Author Topic: Handbrake issue  (Read 6136 times)

guest5666

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Handbrake issue
« on: November 30, 2015, 05:11:33 PM »
ok, so just before I purchsed my jazz I had an independent garage check it out. He said one of the rear brake pads needed attention. I mentioned this to the dealer and he had it replaced (Ive seen the garage receipt for that work).

Immediately post purchase I drove the car to Kwik Fit to get the rear tyre replaced as it was well worn. As the car was on the ramp I asked them to check the tracking. They did this, but then said that the front brake pads were VERY thin, and needed changing. Cost, around £200.00.

I declined this and went back to the dealer and told him about the issue, he wouldnt wear it and asked me why the independant garage who spotted the rear brake issue, did not mention it before? I then went to the independent garage guy and he convinced me that the brakes were fine and that Kwik Fit were just trying to upsell. I  left it at that.

Since then, I've noticed that the rear handbrake is very weak. Parking on a hill can lead to the car rolling if the brake is not pulled extremely tight.

The other day, I parked in a layby, which had a very small doward gradient. I looked up from my book and realised that I was rolling forward! I pulled the brake up as hard as poss, but it was a concern.

So, the question is, does the handbrake utilise the front brakes or the rear? If the front, then it seems that Kwick fit may have been telling the truth, and if the rear, then it seems that the work was not done correctly by the dealers garage?

trebor1652

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Re: Handbrake issue
« Reply #1 on: November 30, 2015, 05:23:29 PM »
£200 for brake pads renewal !!!!!!!!!!!!! £30 for the pads and half an hours work, I would not trust or go there again. Pads do need to bed in and the hand brake works on the rear so the hand brake should improve.

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monkeydave

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Re: Handbrake issue
« Reply #2 on: November 30, 2015, 08:12:48 PM »
kwik fit are the worst  the pads are £115 from the main dealer

i would not let kwik fit anywhere near my car   EVER!!!!

monkeydave

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Re: Handbrake issue
« Reply #3 on: November 30, 2015, 08:13:11 PM »
kwik fit are the worst  the pads are £115 from the main dealer fitted

i would not let kwik fit anywhere near my car   EVER!!!!

Pine

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Re: Handbrake issue
« Reply #4 on: December 01, 2015, 01:18:03 PM »
The handbrake operates the rear brakes only. I agree that its performance is sub standard, it is because the Jazz has disc brakes all round, drum brakes are much better for handbrake efficiency.  Many years ago I had a Vauxhall with disc brakes on all wheels but the rear discs had a small auxiliary drum that was for the handbrake only and that worked very well.

Hobo

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Re: Handbrake issue
« Reply #5 on: December 01, 2015, 02:29:57 PM »
Immediately post purchase I drove the car to Kwik Fit ......... but then said that the front brake pads were VERY thin, and needed changing. Cost, around £200.00. 

That sound about right for Crap-Fit, they are notorious for telling people they need work doing when there is nothing wrong, I am always amazed that people go there and then believe what they tell them.

They told my daughter that she needed new front discs and pads on a Mazda at a cost of £250 after she had braked hard on a steep downhill and the anti locking had cut in and caused a vibration, needless to say she declined their kind offer and still had the same discs and pads after another two years services and MOT's, I would never ever take a car that that bunch of con men.

guest5505

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Re: Handbrake issue
« Reply #6 on: December 01, 2015, 07:12:54 PM »
It may be that the handbrake just needs adjusting, I don't think it necessarily follows that the work on the rear brakes was sub standard.

My handbrake is poor just like yours. It still passed its mot and I make sure I leave it in gear when I park up so it won't roll anywhere

guest5079

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Re: Handbrake issue
« Reply #7 on: December 02, 2015, 11:08:57 AM »
When we bought our 2010 Jazz, the sales person had a dig over the handbrake. Plod driving course, never put the handbrake on without depressing the button. Release the button at the top of the handbrake levers travel. He told us to NOT depress the button when pulling the lever up. This was because the handbrake on the Jazz was weak. I have compromised, I depress the button and release it at the top of the levers travel and then pull up a notch or two. Fingers crossed no problems. I do leave in reverse as a safe guard  BUT as Alpine so rightly says it may be the hand brake needs adjusting.
Rover were essentially Hondas and looking at the schematics of the Honda rear disc caliper, it appears to be very similar to the Rover rear disc caliper.  I used to do my own servicing and know that if at anytime anything on the rear discs was changed it was prudent to check the adjustment. On MOT's my local garage used to pull my leg over the high readings for the handbrake, so it obviously paid off. The adjustment of cable / caliper  mechanism is critical. As is the sequence of doing the adjustment. I say this as I inadvertantly wound the piston too far back, one time when changing pads.
What it boils down to is to go to someone who can be trusted and get them to do it. It's not rocket science for a competent MECHANIC but a fitter!!!! Some fitters are excellent.  A lot of places just slap a new set of pads in, it is NOT as simple as that.

culzean

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Re: Handbrake issue
« Reply #8 on: December 02, 2015, 03:11:43 PM »
I think holding the button in while pulling handbrake on harks back to when ratchet mechanism was made out of recycled baked bean tins,  and not built to same quality as todays cars, which have proper hardened teeth.   In any case you should always let the handbrake button go for the last few clicks because there is a danger that the ratchet pawl (locking tooth) can come to rest on TOP of one of the teeth and not in the bottom of the gap between teeth where it is secure,  if it does stay on top of a tooth and slips off,  the handbrake will slacken off and car could roll away (always leave car in first gear (or 'park' on an auto box which physically locks transmission) when you leave it.

I always press foot brake while putting handbrake on anyway,  just gives it that bit more 'bite'.
Some people will only consider you an expert if they agree with your point of view or advice,  when you give them advice they don't like they consider you an idiot

VicW

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Re: Handbrake issue
« Reply #9 on: December 02, 2015, 04:16:49 PM »
   In any case you should always let the handbrake button go for the last few clicks because there is a danger that the ratchet pawl (locking tooth) can come to rest on TOP of one of the teeth and not in the bottom of the gap between teeth where it is secure,  if it does stay on top of a tooth and slips off,  the handbrake will slacken off

Being 'old school' I always held the button in on the handbrake but not anymore, at least not for the last couple of clicks.
Twice recently I have had the above happen fortunately while still in the car. There was a loud bang and on the second occasion I saw the handbrake lever move slightly.

Vic.

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