Clubjazz - Honda Jazz & HR-V Forums
Honda Jazz Forums => Honda Jazz Mk1 2002-2008 => Topic started by: guest6693 on April 01, 2017, 03:15:04 PM
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Hello everyone!
Not long after i bought a honda jazz 1.2 2008 MK I idts i realised it's a base model and does not accomodate a remote locking system. I bought this car on reliability as i do long trips quite often. But this thing is bothering me as all the previous cars i owned came with the remote central locking.
I tried to find out but the dealership discontinued its OEM remote locking system as after 2008 models all cars have remote locking as standard.
Found some cheap universal remote locking system of ebay, but I haven't got a clue how to install it. There isn't any obvious video posted on this model for me to follow as well.
So i was wondering if anyone with such knowledge can help me with the where and how to install it and the how do i work my way through the fuse cluster system and any relevant information please.
Any info will be much appreciated.
Thanks.
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I would go the breakers yard route & obtain Honda parts off your local yard, good luck with the project.
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Thanks, good to know what u'd do, but your response doesn't seem to help me a lot, much appreciated tho :P
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OK I've talked a couple of people through this - it's quite straightforward but does require you to put your head upside down in the driver's footwell and make connections to fairly tight wiring behind the kick-panel.
Unfortunately Honda seems to use a model specific minimum wiring loom, so although I once sent a remote receiver and blipper key to a forumite, the plug to connect it was not there so that project faltered, but the good news is generic kits containing two blippers, a control box and a wiring loom are available on eBay / Amazon for £10 http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=remote+locking (http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=remote+locking)
You may also find some splice connections and a multimeter useful but not essential, plus a cushion for the footwell to save your shoulder.
I'm going to cut paste some instructions from a previous response of mine below once I've found them.
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TG
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The eBay keyless units are all universal and can be set up to suit different cars at installation. Most of the wires can be ignored, e.g. you don't need it bibbing the horn, flashing the indicators and closing the windows so the simplest units are probably the best, and you won't need actuators either.
Using wires from the drivers door key lock, the white wire is temporarily grounded to unlock, the white/red is temporarily grounded to lock the central locking, so follow the set up instruction in the kit for 'pulse low' or 'negative trigger'.
This connects to the loom from the drivers door that pass through the footwell area next to the fusebox. There is space to hide the receiver behind the panel to the right of the fusebox (which is where the original receiver would live).
The existing wiring is quite tight and you'll need to spend an hour with your head stuck in the footwell, but quite a few people have done this.
From drivers key mechanism and taken momentarily to ground (black):
White = Unlock
White/red = Lock
Quite a few choices to get permanent 12v and ground nearby.
http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual (http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual) > wiring diagrams > power door lock system
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Shouldn't need to take off the door panel, the wiring can be done from the footwell. The panel above the pedals is the most useful to remove (twist clip + 2 friction clips along front edge) and it might help to take out the fusebox cover (unclips) and the trim that surrounds it (screws + clip). The wiring diagrams from before will help you find one of the 12v wires and you can use a bolt for the ground connection
There's also a useful connector for the door wiring hidden by the trim around the bonnet release lever.
(http://i66.tinypic.com/9zlx54.jpg)(http://i63.tinypic.com/2m2za11.jpg)(http://i63.tinypic.com/6j0aq9.jpg)(http://i67.tinypic.com/33kw20h.jpg)
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The door wires for locks, windows and mirrors pass through the rubber grommet then down to a grey and blue connector in the footwell. You should find a white/red and a white with silver grey blobs next to it on the grey connector (circled in image).
Remember leave a window open and to disconnect battery if you are going to start joining to these cables, there will be 12v present at all times as the driver's door keyswitch temporarily connects them to ground.
Power the unit via one of the existing fuses with a fusetap.
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Kit wires >>> Car wires
Yellow & yellow/black & black >>> ground (0 volts), i.e. under a bolt
Red >>> permanent 12v via a fuse
White >>> white/red (lock)
White/black >>> white (unlock)
Note that white does not connect to white. (although at least one kit has the lock & unlock buttons swapped over)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160612/4b367c87431011cd71a29c8ed8eb5f9e.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160613/371007455172ae436870fe74713ffc68.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160613/1dc48c89712d3c1bcaacceb7e7ab8c1c.jpg)
Just connect the red and black power wires first to test if it receives the signal from the remote. If that seems OK, move on to the (un)locking.
Probably a good idea to make sure there is no exposed cores of the other spare wires able to contact anything so tape them up.
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Looking at the car's horn and indicators / hazard light control circuit most of it is quite buried without removing further bits of trim, but the rear indicator lights cabling runs down the drivers side of the car and can be traced from the footwell. The indicators take quite a lot of power (21w + 5w + 21w) x 2 = 94w so it's seems beneficial that the two brown wires from the kit are fairly thick. You can connect one brown wire to the left hand indicators and the other brown wire to the right hand indicators, but they will need to be good connections to support the potential current draw.
The circuit diagram shows green/yellow for RH indicators and green/red for LH indicators, you could trace back the cable bundle that runs along the drivers sill to find where the connections are made to the under dash fusebox. (It's also a junction box with connections on both sides).
I'm not certain what the siren/horn connection will achieve, bibbing the horn when locking or unlocking is not much use. If it's for a panic alarm that might be worth it. You can hear the locks operate from quite a distance so that's all you really need to be sure it's working.
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160614/3eadecb91f9a8292dd1327f336ec74d5.jpg)
So, the indicators lights were connected on separate harness marked.
After connecting the brown wires from the kit, all working perfectly as expected!!
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I'm guessing Gavin is happy enough using his key.
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TG
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Thank you TG, your detailed and vivid description really helped me through the entire process, appreciate it. you're the star! ;D
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Happy to help.
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TG
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just an update for the future retro fitters, as mentioned earlier the wire loom under the footwell is preety tight, you hardly can do anything unless you are strongly determined to do it. cut the binding tape open to get more access to the wires. hard to get a 12v constant around that area so i used a fuse tap from no.28 (power door locks) of the fuse cluster, ground was pretty easy to get as your whole car body is a negative (no issue at all).
but my "lock" and "unlock" options worked just the opposite as suggested by TG above. the "unlock" button of my remote actually locked the car and "lock" button unlocked it. So i had to swap the wires resulting into below:
receiver wire car wire
white >>>>>>>> white
white/black >>>>>>> white/red
PS: It might just be a different kind of keyless entry system (its from ebay thou) or the wiring of my jazz (should be standard thou) :o
So, i strongly suggest keep checking as you go on every step, so you would save yourself some time and efforts.
Thanks to the Forum, without it I wouldn't have got it done, laughing now like :D :D
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This is a really useful guide TG!
I have a few questions though...
Im having some trough with this. I have wired it all up. The unit unlocks, but does not lock. I can hear the relays clicking but the doors do not lock.
The only thing I have done differently is that I made the connections on the other side of the plug in the footwell, but I cant see why this would matter?
One thing I noticed though. When i remove the plug and try to lock and unlock the car with the key, only the drivers side works, which makes sense as there is no power.
However, when I reconnect the plug; but still have the wires disconnected from the new block I still get central locking for the whole car. How can this be if the wires are cut?
Can anyone help with this??
Thanks
Matt
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Hi Matt,
If the drivers door keyswitch is still central locking the car then it suggests that the lock signal wire is still connected, same reasoning that the new remote lock signal is not locking the car as it's maybe connected to something else. The lock control wire from the keyswitch is the white with a red stripe, the unlock wire is the white one although it may also have the odd blob of paint every few inches along it. The two wires appear next to each other in this image. It should not matter which side of the connector you attach them. There are a few other wires that are similar such as white with a blue stripe or pale grey with a red stripe so it check your lock wires are in the same position as these on the top row next to the tab.
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2m2za11.jpg)
Click to expand
Hope this helps, and keep a window open while doing this!
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TG
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Thanks for the reply TG.
My thoughts are the same, I must have the wrong wire...but I am 100% sure I have the white/red wire that is circled in that picture.
Any other ideas? I can take a picture of the wiring if that helps?
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A picture might help. You could fold yourself into the car so you can close the doors and just try grounding the lock wire with a wire offcut; you can push the exposed end into the connector and then tap the other end to a ground point to see if it locks.
That triggers a memory (goes out to car to test theory)......
If any door or tailgate is open you will hear the unlock but not the locking clunk using the remote - all doors must be shut for the central locking to work, this way you won't walk away leaving an unseen door ajar.
I once discovered that you could only pair another remote with a Jaguar with the doors closed after an hour of trying multiple times.
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TG
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Thanks for the help :)
Im away from the car now so wont be able to try until monday, but will update then :)
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Fantastic thread, just installed a remote on a 2003 Jazz 1.4 S where the driver's door key stopped working.
Connectors were the same but wires weren't quite the same. I used the wires from the master switch on the door rather than the door key switch, which were white/blue and white/green from this wiring diagram
http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual/A00/HTML/00/SAA2E00000000000000EBAT00i012.HTML
Took power from the white/red wire to the floor loom plug from the fuse box and earth via a mounting bolt.
Haven't bothered with indicator or horn etc. Bit worried that the current draw for the indicators would be too much for the box I have anyway as the (dubious) instructions say only 5A load for them!
Anyway, great forum and many thanks.
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Thanks very much to this forum and particularly this topic for getting me up and running with a remote unlock kit (I bought the Hawk Ha-008 kit). My drivers door barrel won't allow a key into it for a while now so finally got around to fitting this this weekend.
My lock / unlock wires were same as TG's instructions. I took my time to make sure I got everything correct before cutting wires as the wires are so tight. I cut the lock / unlock wires before they get to the grey connector in the footwell as I found that easier to get at. I left the cut wire coming from the door lock unconnected for now as the lock does not work anyway and I can't see that it's causing any issue for me at the moment (passenger door, boot and interior master switch all operate central locking fine). I used the top bolt for the bonnet open as my grounding point - just crimped black, yellow/black and yellow wires into a fork type connector and put that under the bolt.
I didn't disconnect the battery whilst I worked which I know would have been advisable. I used a fuse tap / add a circuit for power and was very careful / took my time before cutting and connecting the lock /unlock.
All works a treat including deadlocking with a double press of the lock on the remote.
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Im having some trough with this. I have wired it all up. The unit unlocks, but does not lock. I can hear the relays clicking but the doors do not lock.
Please if anyone can help me.
Thanks
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Hi
I just fitted one of these units in my 2007 Jazz.
It locks ok but doesn't unlock. If I press unlock while the door is unlocked it sounds like the actuator is working, however when the door is locked nothing. Central locking is working from boot & passenger locks. Any ideas.
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Update.
Connected the the grounds directly to the car body and it works a charm.
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Hi all!
Just wanted to say thank you for all the helpful instructions and images here, without these I would've never attempted to fit the cheap aftermarket remote control to my Jazz. However, I still ran into some troubles, I'm not sure if I have a special version, but for me only the driver's side door would activate the central locking, so when that lock broke (got stuck) it was a real pain to get into the car (climb in through passenger side, reach over to unlock all other doors by pulling the pin on driver's side).
Anyway, I just wanted to add some pictures for people who have the same type arrangement and where the wires and colors likely also don't match the ones posted here earlier.
As you can see in the attached pictures below, there was only one 5-pin connector with relevant wires near the fusebox coming from the driver's side door. I found that the two leftmost ones activate the driver's side mechanism (likely a solenoid?), with reversing the polarity between them deciding if the door locks or unlocks. I tried tapping into that, but after a detailed look into the wiring diagram (I am still not sure which one applies in this situation, and the colors anyway did not match for me) I found that I would have to cut the wires so the remote can take over control (they'd be connected to ground while inactive, so injecting 12 V into either by themselves would lead to a short circuit). So you'd have to follow the relevant diagram from the manual that comes with your remote.
So in my case I had the orange and orange/black wires connected to ground, yellow and yellow/black connected to +12V (via a separate fuse tap) and the white and white black connected to the yellow and white/black wire from the 5 pin connector to the door.
If you want the indicators to blink for open/close you can use the green and green/yellow wires on the connector above, as you can see from the pictures I used wire tap connectors to tap the brown wires from the remote control unit to the indicator lights.
After spending way too much time in the foot rest area I am happy to report that this is all working really well for me, and I would like to thank all the people here for providing all this information. I hope this helps others who have similar lock problems and happen to have one of the Hondas like mine where the central locking seems to be wired a little differently.
https://imgur.com/a/ptxOZ7Y (https://imgur.com/a/ptxOZ7Y)
Cheers, Roland!
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Hi TG,
I recently bought a Honda Jazz 2005 GD3 1.5L and i wanted to install aftermarket alarm to it however i am unsure to which wires that the car has. Currently it has central locking, with the original remote working and drivers door button working.
I had a look on this thread, however your pictures on tinypic are gone. Are you able to repost those pictures please?
Thank you
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@TG was one of the most helpful, knowledgeable and genuinely nice people on this forum. Even offered once to come in person to help fix the issue I was having. Unfortunately, for reasons I don’t want to go into, he chose to leave this forum. I think you will need to look elsewhere for your images, sorry.
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Alright all good RichardFrost.