, but for my other vehicles I use Comma G30 which is based on the BASF Glysantin30 coolant and is silicate free, others are available. https://www.commaoil.com/products/results/91080622
Most coolants use ethylene glycol as the anti-freeze element, and should be mixed 50/50 with water.
As a rule, don't use tap water. Use either distilled or more likely de-ionised water. You can get 5L of de-ionised water from the likes of Eurocarparts for a couple of ££. Tap water may contain undesirable stuff (limescale etc).
At a push clean filtered rainwater is OK if nothing else is available.
Check whether the coolant you use is "ready to use" (pre-mixed) or is in concentrate form (add 50/50 water)
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Whether I plump for 5w30 or 0w30, should I pay attention to the additional lettering that some oils have?
I will explain.
Castrol EDGE 5W-30 LL
Castrol EDGE 0W-30 A5/B5
Castrol EDGE 0W-40 A3/B4
Or you can have just the straight 5w30 or 0w30?
Thanks
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LL are long life oils
Opie oil gives a list of oils for your car.
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/f/2354/38366/2008/engine-oil.aspx (https://www.opieoils.co.uk/f/2354/38366/2008/engine-oil.aspx)
I just buy quality oil of the viscosity I wish.
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I have used different coolants Like Halfords Pink OAT, and In motorbikes ( because it is easy to get all coolant out ) used Comma G30 to replace OEM coolant. Reason I used Honda https://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/honda-shop/genuine-honda-type-2-coolant-5-litre-pre-mixed/ in cars is that it was actually cheaper than others, or at least not wildly more expensive and because I never attempt to get all the coolant out of car engines ( had a problem years ago with persistent airlocks affecting heater etc after trying it ) I now just get out what comes out of a cold engine radiator ( thermostat remains closed ) which is normally 50% of total or about 2 litres ( I measure what comes out and make sure same amount goes back in ) and repeat the 50% change after a few weeks - The benefit of using Honda Blue ( silicate free ) stuff is that the coolant stays a nice blue colour, If you only change 50% you get a strange colour if you mix blue original with new pink or orange stuff..... It is not the antifreeze ( ethylene glycol ) part of coolant that wears out it is the anti-corrosion additives. Pretty much every aluminium engine made since about 1998 will be silicate free. If you put silicate coolant in it will play havoc with water pump seals.
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...... Reason I used Honda https://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/honda-shop/genuine-honda-type-2-coolant-5-litre-pre-mixed/ in cars is that it was actually cheaper than others, or at least not wildly more expensive and because I never attempt to get all the coolant out of car engines ( had a problem years ago with persistent airlocks affecting heater etc after trying it ) I now just get out what comes out of a cold engine radiator ( thermostat remains closed ) which is normally 50% of total or about 2 litres .....
.... Pretty much every aluminium engine made since about 1998 will be silicate free. If you put silicate coolant in it will play havoc with water pump seals.
Totally agree about the car engine coolant change principle, just drain out what comes easily and replenish. Don't try to get everything out. If done at regular intervals it's a perfectly good method.
There are some coolants for modern(ish) engines which do contain silicates, for example https://www.commaoil.com/passenger-vehicles/products/view/542 , just need to check the data sheets.
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I'm confused, should I go for silicate free Anti-Freeze, or with Silicates?
Thanks for everything so far lads.
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Try this for guidance:
https://www.commaoil.com/
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Thanks zzaJ, www.commaoil.com is a very thorough site.
They don't recommend top brands though do they? eg. Castrol, etc
But I could just buy the equivalent in Castrol I suppose?
Thanks though, brilliant site.
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Comma don't recommend other top brands because they are an oil/fluids company selling their own products. ;D
The Cox's site shows the Honda Type 2 coolant with the statement "Silicate free!" (sic), so it's a fairly safe bet that's the type to go with.
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I'm confused, should I go for silicate free Anti-Freeze, or with Silicates?
Thanks for everything so far lads.
Definitely silicate free! As far as I know only classic ( before 1998 LOL ) may need silicate - its an old technology.
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Tesco or Aldi often gets Castrol on offers 5w30
But, they also has sub categories to A5, C3, C2 etc. Does this sub categories important? Or any 5w30 Castrol is okay please? Tia!
Welcome. For a DSi, I would go for 5W-30. 0W-30 is fine for a low mileage engine but for an older engine, 5W-30 will give better protection. Castrol is ideal.
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Last lot of Castrol Magnatec A5 5w30 I got was from Halfords when it was on sale at £17.50. Sits in my garage ready for the next oil change.