Pattern or genuine rear wheel bearings

[guest6115]

Hi, does anyone have experience of the pattern bearings/hubs on offer for the rear wheels.

I can find prices anywhere from sub £50 through to nearly £200 (genuine) but I'm not sure whether it is a good economy to buy pattern.

Regards
David

[trebor1652]

What you have to remember is, the car companies do not make the parts all they do is assembly them.
So in my humble opinion buy a known brand, GKN for example (for all we know they may make the"original") and save a few quid.

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

[guest5589]

I just went through replacing both rear wheel bearings on my 53 Jazz one after the other. There were alot of choice on eBay so I went with the seller who had good ratings and he did answer my questions in a knowledgeable manner.

Paid less than £50, got it swapped.. 6 months later it was still going strong so got the other side changed as well. This bearing was over-tightened by the installers and that destroyed it within 1 day (200miles) so had to replace that but the new correctly installed one is going strong (3 months wrong).

[olduser1]

Been fitting Blueprint OE bearings for years , so shop around for the correct spec deal
Blueprint catalogue here>http://www.blueprint-adl.com/blueprintlive/
reg free they spec correct vehicle.

[guest5589]

agree with above. make sure you buy the correct bearing.. there are three types out there:

Rear drum - No ABS
Rear drum - with ABS
Rear Disc - with ABS

[guest1372]

Fitted a Honda part one side and a £40 part on the other. Many years & miles later I can't tell the difference, both still work fine.
--
TG

[guest6115]

Thank you everybody.

I've ordered blue-print parts. That was a good recommendation, out of the myriad of possibilities their site was clear and easy to locate the right parts (I hope).

Now just to buy a 30mm socket and I'm ready to fit them!

David

[culzean]

Thank you everybody.

I've ordered blue-print parts. That was a good recommendation, out of the myriad of possibilities their site was clear and easy to locate the right parts (I hope).

Now just to buy a 30mm socket and I'm ready to fit them!

David

you will need a 600mm or so long wrecker bar to go with 30mm FULL HEXAGON socket (the double hex sockets may round off the corners of the nut) as bearings are tightened to 165NM ---- actually it is pretty much impossible to overtighten as there is a spacer between bearings and you tighten down onto that.  Leave the tyre firmly on the ground while you slacken off and tighten - all nuts are normal RH thead, so no tricky LH threads to worry about.

[guest1372]

you will need a 600mm or so long wrecker bar to go
Leave the tyre firmly on the ground while you slacken off and tighten

I'd second that, although I used a torque wrench I bought specially (£16), failing that don't use a ratchet as it could break, but rather use the tommy bar with a pipe extension if standing on it won't shift it.

Tyre on the ground helps transfer your effort - if it's hanging free on the suspension then all you do is move it about.
--
TG

[guest5589]

I actually had to change a bearing after 200 miles because the garage DID manage to overtighten it causing it to overheat. The seller and the second garage did confirm that was the case

[Jeffyjazz]

I over tightened mine thought I would skip the torque wrench

100miles later with a red hot wheel and a grumbly bearing - wish I used the torque wrench

[culzean]

I have replaced rear bearings at various times on two MK1 Jazzes with both Honda and Blueprint bearings and never used a torque wrench,  what I noticed was there is a spacer between inner bearing races that acts as a fixed stop when tightening up - this sets the 'pre-load' on the bearings and should prevent over-tightening as neither the spacer or the two inner bearing races can be compressed.  Can't speak for other than the two makes of bearing stated above as if the centre spacer is wrong length the bearings would be too tight even at 165NM on a torque wrench.

[guest1372]

I agree with Culzean, my Honda original replacement bearing could not be over tightened due to design.

But my unnamed £40 part on the other side had a loose outer bearing which may have been torque sensitive. The torque wrench was cheap so £40 + £16 still beats £150.
--
TG

[guest869]

1st rear wheel bearing went at 60k miles and replaced with Honda item.

It went again at 120K miles.

Now I have a cheap pattern part.