I got a plug-in electrical kit for RHD by Right Connections. The instructions were rubbish and hadn't been visually translated (mirrored) to apply to RHD cars although the loom was correct.
I haven't done the full write-up yet on installation, primarily because I haven't quite finished it yet.
It's 99% complete, but I need to make connections to the fuseboard permanent.
Anyway, the RC kit shows the loom running from the battery through a pair of 10A fuses down the passenger/nearside/left of the car to the rear and across the back. I worked on a mirror image and ran it down the driver's/offside/right beside the car's own loom and stopped at the fuseboard below the right-hand end of the dashboard.
Whilst I had the trim out on the right-hand side of the boot, I fitted a Honda 12V socket to the little cubby hole in that panel. I had to fit it to the rear so the wiring would clear. The idea was/is to the run a cool box via an ignition live.
I fitted a (Polish made) towbar by Autohak, model Y27A with detachable swan neck,
DSCF8746 by
macplaxton, on Flickr
but if I remove the neck, the 12N socket sticks out too far when the bracket is attached to the rearmost bolts. In order to fit the electrics bracket to the forward most bolts, a spacer/washers/longer bolt would be needed.
DSCF8779 by
macplaxton, on Flickr
DSCF8766 by
macplaxton, on Flickr
Right connections kit 19070506RC:
IMG_20151217_161520_972 by
macplaxton, on Flickr
The electrics kit suggest drilling a hole in the spare wheel well, or at least enlarging an existing 20mm. (above and to the right of the jack in this pic:
IMG_20151227_085335_692 by
macplaxton, on Flickr
I chose not not drill anything and use the existing 30mm body hole below the nearside rear lamp.
DSCF8745 by
macplaxton, on Flickr
Also the two boot side plastic trim panels needed a large hole boring in them (nearest the rear luggage hooks) to clear the boltheads either side (another thing not in the instructions):
DSCF8785 by
macplaxton, on Flickr
DSCF8782 by
macplaxton, on Flickr
Wasn't happy the way the large washers sat against the ridges in the pressing of the rear valance, so trimmed them:
IMG_20151227_103540_976 by
macplaxton, on Flickr
IMG_20151227_105258_524 by
macplaxton, on Flickr
The bumper cutout needs to be only 60mm deep, rather than 80mm in the instructions:
DSCF8770 by
macplaxton, on Flickr
The big reg cable (size chosen to avoid too much voltage drop) is for the 12V socket, the trailer loom has twin red feeds. I forget which is which.
DSCF8695 by
macplaxton, on Flickr
Midway behind that inner sill plastic cover (driver's side rear door) is the main earth point for the rear of the car, I ran my 12V power socket electrics earth back to here:
DSCF8694 by
macplaxton, on Flickr
Earth I used for the trailer electrics, nearside inner panel just ahead of the nearside rear light cluster. Top is some relay I can't remember what for (cutting the foglight when electrics attached?) and bottom is the AFC unit for the indicators. It quite happily powers all of my incandescent bulbs without dimming or disco light effects.
DSCF8784 by
macplaxton, on Flickr
Here's some other clues as to the wiring:
Honda Jazz GD Offside rear light wiring by
macplaxton, on Flickr
Honda Jazz GD Nearside rear light wiriing by
macplaxton, on Flickr
DSCF8256a by
macplaxton, on Flickr
DSCF8257a by
macplaxton, on Flickr
DSCF8259a by
macplaxton, on Flickr
DSCF8261a by
macplaxton, on Flickr
DSCF8263a by
macplaxton, on Flickr
And finally, the "in a hurry because in 4 hours I've got to get the ferry which is 2½ hours away" bodge. Don't copy this and finish the job properly...
DSCF8795 by
macplaxton, on Flickr
a) the two 2A fuses (fuses 20 & 21) are just there to hold the wires into the live side of the fuse holder.
b) the two wires have an in-line fuse of 10A each.
c) the idea is to work out which of those green/grey plugs has spare holes that actually connect to the fuses holders for 20 & 21 and then properly crimp the terminals onto the relevant connectors and insert them into the appropriate multiplug.
d) The wiring instructs show the two wires connected onto the battery live, so always live. IIRC, 21/22 are always live and not ignition-switched live.
e) the fuseboard shown is used in the facelift 2005 UK (KE) model, the fuseboard is different on the 2002-04. Both my Jazzes are 1.4SE CVT models (one with sunroof and one without).
As I've said, I'll do a proper write-up one day, but this is just point out some of the pitfalls to avoid with the quite frankly sketchy instructions for both towbar and electrics kit.