oil

[dave456]

hi members i have a honda jazz 1.4se 2008.i just want to known if mobil super 3000 fe 5w30 a5/b5 api /sl(hths) is ok for this model. halfords are selling at £23.99 for 5lites. it is a good oil.

[monkeydave]

yeah 5 30 fully synth is perfect

[culzean]

Here are some posts about oils (there is a lot more about oils on other posts on this forum if you search)

http://clubjazz.org/forum/index.php?topic=6620.msg28620#msg28620


Link below is a good guide to what all those confusing numbers, letters and standards printed on oil containers are all about.

http://www.driverstechnology.co.uk/oils.htm


I've used that same Mobil oil in my Jazzes and Civic, also used Castrol Magnatec fully synth Ford A1 spec.  One or the other of them is normally on special at Halfords at around £25 - why pay more as both are very good oils.
IMHO better to buy a brand name oil for around £25 and spend some of the money saved on Molyslip - especially if you do short runs and lots of cold starts (I only normally use half the bottle of Moly at each oil change because Moly is designed to stick to metal and doesn't all drain out with old oil).

[guest4283]

Also this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Comma-XTC5L-XTech-Fully-Synthetic/dp/B002RPMQIK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1381419168&sr=1-1&keywords=Xtech+5W-30

Moly is designed to stick to metal and doesn't all drain out with old oil).

Interesting, I wonder how Moly reacts with the 'products of combustion'. The oil holds it in suspension hence frequent oil changes = cleaner oil.

[dave456]

I Don't like the sound of the molyslip in engine. I went on web type in molyslip it gave prices and where to get  it also on that page, was a lot of people saying don't use it. modern engines don't it. ther was one guy used it the oil filter was block with grey sludge. it did not run very well with molyslip in. had to flush engine twice then put new oil and filter in then the engine was ok again. 

[VicW]

In my opinion there is no need to use engine additives in modern engines if you use good quality oil and change it and the filter at least every 12 months/12K miles.
Modern, good quality oils, stick to the metal bearing surfaces, unless left for a very long time and hence the engine is protected at the next start-up.
They also hold impurities in suspension so that the filter can remove them, hence some people finding that their filter is clogged up after using certain additives.
At 12K miles a year I service my car annually but change the oil and filter at the six month point but it is easy for me to do so because I can use my son's business workshop facilities and get the oil and filter at trade prices.

Vic.

[culzean]

I used to live next door to a lubrication engineer who worked for a high tech company specialising in harsh environments.  He described MoS2 particles as 'the size of the ones in cigarette smoke' and they pass through filters like a mini going through Dartmouth tunnel. The difference is that normal combustion products (mostly acids) will stay in the oil and be neutralised by additives in the oil, Moly is designed to stick to metals, not the filter medium.

It is an extreme pressure boundary lubricant  -  the disulphide bit is attracted to metal and the molybdenum bit faces outwards and the plates slide over each other with extremely low friction, and when the oil has drained out of bearings they stay behind and are there during those first crucial seconds when the engine starts and there is no oil there to form a barrier between sliding metal faces.

I have done very high mileages in cars and have always used Moly, never adjusted tappets and never a spanner on engine or transmission.

I agree some oil additives are like snake oil, Moly is a well proven and widely used lubricant in industry when nothing else will stand the pace.

[degzi]

all modern synthetic semi synthetic oils are good.

The moly slip debate is interesting. I have never used it, but very tempted to. As culzean says engine wear is the worst on startup. That's why your engine sound noisier when cold, parts are literally banging together.

I think the most important thing is to change oil regularly. Mine gets done before winter and after winter. Say October and March. I buy oil in bulk when it's on offer at halfords.

[lexi]

   Molyslip debates have been done to death decades ago. We used to have them in Hot Car mag..........way back!
       
  Moly in older oils ........maybe.  Molybdenum is used now mostly as an anti-scuff paste.  I have Rocol  stuff here for spigot bearings etc.......expensive. In CV joint grease the Moly content is much lower ie, cheaper.
 
 EP oils are for gear crunching. I think the modern Ether based oils do it all. We used to dump that thick Wyns into our Crossflows........but oil was only half as good as it is now.

[olduser1]

As well as using correct oil, always change the Honda Oil Filter when draining your oil every 7-10k.

[culzean]

   Molyslip debates have been done to death decades ago. We used to have them in Hot Car mag..........way back!
 

Now here is a thing,  Honda pistons in all their cars  have Molybdenum Disulphide coating on the skirt to reduce friction (fuel saving and cooler running (friction=heat)) and decrease the wear of the piston.  They started doing it in their performance cars (Type R and S2000) and it was successful so they started doing it in all their engines. There is actually something better than MoS2 called Tungsten Disulphide (WS2) which was always too expensive compared to cheaper Moly,  now Molybdenum price has gone up and Tungsten price come down so they are comparable now,  but don't know if any comparable product like Molyslip with Tungsten (Tungslip) available in UK yet.  The fact that Moly sticks to bearing surfaces also tends to hold a film of oil there as well - so doubly beneficial.

Molyslip should not not confused with anti-scuff paste (which is used on freshly assembled moving metal parts to stop their surfaces scuffing or galling / siezing together until they get polished and oiled in the normal way), nor has it anything to do with engine oil being better these days, which it undoubtedly is.  MsO2 and WS2 are simply the toughest and slipperiest, most hard wearing and temperature resistant substances known, and in the case of aircraft engines can enable the engine to keep running when all oil is lost from it.  Adding these substances to plastics can make materials like Nylatron (trade mark), and moly impregnated PTFE  that are very tough, hard wearing and self lubricating and can outperform metals in a lot of applications.

http://www.engineersedge.com/lubrication/molybdenum_disulfide_characteristics.htm

[lexi]

   In some cases the anti scuff pasted is buffed off to a shine but it is stuck to the metal. That paste is about 90% moly. That is why it is so expensive.
       
   Thing is:  Years ago engines needed more time to "bed in".  Then came the period of bedding in with a mineral oil and then going on to a good semi synthetic.  Now we are into full synthetic from new.  All down to better tolerance and improved metallurgy .   I think Honda were the first mainstream engine builders to use steel piston rings.
  All this "running in" was in the days of ductile iron rings and lower grade oil. Now, where's me starting handle 
   

[olduser1]

I rigged up a starting handle for my 1956 Beetle whilst  the starter motor had been removed , worked a treat.

[madasafish]

My first car - a 1929 Riley 9 Monaco with fabric roof. had a starting handle- the battery was knackered and I could not afford a new one so started from cold on the handle.  It also had magneto ignition . When hot the insulation on the  magneto windings tended to fail and the car stop.

They don't build them like they used to - thank goodness.