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21
Honda Jazz Mk1 2002-2008 / Tailgate lock locked
« Last post by how2 on May 21, 2017, 10:11:43 PM »
Hi all

Had a bad day today, first my tyre busts at the side wall and now I cannot lock the rear of the car.

Had problems unlocking the tailgate, opened it today but i move the latch into the locked position twice, therefore cannot shut the tailgate.

How do I unlock the latch?

I can lock all the doors deadlock.
22
Honda Jazz Mk1 2002-2008 / Re: Constantly deflating tyre / wheel
« Last post by Pine on May 21, 2017, 08:02:08 PM »
With slow deflation of any tyre it is worth checking that the centre of the valve (the little pin that you can see when the valve cap is removed) is fully screwed in. You can get a tool in Halfords to do this. Whenever I change my tyres I always check this and can usually tighten them at least a 1/4 of a turn.
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Honda Jazz Mk1 2002-2008 / Re: A bit of a disaster
« Last post by culzean on May 21, 2017, 07:45:38 PM »
I think speed bumps and potholes have a lot to answer for when it comes to exhausts failing, the shock loading (and possibility of top of speedbump actually hitting the exhaust) can't be doing anything on the car any good - but exhausts are especially vulnerable.
24
Honda Jazz Mk2 2008-2015 / Re: Replacing plugs on 2010 Jazz
« Last post by culzean on May 21, 2017, 05:14:56 PM »
For a normal life 'copper' spark plug (presumably without the special long life tri-valent thread plating) maybe anti-seize is still a good idea to stop plating bonding with aluminium of cylinder head.  Maybe NGK think that with their plugs anti-seize not needed and may interfere with heat transfer from plug to head.  I will not use anti-seize on iridium plugs because there was no sign of it on civic plugs I just changed and they came out no drama.

Having looked at Honda Fit (USA) forum,  they are replacing their plugs at around 150,000 miles - wonder what the difference in plugs is (they get the 1.5VTEC engine,  maybe it is easier on plugs).  I know you can get Denso and NGK 'tough' plugs that can go over 100K, but 150K is mind boggling.

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-generation-ge8-specific-diy-repair-maintenance-sub-forum/73214-diy-get-access-spark-plug-2009-sport.html

read this bit as well,  shows you how to get access.....
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-generation-ge8-specific-diy-repair-maintenance-sub-forum/33846-diy-lower-your-ge8-fit.html
25
Honda Jazz Mk2 2008-2015 / Re: Replacing plugs on 2010 Jazz
« Last post by auntyneddy on May 21, 2017, 02:41:59 PM »
I assumed that as the on line manual makes reference, including part nos, to Honda tools that the manual is a download of the Honda workshop manual. At the bottom of the page on plug replacement, it states 'Apply small amount of anti-seize compound to the plug threads---------'
As I could not get my torque wrench into the space I followed the instructions on the plug boxes. Using a 3/8 socket ratchet I would suggest that unless one uses brute force the plug box instructions would enable the installer to get the torque approximately correct.
Here we have a case of two expert opinions, one from the plug manufacturer and one presumably from the car manufacturer.
As always it would be nice if perhaps they got together.
26
Honda Jazz Mk2 2008-2015 / Re: Replacing plugs on 2010 Jazz
« Last post by culzean on May 21, 2017, 11:35:46 AM »
The electrical conductivity of the copper is not really an issue on spark plugs (a lot of spark plugs, including the Jazz have an electrical resistor built into plug body to cut down electrical interference to other car components, this used to be built into plug cap or lead on older systems) - the spark is high voltage but low current - however the good thermal conductivity of copper will help to keep tip cool in extreme (race car) conditions.  I'm guessing race engine get their plugs changed every race, so life not a problem but because of the 'extreme' combustion conditions on race cars - and Iridium plugs in motorbikes have to be replaced more frequently than in a car engine for same reason) they rely on the copper to help cool the plugs,  this is not necessary in a low tune car engine, so the fact that race engines use 'copper' is pretty irrelevant for road car combustion conditions.

The benefits of Iridium far outweigh the downside for most road car uses,  the finer electrode diameters channels the spark better (the swirl in the combustion chamber can try to blow spark out, so it needs all the help it can get) - the finer electrodes also reduce the strain on the ignition coil (many GD Jazz rear coils have failed, most likely due to plugs never being changed, the gap opens up - more voltage required to jump gap - extra strain on coil insulation = failed coil).  The way the coil works is that energy is stored in a magnetic material by the primary coil (high current - low voltage), when the primary current flow is interrupted (used to be by mechanical 'points' but now is a solid state transistor or such) the magnetic field collapses - energy cannot return via primary coil so it develops a high voltage in secondary coil (low current - high voltage = the bit the plug is connected to) this voltage will keep rising until it finds an escape path (the plug gap) - if the gap is too large the voltage will spark over somewhere else in the circuit (the insulation in the coil) causing damage.

Iridium plugs keep their design gap for much longer due to the fact they resist the eroding effect of the electrical spark and combustion heat much better - this means that the ignition coil has less work to do throughout the much longer plug life - due to the fact that coils cost a lot more than plugs and a failed coil can leave you stranded my vote is for Iridium every time.  If I used copper plugs in my motorbike I would be replacing them about every 5,000 miles,  the Iridium last 15,000 - it's a no brainer.

here is quote from NGK website.

5.“Copper plugs”

“Copper spark plugs” is a term mistakenly used for a standard material spark plug. A standard material spark plug traditionally uses a nickel-alloy outer material fused to a copper core. Almost all spark plugs use a copper core center to conduct the electricity, jump the gap, and promote heat dissipation. However, as an outer electrode material, copper would not be a good choice, as it is soft and has a low melting point (resulting in a plug that would last minutes, not miles). Nearly all NGK spark plugs, including precious metals iridium and platinum, have a copper core. When one talks in terms of nickel alloys, platinum and iridium, one is referring to its durability, or how long a spark plug will last before it needs to be replaced. However, when one talks about copper, he or she is referring to its ability to conduct electricity that is needed to fire across the gap and ignite the air-fuel mixture


https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/spark-plug-101/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs

from same site....(plenty more videos on the site)

https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/videos/video-when-should-i-use-a-resistor-spark-plug


Interestingly NGK says that because of the special tri-valent plating on threads use of anti-sieze is not recommended and plugs should be installed with a dry thread, also anti-sieze acts as a lubricant and can result in over tightening of plugs.
27
Honda Jazz Mk3 2015 - / Re: New mark 3 Jazz EX CVT
« Last post by Downsizer on May 21, 2017, 11:32:16 AM »
Since changing from a Mk 2 manual to a Mk 3 cvt, I have found driving to be much more relaxed, due partly to the lack of urban gear-changing but also to the substantially reduced engine revs at 70 mph.
28
Honda Jazz Mk1 2002-2008 / Re: A bit of a disaster
« Last post by Jocko on May 21, 2017, 10:48:25 AM »
Stopped raining today so I popped down to my garage to check out damage to exhaust. I was very lucky. The entire system had detached ahead of the middle box and was hanging loose held only by the rear hangers. Just as well they are in good order and kept the remains of the system clear of the road. I'll just leave the car where it is until my son-in-law can replace the mid section.
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Honda Jazz Mk3 2015 - / New mark 3 Jazz EX CVT
« Last post by Lol23 on May 21, 2017, 10:21:13 AM »
I have just taken delivery of my new Jazz EX in Milano Red. My previous Jazz (2009) EX iShift ) gave excellent service my only expense in the 8 years apart from servicing and one set of tyres was a set of wipers back and front . I am looking forward to the same service again. He CVT is a lot smoother and will improve as it gets run in, milage is good best MPG so far 59 at a steady 50+. I am still trying to sort out the various gizmos. Like the iShift before I think you have to learn how to drive it to get the best experience.
Lol2339
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Honda Jazz Mk1 2002-2008 / Re: A bit of a disaster
« Last post by MikeG1944 on May 21, 2017, 07:50:36 AM »
LOL, It can only fall off once!
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