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Car Care & Detailing / Re: Good quality polish
« Last post by peteo48 on February 25, 2018, 10:39:07 PM »
Car Care & Detailing / Re: Good quality polish
« Last post by peteo48 on February 25, 2018, 10:25:23 PM »
Yes - I've seen some people go from clay straight to wax. Guess I've always been a bit nervous of it thinking I'll end up picking up crud in the clay and scratching the paint with it.

Interesting post Jocko - didn't know who had invented it (not the clay so much as its use for cleaning).
Honda Jazz Mk2 2008-2015 / Re: Cold Start
« Last post by John Ratsey on February 25, 2018, 09:07:12 PM »
Turn on the headlights and see how much they dim when you run the starter motor.  Some dimming is to be expected but a lot indicates a battery past its best (but check that the connections to the battery are tight before comdemning it). Also pause a few seconds between turning on the ignition and running the starter so the fuel pump has time to build up pressure.
Honda Jazz Mk2 2008-2015 / Re: Cold Start
« Last post by culzean on February 25, 2018, 08:59:11 PM »
My 2010 Jazz had trouble starting this morning. This is its first winter with me as owner. The battery was fine but it was spluttering and took 6 or 7 goes to start. It spluttered a bit more and then settled down OK. No problem starting later in the day. Any advice. It's the auto model.

Do you know if it is original battery ?  The battery loses  capacity so slowly that it goes unnoticed,  but posters on here have cured seemingly unrelated problems like electric power steering playing up by investing in a new battery.  If battery is original on a 2010 car it is due for replacement.  A battery on the way out may still turn over OK,  but a bit slower than it should and while sending power to starter motor ( over 200 amps) the terminal voltage drops too low to give a decent spark and keep fuel pump going as well.
Car Care & Detailing / Re: Good quality polish
« Last post by jazzway on February 25, 2018, 08:56:35 PM »
Clay removes dirt washing does not. It is the step before a cleaner polish because with polish you dont want little particles cause scratches. A cleaner polish removes the finest, tiniest of dirt and/oxidation.

It is an extra step, but if you want the cleanest paint before waxing you have to clay.

1- wash
1.a - iron- and tar remover (optional)
2- clay (with much clay lube)
3- (cleaner) polish
4- wax

If you want to do one step less, wash and clay, skip the polish and then wax.
Car Care & Detailing / Re: Good quality polish
« Last post by Jocko on February 25, 2018, 08:51:27 PM »
Found this. Quite interesting.
The original inventor of the polymer detailing clay is Mister Tadao Kodate, a japanese scientist who was looking for a safe way to remove contaminants from bodywork without using harsh chemicals or polishing compounds. The original clay bar was introduced in America in the early 1990s by Auto Wax Company. When Dennis Dehn a Auto Wax Consultant was hired by Auto Wax Company to demonstrate the AWC products in Japan. When showing the products in a detailing competition he used a compound to get the paintwork smooth and clean. When he look beside him, he saw the other competitor using some type of putty with a spray liquid, rubbing the paint.
The first company to patent the detailing clay was Auto Wax Company (later called: Auto Magic), who held the patent for detailing clay until 2014. 9 out of 10 clay bars sold were manufactured by Auto Magic under the brand name Clay Magic.

Clay bars are supposedly gentler on the modern paint and lacquer finishes. The old cellulose paint was much harder and could take chemical cleaning.
Car Care & Detailing / Re: Good quality polish
« Last post by culzean on February 25, 2018, 08:49:37 PM »
AutoGlym super resin polish seems to work well (although I only clean my cars once a year or less, and as peteo48 says if you use a clean cloth you can see it taking dirt and oxidation off paint) - it works really well on UPVC window frames though to remove discolouration caused by spider poo and general sun and weather,   which is where most of it gets used at our house (oh and fairly regularly on clear plastic headlight covers to keep the dreaded discolouring of plastic at bay).
Car Care & Detailing / Re: Good quality polish
« Last post by Jocko on February 25, 2018, 08:38:38 PM »
I use clay and wax. Still just two processes.
Car Care & Detailing / Re: Good quality polish
« Last post by peteo48 on February 25, 2018, 08:33:50 PM »
One thing I've often wondered is the difference, in the effect it has on the car's paint, between clay bars and, say, an all in one product like AG Super Resin Polish. The reason I say that is going right back to the days when I used Turtle Wax original - a product that contained cleaners and a protective element. Using a white cloth you would see clear evidence of dirt being removed on the applicator. Clearly the cleaners were removing contaminants.

Detailing clay is a relatively new concept. Going way back, my Dad used to use simonize polish and simonize wax. The polish did the cleaning bit, the wax the protection.

I think what I'm asking is this - do you really need to clay your car or isn't this just adding another step in the process? Not having a go at clay but we managed without it before and cars could still be got to a high state of shine.

Interested in arguments pro and con.
Honda Jazz Mk1 2002-2008 / Re: Towbar electrics
« Last post by Eddie Honda on February 25, 2018, 08:27:06 PM »
I got a plug-in electrical kit for RHD by Right Connections. The instructions were rubbish and hadn't been visually translated (mirrored) to apply to RHD cars although the loom was correct.

I haven't done the full write-up yet on installation, primarily because I haven't quite finished it yet. :-[ It's 99% complete, but I need to make connections to the fuseboard permanent.

Anyway, the RC kit shows the loom running from the battery through a pair of 10A fuses down the passenger/nearside/left of the car to the rear and across the back. I worked on a mirror image and ran it down the driver's/offside/right beside the car's own loom and stopped at the fuseboard below the right-hand end of the dashboard.

Whilst I had the trim out on the right-hand side of the boot, I fitted a Honda 12V socket to the little cubby hole in that panel. I had to fit it to the rear so the wiring would clear. The idea was/is to the run a cool box via an ignition live.

I fitted a (Polish made) towbar by Autohak, model Y27A with detachable swan neck,

DSCF8746 by macplaxton, on Flickr

but if I remove the neck, the 12N socket sticks out too far when the bracket is attached to the rearmost bolts. In order to fit the electrics bracket to the forward most bolts, a spacer/washers/longer bolt would be needed.

DSCF8779 by macplaxton, on Flickr

DSCF8766 by macplaxton, on Flickr

Right connections kit 19070506RC:

IMG_20151217_161520_972 by macplaxton, on Flickr

The electrics kit suggest drilling a hole in the spare wheel well, or at least enlarging an existing 20mm. (above and to the right of the jack in this pic:

IMG_20151227_085335_692 by macplaxton, on Flickr

I chose not not drill anything and use the existing 30mm body hole below the nearside rear lamp.

DSCF8745 by macplaxton, on Flickr

Also the two boot side plastic trim panels needed a large hole boring in them (nearest the rear luggage hooks) to clear the boltheads either side (another thing not in the instructions):

DSCF8785 by macplaxton, on Flickr

DSCF8782 by macplaxton, on Flickr

Wasn't happy the way the large washers sat against the ridges in the pressing of the rear valance, so trimmed them:

IMG_20151227_103540_976 by macplaxton, on Flickr

IMG_20151227_105258_524 by macplaxton, on Flickr

The bumper cutout needs to be only 60mm deep, rather than 80mm in the instructions:

DSCF8770 by macplaxton, on Flickr

The big reg cable (size chosen to avoid too much voltage drop) is for the 12V socket, the trailer loom has twin red feeds. I forget which is which.

DSCF8695 by macplaxton, on Flickr

Midway behind that inner sill plastic cover (driver's side rear door) is the main earth point for the rear of the car, I ran my 12V power socket electrics earth back to here:

DSCF8694 by macplaxton, on Flickr

Earth I used for the trailer electrics, nearside inner panel just ahead of the nearside rear light cluster. Top is some relay I can't remember what for (cutting the foglight when electrics attached?) and bottom is the AFC unit for the indicators. It quite happily powers all of my incandescent bulbs without dimming or disco light effects.

DSCF8784 by macplaxton, on Flickr

Here's some other clues as to the wiring:

Honda Jazz GD Offside rear light wiring by macplaxton, on Flickr

Honda Jazz GD Nearside rear light wiriing by macplaxton, on Flickr

DSCF8256a by macplaxton, on Flickr

DSCF8257a by macplaxton, on Flickr

DSCF8259a by macplaxton, on Flickr

DSCF8261a by macplaxton, on Flickr

DSCF8263a by macplaxton, on Flickr

And finally, the "in a hurry because in 4 hours I've got to get the ferry which is 2 hours away" bodge. Don't copy this and finish the job properly...

DSCF8795 by macplaxton, on Flickr

a) the two 2A fuses (fuses 20 & 21) are just there to hold the wires into the live side of the fuse holder.
b) the two wires have an in-line fuse of 10A each.
c) the idea is to work out which of those green/grey plugs has spare holes that actually connect to the fuses holders for 20 & 21 and then properly crimp the terminals onto the relevant connectors and insert them into the appropriate multiplug.
d) The wiring instructs show the two wires connected onto the battery live, so always live. IIRC, 21/22 are always live and not ignition-switched live.
e) the fuseboard shown is used in the facelift 2005 UK (KE) model, the fuseboard is different on the 2002-04. Both my Jazzes are 1.4SE CVT models (one with sunroof and one without).

As I've said, I'll do a proper write-up one day, but this is just point out some of the pitfalls to avoid with the quite frankly sketchy instructions for both towbar and electrics kit.
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