Replacing Front Bottom Crankshaft Seal

[ianhj]

Hi,

Does anyone know how hard this is to change? There's been a very slight weep on that area of the sump for over 15 months but now its forming into a drip and is steadily getting worse (now showing on the under tray).

Have scoured the net but can't find any DIY guides on a Jazz or Fit.

I'm not averse at having a go at it myself but wondered if anyone knew how long a garage might take or how difficult it is to do?

Many thanks in advance

Ian

[VicW]

Hi Ian,   I had a weep of oil from my first Jazz that appeared to be coming from the gearbox end crankshaft oil seal but it was difficult to diagnose because the air flow spread the oil around.
The car was still under warranty fortunately but the dealer had two goes to fix it.
The initial diagnosis was that the sump oil seal had failed not the crankshaft seal, note seal not gasket, so it was replaced.
After a couple of weeks the weep came back and this time the dealer returned to basics and replaced the seal again but used gasket sealant as well.
Problem solved.

Vic.

[ianhj]

Thanks VicW for that info. Interesting they resorted to gasket sealant.

My leak is from the auxiliary belt side of the engine. I think its the seal behind the crank pulley.

Cheers

Ian

[guest5079]

If you refer to the online workshop manual, under Timing/cam chain then cam chain removal ( You need this to show how to get to the seal) and then Cam chain case oil seal replacement all is revealed. Good luck looks as though its a barrel load of laughs.

[madasafish]

Buy a tube of oil additive. Swells the seals, stops the leak. Last for 12-18 months. Far easier.

[davegreen55]

Buy a tube of oil additive. Swells the seals, stops the leak. Last for 12-18 months. Far easier.

I would go along with that. I have used this one in the past on other engines and found that it worked well.
https://www.wynns.eu/product/engine-stop-leak/

[ianhj]

Hi,

Thanks everyone for all the advice/suggestions.

I've ordered the seal but may well go down the engine additive route until the weather warms up when I may give replacing the seal a go. Will check out the online manual too.

cheers

Ian

[ianhj]

Well the weather's warmed up and I finally had the time to get the car up and off the ground to attempt the above repair.

Now it's probably cost me more in tools than getting it carried out at a dealer but at least I've got the satisfaction of doing it myself and I get to keep the tools!!

I spent a lot of time researching this as much as possible and my main concern was getting the crank pulley bolt off. There are some horror stories out there, videos of people using scaffold poles as extension bars. In the end I imported this socket from the USA via Amazon.com: Lisle harmonic balancer socket 77080 19mm

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RGNCV1U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It cost around 42 USD.

Coupled with my Dewalt 899 Impact driver it was literally off in seconds! Result.

I also bought a seal remover/installer set off Ebay (cost £31.00) and a 50mm crankshaft pulley wrench holder for £15. I also used a couple of breaker bars - 600 and 750mm long

To begin with I downloaded all of the necessary info from the GE8 online Manual that's often been referred to in the past.

http://hondafitjazz.com/manual3/

Removing the auxiliary belt was straightforward. Putting it back on took longer. An extra extra long 19mm spanner would have helped.

Once the pulley bolt is off the pulley just slides off. No need for a gear 'puller'. Just take care with the woodruff key and which way around it is fitted (its ends are chamfered on one side) and I wasted a few minutes working out which way it should  go in on re-assembly.

Seal removal. I tried to use the tool that came in the seal remover kit but it wouldn't properly purchase on the rear of the seal.  So I resorted to using a screwdriver which because of the way the crankshaft and the opening is manufactured it can be used without damaging any surfaces which is vital.

Installing the seal was straightforward. The Honda seal part number is: 91212-RB0-004 (£16 inc postage)
is pre greased and gently tapping it in with the correct sized adapter from the remover kit meant it went in square.


Hardest part literally, when putting the pulley back on, was having torqued the pulley bolt to 27 lbs/ft was turning it an additional 90 degrees as per the manual. Well I managed to break a socket adapter from Halfords (thankfully it has a lifetime guarantee so will be getting it replaced) I was pushing down so hard on it. Anyway I got it to about 80 degrees and couldn't get it to tighten any more - fingers crossed its tight enough - time will tell.

Total time taken was about an hour and a half (and if it leaks I could hopefully do it all again inside an hour).

Hope the above is useful.






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[guest1372]

Excellent news - this is the kind of post I like to see.
--
TG

[culzean]

Excellent news - this is the kind of post I like to see.
--
TG

+1

yes,  good to see posters getting to know the innards of their vehicle  - glad to see you used 'full hexagon' sockets - those double hex (12 pointed) sockets are pretty destructive on bolt heads.  One thing about tools is that once you have a decent collection you can tackle most jobs and save a lot of money, and as you say there is the satisfaction of knowing correct parts and torques used, which isn't a given with most garages these days.

[guest5079]

Very well done. I am a great fan of the online manual.
Hope it gives you the confidence to tackle ( hopefully few) any future jobs that crop up.

[longlegpete]

Well done and thanks for taking the time to post it,  Good to see people getting a little dirty,  I'm also a fan of my Dewalt impact driver and the tools v labour, like you i would rather pay for tools than labour and you have them to play with after